enigma-2

Not a subscription nor an update. Been on Ford/Lincoln since Sync 1. I know if you don't have a cell phone linked to your car, you'll get a message that 911 is not available.

True enough, but the OP clearly stated he wanted a printed manual. I personally favor a printed manual as well. Clarify: For my car. I actually have all my appliances and equipment on PDF. Great space saver (and I can't find half of the anyway.) Cell PDFs puts everything in one place. .

For whatever its worth, you could pick up a set off Ebay. Since 2015, they should be interchangeable.

@rafeeki posted here back in 2023 that they were discontinued for the 2024 Edge. (As well as a bunch of other stuff.)

Of course you do an alignment after changing any part in the suspension or steering components. The old alignment was based on worn components. Rotate your tires as well. .

Kind of sounds like those pesky flapper vanes used in the air outlets flapping when the pressure (speed) gets high enough.

I believe that this circuit is controlled through the smart junction box. I'd try resetting all the modules in the car by disconnecting the battery for several minutes (allows the internal capacitors to bleed down.) BTW, did you do any lighting modifications to your car?

"Park" is set by moving a small lever (known as a "pawl") into the gear train, which is located inside the transmission. It basically throws a cog into the gears. Has nothing to do with the driveshaft or rear axle.

Might watch this video

In addition to what @Haz said, I think id try one other thing, before tearing into the door. I agree that the problem is the release rod, which runs from the electromechanical lock mechanism to the outside door handle, probably has gunk hold it and preventing it from full movement. What I'd do is, remove the outside door handle (one screw accessible after opening door, be very, very carefull and don't drop this screw inside the door cavity, use a magnetic screwdriver) and wiggle the connecting rod up and down several times. Spray WD40 down into the mechanism. Then work it up and down some more. Should only take a few minutes. - Unless you drop the mounting screw .......... :-(

So why not just use the OEM bolts? The ones you took out to replace the arm? Or, go back to the dealer you bought the Chinese, junk aftermarket arm from and have him sell you the correct length bolts. (Some aftermarket arms (Mooge) come with new bolts. According to Truedrive specifications for the 2008 edge lower control arms, they require the use of M12 x 1.75 bolts in bushing.

NHTSA Recall ID Number : 25T003 Synopsis : Bridgestone Americas Tire Operation (BATO) is recalling certain Blizzark 6 tires, size 235/40R19. The DOT certification symbol is missing from the tire sidewalls. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 139, "New Pneumatic Radial Tires for Light Vehicles." Tires that are missing a DOT symbol may be used in inappropriate applications, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the tires as necessary, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed May 9, 2025. Owners may contact BATO's customer service at 1-800-847-3272.

Is it possible that one has the Beosonic sound system and the other doesn't?

When I last had my rotors / pads changed, I had my Ford service dept go with the upgraded pads. (Same OEM rotors, why waste your money, emergency stops are controlled by tire size, not rotor size/type.) Anyway, I did notice that the braking on mild stops was somewhat improved. That was several thousand miles ago and I've never had a single complaint with these pads.

The car was originally avaliable with 265/40R21's. The only difference is that the 275 is 10 millimeters wider than the 265 tire. Both tires have the same aspect ratio (40) and rim diameter (21"), meaning they will have the same overall height and will fit the same wheel size. So it comes down whether a tire 1/2" wider will fit. My -guess- is yes, but I've been wrong before.

As there was no follow up, and if you still have this problem, I can offer a couple of suggestions. A fairly common issue is the connector to the Seat Heater Control Module (under the seat) overheating and burning, especially the power or grounding pins. Try checking the connector (under the passenger seat) for any signs of burning. You could also try unplugging and replugging the connector to see if that changes anything. The other thing that may or may not apply, is that some cars therecis an over temperature thermostat (wired in series inside the heaters) to prevent overheating. It works by turning off the heater when the seat reaches a certain temperature. It's remotely possible that it has changed its operation and become sensitive to cold.

Think "engagement thingies" is the correct name.

Kind of sounds like the Auto High Beam setting got confused when you installed the LEDs. I'd try resetting the circuit first: (on the touchscreen) >vehicle settings >Vehicle >Lighting >Auto High Beam and toggle it off or on.

Officially, Ford says it will last a lifetime. (Fords definition of lifetime is the warranty period.) After the local Ford/Lincoln service replaced my PTU, the service manager told me to change the fluid at 30k intervals. Nothing written in blood, if you pull a trailer, change each year. If not, figure 30k.

Here's what I did. I went online and got a quote from Levittown Ford. Then scheduled an "The Works" oil change with my local Lincoln/Ford service dept. After The Works, I walked up and talked to the Business Manager (he's the one who writes the contracts.) He gave me the usual spiel on the various plans & costs. I picked the best and then told him I had a quote from Levittown. Would he match. (Of course he would, never had been in that spot before, caught him off guard.) I had printed out the quote, he read it and instantly matched. Then he said that they would need to do an inspection on the car. $100. (This is normal as when they write a contract on a used car, the need for the dealer to do a full inspection to make certain their not getting stuck with an existing condition. If they find anything, you're required to bring it up to snuff before the contract is signed.) Said I had just had the car inspected in their service bay. Got "The Works" oil change. He looked surprised, and called the service manager. Service Manager told him that I was just in and an inspection was part of the service. Didn't find anything. So no $100 inspection charge. 😁 OK, he's got the contract ready and I then ask him "what else can he do for me, to best the offer from Levittown Ford." He asks what do I mean and I said that I wanted a $0 deductible. Looks dumb founded. Hits the calculator and offers me a $0 deductible if I have all of my service done in their shop. (Otherwise its a $100 deductible.) Sure, no problem, so I sign, save hundreds of dollars and a hundred at each service. PTU began belching black goo 3 months later. Service personnel came into waiting room, long face, sorry, just found, estimated around $1,800, sorry. And they also found the right tie rod was bad. $450 (I think.) Ok, let's get it scheduled. We walk back out to the service desk and I inform them I have Extended Service. They tell me that I may have to pay for the service then turn it in to my warranty company. (They explain how many of the aftermarket warranty companies refuse to authorize or are slow to pay and they are tired of the hassle.) Can't blame them. Tell them I have the Ford Extended Warranty, faces brighten and click, click on the computer and we'll get you scheduled next week. No problem, no cost. 😁

$167, free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/187019881257?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Jwo_CDvvQDG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@WyoEdge ever get this figured out?

You have a 24 don't you? If so, you can swap in a temp gage by using the steering wheel controls.

Probably wrong, but my guess is the bulb is ready to go out. Turns on, heats up, filament gets hot and opens until it cools. Rinse repeate. Q. Did you modify the harness in any way when attempting to put in the LEDs?

Possibility that when the car wash ripped the part off, one or more of those clips were lost. Think that I seen them *or something like them) at Advanced Auto.