dabangsta

Hopefully someone can post the wiring diagram for those missing modules and you can see the MS-Can bus and where it might not be terminated or open. Seems like they are all on the left side of the vehicle or the wiring is routed on that side. I had to remove the existing profile for my vehicle and rescan it to get all the modules to show up. I used a different OBD-II adapter with a switch across bluetooth and it didn't get them all.

What model, and what configuration of cluster (2 round with LCD in middle, or center speedometer and 2 LCDs on each side)? I can only assume it is the 2 LCD since the temp gauge on the other one is mechanical(ish) and below the tachometer on the left pod. In the left information center, in the Display options, One view with the circular tach has coolant temperature. You can cycle through them using up and down arrow.

Discount tire has some brands it sells exclusively, but I have not seen special models only they sell, or same models with different specs. Walmart has quite a few Walmart only models made by Goodyear, but it isn't like they are made of rope and duct tape, they are usually maybe lower mileage rated, lower temp spec, things like that. I ran them all the time on my older cars when I didn't know if the car would be around for a year or 10 years. They were just tires that were cheaper and had compromises that I was okay with. I shop around for quality and price, and have gotten tires at Discount, and tires from TireRack mounted at Discount, as well as other places. They have never done me wrong other than taking way longer to get to my car with an appointment and it taking longer, hardly unique.

That is one of the passages from the internal seal for the water pump. If the bearing/seal on the pump leaks it will first go through that passage to exit the block/front cover. Make sure you check your oil for water, and get it fixed before the other seal fails and coolant/water goes into the crank case, which will wipe out the entire engine quickly. What indications are you seeing that it is a head gasket? Combustion/pressure test of the cooling system? A cylinder with coolant in it? Just losing coolant? While it is a lot of work to replace the water pump, it is easier than the head gasket(s).

They should be fine. They should be same width with slightly different offset, but it depends on what model and FWD vs AWD. SE FWD was available with 17 aluminum wheels, but if it is AWD it has larger rotors (doesn't need to be a Sport to have the larger rotors). 18 should be the smallest for AWD. What size is your temp spare? I know they are narrower and face can be contoured differently, but should be telling. Why not bolt them down with at least 3 lugs? 5mm of clearance with the brake caliper should be fine, unless there is interference with the back of the wheel and the face of the caliper or bracket, but these steel wheels don't seem contoured to cause that.

Unfortunately it looks like 2019+ owners manual wasn't updated for exterior bulbs from previous generation. It still shows halogen headlamps and HID available (and DRL), that turn bulb (which is a turn only) also is shown as the older one.

I am sure that being easier on it (not going to red line every shift, letting it shift early, not sustained high rpms for a long time, etc), in a moderate environment helps a lot. I drive mine like I stole it, every stop light, every stop sign, every entrance onto the interstate is full throttle (really put that AWD to the test). I also live where we had 112 days of 100+ degrees, 48 of 105+ this year, so it can't be great on cooling systems or oiling, or transmissions. I don't drive my Edge much and it is the first vehicle I have had that as had a pretty early big failure (transmission at 90k miles), I tend to maintain them but drive them closer to their limits than most.

How many miles are on it? I only have 140,000 miles on my current 3.5 powered vehicle (2012 Fusion Sport), but unless it has 200,000 miles, I wouldn't consider a water pump change a scheduled or a normal replacement item, and pay between $2000-$4500 to have it changed before it shows some indication of an issue. I had over 180,000 miles on my last 3.5 powered car and never had an issue with the water pump. I check my coolant and oil once a week at least, I don't have the under engine plate so I would see coolant on the ground. I have maintained the cooling system a little more than I normally would but not too much so. Most water pumps will eventually fail during the lifetime of a vehicle. This one is internal to the front cover, and has a couple of additional gaskets. Most leaks will go out weep holes in the cover and be externally visible (like if the bearing/seal fails), but for sure there are failure modes that will dump coolant into the crank case, and if not caught immediately will take out the engine. FWD would be transmission only, no PTU or rear diff/RDU, but if you look at others that are AWD for sure.

I am glad it works out for you and assists you, thank you for your service! I think I am the only veteran in my immediate circle that doesn't draw some level of disability. My neighbor is 50% for sleep apnea, my brother in law for sleep apnea and back issues at 80%. It is funny (ironic maybe) to hear they use a CPAP because it phones home and if they don't use it they might lose benefits. I see some that their only assistance is the VA and I thought my health care was bad, in regards to being seen or level of care. I got jerked around when I got out, and really didn't want anything to with the bureaucracy of it all. I am proud I served, and don't shy away from that, but having sub par work done while in, fixed on paper while still broken, no thanks. I decided I might get my Veterans ID for free admission to national parks, that is about as far as I will go. Pretty sure stuff from the Gulf War (fatigue, chronic muscle pain, attention span, sleep, etc) and my severe hearing loss are related to my time served.

It won't be anything like a manual transmissioned vehicle, and manually shifting it will help, but not be the same. Sport mode also helps. I have 92,000 miles on my OEM brakes, and I did some serious mountain passes with a lot of traffic, and I smoked my brakes the first couple of times (serious chatter after one extreme slow down session), but once I used Sport mode, added a little following distance, I didn't have an issue again. I bow down to anyone that can wear out brakes in months and not using it on a track.

It is also 2019-2023 (maybe some JOB1 2024, but it was deleted) feature, not 2015-2018.

It sprays whenever you use the rear washer, it doesn't need to be in reverse. I have had not much luck getting it to work on my 2019 though. The 2019 owners manual has information on it, but the 2021+ owners manual skips over it (they removed the front camera washer so maybe they mistakenly removed details for the rear one, but also not many details on using the rear washer either for the rear window).

So you have an Escape not an Edge. Since the Edge has never had the 1.5 that is where the confusion was.

Hopefully the need for fixes lessens the posts you make, but keep working on it, and posting what you do, like improvements, how it is growing on you. My Edge was a replacement for the Escape (2017, accident total loss) replacement for our 2000 Grand Marquis, which at around 330,000 miles just had too many little things wrong and it wasn't enjoyable to drive any more, but a solid car, easy to work on, and I wish I still had it or a newer(ish) one, I keep thinking about another one, but I will probably go a completely different direction with a JDM import like a kei truck or van.

That is the OEM factory filter that it likely rolled off the assembly line with. The "aftermarket" service replacements are labeled Motorcraft and used by the dealer for oil changes. At only 6100 miles, besides the "or a year" part how many oil changes did you expect it to have?

The 2015+ Sport and 2019+ ST exhaust ports are actually trim pieces on the bumper, and the tail pipe is just plain and exhausts through the trim bezel. Personally I think that Fords should have the round tail pipes, and Lincolns should have the trim bezels like this. That used to be one differentiator between the brands. Again, personally I find those ST exhaust ports ugly and look like someone failed geometry. The Sport ones look okay (again, personal opinion).

I would spend the time to look at all the ABS sensors and wiring, and since you can data log, show each wheels ABS speed and see if one isn't correct to help determine which one it might be. Hopefully someone can post the error code breakdown for the :56 part and what status of 2F is to help. If the ABS module is getting incorrect data it might be causing it to also set a code, I know it says it is an internal fault but if an ABS sensor is grounding (in some cases the wires are too short or too long and wear on suspension parts, in the rear I think) might cause it.

I played that game with my 2017 Escape. I had a jump box with me, and since it was only me driving it at the time (it was the wife's vehicle, but she was on 4 months bed rest) I rolled the dice. According to Ford it was down to 220 CCA (lifetime maintenance contract, so full work up every oil change at dealer) , auto start/stop was disabled, and I couldn't listen to the radio with the engine off, and SyncConnect/FordPass would go dormant within an hour of turning it off (no remote start, lock/unlock from phone app). I went that entire 4 months and never needed to jump it. Once we were going on a long trip and she was driving it again I replaced the battery.

Are you sure it is a parasitic drain that killed the battery, and not just the battery is weak? I know that you see .05-.085 amps as the limit for cars drain to be an issue, unless it has sat for 2 weeks, I don't think it would kill it over night. Many group 65 batteries (guessing on the high end, since it can have a group 65 or 59, depending on push button start/intelligent access) has a reserve capacity of 150 minutes (so it can deliver 25 amps for 150 minutes before reaching 10.5 volts). which would be more than 17 days of a .15 amp draw.

Welcome! Hopefully by battery issue you mean the 3+ year old OEM battery is finally needing replaced? I am jealous, my 2019 has been a heap of expensive issues that I now have nearly as much into as if I bought a new one in 2022 instead of a used one. Live and learn I guess.

Yeah, that adding a quart after leveling it with the sight plug removed is weird. When I checked the level on mine (not an ST so different transmission, so the reason???) it was very slightly underfilled at 90,000 miles, but I could see that it was very close to spilling some out. It wasn't 1 quart over filled.

Is it detected for proximity unlock, or do you need to press a fob button to unlock or use the emergency key to get in it? If the battery is dead, you can place the key in the emergency slot in the center console (it is at the front under the coin trays) with the buttons up and the key ring to the rear, press brake and start button and see if that works.

What model and engine? If it is the 2.0 Ecoboost engine it is about 50hp down from the MDX (but more torque at a lower rpm), the 3.5 would be similar in HP but lower in torque. The 3.7 had better of both. But HP and torque are just a part of the equation. The 2.0 is more reactive to mods and tunes. It might be more of a perception difference and more responsive shifting (tried Sport mode?) that might be able to helped with a tune, instead of just adding power. I can't find the final gearing for the Edge but I don't think it is as high as the MDX. Also you might be more likely to be running premium fuel in the MDX? There is some seat of the pants differences running premium over regular.

There is a recall on the shifter bushing. If it breaks or disconnects, then the shifter is no longer connected to the transmission, and could cause what you are reporting. You should look up recalls by VIN on the Ford or NHTSA sites to see if it is outstanding or has been done. I had my 2015 Fusion done, and it broke again, and they had a revised part for it later on. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCMN-22V413-1296.pdf It is an easy fix on most vehicles, the fix and other circumstances might make it a mobile repair, I personally would verify that is what is happening to not have to pay a $180-350 diagnostic fee, and if it isn't the recall, owe that.

There are a couple of passages out of the "front" of the engine, which is on the passenger side, that coolant would weep through if it was a waterpump leak, but a full on water pump failure, like the fins are no longer there, could make it over heat (pushing lots of coolant out of the coolant bottle), but there are more likely candidates as mentioned above.