dabangsta

I use a floor jack and use the connectors for the front and rear "frames" to the unibody "frame rail" that runs the length between the wheels, maybe near what used to be called the torque box? I had jack stands that had the slot for the pinch weld but they failed and all the new ones no longer have a slot, so I need to come up with a solution like you need, but I don't have rust issues.

Funny you should say that. I am 5'11" and my wife is 4'11". I have to save the limit to open slightly lower than max for her on the Edge. On our 2017 Escape I had to set it 8 inches down from the max, and it was right where my eyeball would be skewered on the corner (and it happened every time...) The hatches open completely different between the two vehicles. I am guessing due to the more extreme angle of the Edge back window/hatch and the more upright hatch and window on the Escape. I fell all the lost space in the Edge with the angle of the back window.

Looks great!

This was at 40k miles in my 2015 Fusion: My 2017 Escape was the same. The Fusion suffers from the 1-2 harsh shift (mostly when cold), the Escape the transmission shifted like butter, no issues up to 97,000 when it was wrecked.

Mercon LV has a very dark color package to it (unlike Mercon V which is bright red), and it is very common for it to be very dark even after as low as 30k miles. Ford had an SSM in 2009 when more vehicles started using Mercon LV that is normal and color should not be the only thing used to determine transmission health. I did my first drain on a 6F35 at 40k miles and thought I drained the crankcase instead. As you mention it doesn't smell burnt, sounds like it is normal Mercon LV fluid. To do a close to 100% drain you have to perform the drain and refill 3 times. I just did a single drain/refill at 40k, 60k, and 80k. Still well ahead of the normal scheduled maintenance for normal use.

I would rather have what meets the requirements than insist on it be made by Motorcraft, and unless the universal coolant says it meets the specification, I would skip it as well. If Yellow was to be used in place of Gold, that document would say so, but what it does say is specifically it does not supersede any other coolant than Orange and Specialty Green, it is not approved for replacing Gold. Any engine family that has specific cooling issues I wouldn't deal with. Ford dealer thought that my 1997 Cougar should have Orange since the at time current Cougar used Orange. If you have ever seen Orange mixed with other coolant, and the goop it turns into (or non distilled water), I wouldn't try my own substitutions.

Engine would help also, as there are 2 engine/transmission combos available (2.0 with the 6F35 and the 3.5 with the 6F50). However I don't know of any common issues for either one that matches what you are reporting, however that is a common transmission problem in general. There are some TSBs on earlier Edges equipped with the 6F50 that might be similar.

I don't see how Yellow is a replacement for Gold. My 2019 has it, and if I wanted I would use it in my 2012 Fusion Sport (3.5 with Orange), but not for my older vehicle that came with Gold. Plenty of Dex-cool coolants that meet the Ford spec for Orange.

Whoa, that is cool. I hope to never ever have to avail myself of this. They didn't seem to indicate any of this for the airbag recall on my Fusion.

Isn't that a Lincoln thing?

The Motorcraft carpet and all weather ones show the same part number for 2018-2023. I would love to trade my 2019 OEM optional all weather for carpeted ones, desert living negates the need for them (however nearly all CA and AZ delivered vehicles I looked at Edge and Explorer had the optional all weather ones).

P0456 right? What year? what engine? There is probably a more technical board this could go in more related to your engine or year, but it would help to include it anyways, most create a signature with all the details.

Unless they don't have an Android or Apple phone, I don't think that in car nav is great, and all the features from the phone navigation is way better. If it was needed for things like self driving or other things, then maybe, but it would hard to trust. Since it SYNC 4/4a and wireless, don't even need to connect it, and if it has the wireless charging pad, all the better. I don't mind plugging in my phone every time I use the vehicle. I updated mine with the latest maps, and tried to use it, and tried to be fair, but it just doesn't cut it. Maybe if you need things like always north at the top, or where gas stations were 3 years ago, it is okay. I watched my father try to navigate to a destination on unfamiliar streets with the built in navigation on his 2020 Explorer. It was terrible. It was mildly outdated (at least 3 times it didn't know of a new turn added), it kept wanting him go past the turn and do a u-turn, which made him think he had to do a u-turn from the current turn, which was a double turn, and he was outside, and it didn't have as up to date closures, speed traps, and notifications about stalled vehicles or debris in the road.

I think that is too generic of a name for it, there are at least 2 lines at the evaporator.

Does it say "No key detected" when it won't start when you press Start and have one of the IA keys in the cabin? If it doesn't, and putting the key in the backup slot in the console (with the buttons facing back and the key ring at the top) doesn't help, then it doesn't sound like the interior proximity issue. Do you have any added electronics, like a dash cam, radar detector, or USB power plugged into a 12v socket?

Are you sure they are HID? HID are optional and only available with the 302a group with the Titanium (the most obvious other included item is the Enhance Park Assist and front camera). I thought I would like the LED headlights that are standard in my 2019, but I would rather have HID. A properly functioning HID setup is much better for your vision and for not blinding on coming traffic. I had very diminished light output with a very early HID vehicle after 8 years, and replacing the bulbs restored 90% of that (the other 10 was 8 year old reflector and hazed lenses). I tried upgrading to more modern bulb and ballast/ignitor, but the light output was not in the correct place.

I wouldn't use the USB ports for charging a phone, they seem to only do a max of .5 amps. However I do use Android Auto and Apple Carplay, so the phones need to be plugged into those ports for use. Most of the time my Android phone has a lower battery charged percentage when I get to where I am going than it started with. On my 6+ hour drives I have to make sure I have enough battery left. However it is charging, and it is connected data wise. I will have to check rate with the wireless pad, and I always place my phone in that cubby but I am sure wired "charging" and not wireless charging is done when plugged in and on the pad. Driver uses the USB ports and sticks their phone in the cubby: Passenger uses a 12v PD/QC3 charger in the 12v socket on the side of the console (poor position for it, always gets kicked).

You have 2 of the issues listed for the TSB, low coolant and a DTC for a misfire. That much coolant loss in a month is probably excessive. The action is having one of the affected vehicles (you do), 2.0 (you do), and presence of coolant in the engine cylinders. I think with your 2 issues that is enough to get them to look at it, they should first do a 5 hour pressure test, if it fails, then scope the cylinder for proof of coolant entering cylinder(s). I don't know if CPO warranty is the same as the "New Vehicle Limited Warranty" which they just do the work without requiring a prior approval or cost cap. With only 3000 miles remaining, you don't have the luxury of refilling the coolant and seeing what happens, I don't know what all you need to do to get it documented with the current mileage and symptoms if they can't get it in in a reasonable time. My dealer told me I should get pictures of the mileage, Email her, text message her, every way to contact her so she had a paper trail.

There is no easy way to program in a second key/fob for starting if you only have one. There are ways to do it with a program called "ForScan" on a computer and an obd-ii connector. Both the IKT (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter) or the smart IA (Intelligent Access) keys require 2 so you can add one. Programming in the remote access (unlock/lock/panic) is easy to do since when you do that, you have to program in all remotes at the same time, but the key security requires 2 existing keys.

When you called them, did they tell you that they: transferred the existing sensor from the old wheel to the new wheel installed a new one thought the new wheel had one didn't know they needed to If it hasn't found it in a couple of 2+ minute drives over 20 mph, it isn't going to find it. If there is a new one, it might need to be enabled, I am pretty sure that it doesn't need done. I put 4 new tires/wheels with new sensors, and once it was driven a couple of times the sensors initialized and were detected. I know that I can use Torque and an OBD-II adapter to get the pressures on my 2017 Escape, I haven't tried my 2012 Fusion, and my 2019 Edge shows them in the dash. While I agree it isn't a direct safety issue in the short term, I wouldn't want to drive with it on, or more annoyingly, blinking, and sorta defeats the purpose of it, and I wouldn't want to get used to a light being on, then you ignore others, or if there is really an issue with a tire.

Is it a solid light, or a blinking light? I wonder if they transferred over the TPMS sensor from the old wheel to the new one, installed a new one, and didn't initialize it, or there isn't one there.

Dorman and others also have aftermarket replacements for ~$150 as well. I had decent luck with a Dorman replacement on a Fusion, it lasted longer than the factory one.

So...you are at part throttle (like 20-40%), and the engine is jerky, and it does this from take off and through shifting to 2nd then 3rd? Do you let off the gas or "cruise" (10% throttle to maintain speed) and it keeps shifting up to 8th? Is the check engine light on solid or blinking, or does it do this when it is running rough?

I suppose that if maintenance was lacking or an internal issue that causes a lot of metal or other contaminants, it could clog all 4 VVT solenoids at the same time. I also wonder if low pressure could cause the same thing all at the same time. Both banks jumping time is a possibility also. I would guess that removing a VVT solenoid to check it would be the easiest thing to help narrow down the issue.

Are they 17 inch wheels? Is it hitting the barrel of the wheel or the back of the spokes? While they have similar offsets to have similar backspacings per width, I don't know the specs of all of them. I know that some Mustang wheels (including the ones I got for my 2012 Fusion) have odd shaped backs of the spokes and they can contact the brake calipers or mounting brackets in some uses (some Mustang brake setups, or used on other things like Crown Vics). I am running a 3mm spacer to get the rim away from the suspension and the brake caliper.