dabangsta

The SecuriCode keypad underwent some weird changes the last few years. 2021 it was standard on SEL and higher 2022 it was standard on ST-Line, Titanium, and ST (now optional on the SEL in the Convenience Package) 2023-2024 it was no longer available on any trim level I have had this on many of my cars since my 1997 Mark VIII and use it frequently, to this day, even with proximity unlock (Intelligent Access). I don't use it as frequently with my Edge, but my wife does (unfortunately). She locks the vehicle with it instead of the IA handle touch. She will eventually lock the keys in it (you can't with IA) and she doesn't know the code. I use FordPass on my fitness watch that connects to my phone in the cabin to unlock it when I leave everything in it, but it is handy and a backup I use enough to remember my code.

I can understand the power button not turning off the display since that is your only way to get to things like climate control, but if you are listening to the radio and push the volume button it doesn't turn off the radio? The owners manual shows that as how you turn off audio, I remember doing it when I was testing vehicles (I didn't want the 2023 I tried, but wanted to compare to the 2019 I wanted).

Hmm, I get close to 50/50 just taking off from a stop light aggressively on dry roads with my 2012 Fusion, and it will never be more than that, being front wheel biased and all. The 2019 ST Supplement document has a little more information on states of TC, ESC, and RSC but no more details on what it actually means. Again, nothing about AWD and without affecting TC I don't think it affects AWD that much, but maybe it does.

It likely allows a little more wheel spin and side to side slip before applying brakes, allowing more over/understeer before correcting. I don't understand how AWD would be more active. You mean applying more or less power to the rear on power application or slip?

You mentioned 2019+ so I looked in my 2019 PDF version of the manual and it has the details. The HTML and PDF versions of 2024 is lacking those details, it seems to be missing from the 2021+ manuals (I guess since it is an ST only feature?). But is in the HTML version for 2019 and 2020: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=7056&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1953031&ProcUid=G1953033&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web

It is documented in the owners manual in the stability control section, how to do it, and what it does (and not to use on public roadways heh).

My 2017 Escape with the 1.5 had a similar TSB/CSP for the coolant intrusion issue, and after seeing quite a few reports of it, it did make me start to sweat as the miles and years piled up, even though I had the initial CSP work done that extended my warranty, and I had an extended warranty. I didn't have any issues, and the vehicle was a total loss due to an accident at 98,000 miles (and it was sold and is driving around Mexico to this day). I don't know of any of the TSBs for the 2016 engine that extend the warranty to 10 years. But when I was shopping for its replacement, that made me look hard at 2019+ Edge instead of a 2015-2018. I thought I really wanted the 2.0 for better fuel mileage, but not the possible coolant intrusion issue. I think the 2019 is a good vehicle but in retrospect I would probably be good with a 2015-2018 with the 3.5, as I get similar fuel mileage in my 3.5 powered car as I do with my Edge. My 2019 is equipped the way I would have built it if new other than it has the pano roof, and the new for that year adaptive cruise with stop and go and lane centering has become one of my favorite features.

Those things are terrible, and there really isn't a good solution. There are people that sell just the cladding/covers on eBay for a silly amount of money ($150-$250 each). MACT has a couple of videos of the standard 18 inch clad wheels and removing the cladding, cleaning up the adhesive, and painting them black body color (could do sparkly silver wheel paint or black). part 1: part 2:

Does it use the OEM USB plug ins/hub, or does it have it's own USB ports? Does the phone at least show it is charging or that a USB MTP connection is active when plugged in?

I have always relied on PATS and undesirable vehicles as deterrents, but I guess that isn't enough. Sorry to hear about that happening.

An LOC to get from speaker level to line in, safely routed big gauge power wire, 2 subs in a box with an amp? I don't think I have seen an integrated 2 12 inch powered sub setup before, most are 8 inch and single. I remember taking up half my trunk for subs, and my 9 speaker setup in my 2019 SEL is lacking, but I would drive my family nuts with it anyways. My 2012 Fusion has the 390w with subs and surround, it lacks the the punch of larger subs, but it is okay.

With my 2017 Escape with the 1.5 I consistently seemed to lose about 1mpg on most highway trips with the cross bars (nothing else) on. It is so small that it is hard to substantiate but I think I over the various trips I did with and without, I could detect a loss of mpg. My Edge has the pano roof so no rails.

Which engine? The 3.5 has Select Shift on the shifter knob (the 2.0 has grade assist I think instead). I think it is harder to find since only the Sport got paddle shifters for that year/range (for the OP and mine AWD vehicles got it, 2015-2018 it was standard).

If I lived where corrosion was an issue, I wouldn't have cheaped out and gotten the lowest end ones. But I live in the desert, and I only have to worry about ham fisted techs when they install new tires (or if I have to take it back for rotations for the warranty). I have rotated mine twice since installing the new lug nuts, and had 2 flats, and they remain tight, thread on and off easily, and haven't rusted.

SYNC2 software revision 3.10 doesn't mean you have SYNC 3. You still have SYNC with MyFord Touch (SYNC 2) and doesn't mean that CarPlay will now work.

That doesn't seem right. The LED bulb should have chips on 2 sides, and should be oriented with the LED chips to the sides at the 3 and 9 positions. I have never seen a single sided LED (some 360 degree, and some front facing) headlight replacements. I think you have the mechanism wrong. In low beam mode it actually rises and blocks the lower part of the reflector, blocking the light that would be coming out of the top of the projector lens. In high beam it is just not blocking any light.

What year and model and options is the vehicle? What bulbs do you have (H11, 9005, 9007, H7, H9)? If it is bi-xenon then you are replacing HID bulbs with LED (I am not familiar with all the Lincoln offerings, and not all Edge either for that matter). If the bulbs have LEDs on each side, then it should be straight up and down with one side at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock. If the LEDs have a "low" side and a "high" side (which they shouldn't since I doubt this is a dual filament setup) then there should be instructions but these are for reflector headlights and are shielded.

I think more to the point that non fuel related items got replaced. A 2010 still has an emergency fuel pump shut off switch, was that checked? It has a fuel pump diode with a fuse in addition to the relay and fuse for the pump. Did you check for the proper signal and 12v to the fuel pump at the relay? I assume you don't hear the relay click or the fuel pump when turning the key to on.

Thanks for adding the images! I would have thought the rears would be less gap as the EPB usually causes more clearance issues on other vehicles. Unrelated to the spare fitment with ST Performance brakes mostly, I have debated going further than just the larger front rotors (I think FWD and AWD use the same caliper and pads, but a different caliper mount, which seems like the radius of the pads would be odd) and possibly going for the 345mm rotors all around, with the brake calipers in the front with the larger pistons. I don't think it would affect things like the adaptive cruise or emergency braking (it doesn't just blindly apply brakes, it could tell that it might be stopping better and lower the effort). I just don't think I drive the vehicle enough around town to do the work. It is my wife's daily driver, I generally only drive it on the highway on vacations. Should doesn't think it needs new brakes, let alone better ones, and she is really not into red painted calipers. The brakes it has are more than adequate for daily driving and panic braking. I tend to get them to fade most times I drive so I usually have to replace them more frequently and also usually try to do OEM style upgrades (like 13 inch Cobra rotors to replace 10.8 inch rotors on my Lincoln Mark VIII).

I hope you get a reply from someone that has tried it and not just speculating (like me...). I want to upgrade my front brakes on my FWD 2019 SEL to the larger AWD rotor and calipers. The rotors are the same size as the ST/ST Performance (345mm...and are 25mm larger than the Focus ST...) and I need to upgrade my 17 inch spare to 18 inch. Other than the calipers have 2mm larger pistons (than the standard brakes) and painted, I don't think there is that much difference in the size. More the difference in the rotor style. The order guide says that the inflator kit is substituted due to the summer tires, and not the brakes.

So in looking for a steering wheel used, I can't find one that has adaptive cruise and paddle shifters. But it seems like I only need the rear trim piece, the electronic switches and harness. That all will bolt up to my existing 2019 wheel and the trim piece has the cut outs for them? The more I drive it in the mountains the more I miss manual shift ability. Did you take any pictures of the work you did? Did the wiring to the switches need to be inserted into a connector did the harness for them snap into an unused spot?

Same here. If the car is off, irregardless of the position of the light switch those lights are off. With the car in "accessory" (push start without pushing brakes), On, and accessory delay those lights are on, irregardless of the light switch position.

They don't illuminate on my 2019, and I don't think they should. They are not functional until in accessory or run (or delay).

It does have a filter, and while it isn't user serviceable it is more like ones that are, not just a screen in between the case halves, but at bottom of the pump.

I would be suspect about a transmission fluid that was both V and low viscosity. I had another vehicle that had the same transmission that first used Mercon, then Mercon V (which was back spec'ed for Mercon), and finally Mercon LV. I don't think anything changed as far as programming or friction material, but still with as many issues as these transmissions sometimes have, putting the incorrect fluid seems counter productive. Generally Mercon LV is also Dexron VI spec (both low viscosity), and Mercon V is Dexron III. I am sure it much more compatible than SP.