frozennuts

Somehow, I think it's going to take a long time if ever, for oil burners to appear in Ford cars in North America. If you look at the New Ford Escape which in North America has the 2.4L N/A and 1.6L & 2.0L Ecoboost. In Europe, the same vehicle is called the Kuga and is available with the 1.6L Ecoboost as 160hp with manual trans and 180hp with auto trans (2.0L Ecoboost not available ). And diesel options are 2.0L with 140hp and 163hp in manual and Powershift option. We know that the Edge (next generation) is on its way to Europe in 2015 and I guess it will be a similar deal, North America gets the best ga sengine and Europe will get the oil burners. Ford has a great diesel that would suit the Edge right now, its a 3.0L V6 twin turbo that goes in the Land Rover Discovery 3.

The Mustang to be sold in Europe will not be a real Mustang with a 2.0L Ecoboost! I have a 3.5L Edge which, after 3 years in Canada, I brought back to Finland and it could be the only one in the Country. I still love it but was thinking it was time to change for something newer. But the choice is not so great here in Europe, no Edge here yet and when it comes it will be too expensive. Looked at the new Kuga (new Escape in US). But biggest gasoline option available in Europe is the 1.6L Ecoboost with 180hp with a normal auto trans or a 2.0L Diesel 163hp with powershift trans (2000€ extra for the oil burner). In Finland the vehicle is around 45,000€ in a good spec (thats around $58,000 US). We also get to pay 2.70€ per litre of gas, that's $3.50 per litre, yes litre not gallon! I really miss living in Canada :violin:

I should add that its quite small and have only added about 100ml of Mercon V to reservoir.

I have a 2008 Edge Limited AWD with 90,000 km and have noticed oil in the left side steering rack gaiter. Is there anything other than changing the complete rack that can be done to fix the leak? Changing the rack will be expensive as I have to first, have one shipped to Finland...

Don't use Mercon LX as the requirement is for Mercon V

Just noticed these 3 options from ijdmtoy http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Ford-Lincoln-Projector-Headlights-Housings-s/145.htm?searching=Y&sort=5&cat=145&show=15&page=4

On occasions when my wife is in my Edge, a whining noise starts but I generally ask her to shut up! Silence is great...........

Swap the coil from number 4 with another and see if the problem moves to the other cylinder. If it does then its a good chance that your coil is the problem, if it does not, then check the coil connector.

I located the cable around the side of the rad and located the plug between the gaps of the chrome grill (just out of sight) but easy to plug in without lifting the hood. Alternatively, take a look at what is available in Europe http://www.defa.com/en/fp/main/ Ok, voltage is different but connector will still work.

From the Ford Edge 2008 Service Manual Normal Vehicle Axle Maintenance Rear axles and transfer case/Power Transfer Unit (PTU) containing synthetic lubricant and light duty trucks equipped with Ford-design axles are lubricated for life. These lubricants are not to be checked or changed unless service is required, or if a leak is suspected or the axle assembly has been submerged in water. The axle and transfer case/ PTU fluid should be changed anytime they have been submerged in water. Nonsynthetic rear axle lubricants should be installed new every 4,800 km (3,000 mi) or 3 months, whichever occurs first, during extended trailer tow operation above 21°C (70°F) ambient and Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for extended periods above 72 km/h (45 mph). The 3,000 mile lube change interval may be waived if the axle was filled with 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant. Add 118 ml (4 oz) of additive friction modifier for complete refill of Traction-Lok® rear axles. The axle lubricant should be changed anytime an axle has been submerged in water. Police and Taxi Vehicle Axle Maintenance Install new rear axle lubricant every 160,000 km (100,000 mi). Rear axle lubricant change may be waived if the axle was filled with 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant. Add 118 ml (4 oz) of additive friction modifier for complete refill of Traction-Lok® rear axles. The axle lubricant should be changed anytime an axle has been submerged in water.

I just installed 6K type 2's (60 SMD's) from ijdmtoy and they work great but white is more blue than I was expecting. I am running what I believe are the whitest halogen bulbs (OSRAM night breakers) but the switchbacks are a bit too blue for my liking. I contacted ijdmtoy, and they suggested I exchange for their new Bi color 57 pcs bulbs which they say are a little less blue. No need to remove anything from the headlamp and actually the amber piece inside the headlamp gives an amber colour to be viewed only from the side of the vehicle.

Durability is good, they have been through a full year in the Arctic and still look as good as new. If you take care when attaching them, they will be OK but to improve the finish I used some black silicone sealant around the edge. Alternatively, you could purchase the production LED mirrors and wire in the same way as I explained above, they are LED's so connecting to front turn feed will not cause any problems.

My Edge is also already here in Europe, its actually nice to have the only one in town, possible the Country. Probably will not help me if I want to replace my Edge for a new one as it will probably be about 80,000 to 90,000 € ($105,000 to $120,000) here in Finland (That's what a Nissan Murano costs here).

If the sender unit is faulty or disconnected, the fan will run continuously. The fan should also run continuously if A/C is on unless the fan fuse, relay or control module are at fault. Any OBD codes?

Hope this helps LED Turn Signal Installation.doc

Once you have taken the mirror off the door (3 nuts) you can feed a small wire from that side into the back of the mirror housing. Then once you have drilled your hole for the LED lights into the side of the mirror assembly, feed this into the housing, push the mirror lens in at the bottom and you should be able to pull both the LED wire and the feed wire out. Connect them together and pull the feed wire back until the LED wire is through. Then pull all the excess through and you are now ready to attach the LED lamp to the outside of the mirror. Then reconnect the mirror to the door and then either go through the door or straight to the front wing and feed through into engine bay. Wire is very small and not a problem for weather strip or drill a small hole to feed wire. I took the shortest route with the intention of going through the door at a latter date but nearly a year on and its still the same (I'm not so anal about my car) lights were a necessity to pass inspection. I will take some pictures and reply soon

If temperature sender has failed, the fans will run all the time. Turning the A/C on max with a cold engine will turn the fans on. Hopefully its a fuse or relay or the connector to the fans (you have two fans, yes?) if yes, can't believe they have both failed. Fuses and relays for the cooling fan are in the fuse box under the hood next to the battery. The fuses are F5 and F2 (40A & 60A) and the relay is relay 2 located between fuse 1 & 2

I went for the easiest and quickest option. 1) Remove mirror unit from the door by removing back cover to 3 nuts, disconnect electrics (one plug), you should not need to remove the glass. 2) I attached turn signal unit to the black plastic section of the mirror unit and not the painted section, check fit before sticking. Should be able to bend around panel, just below painted section. 3) The end with the wire attached has the rear facing lamp so this end should be the closest to the mirror. You will see this by testing the units before installing. 4) Drill a small hole in the black plastic in the location that the wire will be, once stuck to the mirror unit. 5) Take a small wire and push into the back of the mirror unit from the fixing end to the door and allow wire to come out through gap between mirror glass and unit. Then feed wire from turn signal unit through drilled hole and secure to the wire from the other end and pull turn signal wire through the unit. 6) Ensure the plastic is clean and then stick unit to the mirror unit and hold unit its stuck. Rear flashing lamp should be seen when standing at the rear of the vehicle. To ensure a clean look, I later used some black silicone sealant to give it cleaner lines between flasher and plastic of the mirror unit. 7) Re-install the mirror unit 8) If you have the time, feed wire through the door wiring and fix to the front turn signal wires. If not, you can feed the wire from the exit of the door mirror unit, through the front wing gaps and into the engine bay, where you can connect to the front turn signal wires. Leave enough wire that door can open and close. (no one will notice unless they are really anal).

Am I one of the lucky ones? I have a 2008 Edge Limited AWD, which I have owned since new in Canada and had noticed the tell tail sign of the PTU problem from the bad stinkly drain like smell every now and then when I stopped but never any oil drops on the driveway, it was not very often so I chose to ignore it. I have now moved to Finland and brought the Edge with me and the occasional stinky smell started to concern me and at 80,000km, I finally got it up on a ramp for an inspection and no signs of any leaks. Checked the oil level in the PTU and its still correct. Trans oil level is also correct and has never been topped up. Is it possible that the smell is from a vent in the PTU?

I had the same issue with the trans fluid change at 45,000km (30,000 miles) from the Dealer in Canada. They see the Special Usage page and see it as a licence to print money! They use the excuse that living in Canada during the winter means that it's "special usage" but nowhere on the list of usages that indicate special usage does it state cold winter driving. An inspect of the oil and a visual check of the oil colour is a good indication of its condition. Now at 80,000km (50,000 miles) and still looks good.

I went with Motorcraft rotors Unless you have something wrong with the caliper cyclinder, I don't see the need to change them. This will also save unnecessary brake fluid bleeding. Turning the rotors would have been the cheapest option but this would have left the vehicle immobile whilst I went and had them turned. Quickest and easiest option was to replace pads and rotors together.

Hi Van G, I checked the Edge 2010 Rockauto site for the MotorCraft pads as I ordered originally from the 2008 page and for sure they are also in the 2010 under daily usage. MOTORCRAFT p/n BR1258B - front pads - $41.79 MOTORCRAFT p/n BR1259B - rear pads - $41.79 They come complete with shims and clips My front pads needed changing at 52,000 km as they were at the limit 3mm in places and not evenly worn. I also changed the rotors as there was a section on the inside of the rotors that that the old pads did not wear down (leaving a ring of rust) and new pads would have not run flat to the disc. I think this is a common issue and I noticed later that new discs have done the same thing. Changed the rear pads recently at 76,000 km and both pads were just about 2mm.

I've replaced the front and rear pads and also the front rotors and would agree that its not a very difficult job to do yourself. I went with the MotorCraft parts as they are the closest to original and sometimes an improvement. Check out http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php for parts. I moved from Canada to Finland last year and brought my Edge over, parts not so easy to find here and even if they were, I think that even when I add the shipping costs, most parts are cheaper from Auto Rock than they would be here.

I've had my Limited AWD, new since 2008 and ran the first 3 years in Canada and the past year in Finland, total 72k (km) (temperature range +30.C to -40.C). In Canada it would be warmer in the summer and for longer :yup: than Finland but here in Finland, no salt used in winter :cold: Basic service around twice per year (prior to winter and end of winter, aprox 8 to 10k) 2010 - Changed the front pads and rotors (52k) 2011 - Changed battery, tested OK but gave up one time so changed before it went a second time. 2012 - Changed spark pugs during general service and rear brake pads (72k) inspected front pads which had about 8mm remaining 2012 - Body work repair on left rear fender as paint bubbled 4 inch section of tire arch due to paint peel from inside wheel well, bloody salt! Thinking to do the trans oil soon but its still a nice red colour, never pulled any trailers even though I have the trailer package. Maybe this helps keep the trans oil cool and last longer?

Hi, I picked one up on ebay for 2008 & 2009 MY, its about 5000 pages and really helpful. I did one issue that when I received it, the electrical diagram section was missing but I contacted the seller and he sent them.