dabangsta

So just like the owners manual states, it isn't actively steering, it just reduces the effort needed to actually steer if you do that. I am too chicken to try it out, I try to experience all emergency drivers aids like ABS (one side tires in gravel, other side on pavement, for example), and I have felt collision warning pressurizing the brake system (it is great!), but not been in a safe situation to try evasive steering assist, or collision avoidance actively braking for me. I might be getting too many false collision warnings and I might start disregarding them, but so far when they trigger I try to make myself more aware of things close to me, and not further away, like interstate driving. Usually it is a truck and and trailer next to me on a curving road that sets it off, so I anticipate it then.

Not enough information from the OP, as not all models get Evasive Steering Assist (my 2019 has it because it has Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with ACC), but that was is what I suspect, just not that it was triggered for no apparent reason.

I would disconnect the battery again, and either touch the two battery cable ends together (battery is disconnected!) or turn on a high draw item (headlights), or leave them off for 5 minutes, then reconnect it. Your vehicle should have a BMS (Battery Management System) that needs reset. I have not seen a procedure for this on your year Edge (I have done this with my 2017 Escape and 2015 Fusion). I never had any luck with the 8 hours of sitting overnight to reset it (my auto start/stop was still disabled, for example).

There are better threads that had details on the actual alternator replacement, like the following that has the steps. As far as what alternator it should have, if you put in the VIN in the Ford parts site it should tell you specifically which one it needs, so if that said 175 then it is as good as any unless you take out yours and verify it first.

It might be cheaper and easier to go with an MPC or Start-X add on remote start. Cheapest reuses your OEM remote (you press lock, unlock, lock to initiate), and go on up to extended distance 2 way, to add on cellular. They are $150-$300 or more, and generally are easy to install (use t harnesses and no wire cutting, having a hood switch is a variation, as is your current key situation, having 2, not 4, etc).

I haven't had evasive steering assist triggered, but I have had the pre-collision warning and brake pressure reload happen quite a few (50?) times. Usually for good reason, and a few times due to semi trailers next to me on curvy roads, and once or twice with only things like signs or bushes far along side the road. But since it is just a warning and pre pressurizing the brakes (I braked once after it went off and they are primed and ready) and not any active assist, I just understand what is happening when it happens. Adaptive Cruise is so nice. I accidentally disabled lane keeping and lane centering my last 350 mile trip, and didn't really know until I looked at the display and it wasn't the steering wheel and it wasn't the green arrows on dotted lines. It does help with fatigue, I turned it back on for the return trip. I don't expect it to drive for me, and I still steer and position myself in the lane where I want, but for the small lapse in focus and it keeping you where you should be, it is nice. I used to drive with my knees while eating a taco with my head tilted, I think I did a better job than the lane centering.

It is when it parked at night that reflectors are a safety feature. You might not be in it, or you might be, with the lights off. That is why the disclaimer on the site for them, but I don't think the do enough to let people know they are removing a safety feature. They are required, and there is a height limit and regulations on if they can be on a moveable section (trunk lid, liftgate...they can't), that is why you see more CUV/SUVs with them (previous generation it was a strip under the lift gate). I find that many vehicles that move the turn signals or the brake lights (again, probably because they have to be on a stationary section of vehicle that doesn't move like a trunk lid), but they are so disconnected from the tail lights that they appear to be an additional vehicle somehow.

Sorry, yes, I was confused about the 2015-2018 until I found a video on them and tracked down my neighbor to check out theirs, I was going to retract what I said. I guess I would like to find a non signature lighting 2019+ headlight to see what it has, this is my first Ford with signature lighting that isn't always on (it can be turned off with the light switch in the off position), all others no matter what, if the car is in RUN position the signature lighting is on.

Seems like 2015+ that bulb is directional only. 2007-2014 it was a combo park/directional, with park being lower powered than the directional (so it was always on when park/headlights on even when blinking). The directional can be set to be the DRL in Forscan. The LEDs I tried fast blink (the IC only, not the actual bulbs), which was annoying but I might try setting them to DRL to see if they properly blink on turn signal usage.

What model and options for audio do you have? Yes, usually you can take an ACM that matches some requirements (like if you have HD radio, for example), use Forscan to load your As Built data to it (either from saving it from the ACM using Forscan, or downloading it from Ford). I ask the model because the 12 speaker Sony has HD radio (which you might want to be sure you get an ACM with that), and an external amplifier (which is fused on its own, and possibly could be reason no audio?). I think the 9 speaker premium uses the on ACM amplifier, but maybe someone can post the different radio configs wiring and descriptions. K4J from your VIN is an AWD SEL, which could have the standard 6 speaker radio, or the optional 9 speaker "premium" radio (which if you have a group 201a vehicle with SYNC 3, heated seats, leather trimmed front seats you have the 9 speaker system).

You mean in Forscan enable them to be always on until used as a turn signal, then blink? By default I don't think any models have the inner light as a marker/parking light, just the outer, and possibly the signature lighting (LED strip).

Any reason to not suspect the wiring that goes to that specific side, like has been the case with most of the above posters to this thread? I assume that if you find an issue you can temporarily patch it but getting a new one and watching how it is routed seems to be the way to go.

Thanks for the update on the PN and the ones you got! I have had these for awhile, I bought them for my 2015 Fusion that my daughter drives, but didn't get them installed before she had the bulbs replaced for way too much money. $3.50 for the set from China (Aliexpress), I will install them when I remove the drivers side headlight assembly to install the dual tone horn.

I made the same assumption but Adaptive Cruise Control has been available since 2011. 2019 did add Stop and Go and Lane Centering to it. Other clues made it likely to be a 2019+ vehicle though for sure.

Is it Lane Keeping (alert on dash, vibrate steering wheel, slight steering assist), or Lane Centering (will steer through curves and follow lines)? Is it only doing it when you have the cruise on? You can disable Lane Centering using the button with the steering wheel with the lines (above the sensitivity car with the three lines). Year and model would possibly help, we only know assume it is a 2019 or newer.

Did you pay a diagnostic fee? If so what was the full diagnosis given to you on your writeup, any fault codes or the listing of the steps and where it fails? I know that the diag I got written down on mine didn't match what the service writer told me, nor what the super duper tech actually found, so YMMV. There are number of SSMs on TCUs, many revolve around the ESN for it not displayed in the screen and inability to perform some firmware updates. There are a number of tutorials for putting your asBuilt data/settings and updating the firmware into a new TCU and how to authorize it again with FordPass. It isn't as easy as slapping in a new TCU, and requires Forscan and an "approved" OBD-II adapter and some work.

So even though the original WY21W 7440 based bulbs you got didn't fit, others did? It doesn't take the PWY24W bulb like the Fusion?

Glad you were able to solve it, and came back with the solution. Sometimes the reason for needing the information is helpful, knowing all those modules are off a branch of the MS CAN and all routed to the left side.

Are you tracking down several failures or issues? Was the car in an accident or flooded or something else? I wonder where connector C900 is located and what the pin assignments are. All the items you list are on page 8 of the MCN document. On page 7 you can see the pins and connector (c900) that go to all those modules from the shared bus from the Gateway module. I don't have a heated steering wheel so that is why the HSWM is not found for me. Before I removed the saved config I only got about 2/3s of the modules.

Hopefully someone can post the wiring diagram for those missing modules and you can see the MS-Can bus and where it might not be terminated or open. Seems like they are all on the left side of the vehicle or the wiring is routed on that side. I had to remove the existing profile for my vehicle and rescan it to get all the modules to show up. I used a different OBD-II adapter with a switch across bluetooth and it didn't get them all.

What model, and what configuration of cluster (2 round with LCD in middle, or center speedometer and 2 LCDs on each side)? I can only assume it is the 2 LCD since the temp gauge on the other one is mechanical(ish) and below the tachometer on the left pod. In the left information center, in the Display options, One view with the circular tach has coolant temperature. You can cycle through them using up and down arrow.

Discount tire has some brands it sells exclusively, but I have not seen special models only they sell, or same models with different specs. Walmart has quite a few Walmart only models made by Goodyear, but it isn't like they are made of rope and duct tape, they are usually maybe lower mileage rated, lower temp spec, things like that. I ran them all the time on my older cars when I didn't know if the car would be around for a year or 10 years. They were just tires that were cheaper and had compromises that I was okay with. I shop around for quality and price, and have gotten tires at Discount, and tires from TireRack mounted at Discount, as well as other places. They have never done me wrong other than taking way longer to get to my car with an appointment and it taking longer, hardly unique.

That is one of the passages from the internal seal for the water pump. If the bearing/seal on the pump leaks it will first go through that passage to exit the block/front cover. Make sure you check your oil for water, and get it fixed before the other seal fails and coolant/water goes into the crank case, which will wipe out the entire engine quickly. What indications are you seeing that it is a head gasket? Combustion/pressure test of the cooling system? A cylinder with coolant in it? Just losing coolant? While it is a lot of work to replace the water pump, it is easier than the head gasket(s).

They should be fine. They should be same width with slightly different offset, but it depends on what model and FWD vs AWD. SE FWD was available with 17 aluminum wheels, but if it is AWD it has larger rotors (doesn't need to be a Sport to have the larger rotors). 18 should be the smallest for AWD. What size is your temp spare? I know they are narrower and face can be contoured differently, but should be telling. Why not bolt them down with at least 3 lugs? 5mm of clearance with the brake caliper should be fine, unless there is interference with the back of the wheel and the face of the caliper or bracket, but these steel wheels don't seem contoured to cause that.

Unfortunately it looks like 2019+ owners manual wasn't updated for exterior bulbs from previous generation. It still shows halogen headlamps and HID available (and DRL), that turn bulb (which is a turn only) also is shown as the older one.