Cerberus

One more thing, are you steering small adjustments to your trajectory? I mean, in the video we see the view out the windshield but not the wheel and it's state.

as much as that thing is weaving around, i'd guess your sway bars are broken or disco'ed or your shocks are blown. way too much motion for not being on water, but at a cadence that is not wheel related.. its like the air turbulence is blowing you around very weird

I would not be doing forensic disassembly of a new unit, thats a ballsy boss move lol. I doubt if mine has the newest version since 2016 model year vehicles are usually all built before June of 2016.. Mine seems ok at the moment but I am a definite fan of the loud pedal and I am getting some driveline lash. No lift here, and a strict no-work policy in my lease means I haven't laid eyes on the PTU or rear drive shaft in some time, but I have a 4 pack of shockproof redline gear oil to install at the next opportunity. I'm hoping the lash is due to driveshaft carrier bearing slop..

Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing

i mean, thats most of what I have now, but thank you, i went and scanned them for pertinent info for my needs . I was hoping for a single source with all ABT data where you could just select your year & model and have it spit out all ABT data and what conflicts or issues are related to the mod. Kind of a crowd sourced single point of reference WiKi style

Ok, so where is the best & most comprehensive forscan reference for what settings change does what? And interactions between settings? I had remote window close turned on but i lost items on my dash configure menu system.. so some switches turned on also turn off other things.. Who has the master config interaction reference? (yes i had the AsBuilt data and rewrote that all back)

Forscan is very good, very powerful tool to have. Out of left field guess, but the dashboard freak out & violent shut down imply an electrical issue.. hard to even guess what kind of electrical issue.. harness damage that only presents when the drivetrain is torqued out of place from a bad dogbone? Curious to see what kind of codes you come up with given that you seem to be a Ford family, Forscan is a solid investment.

water pump failure would be my first thought. since they are known for having problems, and the motorcraft part has a plastic impeller.. which is garbage. and the bearings fail, ruin the seal etc when filling the cooling system on that engine, it is basically impossible to fill it normally, you need to vacuum fill it otherwise you end up with a big air pocket that cannot be vented imho, stop throwing parts at it. look above and behind the A/C compressor for a stain of coolant running down the block. That will be your tell that te pump is going. and check your oil fill cap. if its milky, you're done. water pump time.

the same thing, you'd have TPMS light on at all times. unless of course you use forscan to turn off the TPMS monitoring/reporting system

Interesting thing, you can alter your target battery charge level in Forscan while you are telling it is an AGM.. and turning off the double beep, and turning on secure idle..

Fair enough, thanks for the information

No, I didn't even think about it. I drive about an hour a day so it has plenty of opportunity for charging. I did butter up the terminals of the new battery with grease to retard any oxidation. The old battery said FoMoCo on it, and battery age was over 2000 days.. so I figure it was due. Plus this past summer I killed it dead by leaving the push button ignition on and the fan running accidentally. Deeply dead. It took power back, but it hurt it.

Ok, that is the opposite of everything I know and have read about lead acid batteries. Lithium ion batteries cycle life is significantly increased by only charging to 80% of full, but lead acid requires top up with equalizing voltage of 14.6 or better at least once a month to avoid early sulfation and loss of capacity. They don't like to be deeply discharged for sure, that ruins them too but they prefer 95% plus charging most of the time, and require top up occasionally.

soo.. i have to ask, since i just installed an AGM H7 with 850CCA, what will change by telling the computer there is a higher CCA and different type battery present? I mean do the charging algorithms change to voltages for bulk charging versus float? Interestingly, my old battery (FoMoCo 590CCA) was either original or the battery life counter was never reset if it was changed.. it showed an age of over 2000 days.. I have not done any playing with editing of data bits with forscan, just data acquisition, so I am leery of changing anything, probably because i'm a virgin.. its always more nerve wracking the first time.

This was very helpful, Thank You I went to Wallyworld and grabbed an AGM H7, shoe horned it in there with a pry bar or two and away we go ?

so I tested my battery again today because its been sounded pretty weak on start up, and the Solar tester result came back at 290CCA.. so its battery time i guess.. interestingly, the start test showed a low of over 10.4 volts which i would think was fine.. charging voltage of just over 15V seems a bit too high to me but what do I know Now i need to find that chart that shows what batteries fit so i can find one

I bought the solar tester.. not sure if i like it or not. i tend to distrust a meter that consistently reports above manufacturer specified.. specification, but it is better than nothing

in theory, the factory PCM part # can be retrieved from Forscan app on the phone.. I'm fairly certain i've seen a listing of module part #s when i was poking around on mine..

mine does..

Not familiar with that term, "over landing"..?

Ok, there's a fair amount or horse shit flying around here.. I have to say, I am dubious / surprised / impressed if true that any mass market production vehicle is performing ignition timing control on each cylinder separately, or even on alternate cylinder banks separately as suggested by the shell pressure test. However, that is still not a great test. Pressure average is not the metric that should be used anyway, what you really want to know is peak cylinder pressure at a specific point (about 6° ATDC iirc) Yes high octane fuel offers more opportunity for more power if utilized correctly. Full disclosure, I could not watch the entire video in some cases because of the annoying drivel factor. And I get it, dumbing shit down for Joe and Jane Consumer is necessary to some degree when dealing with extremely complex subjects, but it's damned annoying to feel like you accidentally got put in a remideal kindergarten class..

Yes, i am aware of this. FWIW I am a lapsed ASE Certified Master Tech. (Never bothered recertifying after the first time because it never made me one dollar more) The post was more of a comment as to the fact that it was an obvious and significant difference, and commenting just for commenting's sake.

full disclosure mine is a sport, not an ST, but still a 2.7 Eco. When i read my owners manual and it said it was perfectly ok to run 89 octane i was kind of blown away.. I mean 10:1 compression and 15(ish) pounds of boost..? on Regular?! So, I have been running mostlty regular, but TopTier regular from Costco and other good sources. But about 2 weeks ago I said screw it and switch back to premium, before taking 2 extended road trips. Now, I don't know if its the fuel cleaning up carbon deposits (the piston crowns were black with carbon) or the ECU remapping ignition timing to use the available octane, or the air temps cooling off, (or some combination of all three more likely) but there feels like a lot more giddy-up when you mash the loud pedal, perceived by my highly calibrated butt dyno.. ?

Season change oil change. about 8K miles. about 50% highway use Used the Fram XG11955. I have been happy with this filter As always, Mobil 1 extended performance 5w-30

i'm curious about this too