1004ron

Please consider putting that detail in your profile signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I used one of these connectors which mate up to most battery tenders. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/?coliid=I2UEK9HVWRX39I&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Try a forum search and you'll find that contrary to the manufacturers suggestion that the PTU is lubricated for life, it certainly does need oil changes. You're at the mileage where you can expect that the oil has degraded to the point where the temperature will rise and start expelling oil. If you haven't yet, get the oil changed and see if things improve, but if not plan for the seal replacement, and while you're at it get a drain plug fitted. If your 60K mile power train warranty is still valid, get Ford to replace the seals.

Another personal preference, I don't buy from an eBay seller that has a few as 6 reviews, been an eBay seller for a short time and return policies like this one.

Personal preference, but I would go OEM for this type of thing. Ford Parts sales sites indicate the part number you posted above has been superseded. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/ford__/Tail-Light-Assembly/75138811/HT4Z13405G.html

What M/Y? - consider putting that in your profile signature line and save being asked again. Could it be that you're getting too close or approaching too rapidly and the anti-collision is cutting in, but if that's not it, yours is defective. What's your M/Y owners manual say?

What M/Y? - consider putting that in your profile signature line and save being asked again. My 2017 Sport does not behave like that. I always have the follow distance set at 1 bar, and when I put my foot on the gas the distance control deactivates, release the gas and the speed and adaptive/distance control go back to normal.

I don't see problems with the OEM rotors as far as them being "soft", and it would cost you nothing to test that conspiracy by using them until they approaching minimum thickness.

Welcome. The images suggest that some debris got lodged between the pads and rotor causing that scoring, very often happens to folks that frequently use dirt roads. At 18K miles the friction material on the pads must be greater that 60%. Brake parts have a very short warranty period and considered wear and tear items so give it more thought before taking it to the dealership and brace yourself for not getting them covered - you could send the images to the service manager and get his opinion and confirmation on the warranty cover.

Please post a link to this.

Places like AutoZone, if they're still open, will read the codes free of charge. It's possible but unlikely that plugs were installed with the incorrect gap, and the gap would have to be quite large to cause a misfire. Best post the video to YouTube - folks don't like having to download it, but rather watch it online. The noise doesn't sound like the engine internals. You're assuming its the spark plugs, when it could be the Evap solenoid or something like that - that's why the codes are a good starting point for a diagnostic approach.

If there's a sustained condition the light will stay on and a code stored - an intermittent will also store a code.

I suggest getting the stored error codes read.

Tried that, and doesn't work. This evening I tried it a few times with my phone in hand, and it did it dialled 0 each time.

It's been a long while and no recent Sync3 updates, and since yesterday my iPhone XR, which I've had for about a year, has been dialling zero each time I start the car. Will try this and report back.

Welcome. Not all dealerships are smart, and they probably don't know that the later models PTU's have a drain plug, and its not in the standard maintenance schedule. There's many reports on the forum confirming that dealerships have done the PTU oil changes.

That bold part - the risk of the wrench coming in contact with anything grounded while doing that step will have disastrous results, and the reason behind removing the negative first. I haven't done this on my Edge yet, but if at all possible I would try and shift the battery forward to allow access to the negative terminal.

Welcome and congrats on the new ride. Look forward to seeing the pics.

Best to add the vehicle detail to the signature in addition to the profile area below the avatar - some forum updates wipe out the info displayed below the avatar.

Welcome. Consider putting your rides detail in your signature - saves being asked in future posts.

Welcome. Is it FWD or AWD? - good idea to put that kind of detail in your profile to avoid getting the same questions in future. I can't think of anything linking the MAF to the vibrations, but using an OBDII live data scanner would likely shed more light on it, and why it runs better without the MAF plugged in.

None of the DropBox hosted images are showing - it would be great if you posted the images directly to the forum.

I haven't service mine for 3 years. I don't use it, but guess I should check it out and do the maintenance - do you have a link to the Ford moonroof maintenance that you mentioned?

Excellent pictorials.

If its the drive joints, they've got to get really bad, and loud, before they become unsafe to drive.