mjonis

Ugh, still problems on the 2016? Well, hopefully the figure it out soon (but doesn't sound like it since the 2015 have the same issue). That would drive me crazy. My '05 Equinox is finally making a noise after all these years, but I think it's the front tweeter either lose or dying. Drives me crazy every time I get in the car. Will have to analyze it this weekend.

Sure thing. My 2 others: 2017 Kia Sorento (not out yet, so I'm basing this upon the 2016 Sorento on the Kia website). The SXL (or Limited if you go by the website) trim. Turbo, not the V6. With Tech package. The other is the 2017 (not out yet either) Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0 T w/Ultimate. I did test drive the 2015 Edge SEL (nobody had Titanium in our area), and the 2016 SXL Kia. But my test drives were limited strictly to how silent the car was (decibel) and how smooth the ride was. I had planned a 2nd round of test drives for the "feature" set. But I nixed that because I was waiting for the 2016 Ford with sync3, and then I was hoping Kia will have Android/Carplay in their 2017 (Hyunda is adding that in their 2017 Santa Fe).

Could be because I live in New York, but when I leased a Ford from Ford Motor Credit in 1999 (yes, ages ago) GAP insurance was included. Of course now it's not called a Lease due to some stupid NYS law about holding the manufacturer responsible for things you did if it's called a "lease". But regardless, if leasing, I'd definitely make sure the signed paperwork has GAP insurance somewhere (checkbox/etc). Interestingly the NYS DFS doesn't quite say it's mandatory unless certain conditions apply: http://www.dfs.ny.gov/insurance/ogco2008/rg080320.htm And, off topic, but the above link is the reason why I was unable to purchase an extended warranty from HP for a laptop I bought years ago. The DFS determined that an extended warranty was "insurance" and HP was not licensed to sell insurance in New York. Ironically the NY State government agencies could purchase extended warranties from HP for the pc's/servers that the STATE bought, but we, as consumers, could not.

Sounds like that's why you don't want to do a downpayment (or large one) if at all possible: http://www.carsdirect.com/auto-loans/should-i-put-any-money-down-when-i-lease http://www.nj.com/business/index.ssf/2014/05/your_money_why_a_big_down_payment_on_a_car_lease_is_a_big_mistake.html http://www.realcartips.com/leasing/0314-dont-put-down-payment-on-car-lease.shtml

Without seeing the actual CR article, I'd question as to their methodology. Was this "overall" with several model years? (Last I checked in November, 2015, Consumer Reports was predicting the 2015 Edge would be below average quality as they didn't have enough data points yet). But I'd have to check/see their latest info (if they have it, but I'm not spending the $7 to see that they don't have it yet). The MSN article doesn't state which model year, just that it's a Ford Edge SEL with an overall score of 76 (based on what?)

Great, thank you both so much!

dumb question, but if leasing, why would you put any money down (trade-in/etc)? Other than what you have to (tax/title/etc)? Only asking as I was under the impression if you were leasing (vs. lease to own or purchasing), since you have to turn the car in at the end of 3 years (or whatever your lease is), you've "lost" whatever you paid down on it (it's not like you own it or anything). Kinda like putting a down payment on an apartment to rent it or something?

If any of you own a 2016 Edge Titanium with 302A and driver's assist packages (or know what these are), can you help me out? I'm trying to build my comparison spreadsheet vs. my 2 other competitors. 1) Side mirrors do not power-fold or tilt down on reverse, correct? They're only power mirrors in the sense that the mirror itself can be manually adjusted via a knob/something inside the car? 2) Does the sunroof have a powershade? (I don't recall if the 2015 SEL I test drove had that feature). I'm guessing it does, given that it's a panoramic window, but would like to know for sure. 3) Is the liftgate (power option) height adjustable? 4) I could have sworn I saw this, but the Acoustic glass is on Windshield and the two front side windows, yes? Any other windows? 5) Are the HID (optional) lamps projector as well? (the website doesn't really say) 6) Is there a USB connectivity port to Sync3? 7) How many USB charging ports (if any) are there? 8) what are the "security approach" lamps for the side mirrors? I think that's it for now. Thanks!

Ford's website (Build your own) no longer lets you select AWD for the Ford Edge (2016) Titanium. FWD is your only choice. Did they suddenly stop making/allowing AWD? Was wondering why the price had suddenly dropped to around 43,500 for my configuration when previous perusals were around 45k ??

One would think a $40,000 vehicle would have a heated steering wheel. Guess what? Toyota Highlander does not. If you want heated seats AND heated steering wheel, you have to take their $45k (starting) Highlander and are forced to only get 2 seats in the 2nd row (captains chair). The 36-38k Subaru Forester doesn't even have blind spot detection (yeah, go figure). That's why I'm anal-retentive about my researching my new car. HIDs may be able to be added on after the fact? (I don't know) It is interesting to see the differences in manufacturer, or even model lines. (Nissan Maxima has heated steering wheel I believe, but the 36k rogue does not).

Depends on the model year. If you base "overall" on consumer reports and owner satisfaction, Kia and Hyundai rank "higher" than Ford. But again, specific model years (and some consecutive years) have issues. From what I can tell, for me, if I had to use info from a few months ago, the 2015 Ford Edge had way worse reliability than the 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport or 2016 Kia Sorento. But now that the 2016 Edge is out, I'm hoping Ford's managed to fix those issues. In the 2017 Hyundai, most of the changes are with the infotainment, and added things like all-around camera, lane departure warning, adaptive cruise, etc. But take 'em for a test drive. Everyone has their own list of priorities and what's important to them. I would suggest using a smartphone app for sound meter, and g-force to try to objective quantify noise levels and "ride smoothness". I'm just picky, but I don't want to make the same mistake I did with my '05 Equinox. So this go around, I'm doing spreadsheets and taking my time. Hopefully this November, I'll have a new vehicle, just not sure which one yet. My final 3 (unless Nissan fixes their infotainment, which is highly unlikely at this point), it'll be a close tie between the 2016 Edge, the 2017 Sorento, and the 2017 Santa Fe Sport. I think the 1st two are extremely closely matched (based on last year's test drive) on comfort and noise level, but I'm still digesting the price difference. If/when I can get updated test drives, I'll post back here with hopefully more detailed info.

Well I have not test drove the Edge 2016. No dealers in our area have had a Titanium AWD since September when I did look. I did test drive the 2015 SEL Edge AWD and did Test Drive the Santa Fe Sport 2.0 T Ultimate 2016. See my thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19100-hyunda-vs-ford-vs-subaru-vs/ Still waiting for any dealers (we have like 4 in the area) to get a 2016 Edge Titanium AWD turbo with the 302B tech package, but no go yet. I don't anticipate any drive difference in the 2015 vs 2016, but I would expect a little difference between the SEL and Titanium due to wheel size. Anyhoo: I'm waiting for the 2017 Hyunda Santa Fe Sport because it'll have Android Auto (not sure about Carplay) support, and a slew of other features (Hyundai did officially announce) which would put it more on par with the Edge, IMO. For me, the question ultimately is (assuming Ford fixed their QA issues in the 2016 Edge): Is $7,500 difference worth it? (Hyunda is about 7500 cheaper than the fully equipped Edge I'm looking at). Plus the Hyundai has a 10-year warranty (or you can factor that another $1500 will get you an extended warranty on the Edge, ,which then makes it closer to $9,000 more). Yeah, the ride is smoother, noise a *little* quieter, but at 9k, that's a big price difference, IMO. I'm also waiting for the 2017 Kia Sorento to come out (hoping the car show in NY in April will announce what it'll have). Assuming the Kia has android auto/carplay, that'll put it more on par with the Edge, and the pricing is almost the same but you get a better warranty.

IMO, the "best" companies for wiring harnesses are: Metra Axxess http://axxessinterfaces.com/ and PAC audio http://www.carid.com/

Yay! One of the many reasons I am waiting for the 2016 model. Although if the Kia Sorento had the same system as the Optima (which supports Carplay and AA), I'd take it. But I can wait a year and save up some money.

I downloaded a sound meter app for my Samsung Galaxy S4 (and also have a calibrated separate sound meter, and they both reported the same db levels, so the app is pretty accurate) to measure "loudness". I also have a g-force/accelerometer app to measure "roughness". That takes away the subjectivity, for the most part for noise/ride, IMO.

Not seeing the same issues on the 2015 Murano and the 2016 Sorento. So those must be able to cool adequately. At least on the 4 forums I've checked. I'd be a bit ticked off at spending 44k on a car that didn't do what it was ordered (ie: you pay for the option and it doesn't work). Hopefully 2016 model year they figure it out.

Wow. Unbelievable. Definitely waiting for 2016 model year. But it's also something to consider if the manufacturer is going to leave you in the wind like that.

So I've done a little (not extensive) research, and it seems that generally speaking: 1) If you lease, it makes no sense to pay anything down (other than what you're required such as tax, title, registration) 2) Negotiate the purchase price FIRST and then deal with the lease (don't walk in and say I wanna lease). Assuming the above 2 items are correct: If the intent was to lease the vehicle and then buy that same vehicle at lease end (my understanding, that would be whatever the Residual is): How do you know if you're getting the "best" deal? How does (if any) a trade in affect this? (do you do that before, so you say: X price, less my trade in. Now let's decide if lease/purchase). My limited understanding is that you'd walk in, and negotiate a price (let's pretend $40k for a fully equipped Edge Titanium, AWD, Turbo, 302b and Driver's assist-MSRP is like 44.5k). No money down. Then any trade-ins. My understanding is that there is the Money factor (MF), essentially the "interest" rate. Has anyone negotiated a 0% MF? (I can get 0% financing, my FICO is 810). A real 0% (MF 0.0000) Cap Cost = negotiated price Cap cost reduction = any monies paid, trade-ins/incentives/rebates Adjusted Cap Cost = Cap cost - reductions. This is what they use to calculate your payments Supposedly somewhere in the lease it would give you the Residual Value, and the total of all payments (say, 36 month lease = X /month, plus the MF rates). This supposedly should equal what the negotiated (cap cost) value is? (well maybe a smidgen more depending upon interest rate)? I'm sorta asking because one of the local dealers had an ad in the paper listing an Edge SEL (not that I would take that trim) and listed the monthly payment, MSRP, and then listed total of payments, and the residual. $0 down. I THINK the MSRP was like 33k (or somewhere around there) and when you took the "total of payments" and added the residual, the total was like $30k or something, which I thought wasn't "too bad".

Thanks for the followup! I've only ever leased a vehicle once, and there was no body issues, although the back of the front driver's seat had some minor marks on it (not tears/rips or permanent marker, it was something had moved and rubbed against it).

Take with a large grain of salt (I'm guessing about 50% of the people probably didn't read, or may have misinterpreted the items covered): http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/ford-premium-esp-extended-warranty-c237731.html I'm not sure how accurate the "date of service" falls in (probably more of an issue if you buy it after the fact). Although I vaguely recall someone mentioning they bought a demo unit off the floor from a dealer (don't recall if it was a Ford or Hyundai or what) and that the warranty was NOT starting at when you bought it, but at the date the vehicle was placed in service. As an example, there's a complaint about Carchex (not as many as the ESP) someone had about the engine heads (I have no idea what that is), and that they were only covered for the internally lubricated parts, (whereas someone like me would hear "head gasket" or "blown heads" and assume it would be covered). Basically, go for the 30-days and read read read the contract very carefully. Doesn't matter what anyone tells you (verbal cannot override written contract). Pay attention to the paperwork. And hopefully you don't ever need to use it! But it's good to know that you can shop around for the Ford plan (I did not know that you could buy it elsewhere). That's very useful information!

You're probably correct. It's also probably a good idea to read the list of excluded items. Not sure how accurate this is (read down towards the bottom of the first page): http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7715 I take note of the water leaks, on the exterior. Again, the actual Ford website or contract (my understanding is you get 30 days to request a refund) will probably be more exact/precise.

I had Goggled the Ford plans - Ford Protect (ESP or something), and there seemed to be a rather large amount of complaints about Ford not living up to the contracts. How much of those were true, I don't know. I've only ever purchased 2 extended warranties. One for a Ford ('99 Ford Escort Wagon) through a company (forgot the name, it was a long time ago) that had a 100% refund policy if you never used it. Of course, they filed for bankruptcy at the last year of the warranty. My current/other one was through Carchex (their ratings checked out with what I felt were minor complaints). It was expensive, but I didn't buy it until 2011 (6 years after the vehicle was purchased--and it's for my 2005 Equinox which is probably one of the more problematic vehicles in its class for that year). $2200 for 5/year 60,000 miles. Ultimate package, $100 deductible. Covered seals/gaskets and some wear and tear (they paid for my struts a few months ago). Never had a problem with them denying a claim or having to send out an inspector.

The guy up the road has an Edge with MFT and hates it. Has had it lock/freeze up several times and will be getting something else when his lease is up. My Uncle had an early one with MFT and had the same thing. Although from what I've read, most people have had the issues resolved with the latest firmware/update. But since Ford says they're only committing to 5 years worth of updates for MFT, I don't want to buy a 2015, especially when I'm going to keep it significantly longer. Sync3 supposedly will bring Carplay/Android Auto, but it's not been 100% confirmed. Unfortunately for the Titatnium AWD Trim with Driver's assist that I want, NOBODY in my area has any in stock at all. Friends and whatever discount won't do me any good. The 2 dealers (actually there's like 4 or 5 in the area, but only 2 have ordered the Titaniums) have had Titaniums on order for going on 3 months now (keeps getting pushed back due to Quality issues at Ford). Given that, and what Truecar reports, I can probably get the same pricing later, but I'm definteily waiting for 2016 model year and even then, probably next November, should have about 6 months of "reliability" reports to come back. I can actually wait 2-3 more years and may buy used. Or I may end up with a Kia Sorento. I really like the Edge interior styling (except on the SEL model where they put the stupid console controls all the way to the bottom where the shifter knob is in the way--I can't test drive the Titanium, so I don't know what it looks like other than pictures). Really like the exterior styling (other than the funky sculpting on the hood). Thought it was very nice and quiet, but then again wasnt' on 19" wheels either. Lucky for me I don't have to get anything now. (watch my car blow up on the way home now). But I'd really like to be able to nail down my "dream" car (if such a beast exists). On the plus side, this gives me time to save up more money for it!!! I kinda look at car deals like timeshare "deals". You know, the ones that "disappear" when you walk out the door? They'll always be there, maybe not advertised, maybe you have to haggle more, but I'm pretty sure you can get it for the same price you originally negotiated, maybe even less when you're ready. Good luck!!

Depends on which Nissan you're looking at. The 2016 Murano CVT is fine (from what I can tell), although 2 or 3 people have posted a rather bizarre issue where it "jerks", but apparently fixed with some sort of computer reprogramming. If I remember correctly, it was the 2012 or 2013 Murano CVT that had some pretty bad issues and a 2009 something from Nissan (maybe it was the Murano as well with water leak issues?). Again, specific models can have issues that are later fixed. Go to carcomplaints.com or Consumer Reports and you can see what I mean. I *think* the 2016 Murano was predicted reliability, but I could be wrong on that (will have to check consumer reports site again). I personally found the CVT in the Murano to be the best of the 3 that I test drove. The other 2 were Subaru forest and Outback 2.5i Limited. Not that any of them were bad/anemic, just that the Subaru's were LOUD. 85db on my sound meter for the Outback. Murano cabin got maybe 74 or 75 db. Noticed a "little" engine noise if I stomped on the gas at low speeds. But I did not test drive the Rogue or any other Nissan.

Cooled seats that don't cool and actually heat up? The issues where the vehicle just stops/shuts down?