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NEW Photos & Movie Trailer - EDGE-2 Next GEN Daytime Running Lights


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After reading all of this I have a question kc300 if you don't want to use them as drls and you just want them to function as the old lights did do you have to use the harness still?

 

I did some testing and found that you can indeed just plug in the factory harness and the lights will work just like the factory ones except brighter (at 70% of their full DRL brightness).

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So even if you just turn on the parking lights the vertical lights will only be 70%?

Actually no, I misspoke about the 70%. If you plug in the factory connector instead of the one that comes with the lights, the vertical lights will be full power whenever the parking lights or headlights are on. In essence, the parking light power feed in the factory harness substitutes for the ignition switched power in the replacement harness.

 

If that is too bright, you could splice the white wire into the factory connector as well to limit the LEDs to only 70% output. Or you could splice the white wire into the headlight power wire so that the vertical lights would be full power with parking lights on but 70% with headlights on.

Edited by TheWizard
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Or you could splice the white wire into the headlight power wire so that the vertical lights would be full power with parking lights on but 70% with headlights on.

 

So these would keep courtesy light functionality and allow full 100% brightness when headlights are off (even when set to Auto)?

 

And I hate to admit my wiring and schematic skills SUCK (I'm more of a colors and pop-up book guy)! We could just use some scotchloks to connect the white wire between the factory vertical light power feed and the headlight power feed correct? Or what's the easiest way to accomplish this?

 

This is great. Will be much easier to wire up (not that the existing method is difficult, even I can do it).

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The factory parking/running lights (tail lights, side marker lights, etc.) are always on when the headlights are on so I will refer only to the running lights in this explanation unless I need to reference the headlights specifically. It does not matter whether the lights go on because you manually turned the switch or because you have the switch set to "auto" and it gets dark outside - the thing that matters is whether the lights are on, not what caused them to go on.

 

If you plug the factory harness into the new Edge DRL lights without connecting the extra white or black wires, you will have no lights when the running lights are off. You will have white LEDs at full brightness when the running lights are on.

 

If you plug the factory harness into the new Edge DRL lights and also splice the white wire into the same harness (connect it to the yellow/blue power wire), you will still have no lights when the running lights are off. You will have white LEDs at 70% brightness when the running lights are on.

 

If you plug the factory harness into the new Edge DRL lights and also splice the white wire into the headlight harness (connect it to the brown/blue power wire on the left and the blue/green power wire on the right), you will still have no lights when the running lights are off. You will have white LEDs at full brightness when just the running lights are on and white LEDs at 70% brightness when the headlights are on.

 

The ONLY way to make the lamps function as DRLs (be on at full power during the day when no other lights are on) is to connect ignition controlled power to the lamps using the harness provided with them.

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Wizard IF you were to wire them to Fords Factory activated DRL's could that be done without the use of the ignition relay the new Edge 2 comes with. In my case the turn signal bulbs

 

Unfortunately, you can't really do that unless you want the white LEDs to do exactly the same things as your current DRL/turn signal/running lights. That includes not only the DRL function but also flashing when you use your turn signals.

 

If that is what you want, you would modify the included harness to eliminate the relay (and everything above it such as the fuse tap) and then splice the harness red wire that originally went from the relay to the lamp into the DRL/turn signal power wire and then splice the harness black wire into the turn signal ground wire. You would want to connect the loose white wire to your running lights power so that the white LEDs would be on at 70% with the running lights/headlights. Otherwise, they would turn off completely when the factory DRLs were not on (except for flashing with the turn signals). To me, this is not a good option because it creates upper amber turn signals with lower white turn signals.

 

On the other hand, you could use the new built-in amber LEDs instead of the white ones for DRLs. If you connect the loose black wire (not the one in the harness) to the factory DRL/turn signal wire, the white wire to the headlight power wire, and plug in the factory harness instead of the supplied harness you will get the following combinations:

- with running lights (including headlights) off... the new Edge lights will be amber DRLs and turn signals matching the function of the factory ones.

- with only running lights on... the new Edge lights will be white 100% brightness and will flash alternating white/amber for the turn signals.

- with headlights on... the new Edge lights will be white 70% brightness and flash alternating white/amber for the turn signals.

 

 

Not to answer my own question but that may not dim them to the desired 70% with headlights on

 

Actually, that's not the problem. The new Edge lights will dim whenever power is applied to the white wire so you could connect the white wire to the headlight power so that they would run at 70% when the headlights are on.

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On the other hand, you could use the new built-in amber LEDs instead of the white ones for DRLs.

Just an FYI Dan had stated before to not hook the Black wire to anything but the turnsignal and use them as anything but. They are not design to be DRL's and gernerate too much heat.

-Russ

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I certainly don't want to step on anyone's toes and I certainly would never advise doing something against a manufacturer's directions... but I did some extensive bench testing (with Dan's approval) last weekend. That included running the amber lights as strobes for 2.5 hours and then as DRLs for an additional 4 hours. The ambient temperature was 86.4 and the highest temperature recorded on the back of the light module was 104.1 - warm but not even uncomfortable to the touch. The front was even lower, never exceeding 94.8 degrees. So I don't personally think there is any danger to the circuits from running them full time but I will defer to the manufacturer (in other words, don't hook them up that way and ever expect warranty replacements).

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Well, this escalated above my pay grade. I will simply use Dan's instructions, with the change of the white wire to the parking lamps. This should offer the following correct?:

 

1. Courtesy Lights

2. 100% full brightness with headlights off

3. 70% brightness with parking lamps or headlights on.

 

Am I missing anything?

 

And just a dumb question. When are just the parking lights on, if my lights are always set to "Auto"?

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Well, this escalated above my pay grade. I will simply use Dan's instructions, with the change of the white wire to the parking lamps. This should offer the following correct?:

 

1. Courtesy Lights

2. 100% full brightness with headlights off

3. 70% brightness with parking lamps or headlights on.

 

Am I missing anything?

 

And just a dumb question. When are just the parking lights on, if my lights are always set to "Auto"?

 

Yes, that's what you'll get.

 

And the question isn't dumb but the answer is "never". The only way to have parking/running lights without headlights is to select P on the headlight switch (not including the flashes that the car does automatically when unlocking, etc.)

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My husband hooked up my lights, he said he hooked them up as the instructions said. But my Edge2s act as DRLs all the time, doesn't matter if the lights are turned off or on. And I didn't go to a dealership either to have them activated. So why are mine acting as DRLs?

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Depends on what you mean by "act as DRLs". Wired as the instructions show, the lights will be on whenever the ignition is on. They will dim to 70% brightness when the headlights are on but they will stay on. They will alternately flash amber and white with the turn signals and then return to solid white when the signals are off.

 

If they aren't dimming with the headlights on then the white wire is not properly connected... chances are the ScotchLock crimp-on connector didn't make good contact.

 

If they aren't flashing amber with the turn signals then the loose black wire is not connected properly... probably for the same reason.

Edited by TheWizard
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Well, this escalated above my pay grade. I will simply use Dan's instructions, with the change of the white wire to the parking lamps.

 

You can also hook the white wire up to the power wire from the factory light pipe wiring and you'll have the same outcome. That's how I did it, just as easy since the stock wiring is right there when you're installing them.

 

My husband hooked up my lights, he said he hooked them up as the instructions said. But my Edge2s act as DRLs all the time, doesn't matter if the lights are turned off or on. And I didn't go to a dealership either to have them activated. So why are mine acting as DRLs?

They are supposed to be DRL's, so that's normal, and what the relay does for you. What we are discussing is keeping the courtesy light function (turning the white led's on when you unlock the car) as opposed to the standard wiring where you loose that function.

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I would be amazed if there is a Ford programming option to turn on the bumper lights as DRLs since the factory lights are much too dim to meet legal requirements where DRLs are required. The headlight and turn signal options make sense because the lights are much brighter.

 

I stopped by my local Ford Dealer(in AL) this afternoon to have the DRL option looked at. I have a 2013 Ford Edge with HID headlamps. The IDS only had the DRL option of the orange turn signal lights for my configuration. There was not an option for the LED strips/bars on the lower front bumper that we could see. Still interested in what others find out from their local dealers, to verify the findings.

 

Gene

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Installed my lights tonight. Connected them to the original light pipe circuit for now. I am heading to my dealer on Monday to look at DRL options. I have a 2013 SEL without HID so I'm hoping the light pipes will show up in my DRL options. I had my DRL function changed from my headlights to the turn signals a couple months ago because I wanted to install HID. Now I can't connect the amber flash on the EDGE2 to the turn signals because they would be on all the time during the day.. If the dealer can't set DRL to light pipes, I'll have to return to headlight DRL and use the harness.

 

Couple things I will mention. After you learn how to remove those clips, they come off real easy. My trick was to slide the screwdriver into the clip from the back rather than just up into the front. What this does is pushes the prongs away from the plastic and allows the clip to slide right off. If you just pull from the front, the prongs dig into the plastic.

 

I also picked up some 1/8" black techflex braided split loom to cover the wires. It looks exactly like the braided portion of the rad hose except much smaller. Looks awesome and 100% OEM. Unless you knew what you were looking for, you would never know the factory didn't install it.

 

Lastly, I used dielectric grease on all the connections. Not sure if it is really required but with all the salt used in winter here, anything that will help keep the connections corrosion free is worth the 4 bucks for the tube.

 

I'll update everyone once I get back from the dealer next week. And Yes, I did go drive around tonight. Even if the lights were at 100%.

Edited by normcloutier
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Just received this DRL today, and it's a bit confusing deciding how to install. What I think would be useful is a matrix of what the light does when it receives information on the white or black lines. (White - DRL - Headlights/Parking LIghts / Black Turn signals) . So I think I would want to run through a thought exercise to see what might happen in different configurations.

 

So, let's break the conversation between the DRL and Turn Signal.

 

I am assuming this based on Dan's recommended install.

 

1. DRL connects to headlight line. Headlights off - 100% power, Headlights on - 70% power.

2. Turn signal connects to turn signal line - No signal - 0% power, SIgnal 100% flash on and off.

 

So there is also the courtesy light question: Original light pipe lights when you unlock vehicle (headlights off/ parking lights on).

 

If I apply the assumptions above --> unlock car, parking lights on, headlights off (apply 1) - 100% power when unlocking. Now lets change 1.

 

1. DRL connects to parking lights - Parking lights off - 100% power, Parking lights on - 70% power.

 

Now when you unlock the car, Parking lights on, DRLs 70% power. Turn on car and the headlights still 70% power. Now if you're in Canada and have the DRLs attached to the turn signals, the parking lights and headlights are off, meaning as you drive, DRLs are at 100% until the auto headlights turn on, then 70%.

 

So let's summarize:

 

Per the original MFR instructions on a car attached like (White - HEADLIGHTS, Black - TURN SIGNALS)

 

1. DRL will be 100% at unlock, 100% started with headlights off.

2. DRL will be 100% when unlocking or driving without headlights and 70% when headlights are on,

3. Turn signals tied to turn signals regardless if turn signal DRL is on and will be off until flashing.

 

Move the configuration to (White - PARKING LIGHT, Black - TURN SIGNALS)

 

1. DRL will be 70% at unlock, 100% started with headlights off.

2. DRL will be 70% when headlights are on, 70% when unlocking or driving without headlights.

3. Turn signals tied to turn signals regardless if turn signal DRL is on and will be off until flashing.

 

Now I haven't tested any of this, and I am going on only assumptions based on the thread I've read so far. I will try to test this soon on my 2011 Edge and report back if I can. Please let me know if my logic seems wrong, or if Dan feels my assumptions are wrong.

Edited by CMOS
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So let's summarize:

 

Per the original MFR instructions on a car attached like (White - HEADLIGHTS, Black - TURN SIGNALS)

 

1. DRL will be 100% at unlock, 100% started with headlights off.

2. DRL will be 100% when unlocking or driving without headlights and 70% when headlights are on,

3. Turn signals tied to turn signals regardless if turn signal DRL is on and will be off until flashing.

 

Move the configuration to (White - PARKING LIGHT, Black - TURN SIGNALS)

 

1. DRL will be 70% at unlock, 100% started with headlights off.

2. DRL will be 70% when headlights are on, 70% when unlocking or driving without headlights.

3. Turn signals tied to turn signals regardless if turn signal DRL is on and will be off until flashing.

 

Now I haven't tested any of this, and I am going on only assumptions based on the thread I've read so far. I will try to test this soon on my 2011 Edge and report back if I can. Please let me know if my logic seems wrong, or if Dan feels my assumptions are wrong.

Hey CMOS, someone can correct me if I'm wrong but if you hook the DRL's up as per the MFR instructions you actually loose the courtesy or unlock function of the stock light pipes. The new DRL's white wire is hooked into the headlights which at least on my '11 do not flash or come on when the car is unlocked. Rather the turn signals and the light pipes flash and stay on for the courtesy function. The main power signal for these DRL's is the ingntion as per the relay, therefore when you unlock and there is no ignition they will not operate.

 

If you want the courtesy or unlock function you need to connect the white wire to either the power wire for the turn signals or for the light pipes. I chose the light pipes simply because they are already down in the bumper and you then only need to run the black wire up to the turn signals. This will have the white lights of the DRL on when you unlock @ 70%, then when the ignition is initiated they will switch to 100% (as long as the door is closed). They will also then be @ 70% when the parking lights are on as opposed to 100% as per Dan's design but I would rather have that the lose the courtesy function. 70% for these lights is still muuuuuuuuch better than the stock lights.

 

Hope this helps a little, I know I was confused in the beginning of this process but pretty much got it figured out now.

Thanks,

-Russ

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Russ is correct... the configuration in the installation instructions result in the loss of the "courtesy" lock/unlock function.

 

There are four wires connecting to the new DRL lamps. The replacement harness has red and black wires (for power and ground respectively) and there are two additional wires (white and black) through a rubber grommet above the harness plug.

 

The black wire in the harness must be connected to ground in order for any of the light functions to work.

 

Applying power to the white wire will light the white LEDs at 70% regardless of other connections (except the ground previously mentioned). This is why changing the installation so that the white wire connects to the original vertical light connector retains the courtesy lock/unlock function.

 

Applying power to the loose black wire (the one from the rubber grommet) lights the amber LEDs at full power and turns off the white LEDs if they were on regardless of other connections. Given constant power, the amber LEDs will stay on and the white LEDs will stay off. With the on/off flashing power from the turn signal circuit, the amber LEDs will flash together with the other turn signals. If the white LEDs were on, they will flash alternately with the amber LEDs.

 

Applying power to the red wire lights the white LEDs - at full power if nothing else is powered or at 70% if the white wire also has power.

 

To make the lamps work as DRLs, the module must be connected to ignition controlled power either with the red wire (100%) or the white wire (70%).

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