Cerberus

for what it is worth.. I had what i thought was a boiling coolant sound (more of a gentle bubbling sound) in the rear turbo when i came off the highway on hot days. One day i turned off my A/C to hear it better.. and it stopped. It turns out, i was hearing the refrigerant boiling in the evaporator. air in the cooling system will usually burp itself out if the reservoir / header tank is kept on the high side of the range, unless its a large pocket of air, then you'll crack a head before it purges itself on some engines Vacuum filling is the only answer for those cases

I used the rain-x washer fluid so it retreats every time i hit the washer button.. its a million times easier than your process i think. I respect your attention to detail and diligence to have such an involved and comprehensive procedure, but i tend to lack the patience for some things.. especially when there is an effective simple alternative. interesting though, the bit about polymers evaporating off the cluster and interior. I always wondered about that, why the inside gets a film on it.. i mean, i don't smoke.. and I don't have a heater core or evaporator leak as far as i know, so what the hell? question answered.

yeah.. this is me. I don't like to follow too close for safe stopping buffer, but if i leave a reasonable safety gap some ass always drops in and pisses me off I really want a 'look to aim' paintball machine gun on my hood 1 rain sense wipers - i use rain-x and use the wipers as little as possible, so usually they are off unless needed 2 auto high beam - always on except in foggy conditions. i like the feature 3 adaptive cruise makes commuting easier and less stressful- i like it 4 self park- i never use it. tested it once. thats it 5 sync.. never really use it. 6 heated and A/C seats, definite fan of this 7 lane assist - somewhat helpful if you are on a long road trip and getting punchy while looking for a rest stop. but it works poorly and will kill you if you rely on it..

I I finally got around to changing Some of my sparkplugs.. lol 2 hours after driving home, the engine was still pretty warm and i was already losing daylight fast, so I just did the forward bank (#4, 5, & 6) Lets just say i long for the day when the biggest problem was getting straight on an angled plug close to a header.. Holy spiderweb of wiring and vacuum / vapor pipes.. and this is the easy part. The rear bank will be real fun Anyway, 65K miles and the plugs I changed were at 30-34 thousandths, while the new NGK Rutheniums were gapped at .029ish right out of the box

a bad wheel bearing will not necessarily have an audible tell or perceptible vibration before it goes very bad. some don't give much warning at all before they fail in catastrophic fashion. it depends on the vehicle and bearing design, plus a handful of variables

Fair question, I have no idea! But that is the number on my invoice.. but interestingly, the part number on the part itself is slightly different this site for some reason is failing to upload the picture of the part# from the part..................... ? the part number on the tag is GL34 9B325 DB and it lays in the valley between the intake manifold and the forward cylinder bank valve cover EDIT: but that part# offer no results when searched...

the info that 1004ron posted is correct, and matches the part # on my invoice https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-fuel-line-bracket-gl3z9b325b

also, if the battery was/is dead and old (3years +) get a new battery. old batteries that have been deeply discharged never come back to original condition

The phone plug in is a non issue, but the pizza bag may draw more power than the socket can provide safely or more than the alternator can provide without pulling power from the alternator field excite wire.. without specific knowledge of the wiring set up on your vehicle it is hard to say. I'd disco the pizza bag, get the vehicle running and test power output of the alternator

sounds from your description like an electrical issue more than an actual oil pressure problem.. especially the clicking starter possibly a bad starter, but sounds like a dead battery or bad connection @ batt or starter.. If it is a dead battery then the alternator / connections would be suspect

so, not the Ruthenium plugs?

Just to bring this to closure, i had the evap purge valve/solenoid replaced under drivetrain warranty at the dealership and the problem was cured. I did have an extended OBD code stored which indicated an evap error. Come to find out, the valve is right on top of the forward cylinder bank, So i would have done it myself and saved the visit with those ass clowns.. but thats a different story for another day..

Sooo.. i came to this thread looking for recommended spark plugs for the 2.7Eco and there is no mention ? What do you think? Stock engine, no tune, but hard WOT every day, and some spirited street carving occasionally ?

I may have taken a spirited pre-dawn ride, down and back on a well known local road for a little adrenaline therapy.. The rotors were more red when i first looked but i had to grab my phone / camera and turn off the flash.. ?

Soo.. you went to a larger vehicle with less power? THAT'll be fun. Just messing with you, good luck with the new ride

I'd say that is your best first choice imho

because of the variable power distribution to the rear diff, the fluid there is almost never worked in any appreciable way, so yeah it was in near virgin condition when i did mine. PDU fluid was similar for the same reason. Even though the gears are always turning, they are almost never under any load.

I don't know if this would work for your purposes, but phones that delete the 3.5mm audio jack have to use a USB-C to 3.5mm audio adapter cable which is pretty cheap.. and they apparently make it in a USB-B format too. For way under $100.. (hang on, the fist one i found does not work for your purposes) ok, this is apparently more of a niche market item than i realized...

because alienating any part of your market demographic is a stupid business practice, especially when we are talking about removing an existing feature versus development of a new feature. I agree that USB thumb drives or bluetooth connection to a phone or other audio source is quite easy, but for technophobes, it is not so easy, and there are perfectly reasonable arguments against using either USB or Bluetooth. Security being the foremost among them.

Yeah, apparently this is one of those situations where i was completely wrong.. sitting in car, looking around like, i would SWORN there was an audio jack...?

Thats ridiculous if they deleted the line in port. FWIW, mine is in my center console if I recall correctly, not the one under the radio etc.. but i could be wrong

why bother with a bluetooth connection, just use a audio cable from the CD headphone jack to the aux input port on the vehicle. or, as much as you don't want to do the thumb drive option, it is the easiest and most stable way to deliver audio to the system..

just for the sake of clarity, I understand the argument that a 1/4 cup of extra oil left in the pan may SEEM insignificant, but to me, any metal particles are going to be settled in that last little bit of oil And yes, you can remove the adapter plug (dorman, Ronin, w/e) after the majority of the oil has drained but then you don't have the high velocity of flow at the initial stage of draining to sweep out particles. Not looking for an argument, just saying, to each their own. Do whatever makes you happy.

fair point

flushing a motor crank case can be problematic.. If i were in your situation, I'd probably be using something like Rislone (high detergent, not solvent) to clean out the internals. Also, I have had very good results with Mobil1 fully synthetic oils to avoid sludgy garbage inside my engines. no harm in just changing the oil, maybe much more frequently for a little while as a slow flush. One of the possible causes cited for P0010 is engine electrical harness failure / rub through.. check out this video too