enigma-2

Tip from famous YouTube tow truck owner:

Should be able to find chains to fit your edge here: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguidechains.htm?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_Yq-BhC9ARIsAA6fbAjtbZ734WY3F3K-xqOOkWZnPHfawr5wocJ_V_da8a-mYUa-q46m3ikaAhbKEALw_wcB

I'm running 245/50 R20 wheels with a factory 165/80 D17 spare. The spare is labeled “THIS TIRE AND WHEEL FOR TEMPORARY USE ONLY.” there are several conditions listed when using, such as max speed of 70 mph, don't take the car through a commercial car wash and don't use snow chains. My owners manual doesn't differentiate between the 17" & 18" spare, and I have driven using the 17" spare with my 20" wheels w/o problems. (I have AWD.)

The 2.7 EcoBoost engine is known for having several problems due to the engine design and direct injection. One of the most common problems is high oil consumption. (A common failure is due to oil plan leaks due to the plastic oil pan and gasket design.) But there are other, internal causes. This website talks about these and other problems, symptoms and fixes on the 2.7 EcoBoost engines. https://lemonlawexperts.com/ford-2-7-ecoboost-problems/#Problem_4_Head_Gasket_Failures

Whats wrong with Motorcraft?

Second that. Drilled slotted rotors have more heat resistance after hard braking, but actually degrades stopping on a street car (holes and slots in the disks have less braking surface area to press against.) To increase hard braking, wider tires work better. (Once any braking system locks up, the only factor left in stopping to car is the friction between the tires and the ground. The more tire surface in contact with the ground, the more friction exists.)

Had to go to the doctor yesterday for 6-month check up, wife drove. Of course on the way home we had to stop at the Dollar Tree (ahem) and I stayed in the car. Left irmt running as it was cold and very, very windy so I decided to listen to Fox Business on Sirus. Got tied of the downer and pushed the #6 button to change to 60's radio; and nothing happened. Pushed all 6 buttons, nothing. Pushed off, nothing, radio stayed on. Turned the car off, radio stayed on. Pulled out the key, radio stayed on. Started car and pressed the media button on the steering wheel & no Sync. Tried everything I could think of. Finally figured it out. Fix was to turn off the car, remove the key, open the car door, close and wait a few seconds until the timeout turned everything off. (It was at this point that the radio turned off.) Then open the door, started the car and everything worked fine after that. Figured the car was pissed off that I let my wife drive; and figured it was throwing a temper tantrum. ✊😡👊

Honestly, not much to go on, but to me it sounds like some type of vacuum valve opening (or closing) and vibrating when moving. There are vacuum valves inside the cabin. Does it sound like the sound is emulating from inside or outside the cabin? About the only way I can think of isolating the sound would be to place a microphone around various places in the engine compartment and narrowing down when its loudest.

Well, if you don't succeed the first two times, ..... Sorry to hear that, icy streets?

Outch..! I had mine replaced, but it was under an extended warranty. If I remember correctly, it was under $2k. (Gen 1)

"Blinker," I was being facetious. Sorry, long day. 🙂 Why are you replacing the ABS module?

Found them on Amazon. Not too expensive. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=seatbelt+extender+for+ford&adgrpid=71528143127&hvadid=589905295884&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016241&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=12170112768007906479&hvtargid=kwd-424967327708&hydadcr=18758_13485101&mcid=e5b7195914aa302bb04cf491b6e2f8cf&tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_7id77nypc5_b

Did you get a quote from your local Ford dealer as a starting point? Also, you may find this video of help

You try torching the bolt?

Things to consider as well: Power steering Brake fluid PTU Coolant Blinker RDU (90k or after anytime car driven through deep water) Can of fuel injection & system cleaner (1-2× year) Cabin filter Check air pressure in spare tire

Any chance the parking brake is malfunctioning? (On mine, there are shoes, but don't know if they changed the design on electric models.) Usually the front go first. I changed my front twice before the rear. I know that certain 2017 Edge models are having problems with the rear brake hoses. While the problems reported by NHTSA have been brake failure when the hoses ruptured, I wonder if its possible that the hoses are bent or have a reduced diameter. (Allowing high pressure to apply the brakes, but not allowing the fluid to drain back properly; keeping the pads in contact with the rotor.) .

Don't know where else to stick this thread. Passenger seatbelt is constantly locking on wife. She has to unbuckle and let it go slack to get it to release. I was able to free up the mechanism by using WD40 a couple of years ago; but it's back with a vengeance. Took to the Ford garage, told them to put a new belt assy on. Oh, nay, nay, you fool. They don't sell seatbelts for such an old car. Had them spray some PB Blaster on the mechanism, but it didn't help. Guess I'll go to ebay and buy one from a wreck. Anyone else having a similar problem? .

I believe that the reason is because the front seatbelts have pretensioners which put an additional load on the latch mechanism. Because of this, there is considerable more tensile forces on the front seats compared to the back. When we used a booster seat for my grandson, we found the seatbelt was tight as well. Went to Ford and got one extension for the back seat (they only stock one at a time as they're free and not in high demand.) Before that however, I discovered that putting my knee in the seat to push it as deep into seat as possible allowed extra length on the belt. Its easier with the extension however. Why don't you just bite the bullet and buy a couple off ebay? BTW, tell the parts dept that you need the extenders for your wife's mother and father. They're overweight and unable to fasten their seatbelts. That they just hold them pretending to be wearing them. (Parts guy told me to use this excuse as they hate to order them unless it's a "safety issue".) .

$58 for a 2024 Edge manual. https://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=FMC&Make=FRD&Model=EDGE&Year=&Category=&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=

All cars exhibit this frosting problem when still cold and human breathing causes excess moisture to fill the cabin. Heating the interior hot enough will cause the interior windows to clear. It sounds like either the recirculating / fresh air door motor is stuck in the recirculation position, or the defrost door isn't reaching the full open position. Q. Do you have a strong defrost airflow? Does it sound like the door is switching between recirculating and outside air? The other possibility is that there's not sufficient heat being directed to the cabin interior. This is usually attributed to a blockage in the heater core due to mixing diffetent coolants, etc. Q. Does the heater warm the interior of the car? Warm enough to peal off your hat and coat? Along with this is insufficient airflow in the cabin. Running the heater in the recirculating position can cause this. Also junk under the seats can block airflow rearward. Air circulation is critical.

Little weird. I was looking in the 2024 Edge Owners Manual and the relay was #40, fuse was #50. But in the 2024 Lincoln Nautilus there's no horn fuse or relay listed.

Must have been on earlier years where I remember reading this.

Don't know if you progressed on this since posting, but I'd certainly pay the diagnostic fee as its probably serious (or will be.) Just curious, FWD front or AWD?

New bearing greased properly? Grease on splines where shaft flexes in and out?

@CrackedDSM wasn't too specific as to the exact location. His advice was to start checking the wiring at each sensor (each wheel), follow up into car and then to ABS module. He found his break in the harness under the back seat. Its more likely that a break would occur under the car where it's subject to ice, snow, road debris like rocks and stuff. Under the back seat sorta tells me he had shoved something under the seat, hitting the harness. crusting. I'd also check the connector at the ABS module for green crusties.