Cerberus

Try a high quality fuel system cleaner. I like BG44k. Dirty or sticky injectors can cause all kinds of symptoms that are difficult to trace it is likely that your O2 sensors are age skewed as dillard said. impossible to test for this, because it reads as if it knows what it is talking about but the input (exhaust) can actually be much richer than the output (voltage) indicates. and, if you're going to change your upstream sensors, running the fuel system cleaner through it before hand is advisable as opposed to after.

that clicking sound you hear is likely the drive mechanism slipping on worn teeth. I dont recommend you keep trying to open it, because you have a high risk of having it stuck open if you do get it past that point..

if the scanner sees it but the car does not, something is wrong with the sensor. The scan tool is designed to be able to read sensors from many different manufacturers, so it will read it regardless, if the sensor is alive. possibly a wrong frequency sensor? not a fun thing, having to replace a new sensor, but I suspect that is where this is headed.

I'm only about 1.5 hours away, done several "spirited" runs. I enjoy it. There are times when you will deal with less traffic of an type, like weekdays, early to mid morning. I have done a couple 330am runs, down and back.. One time I stopped at the overlook on the way back up, (pitch black, not sure why i bothered), turned back to look at the car and saw this.. ?

soo.. after rereading all your posts on this thread, there is a problem. The symptoms you describe and the things that do or do not have an effect on the problem are far outside of logical. Particularly, at one point you said you cracked the line at the MC which freed up the wheels, but then later you said you cracked the bleeders at the wheels to no effect. This is pretty much impossible. So either you are misrepresenting the situation, or your car is possessed, or your just trolling / fucking with me. Either way, its beyond my ability to help. Reload the parts cannon and try again..?

ok.. don't take this as disrespectful, but you are not diagnosing the problem, you are just throwing parts at it. in my old shop, my old supervisor would occasionally say "Load the parts cannon!" when techs would use this as a diagnostic process. So, we have a lot of new parts, unnecessarily. You might think this would eliminate things from suspicion, but the opposite is true imho, because parts quality (even OEM parts quality) can be absolute shit, so new parts just add variables to the equation sometimes. This is contrary to diagnostic process, you want to remove variables to diagnose causes. The fact that your front wheels won't spin freely when off the ground, and the brake fluid spurted when you cracked the fittings tells me you have a problem with captive pressure. This is usually caused by brake hoses that fail internally and create a one way valve holding pressure in the caliper, but of course in this case, since it was at the MC, that is not the cause here. (yes that's a lot of commas, fuck the grammar, i don't have time to write it more nicely) Once again.. I have to say your MC is suspect. either the plunger is not being allowed to return to the full retracted position by the pedal / pushrod / mounting / bad installation / who the hell knows, or the MC is internally damaged, preventing one or both of the plunger seals from coming all the way back to uncover the port that allows fluid to flow back to the reservoir. AFAIK, there is no such thing as a propitiating valve.. and i definitely do not recommend that you screw with the ABS.. but if you do, let us know how that turns out.

RUN Do not return to a dealership that is trying to rape you. And be sure to leave them a 1 star review on google and any other places you see fit, with specific details as to why to avoid them. The reason I say this, is there is very little likelihood that all of those components are bad. At most one or two of them could be. The likely scenario is that the dealer is trying to scare you into trading up, getting your car for a steal of a price, fixing it and flipping it for a fat profit. Now, when you say "locking up in the rear" do you mean that the rear wheels were actually stopping rotation while driving? Or, when braking? Details matter. Give us more information.

Basic diagnostic process says to look at when the problem started and see what changed. My guess would have to be that the booster installation or the booster itself is the problem. if brake pedal travel is somehow being impeded from returning to fully back, that could cause a problem like what you are describing. Of course, this would generally leave the rear brake lights on, so that is something I would think you'd notice. I dont know if there is any type of linkage adjustment or free travel spec associated with pedal position, booster drive pin etc, but that is probably where I would start. I hate to say it, but it is possibly a bad booster, even if it is a name brand and factory fresh.. bottom line, something is not allowing the MC to get to fully returned position.

so did this problem exist before you did the alternator replacement? I'll presume so, so you need to figure out where the loose connection is. whether at the battery itself or the far ends of the primary power cables, there is almost certainly a loose connection. The tests of your battery and charging system are irrelevant because they are not being performed when the problem is occurring. I'd start by testing at night or in a dark area, lights on, hood open and start trying to wiggle any heavy electrical connection you see, and watch the lights for change.

these links will get you started in the right direction if you want to source the parts https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-insulator_7e5z-4b424-d.html https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-insulator_cv6z-4b425-a.html https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2008-ford-edge/chassis/rear_differential_mounting.html?filter=(1886)&pnc=4B424

Well as far as that goes, with air temps over 100, I presume the AC is running anyway, and if not, as long as you are driving along at more than 20 mph, the air flow through the radiator is generally sufficient to keep the engine cooler than the stock fan set point. Side note, I took a hard ride after the wheel bearing job to verify the repair, and was running my data logger. Arrowheads indicate max and min values

Actually, all you have to do is turn on your AC. This will command the fan to come on

A few observations from my rear drive noise / wheel hub job; The fact that my RDU ran without any appreciable amount of lubricant for an unknown amount of time, under my driving style and didn't grenade is impressive to say the least. There were some small metal fragments on the fill plug magnet, but it seems to be working without any degradation atm so I'm going to just let it go for now. I have an Ebay unit waiting to be installed when or if it is needed, but there is not obvious rush to that, so I will wait. The bolts for the hubs are a torque to yield, one time use bolt so replace them if you do this job. The knuckles had a fair bit of corrosion inside the bearing bore space, which really needs to be cleaned up as best you can, but aluminum oxide is pretty hard stuff so it can be a bit of a PITA. I buttered up the outer surface of the hubs with an anti-seize compound so that, if i have to pull the hubs back out to do the RDU, they will not be stuck. I did not remove the wheel speed sensors to do the job, and they were not damaged. I am fairly certain that if i tried to remove them, they would have broken. If I do end up doing the RDU job, I will have to pull the CV axles out so they speed sensors will need to be replaced. I bought one Timken bearing (when i thought i was going to do just the one) and one Motocraft bearing (when i decided to do both and Timken was out of stock..) but by all appearances, they are identical bearings, made in the same plant in Slovokia.. at very similar price points, and they had the same markings as the OEM ones i replaced. So I found that interesting, thought you might too. Anyway, it wasn't that bad of a job, but not a lot of fun when it hit 85° and humid AF by 11am.. ?

if you deal with that kind of heat a lot, a lower temp thermostat could be an idea to pursue..

I'm sure you could, but there was no need at all in my case.

busy morning. I have been chasing a rear end noise that I was unsure the precise origin of. I have good reason to be leery of the RDU (after finding it was empty or damned close to it for who knows how long), but figured I would do the wheel bearing hubs first to see if that resolved it As luck would have it, the howling is gone. Cue the heavy sigh of relief. FWIW, if anyone has need to do a hub bearing assembly, that tool on the pictures is a great tool which eliminates the need to do any hammering, avoiding any disturbance to the neighbors.

As much as I like a lot of their products, I have to agree with the design choice error statement. On my 2016 sport, I have seen PTU temps north of 270F from a spirited (HARD) drive through a local twisty road.. and a constant climb to around 230 at highway cruise speeds. Considering how much direct surface contact there is to the transmission, there has to be a fair amount of heat dump to the trans which does obviously have a means to dump that heat. This makes me think that the heat soak from the rear turbo & cat are the primary sources of the heat in my case, so that is something that I plan to address/test at some point. PTU cooler is not an option on mine AFAIK but the loss of fluid volume to add a cooler core would make it a hard decision for me anyway, I'd probably just plan to drain & refill the PTU every 30K miles. Its cheap an easy enough. But I am not in the middle east, and our ambient temps here are not ridiculous.

I'd have no way to know, it was not mentioned, but being kind of a shitbox sedan, i somewhat doubt it. For 3 new schraders, pump down, evac, vac test and refill should be less than 200 IMO for whatever that is worth. I'd guess closer to 100 if no other parts or svc are required. Side note, I took a hard ride through the dragon on Saturday in the rain and was VERY pleased with the Conti Extreme Contact tires. Exceptional grip, even wet. and yeah, I know I am supposed to be fixing the rear end.. but i'm hoping it will get loud enough or loose enough to be absolutely sure what needs replacing. As yet, no bearing has any perceptible play. The dry diff (took ~600ml to fill) gives me reason to suspect that is the problem.. This noise has been slowly progressing for over a year. When the dealer had it for the front brake line recall, they said they could not replicate the noise.. that still annoys me.

The easiest test of fan function is just crank the AC up to max in the heat of the day with all the widows open and see if the fans come on. If not, there is something wrong. Could be a fan control module if your model has one, fan itself or even a loose wire to a pressure sensor on the system.

There is a relay associated with AC clutch. It's worth checking / swapping that to see if that changes anything.

Unfortunately, using pressure as a reference for AC fill level is really not the right way to do it at all. If you jad a proper guage set so you could watch high side and low side pressures, you could have a solid idea of actual charge level by factoring against ambient air temperature. But, you are supposed to evac and fill the system by charge weight. There should be a sticker under the hood which tells you what the correct charge weight is. If the compressor is short cycling it could be low on refrigerant, or paradoxically overfilled. Too much refrigerant can male it so the compressor won't start because it's unable to start up when pushing against such a head of pressure. You said you had 15psi on the low port, was this with the compressor clutch engaged or no? Lastly to your question, I believe forscan may have the ability to command the fans on which will give you the ability to see if they are responding as commanded

I hate to be the one to tell you this.. but what you describe sounds like the water pump job was a failure, as in, the cams are in fact out of time because they weren't locked down correctly or the chain installation & tensioning was done wrong. The reason I say this is that basic diagnostic process is to usually look at what happened just before the problem began, If the code was not present before doing the pump, and it was there immediately after, and changing the sensors didn't fix it, the most likely reasonable cause is that the sensors are right. It is possible you have a wire pinched to ground or harness damage of some kind, but I don't think that is as likely. I hope I'm wrong, but I don't think I am.

as 1004ron suggested, a catch can is the easiest fix to this, in the absence of a warranty

BTW, I'm not oblivious to the irony of this.. because there's a lot of off topic in this thread, and much of it is mine lol

As much as that is all useful information, I'm searching for the relevance ..? She was not even driving an edge. I'm not even sure if it was a Taurus but it was a blue sedan shit box, and she was about to be ripped off blind.. so I spilt because I didn't want to give any business to such a facility, even if they didn't try to rip me off.. though I expect they would have tried to