Cerberus

one more thing to consider is that the center bearing on the driveshaft could be on its way out, and that would certainly be an easier & cheaper fix than the RDU. that would roar. the RDU would certainly be capable of making a roar / whine combination noise too.

The wheel bearing noise in my case was most evident after one particular turn on the way home. the long sweeping turn loaded the bearing in such a way that it made it complain and make more noise. The new noise now happens when i lean into the loud pedal, which would definitely make the RDU clutch ramp in and deliver more drive force to the rear end, so yes, the noise is most audible when power transfer to the rear in active

To be fair, I should give you more of the story. At about 65k miles I brought my edge to the dealership for the brake hose recall. While it was there I asked them to look at a couple other things including a bearing noise from the rear of the vehicle. Had a warranty that was running out so I wanted to use up whatever I could of it. They claimed they could not duplicate it. When I got under the vehicle to check / change the RDU fluid next it was about 8 months later, and the RDU was EMPTY. Now anyone can figure out that there's no way it could have gone 65k empty, and there are no leaks, so they pimped it out hoping it would grenade so they would get the job. I ended up doing the rear wheel bearings and that fixed the noise at that time, and ive kept changing the fluid and cleaning the magnet on the fill plug, but I took a 2k mile road trip last month and I've noticed new noise from the rear, different than before,, and with all the metal flake that's come off the plug, it's not surprising that it's on its way out But my point is, this is a one-off situation that bears no resemblance to normal use with even minimal maintenance

Exactly. If I can find a lift to do the job on. I've got a couple coworkers with lifts at home but all are occupied with long term projects.

What I didn't mention is that the RDU fill plug magnet was pretty furry again, and I've been hearing dry bearing / hypoid whine noise from the rear section of the driveline so I need to either get ready to do the rear end swap (already have one to install) or trade the vehicle (the easier but less desirable option, because I do like this vehicle) I just wish I had a lift to do the job on.

I wouldn't know, I've never tried it, nor heard the term before in that context. I grew up before that was a thing, before big pharm muscled into the recreational market.

I had a 2011 fusion sport with the 3.5 w/ captive water pump fail on me at 86k. The vehicle had been leased prior to my ownership so I can't speak for its early maintenance life but I took good care of it.. That is a different situation though, because replacing that waterpump requires dropping the entire eng/trans assy out of the vehicle, whereas the pump can be replaced with the engine in place on the older edges

changed all driveline fluids eng oil change, trans fluid change, PTU drain & refill, RDU evacuate and top with smurf snot (Redline LW Shockproof)

Funny thing, 'Good enough' rarely is. I want exceptional. The synthetic filter media is typically a tightly woven fiberglass cloth, preferred for its flexibility and strength. I never wondered about it because ever since I bought the PF35L Delco filter for a small block chevy, I have used filters with synthetic filter media because it simply superior to cellulose. full stop. Yes, metal corrodes. steel, iron, aluminum.. all of these are common metals to find on the cooling system of most vehicles.. so lets just say, concerns for corrosion potential are minimal for me. Nevermind that coolants are designed with corrosion inhibitors to avoid exactly that problem.. From my own experience, plus the experiences of many people who've had the captive pump fail around the 100k mark, pushing the service interval on that component to that far out is potentially foolhardy.. but whatever makes you happy, have at it. To be clear, I'm not here to convince anyone what is the best part or whose parts to trust, I'm just supporting and defending my own choices. I'm not a brand fanboi, Far from it, I like best what works best. Your vehicle, your money, your choice.

right, but that was not the Fram ultimate or Fram titanium filter. I was leery of them as well, but this is a different product from the paper pleated weak garbage they made before. Actually the Purolator Pure One / Boss filter was my go-to forever, but I never found them being made for my engine, so I was buying redline filters with a synthetic media, but the Fram filter is identical, and more readily available. Now that said, If you can show me how THIS filter is garbage, I will throw out my stash of them, but apples to apples comparisons are more on-the-nose relevant than apples to garbage trucks. Contrary to common opinion, you can in fact go wrong with motorcraft parts. as a quick example, motocraft captive waterpump in a 3.5L has a brown plastic garbage impeller (that arrived broken when i ordered one) whereas a delco pump for the same engine (yes, Delco) had a metal impeller, so that's the one i opted for.

sludge comes from excess heat boiling off the more volatiles components, and shear overworking a lubricant open up an older PTU or differential that never got serviced and tell me that sludge came from, friction modifiers, or combustion bypass..? neither. you can use a straight weight oil (if you can find any) and you'll still get sludge. Thats why I run fully synthetics for decades now, they are so much more heat tolerant that they never sludge.

i'm not trying to be obtuse here, but explain how adding something, which is not in a liquid state (boils off to vapor at 31.2 degrees F) to a less volatile liquid results in less vapor?

boils/evaporates quickly when warm? Butane boils at 31 degrees F.. which is not exactly warm.

While I don't have first hand knowledge on precise fuel formulations per seasonal requirements, Ethanol is as far as I know less volatile than gasoline, which would make it counter intuitive to use higher Ethanol content in winter formulations, unless I have it backwards or they add another ingredient to increase volatility? IDK

gasoline at the pump is seasonally and regionally variable due to air temperature influence on vaporization. Higher alcohol content = higher resistance to knock, which also equals poorer mileage due to energy density of the fuel

one more thing, checking resting voltage in the morning means any small persistent drains have had the opportunity to siphon off a fair amount of power overnight.. effectively irrelevant drains can still pull a battery down over time. and it is possible your battery is old and wearing out

quite right. but just to be clear, when you test resting battery voltage, that is supposed to be tested with ZERO load, (which is nearly impossible with it connected to the vehicle) and keep in mind that some batteries top out at slight different voltage depending on conditioning and type (AGM vs flooded vs gel) One of the better ways to test a battery is impedance and load testing. This gives a better metric of capacity vs state of charge, which is primarily what resting voltage tells you. also, the computer (which runs the charge algorithm by directly controlling the alternator) is set to target something like 75% charge for fuel conservation purposes supposedly. you can use forscan to change this value, though i don't necessarily recommend it

my 2016 self learns. When i lived up north and bought winter tires & wheels with sensor specifically for my vehicle, I just swapped the new wheels on and drove away. within 5 minutes the vehicle self learned the new sensors. I suspect a vehicle that is 8 years newer should do the same, so the only question is is you have the correctly compatible sensors.

oops.. lol

Yeah.. but you liked the comment that recommended that he take it to the dealership.. lol

this thread is over 3 years old.. unless i'm missing something?

I dont know for your vehicle off hand, I'd have to figure it out from looking. It will be the skinnier of the two, and will flow to the condenser

gotta love a happy ending. but just to be sure, it might be worth checking your charging voltage at idle, and if you have Forscan you can even read the alternator output current from the alternator current output sensor. I was getting the battery saver mode warning on mine before my alternator failed.

if you end up seeing some extreme pressures with standard or low refrigerant charge level, you may have a ruptured desiccant pack in the receiver / dryer.. Might be a long shot, but its possible, and it would explain leakage out the blow off. If its not leaking from the blow off, its most likely leaking from the high side line seal at the compressor. That would actually be good news. Point of interest, the vacuum test, while useful, can be misleading because sometimes seals really only seal well in one direction (pressure) I've had systems not hold vacuum well, but hold their charge just fine. The opposite can also be true.

filters are a subject of particular interest (hah!) to me everything is a compromise. You have several conflicting parameters to work within, like oil pressure & flow rate, versus engine drag which effects fuel economy. But of course, the required oil flow at a specific viscosity is a non-negotiable value for any given engine, defined by machining tolerances and wear. Pressure requirements are contingent on clearances and load (power stroke) on the bearing to journal mating. Flow requirements are contingent on how quickly the pressurized journals squirt their cushion out, and back to the pan (which again is influenced by design clearances & wear) You can make a filter that would not let anything over 0.1 micron particulate through it, BUT, you'd never get enough flow to make the pressure to float your bearings unless it had Massive surface area. The Mann filter does look like it has a lot more surface area but being a cellulose filter media, the pose sizing is highly irregular compared to a woven synthetic filter media, and that irregularity makes for some larger pores (bad for filtration but great for flow) and some tight pores which are arguably wasted filter surface until or unless the large pores are filled up. But is won't crush because it is flowing a lot of (less clean) oil. The primary benefit of synthetic filter media is that a tightly woven synthetic media can have extremely predictable and normalized small pore size which allows for a high level of filtration without being too restrictive to flow rate. But a heavy oil at high flow rates will still exert a lot of pressure on the media and crush it if it is not well supported.