garycrist

Also the backing plates for the PP open in the front pulling cooling air into the inside of the rotor exiting the top. The other as stated above, pulls cooling air at the top of the rotor and expelling hot air out the bottom and out to the rear opening of the backing plate. Otherwise the rotors are the same.

I misread 303 instead of 302. So, I instead mean #2 hole.

It could be a leaky injector leaking down after it sits. If vacuum accessories, how are the vacuum lines? What did # 3 plug look like as compared to the others? Any coolant loss? If the PCV dumps into the #3 area of the intake mannifold, then it could be carbon on the intake valve/s. If it does it a lot, after shutting down the car for the night, remove the coolant tank cap to relieve the pressure on the system. If that stops the 303 on start-up, then it's head/head gasket/engine time. Gl 73

As for power of a 4 cyl. engine, I seem to remember an Offy 4 @ 2.6L making 750+ HP. SPEED Horse Power costs money. Made in China is a deal breaker. Any way, they are built for the Chinese market with the US as secondary... I wonder what spyware in the OS, is given to the user for free!

Let me qualify 1st. I have never done one of those but, I've done SOHC as well as DOHC since 1972. If the tensioner is all the way retracted, drop the chain from the bottom sprocket and rotate 1 tooth by hand. If you have to, rotate the engine by hand clock wise to get some slack from the right side to drop the chain. It is best done with the spark plugs removed too!

@kruzr1, If cars were as dependable as stated by the manufacturer, then a warranty would not be needed. Most mechanics/technicians would be out of a job and who would need expensive systems just to figure what might be repaired. Speaking of computers and their dependability, as you might know, there was a global computer-internet break-down today 7/19/2024. As you know, just 1 bad input that is not in the "Look-up Table" or conflicts in the interrupts will throw a code and possibly a CEL, or Wrench code etc..

Keep enjoying and don't worry 'bout it! If it happens, just turn it off wait a little bit and refire your beauty! These things are just like one's computer. Just rebooting solves a lot of problems.

In doing a lot of reading , it appears there are 3 different rotors for the front, as well as 2 different backing plates. The rear has only 2 choices vented and non-vented. The front options, all the same diameter, have; 1. Non-vented 2. Vented (standard) pulls air at the top of the rotor and hot air and exits the bottom, with a rear exit backing plate. 3. Vented that pulls air in from the inside bottom of the rotor, with an exit at the top with front opening backing plate and red calipers.

I lifted this from a different site. https://vehq.com/ford-power-steering-assist-fault-guide/ Your steering wheel starts to nibble on its own. The term "nibble" refers to the shaking of your steering wheel. If you notice your steering wheel does this, there might be a problem with your wheel alignment. If your steering wheel still shakes after alignment, then it is a possible EPAS fault. There could be a problem with the steering angle sensor, which is also manifested by either the traction control or the engine light turning on. The nibbling in EPAS-related problems usually happens when your car cruises at low speed.

With this new electronic "owner's manual" I have searched it and can't find any reference to what fluids go in the PTU or the RDU! So, I have the same questions. What fluid/s go into a 2022 Edge ST PTU and RDU?

Thank you for the MACT video! I understand why the PTU as well as the RDU life spans may be shortened. Just like automatic transmissions under load, the more they shift, the more HEAT they make and the quicker they grenade!

May it live a long trouble-free life!

Yes it sprays if not clogged up. Also check to see if washer fluid dribbles out the front right behind the tire. If not leak by the tire, take a fine piece of wire and try to unclog the sprayer. Gl 73

I have heard about actuating the ABS by doing lock-ups on gravel roads.. GL

If I understand correctly, you removed the terminal from the battery while the vehicle was running? If so that is not the safest thing to do, especially with all of the electrics in the cars of today! Back EMF pulse and the strain on the triple diodes in the alternator and other components, lets all of the invisible smoke out.

@Davidoo I know you did not forget about Jeep and it's Quarda trac system. Boy, that additive smelled like beets and stunk!

Look for how to bleed a power steering system. Your problem arises from air in the system. The older systems with hose clamps on the return or low pressure side were notorious in allowing air to get sucked in with no fluid leaks. On occasions a vacuum is used to help draw air out of the system.. GL

I did my 1st. transmission service using Valvoline ULV. It is a real easy job to do on our 2022 Edge ST. There is a short write-up in the Lounge. A 1st. timer should take less than 1 hour to do, saving one a couple hundred bucks. A BIG THANK YOU to @Haz for the help with the Ford pics too. The fill port is now at the front of the transmission, rather that the middle, with the neat "funnel holder".

As of today 7/7/2024 NAPA online $6.49 for Vavoline ULV, pick-up. Get some while it's cheap.

When servicing the transmission take these steps and save $$$$s. Easy as pie but, things have changed from prior models. Tools needed; Common screw driver 8mm or 7 mm socket, 14mm socket, 10mm hex (Allen Key) 6 quarts of ULV Mercon I used Vavoline pliers to remove clamp for the fill port . The trick to get cheaper transmission fluid was to order it online from O'Riley's and pick it up! That saves $$$s. 1. ST up to operating temp. 2. Remove Air Box 3. Remove lower cover under transmission. 4. Use 14 MM socket to drain transmission. DO NOT REMOVE 10 mm ALLEN PLUG TILL FLUID IS DRAINED! Otherwise a flood of fluid is yours to clean-up. 5. After fluid is drained remove 10MM Allen plug and reinstall 14MM drain plug. 6. With vehicle level, add 3 quarts of fluid and start ST. 7. Add 2 more quarts and shift into all gears several times. 8. Add last quart with drain pan under the 14MM plug. As the St warms up fluid will leak out till full @ 185 degrees of fluid temp. Once the flow slows down reinstall 10MM plug WITH ENGINE RUNNING!!! If you turn off the engine while the 10MM plug is out, a flood of fluid will gush out requiring MORE transmission fluid. Put it back together and smile.

Could it be that Ford builds quiet a few autos and trucks and at 5 or 6 quarts of oil per build, semi would save them X amount of money. They are for THEIR pocket book not yours.

Did you replace the receiver/dryer and the orifice? What are the high side low side pressures?

After watching Lake Speed on Vavoline's Restore and Protect and it's ability to clean the insides, I an going to try it. My only reservation is Low Speed Preignation (LSPI).

I've seen a lot of "Door Ajar" problems. I ran across a quick fix (?) for a few $$$s. As usual GOOD LUCK!

The body would have to be a "good" ground as all of the electrical components inside the vehicle. Old VWs had a strap ground under the rear seat to the body. As a side note on grounds, I powder-coated the alternator holder for my Fox Mustang. Upon re-installation, the output was very low! The solution as one might suspect, was a ground strap the the alternator. Lesson learned, now I tape over the ground points and bolt holes when powder-coating.