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I read a number of posts here and spent more painstaking hours than I care to confess trying to get the power straightened out for my recent ROVE R3 dash cam installation. As we all know, that driver's-side dashboard fuse panel is ridiculously difficult to access---but not impossible with tremendous patience and non-stop self-encouragement! Since it seems that Ford mixes things up a bit on the fuse panel each year, I want to share where I ultimately landed---in hopes of alleviating some of the burden for others.

 

So here it is: My "constant power" fuse tap is the 30A "spare" in socket 28. The "ACC" fuse tap is the 10A "Delayed accessory..." in socket 2. 

 

I tried quite a number of different combinations before achieving access with this. If you have a 2021, I hope this saves you some effort. Cheers!

 

Archer

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Why not just wire to the mirror wiring? Slap in a Mirror Tap (or similar) harness.

 

No direct wire connection (pins slip into harness connector, wire tie to wiring harness or mirror body. Took me 5 minutes). On my MKX, power goes on when engine starts and off when door open (after car shuts off).

Edited by enigma-2
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Well, because my cam has a parking mode that requires constant power when the vehicle isn’t running. This permits the camera to record who backs into your car or hits it with their shopping cart while you’re busy stocking up in Costco. AFAIK, there’s no constant power in the mirror. 

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  • 5 months later...

They (Dongar) show the 5 pin connector for 2021+ Edge, but the 2019 has the same connector? They also show SEL and higher, but starting in 2019 all trim levels got auto dimming mirror. I get that they can't know every precise detail for the wide range of vehicles they are trying to sell these for, but I would think they could do better.

 

Does anyone have the wiring diagram/pinout for the rear view mirror? While I am trying to be less of a cheapskate with this vehicle and try for plug and play, engineered solutions and higher quality stuff, I find it difficult to spend $30 on a 12v to 5v converter. I know that these connectors are expensive and finding the plug that connects to the body harness is hard, and this is an elegant solution...but I spent $2 (that might be a high estimate as I bought enough for 5 projects) recreating the same thing on my 2012 Fusion, and it isn't exactly a hack or eyesore.

 

I also have a dash cam from a previous vehicle that I wired into the fuse box for constant and switched power, but with it running near the rear view camera it caused the RKE range to be about 5 feet, and caused the TPMS to fault frequently, I tried adding a choke to the wires but that didn't seem to help. If might have been the actual camera itself. I had to pull it and use one that had a USB cable (I guess between the twisting and the proximity of all the wires) to not cause issues with the other stuff.

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