1004ron

I've seen that one - it doesn't cover the install, but it does show that the harmonic balancer on this model isn't keyed.

Not sure if you tried the forum search feature. Note the comment about not hammering the balancer back on - it will damage the crank thrust bearings.

Restarting does not clear the stored codes. What code reader are you using? I ask because I had a slight stumble at idle a few times after filling up with gas and my previous code reader didn't show anything, then a long time after with a new code reader it showed there was an evap code stored. I no longer top-off when I gas up and the stumble has never occurred again and no error codes. As a check take it to Autozone and see if they read any codes.

1960 Anglia 1968 Cortina Mk II 1981 Cortina 3.0L XR6 1998 Sierra Current 2015 Mustang 3.7L V6 2017 Edge Sport

Welcome back. Please post pictures and consider adding location a Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Thanks for that, I wasn't aware that Forscan was available for other OS - paid the $6 and downloaded it on my Samsung tablet that I bought for the solely for use on my BMW motorcycle. I now have two uses for my only Android device.

I too have never seen the dashboard indication. I disconnect the sensor to get clearer access to the fill plug, and one time forgot to reconnect it so when I turned on the ignition I got an error code. Wonder if there's a way to access the temp reading with an OBDII device?

My 2017 Sport has the PTU temp sensor.

That's not what forums like this are about. Openly exchange ideas without personal attacks, but also being open to having your ideas challenged. "speaking the truth" - its not a truth issue - you expressed/presented an opinion, not a "truth".

I would advise contacting Ford Canada yourself, and find a reputable independent service place or another dealership for future work.

I would not accept tap water being mixed with the coolant in my vehicle and there's good reason why Ford's product label specifies distilled water. The fact that the water they're using might be quite soft doesn't cut it with me - the detrimental impact will only be seen after a long period of service. Reject it if they don't follow Ford's directions which are clear on the product labels and that PDF.

Here's another thread on that, with the Ford PDF on the change.

I won't get into any sort of competition regarding our qualifications, but need to point out that you suggested that the Ford qualified techs or engineers erred with regards the PTU lifetime fill. Appreciate that you had good intensions presenting an alternate filter, but from my side I'd like to caution my fellow members that there's no evidence or engineering support confirming that its a safe alternative.

Not just a recommendation, its a specification. I haven't seen a reliable source for the technical specifications for each of the two filters and without that it would be an experiment in the dark, and the same thing goes with experimentation using alternate oil grades. Not something I would promote our members try especially if still under warranty.

With it being a 2012 its obviously no longer under warranty and any repairs/upgrades will be paid out of your pocket - if it was under warranty I'd be more inclined to allow the Dealership to have at it seeing as it would be coming out of their pockets, including any failed experiments. To me it sounds like they're treating the symptoms and not the cause - if it was me, I'd take it to another Dealership. "also my fan has been redirected to work directly once I start my my engine" - that stinks of "shade tree mechanic"

@handfiler hit the nail on the head. Good to hear that you got it sorted and shame on Team RXP.

Yes, I don't like the idea of using the 18" emergency spare, and taking another look at it this evening I decided that I'm going to keep one of those Puncture Plug kits, and a small 12v compressor that I already have, in the ample space in the area where the existing spare is kept. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR5FX8M/?coliid=I28AFU02Y7FK60&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

There I was all these years assuming that I had a 21" spare wheel in the trunk, and as others have pointed out its an 18". The OD is significantly smaller than the 21" wheels, so if I was to use it I'll limit the speed and distance to avoid damage to the differential.

For the button that you want to disable, you could cut the printed circuit board track and if it doesn't work out good just join it with solder.

Now you've got me doubting myself and will need to confirm and take a photo when I get home. It's been many months since I checked the pressure on it and found it way under inflated. Mine is the same as the one seen in the below thread - I'll confirm actual size later today.

My 2017 Sport has a 21" emergency spare and my front rotors are 345mm. What's behind the suggestion to go with an 18"?

My wife's Mustang has a small compressor with liquid puncture sealant in place of a spare. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Fusion-Hybrid-Mobility-2016-2017/dp/B074XMN21M/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ford+tire+mobility+kit&qid=1609373851&sr=8-2

I'm not familiar with this procedure, but expect that it will need a battery charger/tender that has charging rate greater than the current draw with the ignition ON.

When you have a failed start, does the starter actually crank the engine or not?

What the OP has written isn't very clear to me, but the comment that the starter engages could suggest that the FOB is good?? Don't know if it cranks and doesn't fire or what the real status is.