Tjm623

After releasing the tab, I found it easier to then use the thinnest smallest eyeglasses type screwdriver and slide in and up over the top edge of puddle light and use it like a crowbar slowly working around like opening a can. Mine didn't just pop out with the tab released they were pretty tight in there. This method made it so much easier to pop them out

Good call, I don't so I was not thinking about those. In that case my theory won't work.

Both good options too, I've seen another ford cluster that displays fuel inside of a full tach. Even if they left the two screen design, make the display with full tach have more info. Make it bigger, and that would allow more to be displayed inside. I looked this morning on way to work and it does seem to have a lot of wasted "whitespace"

You can still get next turn info from right screen under navigation. I usually leave instant mileage up, that gives me just about everything including: vertical tach, fuel gauge, DTE and current fuel mileage. Seems like a decent amount to me. Occasionally I'll check the trip odometer or go into sport which switches me to round tach. Right side is good too, audio provides enough info and ability to switch things that if I have nav up, I don't need to switch sync3 screen to change anything, phone allows me to call recent calls (which I only call a few people and they are almost always on that last). Nav menu either shows next turn or a full size compass with current road and speed limit depending on if route is active. I added a 4th menu called "climate". I can either change temp or fan speed if it's not in auto or dual. If it's in dual it controls driver side, and if in auto and I switch fan speed I have to go back to big screen or physical button to go back into auto. That right screen controls and gives me steering wheel control 4 out of 6? Big screen menus. That's pretty good to me. I do wish you could leave round tach up and have fuel info at same time, I'm not the biggest fan of the vertical tach, it's takes a minute to process for some reason and the red line is hard to see for me at times.

I've never wrapped anything in vinyl, I'm sure others haven't either. Grabbing a can and taping stuff off may seem like a much easier alternative.

I can't really explain the whole process as honestly if you can't find how to use the software via the site and some Google. You shouldn't be messing with a $30k+ vehicle's computer systems. But if you can figure out that portion feel free to PM me or I'm sure jmr would do it too as this is his thread and he stated he'd be willing to help/provide the code needed

I figured, which is why I posted a site that shows high grade 87

This made me sad lol So much hope for the guy on post 3. Hurray! His street is on GPS now. Post 4, little less hope, but still a possibility. Post 5: dreams shattered, fist shaking at the street naming gods for naming three streets in same area the same. Maybe one day, maybe one day...

I believe there's a website where you can track the status much like a package using your vin number

I'd start with checking here http://www.toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/ If the 87 you are using is not from one of these retailers, start getting it from one that is. Then try 91 or 93 after a few tanks of better 87. I never cared before I had a truck. Cheapo gas stations 87 grade would consistently give me 2-3 mpg less than 87 grade gas at a station that is top tier.

I don't think there is a question of whether clear coated auto body paint is going to look better than a few $10 cans of rattle can paint. With that said, it's his car and regardless of if you like the look of dip, his execution does look flawless. I just don't get the reason why people on here comment on something and say "meh, that looks ok...had you spent 10x as much it would have looked better". I think everyone would agree yes spending more money on something is probably going to make it look more OEM. I'm not gonna sink thousands after thousands into a vehicle that in three years is worth half of what I paid. If anything I applaud the guy for A. Modifying the vehicle himself, B. Doing it economically. I personally find the grille to look pretty nice and like I said flawless execution. I've been on many a car forum, this one seems to take the cake with people who just post to say you should spend more money and do it my way. Just let people mod how the want and either say you like it or not!

I'm telling you, before sandpaper and rubbing compound, go get a Mothers claybar Kit from local auto part shop. It has a little piece of clay some detailing spray to use as a lubricant and a little thing of wax with an applicator of for around $20. It is so much easier to not screw up your paint trying this first will get anything (including oxidation, orange peel whatever) out of your clear coat. While fine grit sandpaper and rubbing compound would work...they can easily cause you to make the situation worse if you've never used them. As long as you don't go dropping the clay on the driveway prior to using it, it is pretty forgiving.

Paint quality is great on my '16 tri-platinum white. The only thing I've noticed is how dirty insides of bottom of doors were after a month. I'm shuddered to think once salt is in the mix at what's down the road as far as rust in these spots. It's right where the door panel is folded over too. I cleaned them up with soapy water and sprayed them with fluid film. Should do the trick.

I'd try a claybar before the rubbing compound. Both would only work if scratch is in clear coat. But I've gotten many a scratch out that I thought I was done for on with a little elbow grease and a claybar. I rolled into a mailbox once (not my finest hour) and thought for sure the scratch was deep, claybar took it right out. I believe rubbing compound is same premise but a bit harsher if done incorrectly

What are you using?

Sorry I posted not realizing your links had video Clips (I had just woken up). Definitely doesn't seem to be a software issue. I am interested to hear if you figure out a fix / find a better brand. I want a set of these

Yes

I believe you could get this to work by reprogramming the module that stores turn signal indicator lamp functionality (IPC?, maybe BCM). And disabling the bulb out notification. Though that's not the actual issue i believe it's what causes the hyper flash. I think jmr061 has done this on his '16

Can confirm these work he helped me this weekend. I was trying codes I found for 2015-2016 f150s and the only one I could get to work on its own was heated seats on sync 3, disabling double honk, and driver door adjar beeping. He helped me square away global close(including setting on left side of instrument under vehicle to shut it off, similar to "remote open" option. As well as climate control in instrument panel. I searched everywhere and while there seems to be forums / discussions on these codes elsewhere (mainly f150) I couldn't find anything edge specific. Would not have been able to do this without jmr061's help. Sidenote: if you are trying to test some codes I am more than happy to use my wife's 2017 escape as a test dummy. I know it's not an explorer but I was able to get a few things to "half-work" using f150 codes on hers as well.

I'd just get used to how this car is vs your old one. My wife's old Hyundai was flipped from my ford and while I never got used to it, I certainly wouldn't go through the hassle of trying to flip steering wheel control wiring

Do you reset this when you fill up? I always reset this and trip 1 on each fill up. Otherwise that average is from the last time you reset it which could have a lot of bad tanks depending on how you drive

I think a train horn would have been better.

I'm going to have them look at the rear passenger door when go in for an oil change. It definitely is not sitting correctly, I think a lot of the noise is coming from that. And the top near the open side I can see the paint from through a crack in the door

They could have gone with a horn chirp, or just flash the lights

Not sure, too busy overthinking things