dabangsta

Left message/information center>Drivers Assist>Pre-Collision>Alert Sensitivity there is Low, Normal, or High. ( or heck, just turn it off!) I tried Low figured out that I actually like the brake charging, I immediately have brakes when I touch them and full power. I have never had it auto brake for me, just alert and pressurize the brake system.

The owners manual says you can change the sensitivity of it, but I have not been able to find it in my settings, but I guess I didn't really look all that hard as it has only flaked out on me a couple of times with large semi trailers in adjacent lanes, and I guess a bit sensitive in stop and go traffic if I am aggressive with the 0-75-0 or the adaptive cruise is.

if you didn't touch the area on top of the handles that are used to lock it with proximity of the Intelligent Access fob, I guess that could mean that one of them is busted and always trying to lock it, and once the fob is close enough it can finally lock? When you unlocked it, did it relock? Proximity just enables it to be locked or unlocked using the touch points.

(Un)Fortunately my Google Pixel 6 Pro stays in place, but it heats up so bad it shuts off charging. My sons iPhone 14 slides off and stops charging. I put my phone in upside down so it doesn't change since I have it plugged in for Android Auto (and the iPhones for Carplay). I will probably disable the wireless charging pad. I charge all the time on QI chargers and don't have an issue except in the car.

It is easy enough to lock the keys in the vehicle. It is tougher to do with the engine running. I made sure I have my door code (I made a custom one that matches my last cars code), FordPass is currently connected, and the Alexa connection is still authorized, so even if I lock my phone in the car, I can still unlock it from my watch.

Sorry to hear that! If you didn't setup FordPass to access it via the cell phone app, and you don't have access to another key easily, getting the code isn't possible, especially when locked out.

Not that you have a time machine and can go back and make sure the vehicle has it when you bought it, but Co-Pilot Assist+ with ACC, evasive steering, and navigation was $795 on my 2019. It was cheaper than the convenience package with alarm, hands free lift gate, remote start, garage door opener, and wireless charging pad (which was $835) But then there was an equipment group savings and a California package and wheel discount, -$1700 for a 201a ($2800), silly all weather floor mats ($125), Co-Pilot Assist ($795), Convenience Package ($835), pano roof ($1595) and machined dark pocket 18 inch wheels ($895) so not clear what was discounted.

Thanks! I scoured their videos and didn't see one, and boom a new one was created. I wonder if that black ADBV is actually black silicone. I agree the new one looks like Champ made ones (maybe not the $2 one but not the higher end one either), and I think the FL-910S is still better. Still on the fence about the FL-400S upgrade. When I am under there changing the oil this weekend I will see if there are any reasons to not go with the longer one with more filter area. I did find a PDF with an exploded view and they also say it has a silicone ADBV I guess the other manufacturer uses red to make it stand out from the nitrile ones? OEP.pdf

Ecoboost 2.0 and Coolant intrusion. It does require a new engine that has a different design to not have this issue again. It is an unfortunate issue for 2015-2018 Edge and 2017-2019 Escape and Fusion. My 2017 Escape had a similar possible issue that could happen and I stressed out about it a lot. (Un)Fortunately it was lost in an accident at 96,000 miles and it never had any issues, but it was still a bit stressful waiting for it possibly happen. One of the reasons I went with a 2019 Edge when there were better equipped 2017-2018 for less, the common issues it has are cheaper, external, and in the case of the one I bought, already fixed and reprogrammed.

That would be Lane Keeping. It can alert or aid with steering wheel vibrations or very minimal torque input to try to keep in the lane. Lane Centering will actually provide enough torque to fully keep the vehicle centered (well, what it considers centered), they call it assist but it will decently follow curvy roads if the markings are detectable. I hate and enjoy it on my 2019. I don't like what it considers centered, and I like that it does help with fatigue on longer drivers (I frequently do 6-12 hour drives).

Ford dealer handed me an FL2123 instead of an FL910S (FL910S not readily available anymore locally via auto parts store or Walmart). I declined and got them from Rockauto and put off the oil change. While I understand that it seems like it is a new manufacturer for it, and they call it an OE Performance replacement, I don't see things like the silicone ADBV (and not real clear if that is needed with the orientation of it anyways in this usage), anyone seen anything about this and other FL2xxx replacements for other common Ford ones (my 3.5 takes an FL500S and the dealer had none of it in stock either)? The S denotes the silicone ADBV and is obvious to see through the holes at the mating side, don't see it with the FL2123. Do most here use the larger FL400S in place of the FL910S?

I am sorry, but anyone with a 2019+ that doesn't have the high level headlights is dazzling oncoming traffic with low beams only, forget about high beams. I never thought that getting a Titanium since it has leveling headlights would be required, but if I have 50 pounds of stuff in the cargo area everyone flashes me, instead of only 30% of people if I don't. NTHSA gives them poor rating. Also this requires the matrix headlights, that I don't think even the high level US headlights do, it isn't standard in the UK either, optional on the ST-Line.

It shouldn't be checked hot. If it is hot it very likely is well over the max line (which is max cold).

I bought the SP550X as specified in the owners manual, which in the old part number scheme is CYFS12YPCTX (which each set of letters and numbers can be decoded), but they also show SP594 when I put in my VIN at fordparts.com SP550(X) - CYFS 12 YPC TX SP594 - CYFS 12 YR T3 The first group of letters are the thread, reach, seal type. 12 is the heat range. the suffixes includes ones I have never seen before, and all decoders I can find don't include these (like EE or PP is Double Platinum, N is Nickel) Anecdotally the shell/threads look like a different material, like nickel versus something else shiny but more golden hue (stick with me here...). I am going to put in the SP550 but curious if anyone knew how to decode the suffix and what the difference in these plugs are. I already know that SP550X supersedes the previous SP537 (CYFS 12 Y2)

Sounds like it probably has the 3.5, which was the standard engine for an SEL for that year. The 20 extra HP from a 3.7 could be appreciated but probably not as apparent as it seems. If the water pump/seal failed, and failed in a way to fill the crank case full of coolant and water, and it was ran that way, it likely needs a replacement engine. $3,000-$6,000 (especially with AWD) in labor to R&R an engine and replace the water pump and timing, $1500-$2000 for a used engine delivered, maybe far less if you can source it locally from a junk yard, especially a you pull it type place, but lots of additional work.

Found the connectors with pins for $2.40 each, so even with shipping I am still under $16 and can do 3 of them. I don't know what size crimper I need for these pins, I don't think my small ones or my large ones will do them cleanly, so will measure them and add to my tool collection.

That is part of MyKey. You can restrict a key for a new driver or or loaning it out (I set it up for my 2012 Fusion for my son at first). I mean...the answer is to buckle up, but if you get a message about MyKey enabled when you start it up, you need a second admin key to turn off MyKey if that is not what you want (limit radio volume, limit top speed, warn at set speeds, mute radio with no seat belt, etc).

There are details in your owners manual on pointing them and where they should shine. You mark a line on a wall at height of the center of the projector lens, get vehicle 25 feet away, and it shows where the cut off line and concentrated light should be (each side). I have similar H11 bulb projector style headlights in my 2012 Fusion, and other than a foot lower to the ground, they are fine. I actually hate the 2019 LED headlights. They have lots of dark and bright areas, and if I have 50 pounds of stuff in the cargo area they blind oncoming traffic. They are are perfectly aligned so I might add air bag (airlift) to the rear because I do frequently travel with a full load.

It is held in place with a torx screw under a rubber plug over a hole in the sill. When the locksmith came out to rekey mine they counted the number of turns obsessively (and careful not to drop it inside the door!), and I am assuming (they went to their secret mobile lair) they took the cylinder apart to see what number plungers it had to code into their machine (I didn't have any cut emergency keys for mine). The one from Ford should have the directions on how to recode it to match, I don't know that it the cylinder is removeable from that piece or not.

2015+ has individual TPMS. What model and options, does it have the 2 information screens on each side of a central speedo, or a single center screen? The 2016 owners manual shows that it should be available the type 2 (2 screens) in the Display Mode (it is there in my 2019), and center screen in the Driver Assist settings. When a tire goes low and triggers the system in my 2019 it brings that display up and shows the pressures and which one is low. My 2017 Escape had individual pressures, but didn't display in the instrument panel, but I could get them using Torque app on my phone and an OBD-II adapter. My 2012 Fusion just tells me low tire and doesn't have individual pressures available in any way.

Oh, I hadn't tried that. Yes, it has a proximity sensor that only allows the lift gate to open, doesn't unlock all the doors. Would be handy without the hands free sensor.

When you have your arms full of groceries or your giant key fob is buried in your purse or murse (man purse) because you never need it out because of Intelligent Access and hands free? Need to go to a door first (didn't they decontent the rear door sensors?) to open the lift gate with the button? Just playing devils advocate as to when and why it is handy. I didn't want it on my last vehicle but it was a very common standard option on vehicles sitting on lots, so it came with it, and we got used to it, even with all the weirdness.

Turned on in the information display (what you enabled to see) Ignition on Not in park Light switch set to Auto lamp (this is different from non-configureable in that it would also do it in Off and Parking Lamps) Headlamps are off (so in Auto but dark enough to turn them on)

What model and options, and what are you expecting to be used as the DRL? SEL or higher has the LED signature lighting triangles on the bumper, SE comes standard with configurable DRL in the US.

I could work on the quality and orientation I print these as, and use a better filament and clean them up, but I dig being able to print and mock up stuff. Unrelated but McMaster-Carr provides 3d models of all their stuff, bolts, screws, nuts, plugs, mesh, pipe fittings...everything! I have mocked up stuff and made real ready for use stuff from those models knowing mechanical limits and details that can't be replicated. Pipe plugs (for electric boxes), pipe fittings, rod ends, hose fittings are usually what I start with.