dabangsta

That is the 8F57 specs (full plus 1 quart), the 8F35 is just fill to the bottom of the sight plug.

As mentioned, it depends on the year. 2019+ has a disconnect in the PTU.

Should go away. Mine are growly if only my wife drives it for any amount of time (2-3 weeks). She is not an aggressive braker and once I drive it once there is no hint of noise for a few weeks. It took me quite a while to get rid of the machine marks on the rotors, maybe 1000 miles? She is the primary daily driver of it. I drive it occasionally during the week, but I am the long distance vacation driver. I went with the same rotors but a less aggressive pad.

Lincoln MKX and Nautilus are on the same platform as the Edge (Nautilus 2024 and newer is on a new platform built in China). MKC and Corsair are on the Escape platform.

Now or at some point in the past this vehicle likely had an amp and sub woofer in the "trunk", that is low gauge wiring for the amplifier, that clear plastic part is a fuse.

Weird, I doubt it checks the turn signal position in remote start, that is the only time I have seen one side off.

You mention during remote start, is it only then, or have you checked? I am not sure how the high level adaptive lights behave, my mid level (not adaptive, but with signature lighting) both sides come on always and when remote started (it is usually in the shade or at night, so I get my fog lights and amber marker lights on the side, might be due to switch setting and light sensor?).

Did you find a source that wasn't $10-15 in shipping? I bought mine from China as the cheapest I could find, but it was in the territory of buying a Dongar adapter, but I would rather DIY. What sized crimpers did you use? I have 5 sets of these but all my pin crimpers are either too small (the 2.54 Dupont sized, or the next size up), or too large.

Does it "work" if you put it into the emergency slot in the center console and press the Start button? Work meaning still recognized as a programmed key chip but not for proximity or remote entry?

Normal operating conditions? 150,000 miles(!?!?!?!?!) Towing, using a car top carrier, extensive idling, low speed driving, sandy or dusty conditions? every 30,000 miles

All I have ever found was a specialized screw driver bit that was broken in half, under the carpet of an older Ford. https://fordauthority.com/2025/07/assembly-workers-wallet-found-inside-2015-ford-edge-after-11-years-video/amp/

Battery change is only the small back, it doesn't split it in half to expose the circuit board. Is it enough to dump alcohol in and then let it dry? Probably.

Is it still detected if you place it in the emergency backup slot and try to start the vehicle (if it isn't detected if just inside the cabin)? If it is, I personally would buy a used OEM fob off eBay to replace it. You need to make sure you get the right one (remote start or not), and make sure you already don't have 4 keys programmed in. I picked up an OEM fob for $30 off eBay, but unfortunately the previous owner lost 2 keys, so it has 4 programmed in already, so I can't simply add one. There are replacement cases for them, but I can't tell if you can non destructively pull the case apart or not, it seems sonic welded but I don't have one to sacrifice to test it. I only find videos for other keys, mostly because they are more likely to be broken than these.

Thanks, I updated it because I was wrong. 2016 might require a USB hub update to work with CarPlay (had to swap it on a 2016 Escape, but not a 2017).

That is SYNC with MyFord Touch (SYNC 2). The Edge had that 2013-2015 2013-2016. 20172016-2020 is SYNC 3. 2021+ is SYNC 4A. 2007-2012 is SYNC with voice activated nav. Only 2013 and newer, SYNC3/4a support Carplay. I don't know if the early SYNC 3 in this vehicle needs an updated hub for CarPlay (I don't think it does). There are various options if it has SYNC2 and CarPlay, very DIY or kits to SYNC 3, or some add on boards. Edited to fix year range, I got it wrong (I focused on SYNC Connect and not SYNC)

It is interesting that the 2.0 FHEV is both port and DI, I didn't know that. Some vehicles with the 2.3 got dual injection in 2024. (I know other engines got it earlier) Port Injection is more for when it is idling and moderate throttle position (it helps with misfires at low speeds compared to DI), and under demand or high throttle position it uses the Direct Injection.

Try Lock/Unlock/Lock if it is an aftermarket recently released device. Ford dealer installed remote start is a separate fob with a single button.

You might want to ask if anyone can post the connector pinout and wire colors for your 2023 for the rear view mirror and the rain sensor. It pulls straight away from the windshield, there are 4 clips that hold it in place:

You should pop off the cover like it says and check. My 2019 SEL has 5 pin wiring to the rear view mirror, I was able to find the male and female connectors and pins to make my own harness to get switched 12v from the rear view mirror. I wasn't willing to spend $42 on a Dongar adapter, or $150 like the one you posted.

FWD is 19 gallons, AWD is 20 gallons.

That is called the Backup slot. That is where you would place your key fob if the battery was dead, or for some other reason it wasn't detected in the cabin (try to start and it says "no key detected"). Also it can be used to program a new key, and to get your securicode door keypad code.

Which engine cover did you pick up? Is it a Ford one with the right configuration for where the oil fill and dipstick are? I planned on the Lincoln one since I couldn't find the Ford one in stock anywhere, and don't feel like hacking up the foam since 2019+ is different than earlier ones.

I did the larger rotor swap a few months ago. The brackets were readily available on Rock Auto to use the standard non ST calipers. I felt that the ST calipers would be too much change for a vehicle that has Adaptive Cruise with Stop and Go. The master cylinder even for the AWD rotors versus FWD is different, a lot more things are different for the ST and ST PP brakes. I also didn't go with drilled/slotted since this is both our daily driver and our vacation vehicle. I have around 6,000 miles on the new brakes and all is wearing well, all advanced braking things like stop and go adaptive cruise, ABS, etc work, and they have been hammered on and no fade in the mountains as before. Make sure you have a large enough spare for the front, or know you will be putting the spare on the rear if you get a flat in the front. I found a relatively cheap 18 inch spare from an MKX.

Can't swipe down in the map. It either scrolls the map, or does nothing. From the vehicle view it does update it, but that means leaving the map, doing that, then going back to the map.

A recent update brought it back! The reload circle arrow in the upper right can be used (only once every 30 seconds) to update the current location while it is being driven. I don't know when or what version of FordPass on Android got it, I pretty much gave up on it, but my wife got a flat tire (FordPass let me know) so I checked the location since it said it was running and not parked, and it's current location wasn't where it was parked last, and it updated to a closer location once I used the reload button.