1004ron

Sorry about that, its a deficiency that seems to plague this forum quite often, and the reason why we promote using the signature line for it instead. It's going to be quite difficult for you to describe the sound/noise, making it even more difficult for any of us to know what it is - you could try taking a video to capture the sound.

The sound you describe is not what I'd expect from a clock spring. Where does this mechanic work? Please consider adding M/Y and location to your signature using below link. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/

What model and year? Please consider adding this detail with location to your signature using below link. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/

What brand of fan/controller assemblies?

That's my understanding, but keen to hear IcyFridge explanation.

Good question - I'd also like to hear some kind of technical explanation for that, ........might start doing that myself (when the wife's not in the car) if it sounds plausible.

Welcome. Please consider adding your location, model and year to your signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Welcome. Please consider adding your location, model and year to your signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Aren't you able to follow the existing cable to find where it attaches to the chassis? It's is typically a very short run from the Battery Negative terminal to the Chassis/Ground.

If you do a forum search you'll find many existing threads on this subject. What brand of fans and module did you install?

I've got a fair size stock of Mobil 1 that I buy when Costco runs the specials on the 6 qrt packs, and pleased to see it meets that spec. Not to forget the Mobil 1 mail in rebates that I get every year for the past 5 years. https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-5w30

The answer to your question is in this thread and in the post directly above yours !!!!

That bold part doesn't make sense - could be a typo? If it does NOT overheat when at speed and only overheats when stationary or moving slow, then its the cooling fans. The common problem which a forum search will reveal requires the replacement of the fans and their controller, and only the OEM (Motorcraft) part is a reliable replacement. Please add you location and vehicle model/year to your signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Yes, taking it to a local mechanic for a diagnosis would be more practical than expecting someone on here could get a feel for what you're describing, and based on that you can decide on taking it to a dealership, but the local mechanics report wont help for warranty claims that could arise down the road.

Isn't it still under warranty? If so, best get it booked in and a job card opened clearly describing the symptoms and concerns, even if they claim nothing wrong, at least you'll have a record if something does go wrong some time later.

Did you mistakenly post this in the wrong thread - I'm not seeing the relevance to this thread, but maybe I'm missing something and you could explain.

I have quick connectors on my three vehicles and connect them to battery tenders if they're going to be parked for more than two weeks. My Harley is on the tender when its not riding season, and when we go on vacation whichever car we don't use for the road trip goes on the tender. Recently when I was tinkering with the Forscan and ignored the warning to start or shut down, I left it on the tender overnight. Some folks wont ever have the need.

There's far more of these engines on the road, and far less reports of oil pan leaks, so a clear indication that they have found a reliable solution, the one you mention above.

Sorry for the late update. I deleted the BT pairing on my phone and Sync 3, re-paired, and not had a "dial 0" since.

@Glassverd Are you still using the same inept shop?

Best to get an OBD2 scanner connected and read the live data.

I'm not familiar with this model or the wheels, but you should be able to tell if the old and new wheels are hub centric by the snug fit on the hub. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric

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Thanks. Most of this style jack stands are made in China and sold in the US under many different labels, so I would suggest that anyone using ones that look similar to the Pittsburgh ones, also inspect the welds carefully. I have seen a few with very poor welds and a friend of mine returned his based on poor welds.

From your first post I get the impression that you're not a DIY'er and that the service shop that you've been using are not suitably qualified and experienced, which leads me to question how you would use any technical suggestions that you may get here. Would you convey these suggestions to the same mechanic? The issues that you describe requires diagnostics using a scanner that can display live data and a mechanic or technician that can interpret that data - do you have a dealership or independent service shop near you with this capability?