enigma-2

This is from my 2009/2010 service manual. It may help. Jacking and Lifting WARNING: When jacking or lifting the vehicle, block all wheels remaining on the ground. Set the parking brake if the rear wheels will remain on the ground. These actions help prevent unintended vehicle movement. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. WARNING: Never get underneath a vehicle that is supported only by a jack. The jack could unintentionally lower. Always support vehicle with floor stands. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. WARNING: Only raise the vehicle when positioned on a hard, level surface. Attempting to raise the vehicle on an uneven or soft surface may result in vehicle slipping or falling from the jack or jackstand. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. WARNING: Position the hoist lift arms as shown in the illustration. Incorrect positioning could result in vehicle slipping or falling from the hoist. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. NOTICE: The jack provided with the vehicle is intended to be used in an emergency for changing a deflated tire. To avoid damage to the vehicle, never use the jack to hoist the vehicle for any other purpose. NOTICE: Damage to the suspension, exhaust or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters prior to lifting the vehicle. NOTICE: Do not attempt to use jack pressure on either the front bumper or the rear bumper of any vehicle. Damage to bumper covers will occur. NOTICE: To prevent possible damage to the underbody, do not drive the vehicle onto the drive-on lift without first checking for possible interference. NOTICE: When raising a vehicle on a twin-post hoist, use care when positioning the vehicle so that the hoisting forks do not interfere with the suspension components, mounting brackets or stabilizer mounting brackets, if equipped. In addition, use care in hoist positioning to avoid possible damage to the axle carrier or rear cover. Jacking and Lifting Points — Front and Rear

Outstanding job. Very desirable outdoor area.

That's just the software. How much more for the hardware?

I've considered this as well. I have a 2009 MKX with 112k. At this time, I still have an Basic extended warranty and it will cover a bad water pump or new engine. But after it runs out in a couple of years, if I continue to keep the car, I'll probably have the water pump, guides and timing chain replaced around 150k. At 200k your on borrowed time IMO.

Nope again. The state DOT will tell you what you can and can't do to your car. So will the local cops. And don't forget the lawyers. (Ok, I'm just yanking your chain). Point is, you can do whatever you want to the software, unless you sell your mods, or make them public showing others how to do it, etc. But we don't have a "legal" right to do it. A more interesting question is, what if you modify the car, then sell it with these mods, and later owner has a problem (or a fire or an accident traced back to the mods). Are you legal for what you did? The answer is yes. From personal experience (unrelated). Quick version. Bought a hone years ago from the original owner. Sold it two years later as I found many of the owners bad wiring jobs and such. The family that bought it off me built a fire in the Ben Franklin stove and it caught the second story on fire. Turns out the previous owner did it himself and used single wall pipe. He ran it into the ceiling, turned horizontally for a few feet (actually it sloped downhill, providing a creosote trap). His insurance rebuilt the home and provided them housing while it was under construction. I sold it to him for $40k, insurance came after me for nearly $65k. During discovery, I told them that it was the previous owner that installed it. They then went after him and nailed him in court for full amount plus legal fees and court costs. (Just because he sold it and forgot about it, he was still libel because he did the work and never had it inspected. It ruined him).

Yea. That poor Rubermade cart must have been squished flatter than a pancake.

I remember reading in one of the forums where someone discovered that if the back of the seat was open, the airflow improved by x amount. Supposedly made a big difference. He was thinking that the airflow into the seat was the limiting factor. (Easy enough to verify and fix if that really is the cause).

Ahhhhh NOPE! Nope, nope, nope, no. You do NOT own the software. Nor are you allowed to modify it, reverse engineer it or anthing else that would give you access to the modify the code. It shiuld be spelled out in the owners manual. Page after page of "Thou Shan't Not's" .... In the Appendixes. It's their software, licensed to you, the legal owner, to use, not own. Just like any other software.

Personally I'm not familiar with this machine, but I found 3 reviews on the JD website. Overall they like the machine, couple of good suggestions (like mowing with lower air pressure in the tires, etc.) https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/residential-zero-turn-mowers/z355r-residential-ztrak-mower/

Isn't the "air induction" nothing more than a small air scoop moulded into the under cover that scoops up air and blows it onto the case of the PTU?

Here's a video on lubing seats from SweetProjectCars.

I like that I can switch from forward to reverse using foot controls. And ability to vary speed with foot pressure. Can't do that with gears.

IMO it has a lot to do with the 'type' of transmission. The older units had a manual gearbox, in some cases, a heavy duty gearbox and differential. The newer ones use a flimisy hydrostatic. The hydos make it easier to mow grass, but the gears transfered power better.

Whether or not the warranty would be denied is probably based of the experience of the dealer's service personnel. If they choose to service a part and Ford refuses to reimburse them, they eat the cost. Here's what Ford's warranty states about it: the installation or use of a non-Ford Motor Company part (other than a certified emissions part) or any part (Ford or non-Ford) designed for off-road use only installed after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company, if the installed part fails or causes a Ford part to fail. Examples include, but are not limited to lift kits, oversized tires, roll bars, cellular phones, alarm systems, automatic starting systems and performance-enhancing powertrain components or software and performance "chips". Like Snox801 wrote, are you willing to go to court and spend $$$$$ to fight whether your modification caused a failure?

Like omar302 said ⬆. I have the security cover, pain to install and use. Found I really don't need it as the side, rear windows are dark enough to prevent seeing what's back there. And I carry a blanket for the grand kids, easy enough to throw it over stuff when needed.

My guess is the grease deteriorated from exposure to heat and age. Wonder if the other side also worn? (Now you got me wondering about mine. Had the Service Manager do a full inspection on my 09 when I bought my latest extended warranty. He found one boot (slightly) leaking, not enough to replace. No problems so far, but I do have over 110k).

Black is ground, yellow is positive. The video is for an Explorer, but should be the same. Do use the wire tie to provide strain relief as wires are only pushed in.

Not a bad price, you planning to keep the car for 8 years? Also improves the resale value. Should have no problems getting a refund, part of the Ford contract.

Tirerack.com recommends the MICHELIN PREMIER LTX Crossover/SUV Touring All-Season. Size: 265/40R-22 $271.97 Per Tire (free shipping).

If it's not already installed, needs a GPS module (located above radio) and antenna (top of car at hack).

I'm going to continue to drive my MKX. After all, only a tiny percentage actually fail. "what, me worry"?

I read about the electric pump concept, but I can't buy into it. The replace the existing water pump, you still have to tear the engine down. So the cost is the same either way. Replacing the water pump with a OEM pump will assure another 100-150k miles. Fabricating a blank and replacing with an electric pump may actually cost more, and not last nearly as long, but has the advantage of not killing the engine when it fails. Perhaps a better use of money would be to design an early warning system to prevent catastrophic failure. Something related to using a stethoscope. Chain slap & worn bearings should be audible prior to total seal failure.

?? What for options? .

In %, how much?

Q: Can I cancel my Ford ESP? A: Yes. All Ford ESP contracts can be canceled for a full refund within 30 days (if you have not used any aspect of the plan). Beyond 60 days, you will receive a pro-rated refund from Ford Motor Company. To cancel a Ford ESP you must call the dealership where you purchased the contract. If the dealership is unable to help you please call Ford Motor Company at 1-800-367-3377. This website can only assist in cancelling contracts purchased via this website. http://www.troy-ford-extended-warranty.com/Ford-Extended-Warranty-Questions-s/2581.htm