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Brake Pedal continues to go to the floor


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Hello my name is Cameron and I'm working on a 2013 edge right now and have done the brakes but the pedal is still going to the floor. I've replaced the master cylinder, abs module, put new rotors in the rear resurfaced the front and put new pads all the way around. I have bled the brakes I would say a tot of ten times and the pedal hasn't changed. It'll feel like it's going to build pressure but still does not. Can anyone help?

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  • 1004ron changed the title to Brake Pedal continues to go to the floor
  • 4 weeks later...

I've been all the way through this... brake booster recall (small tear in the diaphragm) HPU replacement (advised by main dealer) Master Cylinder replacement (done same time as the HPU - on dealer list)... braking system felt better for a refresh (car was IRO 240k km) but none of them fixed the intermittent issue... after a test drive I requested the dealer to replace the vacuum hose (at my instruction and cost) as it was the only item pending that hadn't been changed... and they point blank refused. 

 

Fixed the issue myself with a $30 OEM replacement hose and took it in to the garage and dropped in on the service advisor's desk and left after a brief discussion.  My car was revving up intermittently also, which is indicative of a vacuum leak / air ingress. 

 

Hope that helps.  Keep us posted. 

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Basically there's four things that can cause the brake pedal to go to the floor.

1. Air in the Brake Lines
2. Brake Fluid Leaking 
3. Brake Booster Is Failing or Is Bad, and 
Master Cylinder Is Going Bad

 

As you have addressed all of these (I assume you would have noticed a leak), I'd center in on bleeding the abs module.

https://rxmechanic.com/how-to-bleed-abs-module-without-scan-tool/

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  • 2 months later...

Looking at the service manual,

 

1.If the pedal goes down quickly: brake fluid leaks, master cylinder, hydraulic control unit.

2. Excessive brake travel: leaks, master cylinder,  brake calipers, stuck guide pins, flexible hoses 

3. Excessive brake effort: weak engine vacuum to booster, booster hose, booster itself, booster check valve & worn pads.

 

I know when I had this problem, turned out to be several problems. The pins were rusted on the rear, rear calipers were not squeezing to pads propetly and the brake fluid was old. Shop kept telling me the back pads were still good, plenty of pad thickness. Finally took it in ordering new pads & rotors on rear, and a complete brake fluid change. Great brakes now. This was after they replaced the booster.

 

I'd be curious about checking your booster for excessive travel.

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