enigma-2

I use something similar to ones in the link below. They fold into a circular shape approximately 22" Diameter and unfolds into a rectangle. Takes two to fill the windshield. Works well enough and stores easily. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018ERRLU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aZwjBbBG9K80G I've also used an exterior cover simular to the one below. Fastens easily, locks in place when you close the doors and blocks the sunlight BEFORE it enters the windshield. 2-sided, black for winter, (only really useful as an ice shield) aluminum for reflecting summer sun's infrared rays before they pass through the windshield. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AOHYT50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r9wjBbBVJFSS7

See if this video can help

So you say you want the best? http://www.manicci.com/product/manicci-luxury-custom-fitted-auto-mats-dark-brown-diamond-free-delivery/

http://www.autoline.tv/daily/?p=55633 (Two years).

I'm curious, what feature, design or function, do you hate most? Not a long laundry list, just the absolutely one thing the Ford or Lincoln should have (or not have) done differently. As Im still driving a 2009 MKX, I'll start. My biggest urk is not including a rear-view backup camera on domestic vehicles (the Japanese version appearently had the camera). And additionally, not offering a aftermarket kit to add one.

As it's extensive, consider purchasing a service manual off Ebay. Money well spent on such an important undertaking. Example: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372292377918 or https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113045533851 For the complete set.

Told me they use the same machine to change the lubricant in the PTU as they use for differentials. Apparently it can both suck out the old and pump in the new. note: he made me feel as if it was a common piece of equipment in any Ford service shop.

Looks like she finally got broken in.

I had this with mine, they replaced the brake booster, helped a little, but still near floor. Strange enough, took it in for an oil change about 3-4 months later, casually mentioned about the pedal going to floor (but not requesting service) and when I got the car back, had a high, stiff pedal. Thought about turning around and going back to ask what the technician did, but didn't. Whatever he did, it didn't take any real time and nothing on the service sheet to indicate what he did. Had the brake fluid changed at the same time I had brakes put on the front. I always suspected that there was air in the lines. That really helped. Still not what I've experienced with previous cars, but acceptable.

Plenty of people that converted to LED bulbs. I personally haven't seen any that's worth buying..... yet. Found it interesting that he replaced the entire headlight assembly in his Lexus.

Meguiar's G17804 Keep Clear Headlight Coating, 4 oz. $8.44https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4RVVX6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=scottykilmerc-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01M4RVVX6&linkId=c4bc4701eb2fada65a84bfb28cbd0698 Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish - 10 oz. $6.47https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=scottykilmerc-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0000AY3SR&linkId=189d90e6c4346eb1a8b8abab623734e5 Scotty Kilmer's video. If Scotty recommends this products, they should be good. (Just ordered one of each, been using 303 protectant and have no yellowing or cracking, but always ready to try something new.).

As for the key, I bought mine off Ebay from a Ford dealer. Here's one listing for an OEM key blank. (Personally I would avoid the cheaper Chinese knockoffs. (Too important an item should you be in a distant location and find it's gone kaput). https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2011-2012-2013-2014-2015-FORD-EXPLORER-4B-KEYLESS-REMOTE-UNCUT-HEAD-KEY-FOB/351871465451?fits=Year%3A2013%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&epid=1611236637&hash=item51ed2c77eb:g:XToAAOSwzaJX-oWt:sc:USPSFirstClass!46526!US!-1 You WILL have to take the key to either a locksmith or local dealer to get it programmed to the car. You could also price the FOB, cutting and programming through the locksmith and see if there's a big difference in price or not. And here's a video on where to find the factory door code. Remember that the previous owner's code is still programmed into your car and should be over-ridden as soon as possible (for security purposes). The procedure is simple and in your owner's manual.

It looks more like a gasket used to prevent water from migrating under the front of the spoiler. Item Part Number Description 1 W651016-S Spoiler nut covers (2 required) 2 W621926-S Spoiler nuts (5 required) 3 010807 Spoiler 4 Spoiler retainers (part of 010807) 5 021A46 Spoiler gasket 1. Remove the liftgate trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 . 2. Disconnect the electrical connector and the rear windshield washer hose from the rear spoiler. 3. Remove the 5 rear spoiler nuts. ° Remove the 2 nut covers. ° Remove the 5 nuts. ° To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 4. Place a piece of tape on the liftgate to protect the paint. 5. NOTE: There are 4 pin-type retainers on the bottom of the spoiler. When removing the spoiler it is difficult to access the retainers to release them from the liftgate. It may be necessary to pry upward on the rear spoiler to release it from the retainers. Do not pry on the window. ° Remove the rear spoiler. ° Place a pry bar between the liftgate and the spoiler. 6. To install, reverse the removal procedure. edit: this was for a 2009 edge, think it's the same.

Thats surprising. What purpose, drain slots?

Kind of sounds like someone programmed in the wrong tire size.

Door stills pop off. Pry with body tool slowly. If clips stay on the sill tabs, take off and replace before reinstalling the sill. (Service manual requires replacing clips when sill removed). BTW why are you removing the door sills. Door lock ground wire does not run through there?

Does the Mustang seats have side airbags?

Some tires get loud and rough after 29k or so. Had a set of Michelin's that made me think I had bad motor mounts after only 20k. What tires are you running, how many miles?

What possible purpose would it serve? Just judging by looking at the photos, it looks like it was ripped out.

It seems that the common link is the ECM. Have you checked the ECM for dirty, corroded or broken wire connections? Possibly a reflash/reset? .

Tranny's red, so that would be my guess. If it were me, I'd call the dealer first thing Monday morning and ask him. I'd push how afraid I am of being stranded, etc. They may authorize (pay for) the tow to protect the transmission from being damaged. You "could" top it off, but how many of us keep the correct transmission fluid around for just such a possibility?

https://youtu.be/1MGSv8dQmtQ

Curb feelers?Spinner hubcaps? Fart cannon? Ouh, ouh I got it, pin stripes !!! (Sorry, got carried away as you covered so much). Edit: door lock protector cover? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182341343113

As you didn't mention checking the mass airflow sensor ... also the airflow leading into the MAF, esp aftermarket air filters and assoc. Like WWWPerfA_NOW asked, what codes are showing?

Mine are also on their third year. (Wife's as well).