Cerberus

can't say for 100% certain but it definitely looks like the screw is into a seal.. so be sure, find reference materials find images of the part and see if it matches what you are seeing. My guess, pop that puppy out and have a new one handy to install

sync 3.0 to 3.4 update using Cyanlabs SYN3 Updater. easy peasy lemon squeezy

thanks for this. I just did my update to 3.4, it was nerve-wracking but ultimately easy as heck and painless I'm not worried about radio icons and such, so i probably won't play with doing the new calibration on the APIM

I really hope my initial response to your offer to help (though it was no perceived as such) has nothing to do with this change in your product development direction. I am well aware that I am sometimes difficult and unduly reactive to innocuous interactions and I am sorry for how I reacted to your post. Nothing but respect for product development efforts.

to be fair, i didn't feel like this was a squabble aside from my initial snarky response .. again, my mistake. basically just conversation and introductions

I dont know how you could perceive no value add to that disclosure of who "We" refers to.. id be putting that in your sig line if I were you. You might end up with some bs traffic from itx but you could get a great idea for a new product to develop from someone's needs. Anyway, very cool. Respect. I dont do Instagram.. Your quoting of my post did not read as an offer of help, it read as, "hey, you didn't ask a question" which I interpreted as being called on violating some unknown-to-me rule about not fluff posting or something. Starting a post with 'sorry' doesn't always mean sorry and depending on the nature of the poster, can really mean, "sorry you're so stupid that I have to explain this but...". One Sport bike M/C forum i was on was an absolute shit show of rude and antisocial posts, because one of the admins was (and probably still is) a total douche. That site is dead now, no surprise, but my member title went from Consiglier to The Vilified. Ah the good old days

Cool thanks. Not to go too far off topic but you seem to referring to yourself (singular?) As "we".. Or do multiple people use your account? Or do you speak on behalf of a group? Very confusing. And sorry for the snark. Your perceived antagonistic reply to my expressed interest in the catch can install seemed to warrant but I apparently misread your intention.

Forscan is the answer

And your problem is? (That's a direct question) /\ /\ Thats me being a bit of a dick. don't do this.

Hoping for an update on this whenever you get around to it.. I've been wanting to install a catch can but just not gotten around to it yet

fair enough

what spec are you using?

first time i ever heard of rotor movement making a noticeable noise.. I'm guessing your lugs were not tight the first time.. in fact, looking at the condition of your wheel studs, i'd make damned sure you are torquing them up to spec. my 2016 has 14mm studs and torques to around 145 ft/lbs.. seemed like a lot at first.. but thats the number, that what i do

where exactly would i put that curved magnet? or what am I sticking it to ? the plastic housing that holds the filter or the aluminum housing that it screws into? I'm guessing, neither.

Rings & cylinder walls, cam sprockets & chains would likely be the primary sources of ferrous metals... but not all materials in the engine are ferrous.. which of course makes the magnet irrelevant for those particles, and filter quality paramount. and no. reviews don't convince me to buy anything that I was not already going to buy.

Oh I know.. I am often that guy ?

I mean.. i guess i could try to jam this in the space around the oil filter.. but i'm not sure there's enough space there for it, and i'd be reluctant to try (haha)

that assumes that the magnet will catch the metal particles while they are in suspension instead of them settling to the pan, which will happen every time you shut off the engine. The only way the magnet would be highly effective is if it was stuck to, or very near, the oil pump pick up screen. and the drain plug adapter still leaves residual oil in the pan, a good bit more than staying with the original style plug. again, was not looing for a debate on it, just offering a thought

Ok, apologies in advance for any/all toes that may get stepped on.. but there's a lot of things that do not line up in this thread. First, Zamboni, your name would not be Zack would it? Prior production assistant to the late Anthony Bourdain? Probably not First, your introductory post feels like more of a literary foray, than a request for help.. I mean.. mentioning that you did not bring the Cat?! For someone who was supposedly typing on a phone, you included a LOT of irrelevant detail. 2nd, a 2 year old car with 27K miles is not a show room car, it is a Loaner / rental / demo, shop beater.. which leads into the likely cause of your problems. 3rd, "thumping crunchy noises in the back" diagnosed as bad diff, plausible, but how and why? (maybe someone previously bounced it off a curb, bending wheel, damaging wheel bearing/hub/flange, CV joints, Diff & control arm, or any combination thereof) 4th, 2 weeks after diff replacement, the bobbing and weaving begin, which to me, as a professional diagnostician, makes me suspicious of anything they touched while working on the diff swap, particularly rear control arm mounting components. 5th, significant literary license in the description of symptoms... I suspect you are a creative person.. like a production assistant would be.. 6th, Ford dealer says its all good.. this, sadly, is 100% credible. It is possible they just didn't find the problem, or (worse) they didn't want to deal with it. I've had horrific experience with dealerships.. 7th "The car has been seen in a Ford dealership and cleared as : nothing wrong, issues still present" Sorry, but this is on you. the quoted statement is a logical fallacy.. I would have grabbed someone by the throat and asked them to explain how it is possible to have nothing wrong but problem still present, and who exactly is liable if we all die because your techs were too stupid or disinterested to find the problem? (see how much i love them?) 8th, video evidence. very interesting. SOmething is obviously loose. the only question is what. the supposed bent wheel would have a much faster cadence of oscillation / vibration at that road speed. 9, having a CV axle changed by any shop would not effect your warranty for future reference, though Ford likely would not warranty that part or the work if they knew it was not done by them. 10, About sympathy.. as my father used to say, if you're looking for sympathy, the only place you're likely to find it is between Shit and Syphilis in the dictionary. Still true. Plus saying 'sorry', is sometimes legally considered an admission of guilt and adoption of responsibility.. 11, result! bent rim is totally plausible (#3 above) but would not seem to be a probable cause of the symptoms described.. which makes me think they are using that as a 'cover' for having found and quietly fixed something worse that would open the dealership who did not find the problem and maybe Ford corporate to major legal liabilities.. I mean its great if it is fixed, and hopefully stays that way.. 12, bad logic on comparing Ford to Has-been companies, saying focus on product and not people is to blame for the loss.. truth of that is that a great product would not break, and thus not need customer service. Sorry, i know that was a lot to go through. If it makes you feel any better, I got out of bed to type up this response.. because this much typing requires a bigger screen lol Good luck you ice shaving bastard

This Extremely suspect diagnosis. I dont buy it.

When we are talking about either a long block or a short block, we are talking about the core of your engine. This includes the engine block and what is inside in (crank, rods, pistons, camshaft if applicable) Short block does not include the head, long block does. So we are talking about the engine from the heart out. Turbos would have been covered by the etc category of my previous reply. Turbos are definitely not part of either the long block or obviously short block normal definitions. That doesn't necessarily mean that they would not be covered by warranty, and depending on mileage and accessibility, if an engine is being replaced, that might be a good time to do the turbo(s) as well

Generally a long block is defined as everything except intake and exhaust manifolds, brackets etc,, and sometimes does not include valvecovers and oil pans etc Short block is as above minus the head and oil pan

obviously some loose connection somewhere. my first best guess would be to check your battery terminals for tight and clean connections, & then chassis grounds throughout. EDIT ; in theory it could be internal to be battery, but it is not likely... but just in case, be very careful and wear eye protection if you start wiggling wires in the area

Costs. $10 difference times 1 million vehicles.... Plus, in all fairness, I just changed out my original battery from a 2016, so it obviously was not grossly underpowered or a poor choice battery for the application.

I have a 2016 sport that I just installed and H7 in last week. H5 H6 and H7 only differ in length. .. and CCA.. and reserve capacity