Waldo

I don't think anyone was talking about downshifting to come to a stop from freeway speed. We're talking about how the "Experts" at Ford have decided that downshifting to maintain speed on a hill is a good thing, which you now seem to agree with.

I agree, sounds like something in the wiring or connectors. My bet would be that some water has gotten into the PCM connectors.

The PCM has an "alt" mode that it uses when the vehicle is in the factory and as it breaks in. It turns itself off after 50 miles. All EPA and emissions testing is done with about 4-5K miles on every vehicle. So Ford has no reason at all to have the calibration change after that. Do you always fill up at the same gas station? Seems more likely the station changed their fuel either they got some non-ethanol fuel, or for some reason they were still using winter-blend.

Did NAPA do a test on the battery? Seems like that would be the first thing a competent mechanic would do. Assuming the message was pcm, not cpm, then it's possible a battery with low voltage could cause that message.

Only if the seal fails.

Just like engine hand cranks and 8-track stereo systems, grease fittings have long disappeared from the modern automobile. You won't miss them, don't worry.

How does the transmission get more wear in 4th gear than 6th?

Trailer sway has nothing to do with fuel economy. There is no reason to turn it off, just leave it on. Ford's AWD system takes a long time to break in, usually more than 5000 miles, so just wait a bit more before judging the fuel economy.

Just put the chip in the glovebox. It will have the exact same effect. Seriously, if you could really get that much improvement from a simple chip, don't you think Ford would have done it from the factory, Some additional reading: http://www.performancechips.com/g-force-performance-chip-reviews.php http://www.la.bbb.org/business-reviews/Automobile-Parts-and-Supplies-Retail/GForceChipscom-in-Irvine-CA-100097164 http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-forum/t-239041.html

If it says "Information" in the green tab on the top right of the screen, it does not have navigation. But you should still be able to select the "information" and it will bring up the sync services screen. If you click the green tab and absolutely nothing happens, then it does have navigation but is missing the card.

Some settings, mostly the safety related ones like trailer sway and park aid will always come back on when you restart. Theory is if some other driver using your key got in and assumed they were on, they could have some problems. Why would you ever want to turn trailer sway off anyway?

It's the final drive ratio. A 3.39 final drive is intended specifically to make the car feel like it has more zip. The downside is that it burns more fuel.

Ford configures their vehicles at the end of the line based on what country it's going to. They turn on and off certain software features. You just need to find somebody that can reconfigure your system. It doesn't matter where that person is, but it's not something any dealer is normally trained to do. But if you find somebody that really knows there stuff, they can turn it on. Most of these "switches" are just hex-identifiers, so for example you may need to turn "DE8C" from 0 to 1. But the trick is knowing what the 4-digit hex code is for the Sirius.

Just pop the side panel off the IP. You can probably see the wires from there, but if not, the switch just has a couple plastic tabs that you can squeeze and it will pop out.

The headlamp switch feeds into the Smart Junction Box. So you would likely have to reprogram that to turn the autolamp feature on. It's also quite likely that you don't have the extra wire in the circuit for the autolamp position on the switch. But if you want to check, the connector going into the back of the headlight switch needs 9 wires for autolamps. If you only have 8, you'll have to run another one.

Not fair to expect a replacement through warranty. If a rock hit your windshield you wouldn't expect that to be replaced under warranty would you? You could always check with your insurance company to see if it's covered that way. The AWD is programmed to disengage when it detects wheels of different diameter - like the mini spare. It will automatically figure everything out when you put a new tire back on. TPMS won't need to be reprogrammed as long as you keep the same sensor on the wheel. Rotating tires is always a good idea, you can never rotate them too often.

TPMS systems are mandated by federal law. All cars sold in the US since (I think) 2008 have them. Your Edge certainly does.

Your Edge has a 20gal tank, your Explorer had a 22.5gal tank. So if you're getting 20mpg, that's an extra 50miles. So you should be comparing 380 in the Edge to the 411 in the Explorer. That's pretty close.

Call your dealer, they will probably have it today.

But the overall issue is that stuff like Sync will generate problems, no matter how good it is. Navigation/voice recognition / connectivity issues are rising rapidly among all manufacturers. Ford just happens to be the one taking the hit the hardest because they have these systems in a much higher percentage of their vehicles. As other OEMs get these systems into more vehicles, I think they'll start to "drop back" to where Ford is.

Not worth a try, it won't work. You're stuck with the Sirius button until someone makes an "app" for that.

They key word in there is the provisioning pack. Your source is incorrect, as dealers are not trained in how to provision the module, so they will not be able to get the Nav to work.

The push button start is a LOT more than just the button. It's five or six antennas placed throughout the car, a separate module and a BUNCH of software that all has to work together. Not an easy conversion at all.

The Edge's AWD is always on. How much power goes to the rear is determined by a bunch of factors, including vehicle speed, throttle position, steering wheel and wheel slip. It's actually very rare that 0% of the torque is being passed to the rear. Only way to be sure it's off is to pull the connector out of the RDU.

It would be easier to take the thermostat off the wall in your house and try to make that work. So no, it's not going to work.