garycrist

Nice job!

CEL= Check engine Light or your "Wrench" icon. I dug up a video. I don't know if it helps. That is why the tranny questions. I have 210K on my 08 Edge with no problems. https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0715-ford-edge/

Way to go @Hodgie! Hopefully your work and the details you have provided, will save others time and money!

@TourGuide, That's normal. An Easter-egg for free from Ford and the E.P.A.

What color is the transmission fluid? When was it changed, if ever and mileage of the Edge too? Does it shift right? Did the CEL ever go out after the parts replacement? Do you have rodent problem, as those little critters love to eat automotive wiring?

Ha ha ha @TuxedoBoost, 5 days huh? Well I have you beat! Mine was the 2nd. day as the wife experienced the "Lane Correction Shake" of the steering wheel and ran STRAIGHT into the curb. 2 tires were shredded and the rims were bent to hell. I took the wheels to a repair shop and one can't tell there was a problem. Find a pro wheel shop as they have the right stuff. GL 73

@Ctakacs9 After the repair let everyone know of the results if possible. GL 73

WTG @Hodgie on your fix. Your reply may help someone in the future! Thanks from them too.

The problem with our Edges is they have a big low pressure area behind us as we drive. I've thought about a rear air diffuser possibly helping keep the camera cleaner.

Way to go @Meteor! Thank you for the follow-up for the next person!

What a bummer!

And I got worried when they took the "Tiller " out.😉

After going through this whole thread again, I must say a couple pf things. 1. A few % of fuel saving by reducing the life of the turbos and maybe a starter. 2 Most importantly. Keep away from the negative battery terminal with jumper cables. Hook up the positive cable 1st. to the battery!! Then one may hook up the negative to (I prefer the engine) the shock tower as noted above. Disconnection is reverse of the above or the NEGATIVE 1st. The reason for the turbos and my concern, is that they are sitting there still spinning their little hearts out with no oil. Even if they are stopped, they are heat-soaking and coking the residual oil. You make the call.... GL 73

Did you put a"New Battery" in the fob or in the vehicle?

Pretty Blue!!

Dear @TobyJ66 Who cares what motor it has? It is a mental block for you and I have lived through it too! Break it down into separate jobs ie. R&R Fan or A/C condenser. For the most part from the front end of the engine forward, is all the same condenser, radiator, shroud /fan assembly. YOU CAN DO IT! It is just drawn out job with plenty of "Holding your mouth just right" sometimes.

Sometimes the relay will not work correctly all of the time. If the relay is intermittent, then this will solve your problem cheaply, as there is no easy way for most to test it other than substitution. As a side note, I always had extra switches, relays in one drawer of my tool box just for this kind of problem.

It could be an A/C compressor relay.. Give this video a spin to win? GL Gary

I would put the Fiaam air horns on. I had the dual airs on my Kawasaki LTD 1000. I do not know how many AMPS the horn circuit will pass so a relay might be needed. Anywhere it is mounted, it WILL BE HEARD! Also those are the same type of horn found on Alphas,Ferrari Fiat. Mount the horns pointing down to keep water out of the trumpets too. As a side note, those horns were too loud for New York. So, we had to install a "City Horn" like the single found on our Edges!

I hate to tell you it was coincidental. IT IS NOT THEIR FAULT. When was the coolant last checked or a full service done? GL Gary

@bwguardian These automobiles have a critical charge and just a little more and a top-off can have disastrous results. A little less is "way mo better" than too much. The old "Ford System Performance Test" (I enjoyed that in the summer in Kansas) was to run car @2500 RPM, Recirculate/Max, and fan on high center register. System %100 if air temp is 40 F. That would be about 28- 30 PSI. R-134 and R12 have about the same specs too as the pressures (temps) are about the same. From what you said above if you did not splatter the compressor (too much liquid) then the orifice is OK. 90 degree day high side was OK, low side less than 28 system will cut-off (temp is less than freezing liquid may return to compressor).

If a vacuum leak develops between the manifold and brake booster or a rupture of the Brake Booster Diaphragm, will cause a rough idle. Bleeding the brakes will have not solve a "Hard Pedal".

Just found out a little trick when comparing plans. Most strip all of the goodies and add them back. So make sure you get the rest; This is from my guy. "No worries. Just need to be sure comparable plans are being offered All of my prices include 1st day rental Key Service Enhanced Rental Lighting They strip out all the options and make you add them back."

Not only must Automatic Updates be checked but, just below that section one must also enable the schedule tick just below it too.

Tricky, tricky, tricky. Airplane props on a ST!😉