1004ron

There's no "chain on that axle" , what made you think there was? Please add your location and vehicle model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

My Sport bought new in March 2017 battery has shown than its nearing end of life, which is about when you can expect it to need replacement. I can tell because the time with it on ACC power before the warning to start the engine or shut down, has reduced considerably - I have one of the Jump Start packs so will wait to replace the battery when starts showing signs of a slow start.

Thanks ONEDGE16 Wonder why its not available to my VIN?

Can anyone post the screen showing this latest version - I haven't done any updates for quite some time. Wont let me download anything, because the first step asking for the VIN.

On the Ford Owner site after typing in my VIN it says I'm up to date - I haven't done an update in ages. "Your SYNC system (SYNC3 v3.0.19205) is up to date"

The service shop just round off for the billing - the dipstick is what you need to be concerned with. Slightly above normal on the dipstick isn't an issue. BTW, is it an Edge or Escape?

That's correct. My wife's 2015 Mustang and my 2017 Sport used the Orange, and when I recently changed the water pump on the Mustang I found that Ford has changed the coolant spec to Yellow earlier this year. It looks more green than yellow. http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD%20Motorcraft%20Yellow%20Antifreeze-Coolant%20Backward%20Compatability.pdf

No confusion, and agree it could assist someone that might not receive the mail when it arrives. I got early notice from Carfax on the day it was published.

In 3.5 years it came and went over about a 7 day period last year at a time we had very unusual climate weather changes, and haven't seen it again. Haven't done anything with the vent holes etc.

I wasn't getting at the typo, just the comment that he low pressure warning light didn't come on, but the title indicates that it did, and even if it only comes on when the ambient temperature is high, that's still a problem.

I think it was an invite to "ST" only.

This is the response I got from the dealership service manager:

Welcome. Go ahead and post your questions in the appropriate section. Please add location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Don't understand what you mean by that - see thread title : "Intermiten Oil Pressure Light"

Make sure both your cooling fans are coming on with the AC on and when the AC is off and its idling. If the fans are coming on when they should and the temp gauge is normal, then it does look like the water pump failure and coolant in the oil has damaged the bearings. Use a good synthetic oil and OEM oil filter and see if that improves things.

If it was mine, I'd use a mini butane torch and rosin core solder - spread the clamp crimp area, secure the copper cable in it, squeeze the crimp area onto the copper cable, then carefully heat with butane torch while applying the rosin core solder. Arrange the wring loom to give enough slack for the repaired connector to reach the battery terminal, secure everything and coat with Battery Terminal Protector.

Thanks - merged.

Do you have a link to this issue that you say is reported on multiple years and models - please post it here. What's actually happening with yours that leads you to believe that its your door latch causing the battery to drain?

I don't have any experience with them, but they do look good and painted is better than the plated. Within a week the plated ones I installed were rusting - I painted all four with silver calliper paint and its still looking like the day I painted them months ago.

The pulsation is caused by warped rotors and need a dial gauge to confirm. I replaced my front rotors at around 40K miles due to the pulsation/vibration when braking lightly at speed - if this is your symptoms then it points to the front rotors seeing as the brake proportioning would not be applying much to the rears at that time. The replacement front rotors cured my problem, but I went with drilled and slotted and would advise going with solid rotors because after about 9K miles they started making a growling noise at low speed braking. I git a warranty replacement of the drilled and slotted rotors and they still seem OK and have done more the 9K miles. I'm considering these if the noise and slight vibration returns. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JBDC8V/?coliid=IRA6T7CTOJ3KC&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Best of luck and Ford Corp. will most often rely on the dealerships assessment, but not always. If Ford Corp. see the comment in the dust in the paint, it is unlikely that they'll authorize any work because as you state, that did not happen in the factory and Corp. will leave it to you and the selling dealership to fight out. Is it the selling dealership that you're dealing with now?

""How to carry keyless entry LARGE fob." - The one on the left in that photo, .......I carry with me in my right pants pocket - having difficulty understanding how or why that would be such a tough decision.

Welcome. The 2.0 ecoboost does have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Please consider adding your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Welcome. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

It uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor instead of a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. What's behind your thoughts that the MAF needs cleaning? - if it had one, it's best left alone seeing as the air that passes through it is clean/filtered. The MAP can get fouled by the oil and crud from the PCV, which a catch can can help avoid. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,f-150,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3308772,fuel+&+air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207