dabangsta

It is also 2019-2023 (maybe some JOB1 2024, but it was deleted) feature, not 2015-2018.

It sprays whenever you use the rear washer, it doesn't need to be in reverse. I have had not much luck getting it to work on my 2019 though. The 2019 owners manual has information on it, but the 2021+ owners manual skips over it (they removed the front camera washer so maybe they mistakenly removed details for the rear one, but also not many details on using the rear washer either for the rear window).

So you have an Escape not an Edge. Since the Edge has never had the 1.5 that is where the confusion was.

Hopefully the need for fixes lessens the posts you make, but keep working on it, and posting what you do, like improvements, how it is growing on you. My Edge was a replacement for the Escape (2017, accident total loss) replacement for our 2000 Grand Marquis, which at around 330,000 miles just had too many little things wrong and it wasn't enjoyable to drive any more, but a solid car, easy to work on, and I wish I still had it or a newer(ish) one, I keep thinking about another one, but I will probably go a completely different direction with a JDM import like a kei truck or van.

That is the OEM factory filter that it likely rolled off the assembly line with. The "aftermarket" service replacements are labeled Motorcraft and used by the dealer for oil changes. At only 6100 miles, besides the "or a year" part how many oil changes did you expect it to have?

The 2015+ Sport and 2019+ ST exhaust ports are actually trim pieces on the bumper, and the tail pipe is just plain and exhausts through the trim bezel. Personally I think that Fords should have the round tail pipes, and Lincolns should have the trim bezels like this. That used to be one differentiator between the brands. Again, personally I find those ST exhaust ports ugly and look like someone failed geometry. The Sport ones look okay (again, personal opinion).

I would spend the time to look at all the ABS sensors and wiring, and since you can data log, show each wheels ABS speed and see if one isn't correct to help determine which one it might be. Hopefully someone can post the error code breakdown for the :56 part and what status of 2F is to help. If the ABS module is getting incorrect data it might be causing it to also set a code, I know it says it is an internal fault but if an ABS sensor is grounding (in some cases the wires are too short or too long and wear on suspension parts, in the rear I think) might cause it.

I played that game with my 2017 Escape. I had a jump box with me, and since it was only me driving it at the time (it was the wife's vehicle, but she was on 4 months bed rest) I rolled the dice. According to Ford it was down to 220 CCA (lifetime maintenance contract, so full work up every oil change at dealer) , auto start/stop was disabled, and I couldn't listen to the radio with the engine off, and SyncConnect/FordPass would go dormant within an hour of turning it off (no remote start, lock/unlock from phone app). I went that entire 4 months and never needed to jump it. Once we were going on a long trip and she was driving it again I replaced the battery.

Are you sure it is a parasitic drain that killed the battery, and not just the battery is weak? I know that you see .05-.085 amps as the limit for cars drain to be an issue, unless it has sat for 2 weeks, I don't think it would kill it over night. Many group 65 batteries (guessing on the high end, since it can have a group 65 or 59, depending on push button start/intelligent access) has a reserve capacity of 150 minutes (so it can deliver 25 amps for 150 minutes before reaching 10.5 volts). which would be more than 17 days of a .15 amp draw.

Welcome! Hopefully by battery issue you mean the 3+ year old OEM battery is finally needing replaced? I am jealous, my 2019 has been a heap of expensive issues that I now have nearly as much into as if I bought a new one in 2022 instead of a used one. Live and learn I guess.

Yeah, that adding a quart after leveling it with the sight plug removed is weird. When I checked the level on mine (not an ST so different transmission, so the reason???) it was very slightly underfilled at 90,000 miles, but I could see that it was very close to spilling some out. It wasn't 1 quart over filled.

Is it detected for proximity unlock, or do you need to press a fob button to unlock or use the emergency key to get in it? If the battery is dead, you can place the key in the emergency slot in the center console (it is at the front under the coin trays) with the buttons up and the key ring to the rear, press brake and start button and see if that works.

What model and engine? If it is the 2.0 Ecoboost engine it is about 50hp down from the MDX (but more torque at a lower rpm), the 3.5 would be similar in HP but lower in torque. The 3.7 had better of both. But HP and torque are just a part of the equation. The 2.0 is more reactive to mods and tunes. It might be more of a perception difference and more responsive shifting (tried Sport mode?) that might be able to helped with a tune, instead of just adding power. I can't find the final gearing for the Edge but I don't think it is as high as the MDX. Also you might be more likely to be running premium fuel in the MDX? There is some seat of the pants differences running premium over regular.

There is a recall on the shifter bushing. If it breaks or disconnects, then the shifter is no longer connected to the transmission, and could cause what you are reporting. You should look up recalls by VIN on the Ford or NHTSA sites to see if it is outstanding or has been done. I had my 2015 Fusion done, and it broke again, and they had a revised part for it later on. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCMN-22V413-1296.pdf It is an easy fix on most vehicles, the fix and other circumstances might make it a mobile repair, I personally would verify that is what is happening to not have to pay a $180-350 diagnostic fee, and if it isn't the recall, owe that.

There are a couple of passages out of the "front" of the engine, which is on the passenger side, that coolant would weep through if it was a waterpump leak, but a full on water pump failure, like the fins are no longer there, could make it over heat (pushing lots of coolant out of the coolant bottle), but there are more likely candidates as mentioned above.

Around town there are no hills for the "test" I ran (well one, but if it wasn't for the one, I bet elevation change over 11 miles would be 30 feet). I am still trying to get the PID for brake pressure and brake light activation setup in Torque so I can log and monitor it. I had tried a mirror on a suction cup on the back of the car because I was curious about brake light activation using ACC, but that doesn't tell me when the actual brakes are applied and to what degree. Out on the highway, with actual hills and mountains, cruise can be detrimental to mileage if you are trying. Without an eco mode, it is pretty aggressive in maintaining speed up.

I normally do not have a daily driving routine. I work from home, and I rarely drive the 2019 Edge SEL FWD with ACC around town, just on journeys away from the city, vacations, etc. My son is driving my 2012 Fusion Sport AWD, and my wife was in the hospital. So that means 3 round trips daily, 11 miles each way. It is city driving, with 5 miles of it on a 45 mph parkwayesque drive (3 stop lights, 4 lanes wide mostly). I did the first 3 days driving normally (which is to say, more aggressive than most, keeping up with traffic speeds, no coasting or hypermiling), and I averaged 19.5 mpg. I then starting using the ACC. Next 3 days my average was 22.9 (it was 23.4 but had to do some aggressive maneuvering to get away from a maniac). I still went with traffic (cruise set to 56 in the 45 segments, 46 in the 40 segments), and was never the last away from a stop, usually the first. It was much less stressful that most commutes, I still would use the gas pedal to go faster as needed, I still paid attention and was an active participant in the experience, but it helped even out my driving, and limit my speeding up to get around a car, then going faster than others, so repeating that. Also auto start/stop helps if you are trying. The temps hit 105 again so it will stop less and less, and I could watch the average go down while sitting or once back underway, but once the heat hit again, it would drop .1 or .2 sitting and I would have to baby it to get them back.

I would strongly suggest looking for some winter rated tires. The Bridgestone WeatherPeak and Michelin CrossClimate2 are all year around tires that are also 3 peak rated, and do very well in the snow, with little compromise for summer (maybe a little noisier, and you won't win any races on them). I got my daughter some dedicated winter tires and it was too much hassle to get them swapped around, so we went with the WeatherPeak. She probably gets less snow, and has a FWD Fusion. I grew up driving in severe winter conditions, moved to the desert, and forgot much of my safe winter driving habits, so when I go back to snow, I really have to watch it. I did okay with AWD and all season tires, but after driving my daughters Fusion with winter tires, it was night and day difference.

The ST has the 8F57 (the 35 and 57 are torque handling numbers, I don't think I have seen cold hard facts on that, that it is *10 nm after torque multiplication from the torque converter (so 350 nm for the 8F35 and 570 nm for the 8F57). the 380 ft lb that the ST puts out is 517nm, which seems it would be low as most torque converters do 1.5-2.5 multiplication, so who knows. The 2.0 puts out 275.

That is a soft reset, and only cycles it from on to off to on. That won't remove anything.

You should do a master reset. Settings>General>Scroll to Master Reset and do that. I think that also removes FordPass access for previous people.

The front turn signal bulb is a single filament turn only bulb. There is only a side marker light. I Don't know if it matters what level headlight it has (signature lighting or not, both are available on the SEL).

I suspect that that isn't the correct lamp, or incorrect part number. You mention a 2019 SEL V6, I assume that 2019 and SEL are correct, as the V6 is no longer available. I think that the KT4Z-13405-G is the correct one...(you have a different KT4Z-13404-G part number) for the outer left with amber turn, with combo red bulb, clear lens park (dim) and turn (bright) and red lens surround is not illuminated for parking lights. Inner lamp is only backup lamp, no illuminated surround.

I would have suspected one of the only non LED bulbs, the front turn signal bulb, as the issue. The SEL doesn't have all parts of the inner and outer tail light that lights up like the higher level tail lights.

I would suspect with all the differences in the 2019+, including the EGR cooler, that it wouldn't be an easy swap. Unless Jasper specifically states that it is the new style block, it might still have the same possible outcome. I suspect that a Ford dealer can get it in within a day or 2, and at $2600 for new long block, maybe getting it and having the repair shop replace it might be more thrifty, what is their breakdown parts versus labor? Obviously there are other things that should be replaced with new versus swapping over from the existing one (like water pump), but it shouldn't be a long list (you can look at the TSB for the parts list, and the labor of 13.3 hours, so $2600 in labor at least at the dealership, https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf).