dabangsta

The ST caliper brackets are hard(er) to find except at the dealer. I Priced it all out and I just wasn't sold on the cost vs gain. Just the standard ST vs the Performance Brake package brakes. I haven't tried, but I don't see why you couldn't do that on a 2018, the ST front caliper, rotors, or even the rear larger and vented rotors and calipers. The front ST calipers have 4mm larger pistons (x2 for each caliper), I doubt it is enough to require any other changes like master cylinder with more capacity, but I don't know. The rotors I got are inverted hat rotors like the standard ST brakes have, and the Performance Package ones are conventional (like my smaller original rotors). I used the tech specs document, VINs for AWD, ST, ST w/perf brakes I found on vehicles for sale, and parts.ford.com to come up with my plan and parts list (things like the same caliper and pads for both sized rotors, for example). I couldn't find a good tech spec document for 2018 (only found 2015, with less info than 2019). 2019 Edge Tech Specs.pdf

Are we talking about an iPhone or an Edge? It charges at a much higher rate than 12.8v, and will be 14.xxv until any little load is put on it. 80% of an AGM battery is 12.25v

They are much better than the partially worn 96,000 miles ones that they replaced. The little shimmy I was getting before is gone. The slight noise is gone. I haven't really had a chance to emergency type stop test them. I did some moderate braking and sitting in park to not leave hot spots on the rotors, and I tested adaptive cruise but not stop and go cruise. I feel that they are better than the smaller ones. I don't like in a mountainous region but that is where the original ones were taxed. 1 fairly heavy braking session caused them to violently shake next time they got used. I learned from my mistake and use Sport mode and more gap, and stopped using adaptive cruise, as it really does heavy braking when needed. If I was really going for improved brakes for heavier use situations, and not for daily driving with occasional heavy braking, if it wasn't my wife's daily driver, but my daily or weekend driver, I would have done ST calipers and slotted and drilled rotors and pads that need warmed up to work. But I get about 40,000 miles out of pads on those, and after 60k the rotors need replaced. Averaging 25,000 miles a year on the daily driver I don't want to do brakes every 1.5 years. Well worth the update with a normal brake change. Could the fronts have gone another 60k miles? Yes! They were starting to fade as mentioned, and not doing well with excessive braking (which my other vehicle with more aggressive setup handles just fine). I don't think it was the rears only causing the issues. I wouldn't take 20k brakes off and do this.

Any other indicators of a weak battery? If the chime is no longer coming from the sound system but from the instrument cluster that sometimes can be the first indicator of a battery issue. I would get that, then I would get no auto start/stop, and the radio turning off with battery saver message trying to sit and listen to the radio with the engine off.

Larger front brake rotor swap (and rear brake refresh), own thread in Brakes. Ordered parts to make up for some of the decontenting, trying to fix my fluttering hood, and a fitted micro fiber center console cover...because it is frequently too hot, to slick, and so tall I can't not use it. I wish I had a plan to get rid of all that piano black trim in the center console, because it blinds me every day. I can't use the pano roof because of it.

I forgot to wait for the 18 inch spare to arrive, but if I have a flat on the front the next 2 days, I will put the spare on the back (which I would likely do with a FWD vehicle anyways). Work is done, 5 hours, because I have no power tools, no lift, and ADHD so I scrubbed and details the back of the rims, the suspension, the brakes, the chassis, etc. It was the little things that kicked my butt. Replacing the rear caliper boots and slides, with the lower having the hard plastic, was a PITA. I didn't pay enough attention to the FWD being rear vented, and AWD being front vented. I didn't change the brake backing pad. The magic that makes it happen, left is the FWD caliper bracket, right is the AWD bracket: The different rotors: There was way more rust than I am used to, with a CA and AZ car. but still pretty easy to work on. The money shot: No chance the 17 inch spare will fit The real reason I dug into the brakes. Rear had 2-3mm left. It was starting to shake on normal braking, not just emergency or heavy braking coming down a mountain pass. Fronts has a ton of life left, but I couldn't see just doing the rear, and I wanted the larger brakes So far just drove it enough to sorta bed in the brakes. These are already burnt in (they smelled like I rode them down a mountain pass, still in the box), I didn't do any emergency braking, I did test out adaptive cruise but not the stop part of it. Just staring to wear through the coating A tool I used on a 2000 Ford Expedition, where the rotor hat is the same exact size as the hub, and the rust weld themselves together. Why beat the crap out of something when you can use leverage. This temporary tool had been used on quite a few rusted on rotors and works like a champ. As a temporary one use tool I didn't do enough to it, I need to get rid of the first 3 or 4 rows of threads because the end gets boogered up, but easy enough to clean up.

Most 18 inch wheels should fit fine, performance brakes or not (they are not any larger in diameter, but both ST calipers are different than other models). Someone posted a 17 18 inch temporary spare fitting their ST, however they are usually much narrower than a road wheel. You should trial fit them on the front watching for brake caliper to rim interference, as I personally have not tried this combo, hopefully someone else will chime in. Tirerack has winter tire and wheel packages, they say that 18 inch wheels and tires should fit. I personally would be on the lookout for some OEM take offs from any 2015+ Edge (or 2013+ Fusion, 2013+ Escape, but they can be narrower, which can be a bonus for winter tires.) Taller tires (on smaller rims) are a bonus when it comes to hidden pot holes and curbs in the snow.

So this will finally happen! I am still waiting for the front caliper brackets to match the larger rotors, but Saturday is the day I hope! These front rotors are beefy. It is a daily driver for my wife, and it also gets about 20,000 miles a year, so I didn't go with drilled and slotted, or aggressive pads. I do drive it from time to time so I will appreciate the larger front brakes I hope. I don't really need the coated rotors either, I live in the desert and rust is not really an issue, but for the cost difference, I went with them. I do have pretty good luck with Power Stop brake parts, so I hope that continues. $453 after shipping, $388 after $65 rebate. It is actually cheaper than the above screen shot since they have the same components in a kit, and I added slide pins and boots, and still cheaper. Shipping was $53 because it came from 2 different places, that 5% off discount of $20 didn't cover the shipping like it usually does. Still $100 cheaper than I can get it locally, with the $35 in shipping for the rotors (the shipping for the brackets is $15). The 2 sizes of Hex key/sockets that no set ever has? 7mm and 11mm, so got those: The FedEx guy hates me, 160 pounds of boxes! Why 160 pounds? Well, doing the brakes on my daughters 2015 Fusion as well, at 105,000 miles the rear pads are at 2mm, fronts have enough, but she does a lot of mountain pass driving and cooks them. A little meat on the pads will help with that a bit. I also had to do the normal RockAuto shuffle of adding and removing stuff to get the shipping costs down. It was actually cheaper to order the transmission fluid and air and cabin filters, it knocked $45 off the cost of shipping (adding $38 in parts that will be used, not just tossed in randomly). So her brakes all around will be $200 after rebate. She got quoted $550 for the rear only.

It can be completely DIY, you can gather up the APIM and screen, the face plate (with the heated seats buttons), install them yourself, program them yourself (using Forscan). As far as the heated seats, not sure what all would be required besides the seats.

It isn't the PCM taking out the coils, it is the plugs and/or coils that destroy the drivers on the PCM. If the plugs are worn out, if a coil fails in certain ways, it destroys the driver circuit on the board. There are companies such as circuitboardmedics that take in your PCM and fix them for $300 + 425 for 6 coils and spark plugs (which extends the warranty period on the PCM). Not cheap, but not $2450.

missed quoting specific post replying to, but I can't delete this.

The second part of that humanized here is a cookie you did it conversion of small steps in the owners manual is the using the learning mode from the openers motor and not the remote. I had success using that method without access to the garage door remote.

Or step 3. It is the current functionality for some reason, and a loss of functionality for some reason. I found that location while vehicle was in motion was the most useful part of FordPass. Now I don't know when my wife is 1 hour away and I need to clean up the house and hide the beer bottles and microwave meal trays.

On my 2019 Edge SEL I can get to the sight plug with it on the ground on all four tires. I think I turned the wheel one way to help, that didn't seem to change the levelness. With my 2015 Fusion I measure the top of the wheel well, pull the wheel/tire, and just leave it on the jack to that level but with the following...I already have the plug out with it higher on a jack stand, then I drop it on the jack only to the measured height, once it is up to temp and properly filled, I jack it back up and put it on a stand and then insert the plug.

And we used to use whale oil. If you have to use 50 weight or even 20w50 oil in a modern engine not on the surface of the sun (or the Middle East) it probably shouldn't be run. Can't be too stuck in the past. When Ford back specced 5w20 to many cars that used 5w30, I started using it. I didn't have excessive consumption at 300,000 miles, it didn't leak, it didn't do anything it wasn't supposed to. I did go back to 5w30 because it was easier to find and I got such inconsistent fuel mileage due to no set driving pattern I couldn't say if it helped that or not. It was never noisy, never sounded like a sewing machine, no rattle at cold start, no puff of smoke after sitting. I would dig into the excessive consumption, probably on the right path with the PCV.

The dealer would only be installing the hitch and lighting adapter, and your published tow limit is 1500 pounds. You say getting "Factory Install" in your title but you would be getting a dealer install of some OEM parts like the hitch and light wiring adapter, but it isn't the tow package, which in addition to sway control also has better/different cooling (at least the radiator fans and controller). The swap control is what increases the towing limit, it has to pass certain tests before it can be rated, time to speed from stop, time to stop from a speed, and handling when stopping, which the sway control does.

2/32 - 3/32 difference should be okay. Anything more you might end up with AWD disabled. Tirerack and other places will shave a new tire to match the existing ones, but not all places can.

I wasn't willing to pay $40+ for this, so I found the connectors and made my own for much less, without messing with the wiring in my vehicle (old me would have used t-taps). Dongar shows 2021+ and SEL or higher (with auto dimming mirror, but all models have it starting in 2019). So this connector under (well, over) the plastic cover in front of the rear view mirror is 6 pins on yours?

In my state OBD-II (1996 and newer) is plugged in and uses onboard diagnostics for pass/fail. Only older vehicles are put on a dyno and tailpipe sniffed. If it isn't throwing a code, and isn't showing too many tests not completed, then it passes. Legend has it that CA has sniffers along roads and can fail cars? I don't know if I believe that or not.

I remember the questions on how a PCM update could affect coolant intrusion on the 1.5 in the Escape, and many didn't get it done. Fast forward to them getting coolant intrusion and not being eligible for the one time block replacement because they didn't get the PCM update (it was speculated that they were going to lower the boost and other things). I guess that SSM had more details, that it kept the electric coolant pump going longer after shut down, but still I made sure I got it done. I guess this one and caring if emissions output is worse than it should be matters.

Without the factory tow package, your vehicle can pull a max of 1500 pounds. The smallest enclosed UHaul trailer is 850 pounds (4x8) so that means 650 pounds properly packed cargo (so that you have ~150 pound tongue weight). The smallest 4x7 utility trailer weighs 630 pounds, so 870 pounds load. Dealer installing it doesn't make it have tow package. Looking at the price it is likely the hitch that requires trimming of the rear fascia, but it also won't hang down lower than the bumper for a cleaner look. I don't think any aftermarket ones do that. Seems pricy to me, but I would do the work myself (I haven't installed a hitch yet on my 2019, but I have installed them on my Escape and Grand Marquis in the past) and possibly would spring for the through rear fascia one to look a little cleaner. Much cheaper ones are available aftermarket, and saving $750 by going with a different brand and installer seems like a no brainer, They install a lot of hitches, I guess you could get a bad installer, but these are all no drill, drop the fascia and muffler installs, less than an hour.

So just like the owners manual states, it isn't actively steering, it just reduces the effort needed to actually steer if you do that. I am too chicken to try it out, I try to experience all emergency drivers aids like ABS (one side tires in gravel, other side on pavement, for example), and I have felt collision warning pressurizing the brake system (it is great!), but not been in a safe situation to try evasive steering assist, or collision avoidance actively braking for me. I might be getting too many false collision warnings and I might start disregarding them, but so far when they trigger I try to make myself more aware of things close to me, and not further away, like interstate driving. Usually it is a truck and and trailer next to me on a curving road that sets it off, so I anticipate it then.

Not enough information from the OP, as not all models get Evasive Steering Assist (my 2019 has it because it has Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with ACC), but that was is what I suspect, just not that it was triggered for no apparent reason.

I would disconnect the battery again, and either touch the two battery cable ends together (battery is disconnected!) or turn on a high draw item (headlights), or leave them off for 5 minutes, then reconnect it. Your vehicle should have a BMS (Battery Management System) that needs reset. I have not seen a procedure for this on your year Edge (I have done this with my 2017 Escape and 2015 Fusion). I never had any luck with the 8 hours of sitting overnight to reset it (my auto start/stop was still disabled, for example).

There are better threads that had details on the actual alternator replacement, like the following that has the steps. As far as what alternator it should have, if you put in the VIN in the Ford parts site it should tell you specifically which one it needs, so if that said 175 then it is as good as any unless you take out yours and verify it first.