garycrist

Hey thanks @Haz, it was schematics like you provide that allowed me to find a power transistor that always failed on Cadillac DFI of the mid to late 70's! I fixed the computers for $2 transistor and resold them for $350 or $375 installed!

I will bet it will never open as manufacturing will be moved to Mexico.

YUP, the wife has already done the "bone glue" route and I already don't like the L4-L3 but, I'm still going! If you try ST seats, they will be difficult to get in and out of. Once in, they will be GREAT! One trick though, is to drop them all the way back and down, to make it "easier" to get out. I have wondered if I could adapt some retractable running boards on the ST. That would be a dream come true for both my wife and me.

Ford seats have been #1 in comfortability in most tests. I have an '08 Limited w/ leather seats. I "feel your pain" as I've had 1-L5 X 2 and the last a 360 from L4, L5, S1. Look around for a Edge Limited about your year on used car lots. Go try the seats. If you find them comfortable, find some used ones hopefully close to your location. The side bolsters are not as pronounced as the cloth ones.

What did I do today? Well it took me 2 days to do what you guys can do in no time. I washed them and dried them off. At least one is black and one is sand-white. The black ST has Ceramic Pro and I've never seen an easier way to wash it. I dry it with a drying towel. Gone are the days of chamois and wringers! With the coating, if the St is not too dirty, I can do an almost water less wash in about 30 minutes, excluding the wheels. The white one, a lot longer, as it needs a clay-bar, buff and wax! But,for over 210K miles, it looks pretty!

If one loves their Edge long enough and the Sun beats down long enough the rubber gasket starts to rot. Once rotted the air leaks from the cabin and wind noise ensues. If the deteriorated rubber is removed the window will rattle and is not secure. A simple fix is to remove the rubber from the perimeter, starting at the back rear of the passenger's rear wing -glass. Remove the rubber from the bottom to the top, then around the corner, ending at the back top of the window post. Take a piece of 7/32 in vacuum line and stuff it into the channel from the bottom to the top and around the top corner, ending behind the top of the back of the window channel.

It was just like at Ebay. Blue anodized strut tower connectors that will attach to the strut tower. The cross-bar that will be attached to the braces with a chromed bolt,washer,lock-washer and nut. The cross-bar is polished bright Al. Wife is at relatives today showing off my detail work. It is easy a ever to wash with the ceramic coating we did when we bought it. So next week some time I'll get one of them Round Tuits. Also a wind noise reduction post for older Edges.

I will bet none of them have ever ground "hot spots" out of a brake drum. Nor, have they ever seen a drum so bad with "spots" they had to be thrown away. Now a lot of aftermarket flywheels have a replaceable or harden areas where the friction material contacts. Some have (flywheels) have grooves (like brake rotors) to get rid if the out-gassing and prevent micro-welding or metal smearing. I have used flywheels as they can represent one of the most extremes as are brake drums. Those grooves in the rotor as well as hot-spots in drum brakes are analogous to "flat-spots" in a tire! Once one puts a flat spot in a tire, no matter the size, every time a lock-up or near lock-up occurs it will almost always hit the flat-spot thus exacerbating the problem. Lastly there just "ain't no space tween that rotor and brake pad"!

Good luck on your "New Edge" may it run for another 100K! Our 2008 Limited is going on 210K and still running but only 20K on our "New Baby" a 22 Edge ST.

It starts from "hard spots" in the pads. It is from the mixture of materials in the pad material before it is formed and fired or baked. The pad is not homogeneous, but a mixture for an example, steel wool, copper bits for heat extraction a bonding agent baked then glued or riveted to the steel backing plate. As the pads apply, heat is generated in the of a rotor. Cooling differences, will lead to "hot spots" that change the surface hardness in a particular spot leading to irregular wear patterns.

I just bought one for my 2022 ST from Canfield on EBAY. Tell them what year ans details. It will take a couple of weeks before it arrives from China via Hong Kong. You will need 4 extra bolts , washers and lock-washers. They are metric. When the parts store opens Monday, I'll go said parts! It looks like the passenger side looks to be the funnest, so I'll start there 1st. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=kf1386&store_name=carfieldenterprisestrutbar&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211

All I meant was I turned off the car and restarted it!

I had mine glitch too. I did a <Ctrl> <Alt> <Delete> on my Sync.😉 I restarted the ST...

Probably "Chocolate Milk-Shake Syndrome" like the "China Syndrome" only, it's the engine melt down. It's probably the water pump. Pull the oil cap on look for the signs. Is the coolant level up? What is the oil level too? Do all of that before you do anything. Be prepared for a divorce of either Edge or $$$$.

I am getting ready for my 2022 Edge ST AWD 20K service. I was looking for the dip-stick but I can't find it? I believe this is it but, it looks like a vent. Is this it? This is peering down with radiator shield at the bottom, Air-box top right, looking at top of the tranny.

Adding to the topic, I see a member who has no heat below 2K RPM. Back in the early 80's I took to learning all I could about the 5.7L GM diesels. I even learned how to rebuild Rosa pumps or the high pressure pump and 8 spider legs. The shop behind me specialized in replacing those diesel engines with gasoline motors. He had a pile of engines and he gave me all I wanted! But, back to the heating issue. I would have clients call and tell me their heaters quit working but, they ignored it because the A/C was needed but, now that it's getting cold, bla bla bla. I told them they would need head gaskets and it would run $XXX. The next obvious question would be as you know, is "Well how in the hell would YOU KNOW as you haven't even looked at the car yet"!!! Usually they would call back stating they took it somewhere else and wanted so much more bla bla bla.🤣 The neat thing about the 5.7 diesel was the 1980 X block. It had the big main bearing journals, but most importantly, it could be bored .250 inch. Warren Johnson Pro Stock, used those blocks in his big cubic inch Thumpers. AHHH the fun! By mixing and matching different parts, the late model heads, cam etc. I built a monster diesel motor for my Dad. We put that into a Burgundy Olds 98 with crushed velvet seats. What a living room. You could do burn-out with the thing! On a run from Albuquerque to Oklahoma City cruising about 85 he got 27 MPG!

There sure is a lot of smart as well as helpful people here too. What are you going to buy?

The funniest part of the muscle cars of the 60's and 70's is they didn't stop, could not corner worth a diddly, brakes were for the faint of heart and only an AM radio. Now one may play tunes in a climate controlled environment with heated/cooled seats and outrun most of those fast cars of the day, all in our STs.

210K miles on my '08 Edge, it still has the original belts, hoses,starter and alternator and running strong. I believe the newer starters use permanent magnets rather than field windings.

The funnies things during that time, was run-on. Shut the key off, go inside and eat come back out and the car was still running. I guess it was one of those FREE options. At least it cut down on starter replacement. When I moved to Cali one could not De-carbon them like we used to. I once had a big block Ford that ran-on no matter what I did. I even set the idle down to about 400ish RPM. It would still run-on, with the best solution to shut it down in Drive, most of the time!

Fist look at the car battery. A simple red wire attached to the + terminal. (EASY) Next pull the fuse cover above your left knee. Give a peek to see if there is a device there. It will be piggy-backed to the OBD2 port. While you are there, take a flashlight and inspect the OBD2 port for an extra small wire that looks out of place. If you find a small encased wire set coming from the OBD2 port trace it to a tracker. Let me know if you need more.... Gary

I have been a Ford guy since my 1st. car a burgundy 63, I've been hooked. When I worked at a L/M dealer in the mid 70's when all of the glob-on emission were added. Gas mileage became terrible, especially in 385 series engines or 429s and 460s. Part of the "Ford approved service procedure" aka. warranty. (I get paid) was to put on a 1/10 gallon glass jug that attached to the driver's rolled down window and the window channel. I twisted a valve and it filled up the container to a measured mark. It went to the carb and when that jug went empty the car died. What a terrible job, driving in an air-conditioned Lincoln during the Summer! From that experience I have always beat everyone in their own vehicle on gas mileage. Oh yes, back to the big blocks. As we were out in the country, we would take them out and pour 1/2 to 1 gallon of ATF through the carb to de-carbon them. What a cloud it would make, even better that a C-4 modulator rupturing! After driving them around for a bit, they would clear up and not ping so bad with the crummy fuel we had back the,

3d. Party BOA. Used. The dealers now use these devices to track the customers. Only the GPS markers and cellphone bursts. None were connected to kill the car. The excuse is for oil-change reminders and a litany of other excuses. One was Lojack the other was IKON Technologies. They tried to up me by $5600 over the leader price! 🤣 The Lojack wiring was fresh and the box had no dust it was connected directly to the battery with only the hot and ground. The IKON was plugged into the OBD2 port with a jumper wire into the dash. None of the extra functions were hooked-up thus some of the wires were clipped to the Lojack. I believe the IKON is only powered by the OBD2 port. I worked in dealerships for years. I've seen many a trick these guys do. Most of them will lie, cheat and even rape their mothers for a sale. The odds are with them too for the most part! IIRC the average buyer only visits less than 2 dealers for a purchase! It was WE IN THE BACK that received holy hell because the vehicle did not do what the salesman said. https://ikontechnologies.com/

Also, coke the turbos! Even my wife lets it idle for 2 minutes to cool down and un-spool the turbos.

It would show a <CHECK PARKING AID>. Then we would reset.