johnmarkp Posted August 30, 2025 Report Share Posted August 30, 2025 Finally got the time to install the rotors and pads I got in June on my ST. Not that hard to do if you have the right tools. The 7mm and 11mm Allen sockets and the 18mm standard socket are not normally found in most tool sets you buy. A 1/2 inch impact wrench is also a good idea to have for the job. I can't find the thread here, but the idea to use a bolt through the holes for the anchor plate to remove the rotors is spot on. Both front rotors would not budge using a rubber mallet. I only had time to do the break in. So I cannot comment on how they function yet. The front pads had a lot of life left and the rotors were in pretty good shape. The rear pads were completely worn out and needed to be changed. I'll report back on how the brakes perform. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkp Posted September 1, 2025 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2025 I have about 200 miles on the new brakes. I sometimes get a shudder, growling noise in the last 1 mph when I stop. Hopefully this will go away with further use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabangsta Posted September 1, 2025 Report Share Posted September 1, 2025 Should go away. Mine are growly if only my wife drives it for any amount of time (2-3 weeks). She is not an aggressive braker and once I drive it once there is no hint of noise for a few weeks. It took me quite a while to get rid of the machine marks on the rotors, maybe 1000 miles? She is the primary daily driver of it. I drive it occasionally during the week, but I am the long distance vacation driver. I went with the same rotors but a less aggressive pad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkp Posted September 2, 2025 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2025 Thanks, I have been babying the brakes. Maybe it is time to be more aggressive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkp Posted September 13, 2025 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2025 After two weeks I am very happy with the Powerstop rotors and pads. The shudder went away. I had to do a near panic stop this week and the brakes worked great. At least as good as OEM. The Geomet rotors look great as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkp Posted May 21 Author Report Share Posted May 21 Update. From a performance standpoint I am very happy with the Powerstop rotors and pads. I am not sure what to think about the amount of rust I am seeing on their "Fully Coated" rotors. I sent them an email with this picture. It will be interesting to see what they say. I think this is an unacceptable amount of rust on rotors that I installed 9 months ago. I would like to hear what others think? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabangsta Posted May 21 Report Share Posted May 21 I will have to see how the coated rotors look on my 2015 Fusion that is driven in rain, snow, "salted" roads, but the ones on my Edge that lives in the desert are still shinely coated and no signs of rust. The wear pattern is great. One small groove I can barely feel with a finger nail. They still take a beating and don't overheat/shudder on long down hill descents, or high effort short stops (not quite emergency stops, but close). I don't have discolored lines/marks like you do in that image. I only have 31,000 miles in the 17 months on it since replacing the brakes, I haven't recently checked the pad depth. I guess Z17 are low dust ceramic, so on my 2019 Edge (non ST) I did the same rotors and pads. I got the Z23 (carbon fiber/ceramic) pads and the same geomet coated rotors for my 2016 MKZ. I haven't installed them yet. Since I drive my MKZ more and am the more aggressive driver of the household, I tend to go more for the drilled, slotted, carbon metallic pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted May 21 Report Share Posted May 21 I have never found a factory coated rotor that doesn't look like that in a relatively short time and that's why I paint mine. POR-15 High Temperature Brake Caliper Paint, Heat Resistant Coating, 8 Fluid Ounces, Silver 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldandintheway Posted May 21 Report Share Posted May 21 I just installed the geomet rotors and z23 pads on my wife’s 2020 Edge ST So far so good. The old set had some life left but had a bad shimmy under hard braking. Interested to see how Powerstop responds to your issue. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabangsta Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 (edited) I don't have vented rears, I have the solid smaller rotors, my fronts are inverted hat like the non PP ST rotors. This shows pad wear (still have some of the bevel left), the friction area (they look grooved, but they are smooth, and nothing smeared), and the hat/cooling fins (some brake dust, some water spots, I don't think any rust): front: rear: Edited May 22 by dabangsta 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkp Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 Powerstop got back to me and blew me off. Basically, all rotors rust, so whats the problem. This is what they say about the coating on their site. "Evolution coating for maximum protection against rust & corrosion" They do not make any disclaimer about rust. No asterisk! So their coating is a complete waste of money. Lesson learned. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai Edge Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 I have never seen coated rotors stay coated for very long. Give it about a year of use up here in the NE and there is virtually no coating but mine have never seen as much rust as yours are showing in your picture. Your rotor looks like it has seen some heavy wear. I see what looks like multiple score lines and chatter marks. I have also seen several people above mention shudder or shimmy when applying brakes. That is typically from rotor dust baked onto the rotors from overly light braking. Easily removed by application of several 60 - 10 MPH panic stops. This will burn off the deposits. Just be careful wherever you do this so you don't cause an accident. Empty roads later at night are usually best. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted 17 hours ago Report Share Posted 17 hours ago Have OEM rotors and pads, never had a single problem, work great. Never understood why go aftermarket, some setups fade less, but I never had the need for heavy braking. Don't stop any faster (than OEM), in a panic stop the brakes lock the wheels and stopping distance is reliant on tire width (amount of tire in contact with the ground.) In a average stop, it comes down to pad material and Ford is excellent quality. Slotted rotors are slightly worst in daily driving (less rotor material for friction), but do fade less on a race track. (I don't need to make 5 or more hard stops in a row.) Now, as far as whats the best oil .... (g) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai Edge Posted 16 hours ago Report Share Posted 16 hours ago I have found, on another brand car, that pads and rotors needed to be updated from OEM because braking was so poor with OEM equipment. In the case of the Ford Edge, I was surprised at how good the braking and stopping is with OEM parts. As far as slotted rotors I had on the previous car, I found that in wet conditions, the car stopped faster than non-slotted, because the slots gave the water on the rotors a place to go instead of water build-up behind the pads needing to get pushed out upon brake application. This was most important in panic stops. We all have to deal with panic stops once in a while and it can be the difference between a wreck and no interference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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