NEW Photos & Movie Trailer - EDGE-2 Next GEN Daytime Running Lights

[kc300c]

I certainly don't want to step on anyone's toes and I certainly would never advise doing something against a manufacturer's directions... but I did some extensive bench testing (with Dan's approval) last weekend. That included running the amber lights as strobes for 2.5 hours and then as DRLs for an additional 4 hours. The ambient temperature was 86.4 and the highest temperature recorded on the back of the light module was 104.1 - warm but not even uncomfortable to the touch. The front was even lower, never exceeding 94.8 degrees. So I don't personally think there is any danger to the circuits from running them full time but I will defer to the manufacturer (in other words, don't hook them up that way and ever expect warranty replacements).

Thanks for the info on your temperature tests. The concern I have about having the amber LEDs constantly on as DRLs, is not damaging the LEDs themselves or the housing, but damaging the electronic compenents of the inernal controller. The additional heat from running the amber LEDs continuously may not be enough to melt the plastic components, but could damage the DRLs controller circuits. Again, I strongly recommend not configuring your EDGE-2s in a way that allows the amber LEDs to run continuously.

 

Well, this escalated above my pay grade. I will simply use Dan's instructions, with the change of the white wire to the parking lamps. This should offer the following correct?:

 

1. Courtesy Lights

2. 100% full brightness with headlights off

3. 70% brightness with parking lamps or headlights on.

 

Am I missing anything?

 

And just a dumb question. When are just the parking lights on, if my lights are always set to "Auto"?

Just want to confirm that it is perfectly safe to connect and power my EDGE-2s using the existing OEM plug. You will loose the automatic DRL function, but if turning the EDGE-2s on and off manually each time does not bother you, then you are in good shape.

 

 

Installed my lights tonight. Connected them to the original light pipe circuit for now. I am heading to my dealer on Monday to look at DRL options. I have a 2013 SEL without HID so I'm hoping the light pipes will show up in my DRL options. I had my DRL function changed from my headlights to the turn signals a couple months ago because I wanted to install HID. Now I can't connect the amber flash on the EDGE2 to the turn signals because they would be on all the time during the day.. If the dealer can't set DRL to light pipes, I'll have to return to headlight DRL and use the harness.

 

Couple things I will mention. After you learn how to remove those clips, they come off real easy. My trick was to slide the screwdriver into the clip from the back rather than just up into the front. What this does is pushes the prongs away from the plastic and allows the clip to slide right off. If you just pull from the front, the prongs dig into the plastic.

 

I also picked up some 1/8" black techflex braided split loom to cover the wires. It looks exactly like the braided portion of the rad hose except much smaller. Looks awesome and 100% OEM. Unless you knew what you were looking for, you would never know the factory didn't install it.

 

Lastly, I used dielectric grease on all the connections. Not sure if it is really required but with all the salt used in winter here, anything that will help keep the connections corrosion free is worth the 4 bucks for the tube.

 

I'll update everyone once I get back from the dealer next week. And Yes, I did go drive around tonight. Even if the lights were at 100%.

Concerning Edges with the amber parking light DRLs, I am working on a wiring method that will allow the EDGE-2 turn signal to function properly. Hope to wrap that up very soon. My Canadian friends here are on the forum are helping me find this work around.

[kc300c]

Russ is correct... the configuration in the installation instructions result in the loss of the "courtesy" lock/unlock function.

 

There are four wires connecting to the new DRL lamps. The replacement harness has red and black wires (for power and ground respectively) and there are two additional wires (white and black) through a rubber grommet above the harness plug.

 

The black wire in the harness must be connected to ground in order for any of the light functions to work.

 

Applying power to the white wire will light the white LEDs at 70% regardless of other connections (except the ground previously mentioned). This is why changing the installation so that the white wire connects to the original vertical light connector retains the courtesy lock/unlock function.

 

Applying power to the loose black wire (the one from the rubber grommet) lights the amber LEDs at full power and turns off the white LEDs if they were on regardless of other connections. Given constant power, the amber LEDs will stay on and the white LEDs will stay off. With the on/off flashing power from the turn signal circuit, the amber LEDs will flash together with the other turn signals. If the white LEDs were on, they will flash alternately with the amber LEDs.

 

Applying power to the red wire lights the white LEDs - at full power if nothing else is powered or at 70% if the white wire also has power.

 

To make the lamps work as DRLs, the module must be connected to ignition controlled power either with the red wire (100%) or the white wire (70%).

Right now, I am going to stick to my earlier statement and policy, that the EDGE-2s should not be wired in any other way (other than the use of the OEM plug) then what is stated in the installation instructions. (white trigger wire to headlights, black trigger wire to turn signals). I am looking into the alternative wiring methods that have been brought up here, but until we determine whether these methods are OK or not, I cannot recommend them. If we OK these wiring changes, you can easily reconfigure the wiring at that time.

[shoulinpanther]

Today is the day I am finally going to install these bad boys. As long as I can find some techflex wire covering. After not having my edge fr a month then driving her again I just love the car and I missed my bass lol.

[CMOS]

I haven't installed them just yet, but the thing I don't know is how the internal controller is set up and what signals it is expecting when it receives inputs from the headlight and turn signal lines. My biggest concern is the turn signal DRL since I do have those DRLs turned on since I took my Edge up here to Canada and had them turned on. I'll wait a bit until Dan has that config buttoned up. However the build quality of the devices themselves look pretty top notch.

 

Another question, since the unit has its own power plug, what happens to the OEM harness? Is it not connected anywhere?

[GeneR4]

I'd like to know how folks have been routing the harness cables to the new DRLs. Mainly looking for how best to route to the right hand side DRL, the longest away from the relay.

 

Are most just following the other cables/harnesses already in place? Pictures would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks, Gene

[TheWizard]

Thanks for the info on your temperature tests. The concern I have about having the amber LEDs constantly on as DRLs, is not damaging the LEDs themselves or the housing, but damaging the electronic compenents of the inernal controller. The additional heat from running the amber LEDs continuously may not be enough to melt the plastic components, but could damage the DRLs controller circuits. Again, I strongly recommend not configuring your EDGE-2s in a way that allows the amber LEDs to run continuously.

 

Just want to confirm that it is perfectly safe to connect and power my EDGE-2s using the existing OEM plug. You will loose the automatic DRL function, but if turning the EDGE-2s on and off manually each time does not bother you, then you are in good shape.

 

 

Concerning Edges with the amber parking light DRLs, I am working on a wiring method that will allow the EDGE-2 turn signal to function properly. Hope to wrap that up very soon. My Canadian friends here are on the forum are helping me find this work around.

 

 

Right now, I am going to stick to my earlier statement and policy, that the EDGE-2s should not be wired in any other way (other than the use of the OEM plug) then what is stated in the installation instructions. (white trigger wire to headlights, black trigger wire to turn signals). I am looking into the alternative wiring methods that have been brought up here, but until we determine whether these methods are OK or not, I cannot recommend them. If we OK these wiring changes, you can easily reconfigure the wiring at that time.

 

As I have previously stated, I do not recommend installing these lights (or any kind of accessory for that matter) in any way other than the manufacturer's recommendation. My description of the various wires and their function was merely for information to answer questions from other members. My temperature testing was related to my intended use of the amber LEDs for strobes running for long periods of time and had been related to Dan prior to being posted here.

 

However, I am starting to find it troublesome that the members of this forum and I have been making discoveries about how these things work that appear to surprise the manufacturer. One would expect that a product like this would undergo extensive testing. Things like the fact that the lights can be powered by the loose white and black wires without requiring the ignition switched red wire should have been known before the first one shipped. It took me less than ten minutes to discover that on the set I received. The case temperature of 104 degrees implies that the internal temperature is well below the 130 degree maximum sustained temperature usually specified for integrated circuits - especially since I've been told that the amber LEDs are mounted to a heat sink.

 

My other concern is the fact that important opportunities were missed in the design. For example, merely swapping the position on the internal circuit board where the white and red wires are attached would have made most of the replacement harness unnecessary - the lamps could have been plugged into the factory harness. I won't go into a detailed description here as I have already done so by email with Dan.

 

I think these lights are an excellent "beta" of a product that could be outstanding with some more work.

[shoulinpanther]

Done! Was actually really simple once I figured out the damn u clips. I am not using the harness for them to he DRLs they are pretty damn bright. I do like them a lot good job Dan.

[candurin]

So Wizard, what's the easiest way to wire these up, utilizing the most oem components and keeping courtesy function (for informational purposes only, of course!)? Any way to use the stock vertical light harness?

 

Mind you, I'll have my bumper off while wiring everything (I'm replacing my grille inserts and want to do everything at once).

 

I think we are lucky to have the repository of info that we have so that Dan's products can thrive and become even easier to install.

Edited July 22, 2013 by candurin

[TheWizard]

Yes, you can use the stock harness but if you do, you get lights that function basically the same as the factory lights except much brighter. They won't work as DRLs unless you provide ignition switched power to turn them on without the other lights (headlights and/or parking/running lights).

 

Alternatively, you could use the factory harness and also connect the white wire to an ignition switched source. This would give you all the factory functions plus DRLs but only at 70% brightness.

[candurin]

Ok, but no way to get 100% when headlights are off? Even if modding factory harness?

[TheWizard]

In order to have 100% white LEDs when the lights are off, you need an ignition switched power source going to the lower socket on the Edge 2 lamp (the socket where the factory harness plugs in). You could modify the factory harness so that the yellow/blue wire that is powered by the parking/running lights is instead powered by an ignition switched source. Then you could connect the white wire to a source powered by the parking/running lights to get the Edge 2 lights to dim when other lights are on and retain the "courtesy" functions.

 

That would accomplish what you're looking for... but why do it? You end up modifying factory wiring when you have a perfectly functional replacement harness supplied with the Edge 2 lights that does the same thing. I have no qualms about modifying factory configurations but I never do it if there is a way to accomplish the same thing without modifications.

Edited July 22, 2013 by TheWizard

[Sparkles]

Depends on what you mean by "act as DRLs". Wired as the instructions show, the lights will be on whenever the ignition is on. They will dim to 70% brightness when the headlights are on but they will stay on. They will alternately flash amber and white with the turn signals and then return to solid white when the signals are off.

 

My bad, they act just like this^^^^^^^, I thought yall were having problems with them acting as DRL. I'll just keep my mouth shut, dumb blonde here sorry.

[TheWizard]

You should never apologize for asking a question... we're all here to help each other out and it's not a dumb question if you don't know the answer. But I do have a whole bunch of dumb blonde jokes I could tell if you want.

[tazmanken]

One thing I would like to know is why anyone would want the amber lights in the new DRL's on all the time with the white light part of the new DRL's? Now this is just me and my opinion but it does NOT look good at all,I think its just to much when both amber and white lights in the new DRL's are on all the time together,like I said this is just me and my opinion.

[TheWizard]

One thing I would like to know is why anyone would want the amber lights in the new DRL's on all the time with the white light part of the new DRL's? Now this is just me and my opinion but it does NOT look good at all,I think its just to much when both amber and white lights in the new DRL's are on all the time together,like I said this is just me and my opinion.

 

I don't think anybody is talking about having both colors on all the time - just one or the other. It is not possible to have both the amber and white LEDs in the new DRLs on at the same time. As soon as you apply power to the black (turn signal) wire, the amber LEDs go on and the white ones go off. When you remove power from the black wire, the amber LEDs go off and the white ones turn back on. That's why the turn signals flash alternately amber and white.

[DFWJohn]

I started to do this myself, but at this point in life quickly realized I'm past the point of wanting roll around on the ground in the Texas summer heat and getting the readers out to look for colored wires. I simply called a local independent car audio shop who said "no problem". I went through the instructions with him (you should do this as he thought he was going to have to take the bumper off!) I told the kid what I learned off here (possible short lead to the passenger side if not run right, and relay may not reach to the back of the fuse box for mounting. Also, be careful when hooking wire harness up as it may push pins back). I also copied post #153 from 4doorharley and told the kid I wanted it like this for the courtesy feature to work. Exactly one hour later my car was being pulled back around and everything works perfectly! 100% with no lights on and 70% with. Turn signals and courtesy function. It's a perfect match to the switchbacks I already had in place of the original turn signals (YES, I CAN STILL CHANGE BULBS!). The shop kids all thought it was pretty cool and commented on ease of installation!

 

Well done Dan! This is exactly what the Edge needed! The only thing to monitor now is durability. They've already been through a thunderstorm and all is good. Can't wait to see what you may or may not be doing for the rear lights!

 

BTW, total cost for my air conditioned comfort, $75. Well worth it to me!

[graniteguy]

I have decided to post some closure to my problem a few pages back. I had one malfunctioning DRL. Dan was quick to respond to my email and sent me a new set inwhich he personally tested before shipping. I received it on the next business day and it included a pre-paid return sticker. Everything now works as it should and I am very happy. Dan's customer service is five star and if anyone here is even THINKING about going the ebay route, I urge you to reconsider. It's just not worth the risk.

 

So, with all the discussion on alternative wiring practices, I have to ask if anyone has powered the white wires to the previous light tube wires. Correct me if I am wrong, but the only difference between this method and the original (headlight wire) method is that you will retain the "courtesy light" function during unlocking the doors. Everything else will stay the same as far as functionality.?.

[RustyEdge]

So, with all the discussion on alternative wiring practices, I have to ask if anyone has powered the white wires to the previous light tube wires. Correct me if I am wrong, but the only difference between this method and the original (headlight wire) method is that you will retain the "courtesy light" function during unlocking the doors. Everything else will stay the same as far as functionality.?.

Hey Granite, I wired the white wire from the DRL's into the power wire from the light pipes. Yes this maintaines the courtesy (lock/unlock) functionality, which I think is a great feature and didn't want to lose it. The only difference between this wiring and the recommended installation is that when the parking lights are on the DRL's will be @ 70% now instead of the full 100%.

 

But even at 70% these lights are brighter than the factory ones so it's still a win win. Also, I don't know about you, but the only reason I used to turn the parking lights on at all was to turn the factory light pipes on, especially around dusk. Now with the DRL function I don't have any need to even turn the parking lights on, I just wait until the headlights come one now and this keeps the DRL's at 100%!!

 

-Russ

[mclellan83]

Anyone Having Hid Problems? Everything Was Running great For A While But Now Both hids Seem To Not Be Getting Enough Power. I Always Have It On The Auto setting.

One Night The Passenger Side WaSnt Fully firing, When I Went To Headlight On It Didn't Change And Going To the Parking Lights It Turned Off The driver But Passenger Was Still On. Turning It To Off shut It Down And Then Going To Auto turned Them Both On Fully. Then I Had No Problems For A Few Days And Figured It Was A Fluke.

Yesterday when The Headlights Should Have Been On At First Neither Would fire No Matter What I Did, Luckily I Had my Switchbacks To Look Somewhat Like Headlights. Then Finally After continuing To Change The settings Just The Passenger Would Fire. Later That Night The Driver Would Fire But Not Fully, Then Next Time I Went Out They All Worked Fine.

It's Totally Driving me Nuts.

[candurin]

Why is every word capitalized?

 

Have you checked the ballasts, a short in one can effect both. Are you using a wire harness?

[TheWizard]

Why is every word capitalized?

 

Have you checked the ballasts, a short in one can effect both. Are you using a wire harness?

 

I think the forum software converts text all in CAPS into Proper Case so it doesn't look like shouting (although the proper case is almost as annoying).

[RustyEdge]

Sounds like you might need a harness. I had problems with mine firing when in the auto setting and starting the car. When it would cycle the slight drop in power wouldn't be enough to ignite the ballasts. I changed my harness to the morimoto harness with a ground on each side and haven't had that problem since. I would try not using auto an seeing if this still happens.

 

Going from Auto to On when the headlights at night won't change anything, but going from On to parking should turn the headlights off. You can cyle back to Auto after that and should be ok.

[tpm419419]

So this isn't a problem associated with the Edge 2 lights??

[candurin]

Nope. DTBL v2's work just fine with aftermarket HID kits.

[tpm419419]

Thanks candurin

Didn't know they were talking "aftermarket" HID's