dabangsta

Overall I wish mine didn't have it. In theory it is nice, having arms full of stuff to put in the cargo area, swipe of the a foot and it opens for you. Realistically I never get it right the first 5 attempts. I get my dog on the leash and out of the carrier in the cargo area, they get on the ground, walk under the bumper and it closes. I am hosing it off and it opens while it is wet and I have a hose pointed at it.

Lots of people swear they need to do the transmission fluid changes every 30/40k miles (about 60,000km) with the 6F35 (yours has the 6F50 I think). On my vehicle with the 6F35 I did it at 60,000 miles and 85,000 miles as it is not shifting very well. I am sure your environment is even hotter than mine (I was stationed in Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, but I live in the American Desert and we frequently hit 115 degrees) so it might be warranted. I would not say it is too late to do it, and frequently at 240,000km the dealers won't change the fluid.

I agree, you probably have 95% of the hardware needed, and the software (I think you need revision 2.2 or higher) to support Android Auto and with a new USB hub/ports Apple CarPlay wired. I think there is some confusion with both the far away image of the center stack and the custom image shown on the far away picture. 2016 was the first year for the Edge (and quite a few other Fords) for SYNC 3. While the 2.2 and 3.0 version of the software that Ford distributes for your year, many install the latest 3.4 using a side way to install it. 3.4 is much more responsive than the 3.0 it maxes out on.

It does sound like actuators are worn out, unfortunately they are a latch/actuator package, so a bit more involved to replace and more expensive. I would verify the wiring connector on the drivers door, it the connector to the door module or the master switch are questionable might be low power going to them, I assume same happens from the interior door lock/unlock (electronic).

Don't do it. Any with the 2.0 are not flat or dolly towable. The 2.7 can be flat 4 towed, I don't know if that includes dolly or not, but I don't think it does. Download the owners manual for it, but best is all four on a trailer.

I am surprised you were able to get 3.4 on your 2017 Escape from Ford, and not using the Cyanlabs updater. Also 2017 didn't have SEL, so it must be a 2018? Should be able to use the same USB drive updater on both.

Depends on the year, but you use most of the words from this TSB (buck, jerk): https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203649-0001.pdf It is 1 hour labor to read the strategy and flash the PCM if you are not covered by the factory warranty or extended warranty.

Do you have an issues, like key in ignition chime never works or it doesn't stop when you remove the key with the door open, intermittent or never tries to start when you turn the key? Usually it needs a replacement Ignition Switch (not the lock cylinder).

Glad you got it sorted, too bad it wasn't something like a disconnected connector or a reset, but it was the part you bought and replaced. I wouldn't survive 10 minutes without tunes.

I think that 2011-2012 that it was pull, not push. You pull it back far enough for it to "click" for high beams, or only slightly for "flash to pass". Weird that it isn't the normal, and not what previous or since Edge's or most Fords work. If you have a wall on front of you, this is low beam (note the cut off line, I also have the fog lights on...and this is a different vehicle but has halogen projectors and not bi-halogen that is why the cut off remains for the high beams): and high beams have a much bigger hot spot:

Welcome! After 15 months and 18,000 miles I still focus too much on the raised fenders (like this is a pre runner or something) and hate the water puddling dip in the hood. I noticed it switching between a 2012, 2017, and 2019 when I was test driving them. I wish I had the memory settings in my SEL, as I am 5'11" and my wife is 4'10" and I have to stand outside of the car moving the seat back enough to get in. But every previous car I have had that had memory and ease of access the first gadget to die has been the front/back action of the drivers seat, even if we switched the same amount in the other cars, which was weird.

It has been awhile since it happened to me, but I had a cut common trace that I had to repair with a special paint, and I have had the wiring connector pull off. This is where they are on my 2019, I carefully slightly pulled the interior cover on the drivers top of the rear window to expose them.

Yes, you need an upper/plenum gasket set. Should be under $10. I went middle of the ground and ordered them when I ordered the plugs and all other maintenance stuff (no coils, just plugs past the scheduled interval):

If you do end up replacing the ACM, this is what I mean with the HD radio on the sticker (versus not having it). Some eBay items have the text of the engineering number that you are looking for, but aren't really it, I would look at the sticker as most are actual photos of the item for sale.

-KD will at least lose HD radio. The DSP is the one with codes, including one that Haz outlined so maybe the pinpoint test f will help narrow it down if it is something that can be done without IDS.

After a year and 19,000 miles, not much has changed. I use the stop and go feature around town a lot. I use it in stop and go interstate traffic with the caveat that I do 2 bars or 3, not 1 bar that I usually use. 1 bar I too frequently get collision avoidance when going from 5 mph to 70 mph back to stopped. I use the very aggressive whoa'ing to change my driving habits and no longer get quite as close to vehicles in front of me in my lane before changing to go around them, and I do use the gas pedal to cross that boundary as I change lanes like you mention. I always forget to disable lane centering in town, so it gets a annoying for it to complain about losing both lines (each intersection), but on the interstate I like it as it takes a bit of the mundane part of driving away, but I also don't like where in the lane it wants me to be, seems to favor the right side and doesn't detect cars there or semis. I have seen the lane keeping go orange in the cluster when lane centering is also on, but never felt it vibrate, I guess I let lane centering do it's thing, it is pretty responsive. I had hoped for better fuel mileage, but my Fusion with the 3.5 (and AWD) can knock down 3 mpg better on the same trip, I guess welcome to the world of taller CUVs. I have a steering wheel with paddle shifters on the way, I have missed those with mountain driving, and if I install a trailer hitch they are nice for towing as well.

No sound at all, even chimes? With it being a Titanium with premium Sony sound, there is an amplifier that has its own fuse. I think that you can use Forscan and an OBD-II adapter to get the engineering number, and if you just buy a used one, you might need that to load your as built date onto the new one. Make sure it has HD radio (which can be seen on the sticker if they show the actual one and not just a representative one).

There is also one that is listed as a few things, w hot weather group (available in some countries), and with towing (which the ST has) https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/climate-control/ac-repair-parts/engine-cooling-fan-motor-and-fan-p-rf318?pdp=y which is part number and engineering number Part #: RF318 (F2GZ8C607A) (A suffix versus E). Since they all have towing, I guess that is the standard ST and not the brushless one? Or maybe it is?

Okay, I thought that was the same document that showed a couple different methods to enter it, depending on what buttons you might have (possibly different B&O versus standard), so I didn't download it to look at it.

I am just cherry picking part of this post. That is how extended warranties work. Up to the date or miles the original warranty is, it is covered by the original warranty, then the extended kicks in, but that 6 year, 120,000 (just pulled numbers out of the air) is from the in service date. When I bought my used 2019 with 1,000 miles left on the manufacturers warranty the financial guy kept wording the extended warranty like it was added on at the end, but when asked the year it would expire, it was 2025, not 2028 like he kept intimating at. I had no plans for it since I rarely get gripes fixed by the dealer unless it is completely obvious, and I decided to invest the 11% of the cost of the vehicle they wanted for the warranty to extend it 2 years and 40,000 miles. The finance guy was no longer my long lost buddy, the extended warranty is where they make their bank.

Which method worked?

My parents stressed out about this type of exploit after watching a news story on it, mostly when traveling and staying in motels. They would keep the fobs in the microwave. I bought them the faraday type fob holders (one pocket is a faraday cage, the other isn't) and they used those instead.

It is available. You can view it or if you get a pressure fault it will show it with the pressures so you know which one is low. On the left screen, select Display Mode then up and down to Tire Pressure.

I think that depending on what controls you have, it is press and hold power, then press and hold seek back (|<<) until it enters speaker walk around mode.

The add on one is a mechanical button one like my 2000 Grand Marquis had. I have seen some creative placements of it, like in the fender well or on the roof or in the cowl by the wipers. $120 for the part, $200-300 for programming (I guess it doesn't program in like a fob like the older ones did). https://accessories.ford.com/keyless-entry-keypad-for-vehicles-with-factory-remote-start