enigma-2

This has been discussed here at great length. Is it worth it? No one can answer this. I have a gen 1 MKX and for me, yes. I like to keep my car nice as possible. On my last warranty, it more than paid for itself. And not just one repair, but over several. They replaced the PTU and what's that worth? Add $600 for this, $475 for that, etc. and yes, it was worth it for me. (Seems like everything costs hundreds. My first repair was for a broken vacuum hose. It turned out it was on the back of the engine and required a bunch of parts to be removed before they could get to it. Then there's the cost of the custom hose itself. Nothing's cheap anymore.) I currently have ano extended warranty covering all of the engine and power train. Bought it mainly as insurance agaist a water pump failure. If that happens, I break even. If it takes out the engine, I'm thousands ahead. I also get a loaner for all repairs where they keep it overnight & free car washes. Free roadside assistance (had used it when I had a flat while driving. Guy came and changed my tire in driving rain. Nice! What I did was to go online, Google ford extended warranty, got three estimates, printed them out and took to local dealer. Let him give his price and showed him what I could get from other ford dealers. He immediately matched. I looked at him and asked what else he could do. He offered $0-deductible if I had repair's done there. (Big smile). They will ask for $100 for a detailed inspection. If they find anything, you will need to have it repaired before they will cover. (Don't want to fix a pre-existing condition). Remember there are three levels of warranty. You don't have to take the mosr expensive.

I have an 09 mkx. Dealer changed my coolant to a different fluid as the original coolant was found to cause heating core and eater pump failures.

Mine gets washed every week. Lost a front wiper once, but no other damage. Don't believe anything a salesman tells you.

There is another factor at play here. All PTU's, irregardless of brand, will fail. It's inherent in its design. The factor is the service dealer. My local dealer checks all PTU's at every oil change. (That's how they found my PTU starting to leak around the seal. Gen 1.) Non-Ford mechanics, including handyman oil changes, probably never check the unit. Early detection is the key. It's a lot cheaper to change the seal than to replace the entire unit. The seal starts to leak, unit loses fluid and what's left overheats and fries into goo, resulting in failure. My local service manager told me that he recommended fluid change at 36k. But they don't push it with customers as it's not a Ford servicable unit. Just for those who ask for if. (Me and one other guy). Talked to him about using Amsoil and he said they only use Motorcraft designed for this application. He thought that it wasn't the fluid failing, rather the seal getting old and starting to leak. (Mine starting to leak around 92k.) They replaced it under extended warranty and should be good for another 80-90k or so.

Fuel pump, fuel filter, etc. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0087-obd-ii-trouble-code-fuel-rail-system-pressure-too-low-by-spencer-clayton

I had the dealer replace my fluid and he recommended a 36k interval for future changes. (During an oil change, he noted a slight leak at the seal. They told me they would change just the seal, think they quoted $475, but decided to change the whole unit when they discovered I had an extended warranty.) Gen 1, approx 92k.

That the door handle broke off in my hand ..... ?

I think we had one of those in room in Washington last week. Flush, done. First time I flushed it couldn't believe how fast it was. Great design, worth the money.

So the toilet clogged and I pulled out my old friend, Mr. Plunger. Let him do his thing as he had done for some many years now. And all at once, my old friend was attacked by the tird. Now, I know it sounds ridiculous, but take a look at the picture and what it did to Mr. Plunger. But wait it gets better. (How this ties into an Edge/MKX forum). So at this point, I'm besides myself. I just lost an old friend, so I did what any red-blooded American male would do, I piled into the 'ol MKX, and drove the Wally World to buy a new ine. At midnight. (Man, you can't believe the weirdo's loose in WalMart at midnight. It's like stepping into the twilight zone; on Hallaween. It started with a meth addict handing out carts at the door (at midnight???) and some fat teenie bopper walking all over the store whistling for his dog. (Think his dog probably ditched him.) Anyway back to the story. Got a new Mr. Plunger and headed out to the MKX to go home. Opened the cargo hatch and threw the new plunger in. Walked over to open the car door and next thing I know, I'm holding the handle in my hand. It completely broke off. Parts all over the ground, some dog barking in the distance, the moon went behind the clouds and I'm standing there unable to get in my car! Yes, I know! Hellofadeal! So I thought and finally figured out if I hold the door unlock button for a few seconds, the window will roll down and I can use the inside door handle. So now I have to take my sweetie over to ford in the morning and see how much a new door handle will set me back. A chrome, ... "Lincoln" ..... door handle.... uh huh.

What's wrong with contacting the government? They're only trying to help.

Brake booster. (Isn't there a recall or procedure on the 2011?) As you exposed the brake fluid to the outside air, and that it's several years old, I'd change the fluid.

Here ya go .... https://m.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Black-Fake-Turbo-Sound-Exhaust-Blow-off-Valve-Simulator-Whistler-M/291744702183?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337682932&toolId=10001&customId=jl1738jk3q015pku00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F291744702183&srcrot=711-53200-19255-0&rvr_id=1637558742718&rvr_ts=537b71c71650ab15c1d4c714fffbc193&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true This what you're looking for? (Stop drulling.) https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NcjBaOldsg4

According to the ownersame manual, yes. See page 238 in the owners manual for towing all 4-wheels on the ground.

The only difference between the two is that premium has more anti-knock. If you run regular and the engine knocks, up it to mid-grade or premium. Remember when it used to be called Ethyl? Remember when you used to pull in gas station and the pump attendant would ask you which gas you wanted, (regular or Ethyl), clean your windshield, check your oil (I was taught to use two fingers under the dipstick colar to push an extra quart of oil) refill the windshield washer resovior (with water of course) & check the air in your tires? Remember when we still used leaded gasoline? Raise your hand if you've ever used to phrase "get the lead out". Remember when most cars smoked a little, about one out of five were oil burners? Remember when you use to have the roll the window down and stick your arm out to signal a turn? Straight out for a left turn, right angle pointing up for a right turn? Remember when you used to "roll" the windows up and down? Remember triangular "vent" windows? Remember when windshield wipers ran on vacuum and would stop when going uphill or accelerating? Remember when radios were optional? Remember 9' long CB radio antennas that would whip back and forth when driving? Remember balloon tires? Remember 50/50 front shocks that would allow the front end to fly up in the air under hard acceleration. Remember when two-tone paint jobs were an upgrade? Remember when people would cover the upholstery with clear plastic seat covers to protect the cloth from dirt, oils and damage? Remember when dashboards were made from metal and had a magnetic plastic Jesus sitting on them? (Remember the song "I don't care if it rains or freezes as long as I got my plastic Jesus, sitt'in on the dashboard of my car"?) Remember fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view mirror? Remember pop music where all song frequencies were were attenuated so they would play on a car's AM radio without distortion? (Chopped off the base and highs). Everyone knows the corvette & T-bird. Remember the Studebaker Lark? Remember the Nash Rambler? (It was like riding inside a basketball being dribbled.) Remember the fins on a 59 caddy which mimicked the fins of a rocket; at the beginning of the "space age"? (Now THAT was a great car). Remember cars that had "automatic" transmission's with a clutch pedal? Remember baby dish moon hubcaps? Remember "Big Daddy Garlits? No? Neither do I.

Thought this video was relevant to the (older) discussion. https://youtu.be/UPWJp7azEvc Out of curiosity I looked up what station's locally had top-tier, and was surprised to learn that only two brands were. Google "top tier gas stations" to see a Google map of the stations in your area that sell top-tier. AAA came out a couple of years ago promoting top tier gas. https://newsroom.aaa.com/2016/07/aaa-not-gasoline-created-equal/

No surprise, just thought it was interesting.

The popping sound is probably the right strut mount bearing has seised. As you turn the spring goes through a twisting motion. The upper strut mount contains a bearing the allows the spring to rotate. When the strut bearing freezes up the spring begins to twist and with no bearing to relieve the torque built up, the end of the spring snaps back to its resting position. This creates the popping sound. In addition, you also feel the snap in your steering leading you to believe that something else is at play. When replacing the struts and mounts, I would recommed only Motorcraft. Don't go cheap and use Chinese parts unless your planning on dumping the car immediately afterwards. May consider replacing the rear shocks at the same time.

Is it your opinion that the moisture is getting in though these stickers? Or if through the "vents", why not just dry out the lights and seal the vents with clear silicon sealant?

You want rattles? Loan it to me for 10 minutes. I swear, if I bought a new Edge and had that scraddle, I'd rip the damn thing apart until I found it. I hate scraddles (squeek/rattles).

Simple. It only works when the cargo deck is raised or lowered. :cough:

Seems to depend of state law. Poured on the ground, it's sweet smell and taste attracts wildlife. If you can contact your local EPA; they should be able to advise if it's considered hazardous waste and where to dispose.I believe the stuff they spray on planes is the same as RV antifreeze. Nontoxic.

Call your dealer and see what they say. Coolant is usually regarded as a hazardous waste and needs disposal in a special place.

Drove me nuts. Buzzzzz, tweet, tweet, twee....buzzzz (repeat).

Not trying to argue the point, but none of the lights your looking for are DOT certified. Don't get rid of the original lights as these will reduce your trade-in value should you go through a licensed dealer. (You may consider putting in the oem lights when trading). That being said, you can find what your looking for on Ebay.

Ah, thanks. I misread your post.