enigma-2

It's possible that the pads could have pieces of metal or gunk embedded in them. Last brake job, did you put in OEM or aftermarket? Metallic or organic? (Organic is softer & quieter, tiny pieces of metal can embed in them and cause squeeking.)

Tell us your car brand, model & year. Then tell us ehat sort of problem(s) are you having with your brakes? As you have replaced the Master cylinder, can rule that out. If you step on the break pedal, does it go to the floor? Have you pulled the wheels and checked to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking? Brake hoses leaking?

May be easier and cheaper to just switch to a Weight-Distributing Hitch. Easily levels the towing vehicle, rides smother and limits sway. My dad and I towed a trailer all over the Midwest back in the 60's with one, worked great. Think it was a Reese. Harbor Freight sells one for less than a two hundred dollar bill.

They're LED if I'm not mistaken (least that's what is states in the owners manual.) You're probably going to need a service manual and replace the assy. @HAZ?

May not do any good, but you could run an self diagnostic mode on the speakers. Radio on, switch to AM or FM. On vehicles with an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the on/off button and the seek down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested. On vehicles without an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the stering wheel switch seek left button and the steering wheel switch volume down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested.

Next step is to contact Ford Corporate. 800-392-3673 (Mon-Fri 8:00am-8:00pm EST) Use your highly dissatisfied voice (squeekiest wheel ... grease)

8. If the test fluid turns yellow in gasoline engines or green in diesel engines, it indicates the engine has a combustion leak. If the test fluid remains blue, no combustion gas is present in the coolant indicating there is no combustion leak. If leaks are detected, have engine repaired by a qualified repair technician. Any possibility that there may be a leak from a cracked heater hose?

@KoKo there are several kits available on Ebay. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/295777069979?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=p0rx1Sv3SRu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You change just the fans or the complete fan assembly? @1004ron asked you if you used Motorcraft or aftermarket because, if you change the fan assembly and use aftermarket, fans not working afterwards is a known problem. The aftermarket fan assembly connectors have been found to be wired incorrectly. (Among other factors.)

Ummmmm, let's compromise. I'll say I was wrong if you admit I was right. 😁

Ummmmm, let's compromise. I'll say I was wrong if you admit I was right.

AFAIK there are two different 3.5 L engines, one that faces forward with an external water pump and the the other a transverse (as in the Edge) with an external water pump. As far as the 14 parts in a kit, you can check out this kit for what's included. Not recommending as it's not Motorcraft, and I'd only use Motorcraft, but gives you a good idea as to what's included. https://www.partsgeek.com/4zlxl33-ford-edge-timing-chain-kit-and-water-pump.html While you're tearing down the engine, I'd also go with new plugs, new coil skirts & new EGR.

A P0365 code indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor or its circuit. And its a serious problem. Usual problem areas is the faulty camshaft position sensor, oil leaking onto the sensor or a short in the sensor circuit wiring or connector. Theres also a possibility of a PCM failure. Probably need an oscilloscope to map the signals coming out of the sensor to be certain. I recommend taking it to a competent service tech or dealer. Could be something as simple as a mouse feeding on your wiring harness.

$5800 for a head gasket....? WOW! Get another opinion.

Use RockAuto as your base, then check Levittown Ford. https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm5e5BhCWARIsANwm06jv6lt2YUw3H_-qOUFO9e0xocYRw8sTbDr03pDXDCXnOSb2zOtg6Y8aAmpoEALw_wcB

I was trying to think up something humorous about your oil and vacuum story ... but it was too crude to post.

Your edge has a front differential 😳

Yea, 35k miles is too low for plugs. I'd suspect a spark leak through a split coil boot, but ....

Little more info. What kind of headlights do you have, halogen, LED or HID? Each system fails in a different way. Any modifications to the system? Correct bulbs?

I realize this is ancient, but if you are still experiencing the problem, one area to suspect first is the connector that plugs into the light. Check for green fuzzys (corrosion), even a small amount can cause problems.

Do you have Sync Map open and if CarPlay connected? Could be related to your navigation system, school zone or the like. Open the navigation screen and see if its displaying anything when it dings.

Before you fire the parts cannon, I'd have a look at the module connector for green fuzziness or mice mods on the wiring.

Do you use Android Auto or Car Play? Wonder if it may be commanding the audio on.

Its been my experience that either will fit perfectly. I'm only guessing but I would assume the difference could be as small as different suppliers or a small, non important modification. Several sites state that the B version supercedes the A, indicating that when the A runs out, use B. If they were truly different parts, the part number 449 would change.

Check fuse #76 (30a) in the engine fuse box and fuse #10 (5 amp) in the interior fuse box. Both control the liftgate.