dabangsta

I currently just have thin pins pushed into the back of the connector to power my dash cam. I don't want to cut the wires, and I don't want to spend $35-50 for the Dongar or other one. I have found the male and female shell connector part numbers, but I can't seem to figure out what pins and sockets to order. The places these are available the shipping is the killer, so I need to get it right the first time or I might as well just order the expensive one (but I like to tinker and annoy myself to save a few bucks). I would get a few but don't want to get into the manufacturing business, but always get one to use, one to lose (or one to break). If I buy enough parts to make 3, it will be $20 (shipping is $8), but not knowing what pins and sockets, if I get it wrong, another $10 for each time I try. I found that most sellers of these also point to the 3D models for them, so I was able to download them and print them to mock them up! Wiring side connector/wire socket is Molex 31072-1010 and male pin/female connector is Molex 31072-1040. The datasheets and technical drawings and information pages don't reference the pins and sockets for use, and there are so many different sizes and mounting types I can't narrow it down.

I have 2 small toy poodle(ish) dogs, that when we take them out (leashed) of their crate in the cargo area, and put them on the ground, they walk under the bumper and start it closing all the time. I make sure I don't have the key with me while washing it any more, and the number of times humans inadvertently trigger it is far fewer, it still happens rarely. If I am making multiple trips to unload, I always leave my key away from the vehicle, and have to take my loaded down arm and use the elbow to press the power close button, otherwise if I have the key one of the 3 or 4 times I return to the car I will step under the bumper and start it to close (when reaching far in to get stuff at the front of the cargo area).

The hands free liftgate was changed in 2021. 2021+ it was only available standard on the Titanium and in the 401a high level ST package. No longer available on SEL or ST-Line. Oddly enough it was standard on all ST-Lines in 2020. I doubt the dealer led you astray but there is enough information out there to know what is and isn't available. I am guessing you had outdated details on something that was removed 4 years ago.

No, there is not a recall, customer satisfaction program, extended coverage, or anything other than the TSB for the coolant intrusion issue. There is only a TSB...which gives dealers guidelines on various indicators and tests, and if under the factory warranty or extended warranty, it is covered, else it is on the owner to pay up. I think the latest TSB is 19-2346 (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf) the biggest item is of course the replacement long block and 13.3 to 15 hours labor.

I put one on my 8 inch SYNC 3 screen, and Iiked the feel of it better, it also was anti-glare which helped. While looking for my 2019 I did test drive a few vehicles that had weirdly scratched screens but have never had an issue with that, but the screen on my 2017 Escape was inset and not quite as out as the Edge SYNC 3 and SYNC 4(a). I usually put screen protectors on everything, mobile phones, handheld gaming devices, watches, tablets, even if the device supposedly use new generation Gorilla glass or durable screens, which the SYNC screens do not seem to be.

There is no "about" or "sorta" spec, it specifies the weight you need in the owners manual. It changed with the 2019 release and the different PTU with disconnect. You can play around with not going with specified fluids but I am pretty sure there was at least a modicum of engineering and testing to and design that makes the requirements specific. What about licensed Mercon ULV or specific weight gear lube for the PTU are trying to improve on? Lifespan of fluid? Noise? Performance? Life of transmission/PTU?

They are not the same transmissions. the 2.0 gets the 8F35, and the 2.7 gets the 8F57 (which in your 2021 is software 7 speed). 8 (speed) F (FWD) 35/57 (torque handling limit). They do both use Mercon ULV fluid. The fluid that the OP asks about has that ir meets the OE performance of Mercon ULV (and every other version of Mercon and almost all other fluids in history, maybe a red flag there, and I don't think it really says it was licensed to meet the requirements).

Since they are likely aftermarket (Ford had chrome clad covers for some years for some wheels, but not these), they likely are not as securely attached as the Ford ones (which are over un polished wheels). They are usually made from ABS which can be heated up to 325 to bend. I use a heat gun to help form some ABS 3d printed things. They also might have double sided tape? There are 2 different SEL wheels for 2016 (both of which have aftermarket available black skins) and they are readily available to just replace.

The accessory 12v power ports shut down after 75 minutes after delay power is shut off. That can be changed via ForScan to immediately shut off, never shut off, or various times, the different settings can be found in most ForScan spreadsheets for the Fusion or F150 (or edge of course). If they are plugged into the USB ports they are powered down when the delay accessory power is turned off.

Glad you found the correct new part number and got it working and posted back! There were a few that I couldn't decipher, I think one also includes the radar alarm (instead of just perimeter alarm triggered by door openings and starting) than maybe is in the Nautilus or not US spec.

A lot of dealers also add these on (not saying yours did, or the one the original owner bought it from did). I think this style is not legal because it doesn't change the intensity of the light (which needs to always be on), but turns it on and off (blinks) rapidly, then less rapidly, then on solid. I remove this from my Fusion:

Heated steering wheel was optional on the ST (for 2020), part of the cold weather package (with all weather floor mats and windshield wiper de-icer). Heated steering wheel is only standard on the Titanium. I got one to add paddle shifters on my FWD 2019 SEL, I might add the controller for the steering wheel, I live in the desert but those 40 degree mornings the heated seats are nice. 2021 changed that and it was included with 401a as the other poster states.

Is the coolant tank empty? I don't think there is enough coolant to hydrolock it, or if the water pump went out it could fill the crankcase fast enough, but if the coolant did leak into the crank case, if not caught immediately, it will wipe out things like bearings, maybe failing in a way similar to a hydrolock. Usually that bends things rods and causes block issues, usually not enough left of functional stuff to make it fixable, a new/old engine is needed.

That is the vent and one method to use to fill it (you can also pump it in using the sight level hole). There is no dipstick. There should be some posts on doing the fluid change on the 8F50/8F57, it is similar to the 8F35 that the 2.0 powered 2019 and newer vehicles got.

It is of the more less frequent failure modes for the 3.5, but it can happen. Usually they leak through a couple of ports to the ground and you can at least replace the water pump before it fails in a way that fills the crankcase full of coolant. Did you check the oil to see if it had coolant in it (milk shake instead of oil)? The cost of labor for the replacement of just the water pump (and timing gear since most of the labor gets you there) is pretty costly.

When it is that hot (I live in Tucson) it won't stop. But when it is 85 degrees and the sun is beating down in through the windshield and it is blowing warm air, it gets annoying. There is a list of things that are required for it to actually stop. Ambient Temperature of moderate is all it says, and also cabin temperature is checked if it is sufficiently cooled (or heated). Defroster on will disable it, and coolant needs to be up to temp (which happens in 1 minute or less year around here).

The starter is significantly different between a auto start/stop equipped vehicle and one without it. It seems like the non auto start/stop is higher rated (1.6kw) but physically they look a lot different. I don't know if there is more/less gear reduction, it is rated lower but is built to handle the 10x times it will be used. Most non auto start/stop vehicles don't have AGM batteries (look at some year Fusions when the 2.0 was available with or without auto start/stop, like 2017). On my 2017 Escape I could start to detect a sound difference when it would restart, but it never felt like it wouldn't restart, that was only up to 100,000 miles, as it was totaled. It is much more seamless in my 2019 Edge with only 80,000 miles on it now. I know it is happening, but no shake or noise happens. I don't really like it because in my environment the cabin gets too warm too quickly with the engine off, the angle of the steering wheel needs to be extreme to not shut off (making a left turn at an unprotected turn lane through traffic), and that .2 seconds the driver next to has at taking off from a light means I might lose (not really...I anticipate the green light watching the cross light and let off the brake right before it goes green!).

Resetting the BMS with an old battery is not what you should do. That tricks it into thinking that is the new full battery, and if it would continue auto start/stop eventually it won't restart. You do not need to bypass the BMS when charging or jump starting, use the post on the shock tower for the negative cable. I let my 2017 Escape battery go from 450 CCA (auto start/stop disabled at that point) to 225 CCA, it still started fine (but no auto start/stop), but I couldn't listen the radio with the engine off. I carried a jump box with me, but I replaced it once another driver started driving it again and we went on a long trip. Auto start/stop didn't start working with new battery until BMS reset, but I could listen to music without it turning off immediately.

They are all LED, and if on for 8 hours a day every day, should last 20 years or more. They never bothered to update the owners manual (still shows it taking a 9005 high beam and h11 low beam light), but I don't think anything but maybe the license plate light is a replaceable bulb.

With the back seats folded down, 74 inches is the length (I need to do some 72 inch tables, they fit) to the back of the console, so if this is a folding bed frame and not very wide, you can put them between the seats up on the console well padded and held down and be careful on hitting your elbow on the end of them. Some years and models and packages have fold flat front passenger seat (like the 2010 SEL, Limited, Sport). You can search for "xxxx ford edge tech specs pdf" (xxxx being the year) and find the official Ford specs for most years, or close year, like for my 2019 https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2019/edge/2019-edge.pdf it is a handy reference document.

If the halogen housings, low beam is a projector lens, and high beam is bare bulb in reflector housing. The "chrome caps" are generally only over low beam reflector housings to shape the light and reduce glare. If yours had these, and you yanked them, then you would have 2 high beam lights. My daily driver has projector beams with H11 bulbs, and only when the wiring was burnt and 1/4 power was going to the bulb did I have issues with the light output, but I grew up driving cars before even sealed beam candle output lights. I would kill to have the LEDs in my 2019 replaced with a projector style with H11s, they are annoying to me as a driver and to all oncoming traffic if I have more than 100 pounds in the cargo area.

I haven't yet replaced the battery in my 2019 Edge, but when I did in my 2017 Escape (that I let the battery get down to 225 CCA and auto start/stop was disabled, and I couldn't sit and listen to the radio) those steps worked (auto start/stop was still disabled until I did it), but they didn't for my 2015 Fusion. I don't think the alternate method (that seems to be UK related due to the nomenclature for options) did either. I am pretty sure I finally used Forscan to do it.

My 2019 was missing the bumper on the drivers side when I bought it. I figured that is why mine flapped a lot with extreme side or from the front winds included with going 80 mph (have hit 50 mph sustained winds for long drives across New Mexico). The one on the hood was not in place, it was lose and sitting in the tray it should contact. But I bought a new hood bumper and tested its fit with those details, and still same thing. I think the slot the bumper sits in is bad, the new bumper falls out, but that should affect it with the hood shut and it properly adjusted.

Are they LED lights? Is it the factory towing or added on hitch and wiring? Are the lights at full intensity when the car is off, or are the very dim? I have had this issue with LED things and current bleed, where the controller has a tiny bit of current to sense and that is enough to dimly light LEDs. At night they look brighter than you would think, during the day sometimes not even able to tell.

I found my previous vehicle finicky with Apple products and cables (it was a Ford Escape, same SYNC system as your Edge). I found that they tended to break near the ends or become intermittent. Even pricy Apple ones, so I once I found ones I liked for cheap from China, I ordered a few. I get them with the 90 degree ends, and most of them are short so the phone goes into the cubby (screen side down since I have wireless charging which makes the phones overheat). I would try another cable first, maybe the other port if you have 2 of the same.