Brucifer

Took the key I ordered off EBay in the link above to the same locksmith that made my second remote key. They said it wouldn't work, but I had them cut the key anyways figuring I wasn't going to return it and if anything I would have a way to unlock the outside doors. Went home and followed the instructions in the manual and low and behold, it started the car. Remote didn't work with the key locks, but I reprogrammed everything with the 8-cycle method. I now have a switchblade key! Still ordered a third conventional style key which is on it's way. Late Edit: As per the owner's manual, you are only allowed 4 remote keys to be paired to the car. You can have 8 keys overall; that's 4 remotes and 4 standards. So, technically, the third remote key I ordered can only be used as standard key: the lost key, the key that came with the car, my purchased & programmed key, and the switchblade key fulfill my 4 remote allotment. Even Later Edit: Went back to my programming locksmith to get some house keys and key rings and talked about how surprised we both were that the switchblade key worked. I was bemoaning the issue of one of my 4 remote keys being lost, but they said I am still good to go for my incoming key. Once you do the 8-cycle programming, only the keys present to be programmed will be linked to the car. Hypothetically, you have 8 remote keys that start and run your car (two original and six aftermarket). You can do the 8-cycle programming for keys 1, 2, 3, and 4 because those keys are the one present to press the buttons and cycle the locks. The couch devours remote #1. You 8-cycle again with keys 2, 3, 4, and 5. The couch barfs up key #1. Key #1 will start the car (as they all will), but the remote feature will not work. Cliff Notes: I will be able to program my new 4th key to start the car and work the lock remotely.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19050-replacement-key-fob/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19107-where-to-buy-new-key/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18211-program-new-key-fobs/ For the most part, you are SOL. I see two options (other than finding that lost key): sweet talk your favor with the dealer into getting a good discount on a replacement key or going to a full-service locksmith to have a replacement made. Modern keys aren't cheap. Either way, once you have two keys again, buy another key (or two) and program them yourself as per the owner's manual. My suggestion is to get a price from the local locksmith, then go to your dealer to see what is the best they can do for you. Go with the cheaper key, then start looking for replacement keys. I ordered this one from EBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400502917806?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I am still waiting for delivery, so I can't say it works, but there are other options for you: http://www.fordkeysource.com/ford.aspx http://www.remotesremotes.com/2007-Ford-Edge-Keyless-Remote-Key-Fob-Clicker-s/3272.htm The important part is that you have the right FCC ID number. Not sure on what that is, but when you are at the dealer, try and get the part number for the key. I can't vouch for either of the links above, but it's a start. Don't forget you don't have to get another remote fob key. You can get a standard key without the buttons which will be a bit cheaper, but you miss out on all those Lock/Unlock features (BUT you can amaze your friends with your keypad entry skills!).

Update on the bulbs: Front ambers are not working as parking lights. Swapped them out with my red rears and the reds would work, other than them being red... Wrote the vendor to see if there was an issue with the amber ones. Did play around a little bit with my resistors. Can't say if they helped hyperflashing, but I don't know if I need to do the rears at the same time. Did find out that the retaining clip on my front flasher is missing, so I'll need to keep that in mind in case it goes out or if I am at the local pick-n-pull. I'll get to pics one of these days. What I really want to do is pull the car into the garage and take pics of the light throw against a wall. If I had taken one of the wife's reverse lights, you could see why blindly throwing LED's into a car may not be the best idea. I wasn't going for brighter lights per se, as much as I was going for more intense light.

Update on the bulbs: Front ambers are not working as parking lights. Swapped them out with my red rears and the reds would work, other than them being red... Wrote the vendor to see if there was an issue with the amber ones. Did play around a little bit with my resistors. Can't say if they helped hyperflashing, but I don't know if I need to do the rears at the same time. Did find out that the retaining clip on my front flasher is missing, so I'll need to keep that in mind in case it goes out or if I am at the local pin-n-pull.

I have a '07 and have s similar issue with reverse. Had a hard shift issue between 3rd and 4th after my spark plug change. Local shop tested it, reset it and it continued. They called a transmission shop and they suggested a flush and flash. Did the flush and it helped with the forward shifting, but the flash is dealer only and out of budget for the month. Still have a lag going from Drive to Reverse. Shop did find something about a flash having to do with a new valve body, but the sound of cash registers going off drowned out what they were saying exactly. Granted, our cars are years apart, but I'm not sure if the tranny changed that much.

I'm doubling up my post on my choices for external LED's: Installed these in the front flashers: http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Front flashers are great as flashers. Not so great as parking lights. I do have resistors to install which should help with that. Somewhat hyperflashing, but nothing too crazy. Bought the resistors for the flashing, but unknown as yet if I have to double up in the front to get parking lights as well as a slower flash. And these as tail lights: http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Tail lights barely fit into red tail cone. Disbursement is still nice as to filling out the reflector. It has a built in heatsink and with the melt hole in the top of the cone, shouldn't have any problem with heat. Reverse: http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Not too-too thrilled with the reverse lights. Nice and white, but I have a feeling that the throw is a little vague. I tried the same bulb in the wife's '16 Mazda CX-5 and the stock bulb, though yellow, seemed to have a more direct beam when parked 5 feet from the garage wall. I have a feeling that the same pattern is happening with my Edge. Just too lazy at the moment to do a side-by-side with it. I think I am going to have to find the right bulb because of the dark tint on the windows. Rear Side Marker: http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT It's a marker light.....it's marking.....

Installed these in the front flashers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281646604923?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And these as tail lights: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281482509960?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Reverse: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281640608501?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Rear Side Marker: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321405027185?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Front flashers are great as flashers. Not so great as parking lights. I do have resistors to install which should help with that. Somewhat hyperflashing, but nothing too crazy. Bought the resistors for the flashing, but unknown as yet if I have to double up in the front to get parking lights as well as a slower flash. Tail lights barely fit into red tail cone. Disbursement is still nice as to filling out the reflector. It has a built in heatsink and with the melt hole in the top of the cone, shouldn't have any problem with heat. Not too-too thrilled with the reverse lights. Nice and white, but I have a feeling that the throw is a little vague. I tried the same bulb in the wife's '16 Mazda CX-5 and the stock bulb, though yellow, seemed to have a more direct beam when parked 5 feet from the garage wall. I have a feeling that the same pattern is happening with my Edge. Just too lazy at the moment to do a side-by-side with it. I think I am going to have to find the right bulb because of the dark tint on the windows. It's a marker light.....it's marking.....

I came from a BMW forum where I could find out any bit of information about my car. I had several different websites to choose parts from. I even was able to buy software (pirated) that allowed me to change basic car functions as well see and clear errors. Here, not so much. Being that i doubt you will be back, I can make any sort of comment on your snotty attitude. For one, you didn't give any sort of information other than the camera doesn't work. WWWPerfA_ZN0W asked questions that you glossed right over to throw a snit because no one offered to drop everything and come running to your house and fix it for you. Do you have any idea as to how a modern car works, or do you even have to get someone to put gas in it for you? There could be a problem with the camera at the back of the car. There could be a problem with the head unit which holds the screen. There could be a problem with the wire(s) that run from the rear of the camera to the head unit. Where would you like to start? Would you rather I tell you how to replace the harness for the camera? I have the Service Manuals. It might not fix the problem, but it's an answer. As advice to future posters that might read this thread: POST IN THE APPROPRIATE SECTION FOR YOUR ISSUE (yes, that was for you, Denise) - This thread *should* be in the Audio, Navigation & SYNC section. List the vehicle - year, SE, SEL, SEL+, Sport, Limited, etc. List the mileage - give us an idea as to how old the vehicle is in terms of use. List the issue. List what might of lead up to the issue, what was happening when the issue occurs (noise, smell, flashing, speed, vibration) Mechanical skill level - VERY IMPORTANT! If you don't have the patience, tools, space, time or dexterity, even changing the front bank of spark plugs on a 3.5 engine might be beyond you and requires the use of a professional. There is no shame in this. Everyone has places that they shine better than others. Also, remember that members here don't sit in front of their computers 24/7 waiting to answer your question (well, some might).

Tranny flush! Time will tell as to the shift issue, which is OK since I want to give it time before flashing it.

Disconnected both grounds and the positive onthe battery as I made all the surface areas shiney. Might of had the whole thing apart for 15 minutes or more since I took as much time as I could (albeit it was raining on me). Shift lurch is still there, but I believe it's between 3rd and 4th. Going to consult the service manual as to possible causes. Might take it to the dealer (or local shop if they have the tech) to hook it up to the computer to see what codes might be spitting out and reflash the software. My onboard MPG thingy said I picked up about a mile per gallon, but I've been running longer, more constant speeds since the last fill up. Blower motor is the next major project. Watched the liftgate shock video and I might do that, too. Ordered the LED bulbs and resistors, too.

LED is not all easy-peasy. It's a brake/tail/turn bulb so you will have to add a resistor to keep it from hyperflashing. I'm getting close to having all the bulbs and resistors to make it work like a normal bulb, I swapped the reverse and side marker lights with no problem. I did get a 3157 LED bulb for the tails, but it was too long for the red cone that makes up the tail light. I think I might have a shorter version off of EBay, but I have to get it first. I'm not thrilled with my hyperflashing front bulbs, but I might end up swapping those out with another style. I thought adding an resistor would be rather straight forward, but with a three wire system, there are 6 combinations that might work. A to B, A to C, B to C and so on. Not bad on paper, but rolling around in the engine compartment tapping wires doesn't sound like fun. THe other issue is that the resistor generates heat, so you have to place it somewhere it won't melt it's surroundings. I might try extending the leads of the resistor so I can mount it anywhere and havethe added bonus of having enough slack to remove the bubl if I need to. Not too sure if I can insert a resistor into the space of the tail light assembly or have to get creative with a wire route. Even if there is enough room to bolt/screw the resistor to the metal part of the assembly, would it be far enough away to keep from melting the plastic?

Ended up going to a local full-service locksmith and it was $200 out the door. They explained that it's so pricey because there is the cost of the equipment, yearly updates and tokens that cost for each install. They also said that you can have up to 8 keys dedicated to the car and if you need to add more because of lost keys (and 8 are paired to the car already), you have to go to the dealer to have them remove said lost keys. I'm trying this EBay key for giggles and see how it goes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111463774568?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Not sure if I will make it my regular fob if it works, but I need some extras so I don't have to go to the locksmith again.

Did the back half today. Went a little better than expected. The two rear hoses were a pain to get the clamp off of them. They have both been replaced with standard hose clamps. The clamp on the throttle body seemed somewhat loose; could be a sloppy job on changing out the air filter. Did snap one of the red retaining clips. I undid one from the front and swapped out out so if I come across one at a later point in time, it will be easy-peasy to put it back in. With everything out of the way, the heated PCV valve was a breeze. Rattled like a spray can, but no point in leaving it there this far into it. I was thinking I could of gone the cheaper route and just replaced it with a non-heated one, but once again, I'm not trying to take any chances. I know some may not approve of this method, but I smeared di-electric grease across all female connectors, then used a blue towel to clean off the face. This would leave a small deposit in each hole for re-connection. I am 99% sure I have everything connected up. I was in somewhat in a rush because I had an appointment in the middle of the day, then wanted to do a test run before it got too dark and the Trick-or-Treaters came out (rain might slow them down anyways). I noticed right off I had somewhat of a surge in RPM around the shift point. It settled down a little bit, but it somewhat noticeable more as a harder shift than normal. I didn't seem to have a problem with cruise control on; more on surface streets, but it's still a bit early to tell how bad it is. I did have a bit of a lag with Reverse coming from Drive before, so I can't say that this is purely from my handiwork. I'll check everything again tomorrow morning and might even disconnect the battery tomorrow; more for greasing the connections, but maybe something will reset during the downtime. Can't say that it has more power or better mileage just yet. Most plugs were in the .65+ range.

Did the front half of swapping out the spark plugs. OEM.....with a blue dot on top of the spark plug and .74 gap! I guess that's what you get when you run original for 130,000. Going to attempt the back bank tomorrow with the engine cold. Did I mention that I have the added pleasure of swapping out the heated PVC valve? '07 Baby! Just so I could spend a hunnert dolla at the dealer, I bought an antenna, too (part #18813). I know it was the dealer, but I bought the car from them and they have been giving fairly decent discounts on washer pumps and mirror switches; most of which were ending up as dealer items anyways.

Are you using four bolts to secure the license plate to the liftgate? Have you wiggled different parts of the liftgate to see if they move (including the tail lights)?

If the turn signals are controlled by a module instead of a relay, could you do something like this if you knew where the proper board was on the SJB? http://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/g-109-diy-eliminate-led-bulb-induced-hyper-flashing-without-load-resistors-815219/

I should of asked if you have a listing of all the numbers I need to look for.

Where does everyone get their replacement keys for the DIY programming? EBay is always a favorite, but somewhat risky to getting the correct fob/blank. I know there are remote replacement websites, but I'm a cheap bastard.

I'm really tempted by the Spec-D lights, but I don't know if the bad reviews are for the product itself or people thinking that they come with thermonuclear fusion light generators. Do they throw light as well as the stock ones?

Dark tint in windows, painted 18" wheels, chrome grill and foglight bezels..... A couple of Landua Bars and I will have a hearse. No tail light options and only Spec-D for the front. Any suggestions to make it stand out a bit? Other than a rocket launcher turret.

2007 MKX: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/4387-how-to-replacing-fog-light-bulbs-mkx/ 2007 Edge: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12624-fog-light-bezel-removal-and-refinish/ Paul's: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Edge-Fog-Light-Bulb-Replacement-Guide/

Playing around with the settings and I come to the Nav part. 'Access the Nav DVD' or whatever it says....automaticly eject or close after 5 minutes....hit the button, the faceplate slides down flat then goes back up again. I'm guessing that the DVD is in there because there was an empty case in the glove box and I have a map. Is there someway to reset the system so I can get the disk to eject?

I received only one key when I purchased my '07 SEL. I'm hoping the dealership will be able to find the other one, but I have a feeling that it's going to come down to buying a new one. The local dealer wants $225 for the fob. Do different dealers have different prices for keys? I remember that BMW dealer prices could bounce all over the place. In any event, the plan is to get the two so I can program keys I find on Ebay and such. If I do find one, does it have to be an unprogrammed one, or will the process in the owner's manual overwrite a previous program?

From what I can find, the only choice I have if I want to change the look of my head lights is to use Spec-D's. http://www.specdtuning.com/2lhp-edg07jm-tm.html As a stand-alone unit, how do they stand up? I understand that as projector style head lights, they might be lacking, but I'm looking at the DRL aspects of the halo and 'eyebrow'. Do they perform as well as stock with a H11? I saw in another thread that someone suggested using an H9 bulb to increase lumens. I'm not looking to go HID at the moment. Being that I have a '07, there isn't a real good spot to put aftermarket DRLs, or at least I haven't found a LED setup that is small enough to look good. I thought about a bar going across the grill, but I have a feeling that would be overkill.