enigma-2

This is what I used: WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray with SMART STRAW SPRAYS 2 WAYS, 10 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0ODGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T.ItBbAJHKTH7

OK, thanks for all the input. I decided on the following: (I've heard good things about Acer, both on this forum and others): Acer Aspire E-15 E5-576G-5762 with: 8th Generation Intel Core i5-8250U Processor 1.6GHz with Turbo Boost Technology up to 3.4GHz Windows 10 Home 15.6" Full HD (1920 x 1080) widescreen LED-backlit IPS display NVIDIA GeForce MX150 with 2 GB of dedicated GDDR5 VRAM 8GB Dual Channel Memory 256GB SSD 8X DVD Double-Layer Drive RW (M-DISC enabled) Secure Digital (SD) card reader Acer TrueHarmony Two Built-in Stereo Speakers 802.11ac WiFi featuring MU-MIMO technology (Dual-Band 2.4GHz and 5GHz) Bluetooth 4.1 Gigabit Ethernet HD Webcam (1280 x 720) supporting High Dynamic Range (HDR) 1 - USB 3.1 Type C Gen 1 port (up to 5 Gbps) 2 - USB 3.0 ports (one with power-off charging) 1 - USB 2.0 port 1 - HDMI Port with HDCP support 6-cell Li-Ion Battery (2800 mAh), Up to 15-hours Battery Life 5.27 lbs. All for $600 on Amazon. (Pretty much everything I was wanting. Like to have a better display, but I would have to ponied-up another $250 for this (+ better video card) and really don't need it). I also added an additional 8GB of Kingston RAM for a total of 16GB ($66), a Seagate 2TB FireCuda SSHD with 64MB cache delivering 6Gb/s ($92), a Acer wireless mouse and one year of Microsoft Office 365 Personal ($45/year - if you order with the computer). (Thanks for the recommends on construction, more memory and storage). Should be a decent little machine for the price. Still need a laptop bag for it, maybe I'll just dig one out of the basement.

That was the extended support that ran out in March. Read somewhere that there are still millions of XP installations (world-wide of course) still running. As long as they are not running Java, adobe, things like that where the real problems lie, they should be fairly safe.

Actually there was a "hidden" support program that ended in March. It was designed for "embedded" Windows XP installations, such as those embedded in ATM machines, traffic lights and millions of other hidden computers (not strictly for personal machines); things like that. I was getting Microsoft updates through March, sometimes 2-3 a month.

Don't feel bad, no one else thought of it either. (Ha) Had a similar problem, had to push the seat button every time I went to drive the car. Turned out the wifepo was changing the seat when she drove (we also don't lock in it end the garage). So it was squishing-up to the steering wheel after I put the key in.

WD40 dry lube is different than WD40. (I just sprayed the tracks as best I could.)

Rough guess is about 90k miles, right? That the PTU was empty struck me. I'll go out on a limb and say you have a seal leaking. Something to watch. Local dealer quoted around $450 US to change seal when they found lraking. But I had extended warranty and the poped in a new unit.

Thanks, I didn't know that. Really good information to know. I do use Excel, but 123 is so much faster to use (key strokes instead of mouse clicks), more powerful (user Witten macro language that is fast and simple to develop; don't need to learn a different computer language to write scripts). I have hundreds of worksheets dating back to the early 80's in 123. Almost none of these can be used in Excel due to the very powerful macros incorporated in them. One click and I can perform over 10,000 keystroke operations, formula rewrights (where formulas rewright themselves due to various inputs), create new rows and populate, move data around, etc. To do this in Excel, you need to learn their difficult syntax (some say it's easy, I dont), & how to use the compiler. I actually tried to teach myself. Takes way too much time and energy, so I stuck with 123; a program I completely understand and have mastered. (I also still use WordPerfect for many of the same reasons). ?

You made some really excellent points. I hadn't thought about things like hinge construction and separate buttons for mouse click (drag and drop). (And so many other items). Because of your post, I dropped several models I had been considering. Will concentrate on the better brands and construction now. My last laptop is going on 12 years and still running OK (abet Windows XP as well. It's a better quality Dell). Thank you so much.

I think that's a good idea. Please keep us informed as to what they find.

More money in circulation, more likely it will be disposable and get spent on a new car (or boat or rv, etc.). Just wait in four years Wil the tax cuts expire and the national debt mushrooms and more money needs to be printed to cover the vig.

I'm not really crazy of going up to the i7 because of the additional heat it generates when under load. (Fan get noisy as well). Really think i5 in the 8th generation will be sufficient. I looked at the type that splits into keyboard and tablet, but honestly I don't think I'd use that feature much.

There one model I was looking at, used 128gb SSD as the boot drive and 1 tb harddrive. Still not certain about using a 2.0 in a 3.0 connection. I tried a USB 2 drive in a USB 3 socket on the Windows 10 computer I have in my office and it refused to work. I'll have to do some more research on this.

Wife told me I'm too outdated (snort) and need to get upgraded before I retire. So I finally broke down and took a computer class on Windows 10. (Yuck). Microsoft finally discontinued support for Windows XP in March (Boo hiss) so I guess I'll get upgraded. (@$$!#/×÷%÷). So now I'm in the market for a new Win-10 laptop. Great Caesar's ghost. How things have changed over the years. (Have you looked lately? There are dozen's of categories of procesdors, storage, memory, displays, form factors, cpu's, etc. etc. And even in the same product lines, you can't figure out apples-to-apples. And no CD/DVD drives! How the hell do they expect me to load my copy of Lotus-123, anyway? So, anyway, I'm down to either Dell or Acer. Narrowed down to 8th gen i5 processor and a 128gb SSD. 8 gigs memory. Display with either NIVDA or Intel (not a gamer, no biggie). Couple of USB-3 ports and at least 1 USB-2 legacy for all my old jump drives. Like to get it in a 14" but would consider 15.6" if price right. Anyone have any other suggestions?

EBay. Little over a grand with shipping. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202344659305

I'd spring to take it to another dealer and tell them everything. Wally World doesn't put fluid in tranby unless you paid for the fluid and requested such. (They don't just have cans of the stuff laying around just to top off someone's tranny). Dealer is trying to avoid the job. May not have tranny certified tech on staff.

There are different mirror configuration's depending on what's installed. Try measuring the voltage between the black (ground) & gray w/blue stripe -or- solid yellow (depending on your setup). Power should be on with car in run, and after shutting off, stay on until door is opened.

Need to mention something about the local John Deere dealer to stay on topic.

Well, that's what you get when you move into a Manufacturered Home community. All kidding aside, we looked at buying a new home in Southern California back in the 60's. The tad was so small I could have cut the grass with a scissors. The home was so small had mirrors on all the walls attempting to make the home look larger. I so pity anyone who buy a home with tiny, little yards and the neighbors are so close you can hear them talking in their homes.

Yup. I get it wrong every time. (sigh). At least I'm consistant.

I used WD40 dry lube and sorated the hell out of everything I could see. Getting under the seat to spray the inside rail is a pain.

$84.14 on Amazon, plus $56 for arranged installation. Philips D3S Standard Authentic Xenon HID Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BRJ712/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_44NrBbC9GYEFX Wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to have both replaced (may cut installation costs)?

Seat Cushion — Front Removal NOTE: The air bag warning indicator illuminates when the correct Restraints Control Module (RCM) fuse is removed and the ignition switch is ON. NOTE: The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be fully operational and free of faults before releasing the vehicle to the customer. ° Remove the front seat. For additional information, refer to Seat — Front in this section. ° Release all wire harness and connector retainers to the cushion frame. ° For seat with fold-flat backrest, separate the fold-flat recliner cable holders from the bottom of the cushion frame. ° If equipped, disconnect the cushion Thermo-Electric Device (TED) electrical connector. ° If equipped, disconnect the heated seat module and 2 heater mat electrical connectors. ° Separate the pin-type retainers from the cushion frame. ° Remove the 4 cushion frame-to-seat track bolts and cushion assembly. Installation For seat with fold-flat backrest, make sure the fold-flat recliner cable is routed correctly between the power seat track cross tube and cushion frame. ----------------------- Position the cushion assembly and install the 4 cushion frame-to-seat track bolts. For power seat track, make sure the cushion frame-to-seat track rear brackets are aligned correctly with the tabs seated in the cushion frame. Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft). For correct front passenger seat cushion wire harness routing, refer to Seat Wire Harness Routing — Front Passenger Cushion in this section. For seat with fold-flat backrest, attach the 2 fold-flat recliner cable holders to the bottom of the cushion frame. Connect the heated seat module 2 heater mat electrical connectors. Route the wiring harnesses and attach the pin-type retainers to the cushion frame. If equipped, connect the cushion TED electrical connector. Attach any remaining wire harness and connector retainers to the cushion frame. ---------------- All seats ° Remove the front seat cushion. (above) For additional information, refer to Seat Cushion — Front in this section. ° Release the cushion trim cover retainers from the cushion frame and remove the cushion trim cover and cushion foam pad. NOTICE: Use care when separating the cushion trim cover from the hook-and-loop strips, or the hook-and-loop strips can be torn from the cushion foam pad. NOTE: A new heater mat will come assembled on a new foam pad. ° Remove the cushion trim cover from the cushion foam pad in the following sequence. ° Separate the hook-and-loop strips. ° Separate the cushion trim cover wire retainer from the clips in the cushion foam pad. ° For vehicles with climate controlled seat, on assembly make sure the climate control seat manifold is in place before snapping the cushion trim cover wire retainer back into the cushion foam pad. Install the front seat. For additional information, refer to Seat — Front in this section. ° Position the cushion assembly and install the 4 cushion frame-to-seat track bolts. ° For power seat track, make sure the cushion frame-to-seat track rear brackets are aligned correctly with the tabs seated in the cushion frame. ° Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft). ° For correct front passenger seat cushion wire harness routing, refer to Seat Wire Harness Routing — Front Passenger Cushion in this section. ° For seat with fold-flat backrest, attach the 2 fold-flat recliner cable holders to the bottom of the cushion frame. ° Connect the heated seat module 2 heater mat electrical connectors. ° Route the wiring harnesses and attach the pin-type retainers to the cushion frame. ° If equipped, connect the cushion TED electrical connector. ° Attach any remaining wire harness and connector retainers to the cushion frame. ° Install the front seat. For additional information, refer to Seat — Front in this section. ----------------------------------------------- ° Remove the front seat cushion. {above} For additional information, refer to Seat Cushion — Front in this section. ° Release the cushion trim cover retainers from the cushion frame and remove the cushion trim cover and cushion foam pad. ° NOTICE: Use care when separating the cushion trim cover from the hook-and-loop strips, or the hook-and-loop strips can be torn from the cushion foam pad. NOTE: A new heater mat will come assembled on a new foam pad. ° Remove the cushion trim cover from the cushion foam pad in the following sequence. ° Separate the hook-and-loop strips. ° Separate the cushion trim cover wire retainer from the clips in the cushion foam pad. ° For vehicles with climate controlled seat, on assembly make sure the climate control seat manifold is in place before snapping the cushion trim cover wire retainer back into the cushion foam pad. Item Part Number Description 1 62901 Cushion trim cover 2 18D507 Cushion climate control seat manifold (**) 3 632A23 Cushion foam pad 4 — Cushion heater mat (part of 632A23) 5 63226 Cushion support 6 W505945 Cushion Thermo-Electric Device (TED)-to-climate control seat cushion adapter screw (**) 7 18D507 Cushion TED adapter (**) 8 63100 Cushion frame 9 62294 Recliner side shield screw 10 W714053 Scrivet 11 62187 Recliner side shield 12 — Safety belt buckle-to-seat track nut (part of 61203) 13 61203 Safety belt buckle 14 18D507 Cushion TED (if equipped) 15 W505945 Cushion TED -to-cushion frame screw (3 required) (**) 16 — Screw grommet (3 required) 17 60328 Cushion frame-to-seat track rear brackets 18 14A163 Wire clip 19 14A699 Driver seat wire harness 20 19E880 Cushion TED filter (if equipped) 21 W506021 Seat track-to-cushion frame bolts (4 required) 22 61711 Power seat track assembly 23 14B416 Seat position sensor (driver only) 24 62294 Seat track cover retainer 25 62187 Seat track cover 26 14A701 Seat control switch 27 62187 Cushion side shield 28 62294 Cushion side shield retainer (3 required) 29 14711 Power lumbar switch knob (**) 30 14711 Power seat recliner knob 31 14711 Seat control switch knob 32 14C708 Driver Seat Module (DSM) (**) 33 62294 DSM -to-bracket screw (2 required) (**) 34 62294 Bracket-to-seat track screws (**) 35 14A301 DSM bracket (**) 36 14A301 Shield bracket 37 62294 Shield bracket screws (**) = (if equipped)

2x^ my mkx at ~95k.

My dealer told be that it was their opinion that coolant played a major role in water pump failures. Ford also put out a tech sheet (I've post a copy on this forum) advising to change orange to green due to their discovering that orange caused corrosion in the cooling system. All coolants break down and lose their corrosion protection as well. Changing will prevent this. I've read on other forums that oil also played a role in failures due to causing excessive wear on the timing chain. A worn chain puts additional stress on the w.p. gear and bearing. I should mention that Ford did change the timing chain guides (tensioner) to prevent chain slap (at leaSt that's what I've read). It seems reasonable that maintenance is a prudent action to follow to extend the life of the water pump. (In-fact, it's the only action an owner can take). That and paying $1800 in preventative maintenance in changing the pump, chain and guides between 150-200k miles.