HOW TO add OEM Remote Start (2015+)

[Nhorn1983]

I think you are right. What was easiest for me was searching for a same year edge st, Checking the build date and if it was close to mine and within the part number dates ordering that part number that the researched Edge had. There is one Ford parts site that if you input the VIN it will give you the modules and parts that build has. 

[Wubster100]

On 3/12/2024 at 7:55 AM, Yurez said:

From personal experience in installing remote start and installing a new RTM unit. My 2018 EDGE had an RTM installed from a 2015 MUSTANG and naturally the wheel pressure sensors stopped working. I updated the RTM to the latest firmware from a 2020 machine. And retrained the pressure sensors. After that everything worked.

How did you know that the module was from a 2015 Mustang? What did you do to upgrade the firmware? Did you just need to change the asbuilt data or did you need firmware files?

[Wubster100]

I ordered a ML3Z15607G and a 5 button fob even though I don't have a power liftgate. I will find out if it works.

[Yurez]

16 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

How did you know that the module was from a 2015 Mustang? What did you do to upgrade the firmware? Did you just need to change the asbuilt data or did you need firmware files?

Based on the part number, I determined that it belonged to a Mustang. then I found a Ford Edge about the same year using the VIN code and used the files for the firmware
 

[Wubster100]

I only have one key, so I will need a locksmith to program a second key. My understanding is that the RTM is not required for programming a key? If the key is programmed correctly, it should be able to start the car using the emergency slot inside of the center console? My plan is to: 1. Save the asbuilt data from my old RTM. 2. Install the new RTM. 3. I should still be able to start the car with my old 300mhz key using the emergency slot. 3. Make the new asbuilt changes to the new RTM and enable remote start. 4. Have a locksmith program the new 900mhz key. 5. Hopefully the new key should work.

[Yurez]

18 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

I only have one key, so I will need a locksmith to program a second key. My understanding is that the RTM is not required for programming a key? If the key is programmed correctly, it should be able to start the car using the emergency slot inside of the center console? My plan is to: 1. Save the asbuilt data from my old RTM. 2. Install the new RTM. 3. I should still be able to start the car with my old 300mhz key using the emergency slot. 3. Make the new asbuilt changes to the new RTM and enable remote start. 4. Have a locksmith program the new 900mhz key. 5. Hopefully the new key should work.

To program the keys you need a new RTM. There is no point in saving the configuration of the old Rtm.
 

[Wubster100]

 

I got my new 900mhz RTM and key fob. I remove the old 300mhz RTM and replaced it with the new 900mhz RTM. As expected, my old 300mhz key fob only works in the emergency slot, and I lost TPMS. I got a DTC: RTM U2100:00-2F Initial Configuration Not Complete. I went to the AsBuilt Configuration for the RTM and I loaded factory data from the internet. Then I did the module reset for the RTM. The DTC still remained. 
 

I did the tire pressure monitoring system train, and I was asked to retrain the front left tire. I don’t have the TPMS learning tool so I let about 6psi out of the tire instead. It didn’t seem to do anything so I just aborted the TPMS procedure. I took a drive and about a minute later my tire pressures started to pop up in the IPC because they automatically learned.

 

I have tried to do the RTM module reset multiple times but the DTC still remains. Maybe I have to plug in my 300mhz RTM and save the AsBuilt data and write it to the new 900mhz RTM?? I only have one 300mhz key, and I haven’t programmed any 900mhz keys yet.

[Wubster100]

11 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Maybe I have to plug in my 300mhz RTM and save the AsBuilt data and write it to the new 900mhz RTM??

I removed the new 900mhz RTM and installed the 300mhz RTM. The DTC went away. I saved the AsBuilt data file to my computer. I installed the 900mhz RTM again and I wrote the AsBuilt file that I just saved to it. It said no data to write, but I just did the force write anyway and the DTC disappeared. I did the RTM module reboot and TPMS relearn mode. I went for a short drive and the tire pressures are working again with the 900mhz RTM. Now all I need to do is get a locksmith to program my 900mhz key.

[omar302]

22 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Now all I need to do is get a locksmith to program my 900mhz key.

 

You may want to try ForScan as they added BCM/BdyCM "PATS Programming" for erase and program keys function since version 2.3.56 (2023-09-07).

 

I successfully tried PATS programming on older Fords, however, I have a paid license, not sure if it is a requirement for PATS or not.

[Wubster100]

8 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

You may want to try ForScan as they added BCM/BdyCM "PATS Programming" for erase and program keys function since version 2.3.56 (2023-09-07).

 

I successfully tried PATS programming on older Fords, however, I have a paid license, not sure if it is a requirement for PATS or not.

I thought FORScan PATS programming only works up to MY2020. I believe that PATS changed for 2021?

[colinc755]

9 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

You may want to try ForScan as they added BCM/BdyCM "PATS Programming" for erase and program keys function since version 2.3.56 (2023-09-07).

 

I successfully tried PATS programming on older Fords, however, I have a paid license, not sure if it is a requirement for PATS or not.

Has that worked for you on an Edge with the new fob? (I think like 2016+) As far as I have seen, the old PATS programming modes in ForScan do not work on any Edges after 1st gen. I think Ford uses some system with registered locksmiths to gain access to the PATS system on all of their vehicles. I originally had a blurb about it in the original write-up for this, but I thought it sounded too much like complaining. Maybe it does prevent theft and misuse, but to be honest the rate of theft on cars hasn't changed since they did this. The only thing that has changed is being forced to pay someone that gets a few more buttons to click on a screen than you do. 

[omar302]

15 hours ago, colinc755 said:

Has that worked for you on an Edge with the new fob? (I think like 2016+) As far as I have seen, the old PATS programming modes in ForScan do not work on any Edges after 1st gen.

 

I never had to try.

However, on the private Beta ForScan (this post if you can open it) forum someone with a 2019 Edge confirmed it worked for him.

 

 

Edit: post is quoted below.

 

Big success today with 2.4.10 and PATS programming 2 new keys for my 2019 Edge.

 

Warning: I take no ownership for anyone following in my footsteps. You're at your own risk. I'm just sharing my experience as there doesn't seem to be a lot of posts about successfully using this feature in the same scenario, except for a post I found on a Mustang forum.

 

_______________________________

Quote

 

Brief rundown:

- Bought the vehicle used and only got 1 OEM key. I did NOT want to erase existing keys; just add new ones.

- I ordered two clone keys from eBay making sure the FCC number matched my OEM key.

- They arrived yesterday, shipped from Kentucky, but definitely Chinese made. It's fine.

- The Bad #1 - one package had a different FCC # on it than what I ordered. Neither key has the # etched on them, so it could be very easy to mix them up if not careful!

- The Bad #2 - both keys have smaller batteries than the OEM key, and it looks like there's no way to remove them without cracking the entire shell open in two spots as the battery has a metal cover over it. I might fiddle with them some more, but for now, they're fine.

- Hopped into my Edge and launched ForScan using the OBDLink EX USB with up-to-date firmware and ensured my laptop was on WiFi with a good signal.

- I was NOT able to see if the keys were compatible by doing this check: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1581. Not sure why... but no messages came up for me in the DTCs -- good or bad -- when I put the clone keys in the secret spot in the center console.

- I started PATS programming and confirmed the vehicle was aware of 2 keys: the OEM key and the lost OEM key (RIP).

- It is important to note my setup: Original OEM key and Clone key #2 (wrong-FCC) were on my passenger seat. Clone key #1 (good-FCC), I put directly in the secret spot. I did not need to put the OEM key in the secret spot during the process.

- I selected Ignition Key Programming only. I was 100% not willing to erase any keys because I didn't know if either clone key would legitimately work and didn't want to risk locking myself out.

- I did not get the "incode/outcode" message or the 12-minute time-out. With this range of vehicles, it's all automatic

- I followed the on-screen instructions. At one point it says "insert key 1" into the slot" and this worried me! I thought this might mean my OEM key, but NO. This just means to insert the first key you want programmed. I already had it in the slot, so I selected OK.

- 5 seconds later, PATS programming successful!

- I turned the car off and on as instructed, then used the Clone Key #1 to unlock/lock doors, open/close the rear door, and even remote start. Perfection.

- I then repeated the exact process for Clone Key #2, and you'll never guess what happened... IT WORKED. All buttons function as desired.

 

At the end of the day, I have 3 keys (1 OEM, 2 Clones) that all work perfectly, and 1 key lost into the void of the "sorry we only got one key with this used vehicle" dealership. Sure I could run the erase function and start over, but I'm not worried about that lost key ever coming into contact with my vehicle, so I think I'm safe.

 

Now... I have to get the keys cut. I suspect nobody will be willing to JUST cut them for me, since they're clones and I don't need to pay their extortive reprogramming fees. I figure having one good emergency key is fine for now, if nobody will cut the others.

 

Huge thanks to ForScan and their software! I was genuinely anxious about the whole process, worried that I'd do something wrong, but it was easy as can be in the end.

 

 

Edited April 22 by omar302

[Wubster100]

Locksmith came and was able to program and cut the new 900mhz fob. I used the 5 button aftermarket clone fob and everything worked instantly. I don’t have a power liftgate, but when I press the 2x trunk button, the liftgate unlocks as if I pressed the button on the bottom of it. 

[Yurez]

7 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Locksmith came and was able to program and cut the new 900mhz fob. I used the 5 button aftermarket clone fob and everything worked instantly. I don’t have a power liftgate, but when I press the 2x trunk button, the liftgate unlocks as if I pressed the button on the bottom of it. 

Good afternoon. What year is your car? Can you post the dashboard configuration?

[Wubster100]

4 hours ago, Yurez said:

Good afternoon. What year is your car? Can you post the dashboard configuration?

Certainly! It is a 2021 Ford Edge SEL. What configuration do you need?