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1004ron

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Everything posted by 1004ron

  1. If it was mine, I'd use a mini butane torch and rosin core solder - spread the clamp crimp area, secure the copper cable in it, squeeze the crimp area onto the copper cable, then carefully heat with butane torch while applying the rosin core solder. Arrange the wring loom to give enough slack for the repaired connector to reach the battery terminal, secure everything and coat with Battery Terminal Protector.
  2. Do you have a link to this issue that you say is reported on multiple years and models - please post it here. What's actually happening with yours that leads you to believe that its your door latch causing the battery to drain?
  3. I don't have any experience with them, but they do look good and painted is better than the plated. Within a week the plated ones I installed were rusting - I painted all four with silver calliper paint and its still looking like the day I painted them months ago.
  4. The pulsation is caused by warped rotors and need a dial gauge to confirm. I replaced my front rotors at around 40K miles due to the pulsation/vibration when braking lightly at speed - if this is your symptoms then it points to the front rotors seeing as the brake proportioning would not be applying much to the rears at that time. The replacement front rotors cured my problem, but I went with drilled and slotted and would advise going with solid rotors because after about 9K miles they started making a growling noise at low speed braking. I git a warranty replacement of the drilled and slotted rotors and they still seem OK and have done more the 9K miles. I'm considering these if the noise and slight vibration returns. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JBDC8V/?coliid=IRA6T7CTOJ3KC&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  5. Best of luck and Ford Corp. will most often rely on the dealerships assessment, but not always. If Ford Corp. see the comment in the dust in the paint, it is unlikely that they'll authorize any work because as you state, that did not happen in the factory and Corp. will leave it to you and the selling dealership to fight out. Is it the selling dealership that you're dealing with now?
  6. ""How to carry keyless entry LARGE fob." - The one on the left in that photo, .......I carry with me in my right pants pocket - having difficulty understanding how or why that would be such a tough decision.
  7. Welcome. The 2.0 ecoboost does have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Please consider adding your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/
  8. Welcome. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/
  9. It uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor instead of a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. What's behind your thoughts that the MAF needs cleaning? - if it had one, it's best left alone seeing as the air that passes through it is clean/filtered. The MAP can get fouled by the oil and crud from the PCV, which a catch can can help avoid. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,f-150,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3308772,fuel+&+air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207
  10. Does that mean yours is also hissing after you replaced the booster and master cylinder? I doubt that you'll get a reply from the OP, his one and only post was back in January 2018.
  11. Personal opinion, the paint failures seen in that article are very different to what we see in this thread.
  12. Looking at the photos, I'm not surprised that warranty was refused - there's no way that it a latent factory defect. If an internet search revealed a few other owners with the same problem it could swing it just a little in your favor. If it were me, I'd install surveillance cameras. This photo looks to me like a chemical attack, and much like brake fluid does.
  13. Welcome. Please consider adding your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/
  14. It's hard to tell from the photos and description, but could this be vandalism, a brake fluid or other substance? The dealership and Ford Corp. must have offered a reason for rejecting warranty - what was that reason?
  15. I've never given other NAV option a try - maybe time I do a little research and experiment.
  16. Almost a year later and NA 1 19 is released. Think I'll skip this one and save the $109
  17. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/
  18. Please consider adding your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/
  19. I sure hope that you kept the original alternator. Many of the Auto shops do have the correct test equipment for CCA. If the battery tests good your current problem looks more like a bad reman alternator, but you should also do a search on how to perform a parasitic draw test - if your car stands for more than a couple of weeks you should look at getting a battery tender.
  20. Who did you buy it from? You say that at the time of purchase you noticed the condensation and the seller said that they would not fix it - that was the time to stand your ground and insist it be fixed, or walk away. You say you did some research - did that research include this forum? What method did you attempt to remove the moisture? It's still under warranty so call Ford Corp. and open a warranty claim with them, or try another dealership. The light bar not lighting up - not all the models do, what model do you have?
  21. Puzzled why you replaced the battery and alternator when all tests indicated they were good, and now have a suspect reman alternator. A thorough check of all connections and grounding straps is a good idea. A friendly tip, when asking for assistance like this mention everything you've done and tried and the results up front.
  22. Did you forget to mention the new battery? Did you install a new alternator or a "remanufactured" one - I ask because they are notoriously unreliable. Just changing parts out without any diagnostics might have cost you a few $'s unnecessary. Most places like Autozone will load test the battery and the alternator in the car. If you have a digital multimeter we could walk you through a few diagnostic tests.
  23. Congrats and welcome. Please consider adding your location and Vehicle Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/
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