Performance Chip/Modules

[akirby]

So how is that not an IAT resistor?

 

Obviously it's a really really sophisticated and really really expensive.............................IAT resistor.

[Buzzman]

Obviously it's a really really sophisticated and really really expensive.............................IAT resistor.

Maybe. I am not sure, but they insist that if I open up the module unit, I will find a programmed Computer chip that they burned a program into, that will drive two lines with a programmed response, in amplitude and toggling, with a set on/off sequence depending on what the car engine is doing.

 

All I can do is try it and see how she works. They claim that my ECU will actually reprogram some of its parameters by doing this, and will re-program the ECU further, if I drop in a full tank of Premium fuel, for even more horse power increase. So, have any of you guys called the G-Force people to quiz them? You might find out more than I got out of them to see if this is really any good or not. You guys definately know more about tuning and such, than I do, as I have never really done much of that with any of my cars. I did buy and program a HUMMER H-2 in 2007 and I did love the results, until the ECU crapped out due to some tuner programming problems that the company made good on for me. They sent me a new pre-programmed unit with an update and a new ECU. It sucked because my Hummer was stuck in a parking lot for two weeks waiting for the new units to be figured out and mailed to me.

 

I just don't want any codes going OFF and limping into emergency modes, etc. I want it simple if it works.

 

I should receive it by Friday and will let you know.

 

I am also an electrical engineer and quizzed a few different people at G-Force about it. It sounds like it will check out.

 

"As for a Supercharged Mustange Engine running Hotter than normal in Florida and runs just fine", all of the time, well, that is pressurized air which is basically unaffected by the Hot, Humid air.

 

I own a Twin Turbo 2010 GTR and it always runs great, because it is presurrized. I ran my Lotus at the track on a hot summer night at the 1/4 mile track and it ran 2-second slower than the following week when it there was a slight cool snap with lower humidity (without running the Nitrous that is on it). The GTR always runs about the same at the track, no-matter what the weather.

 

My 20-year Old Dodge Stealth Twin turbo (that I have owned for 20-years), gutted and set up with a Stillen stage III set-up, always runs about the same too, (Turbos pressurizing the engine, gets rid of the Hot, Humid, sluggish mode, of what our weather does to our cars performancs here. Straight built-up engine's here, are effected by this type of weather.

 

I added a 100HP shot of Nitrous/Wet, to my Lotus a few years ago (2005), and it does help, but it is not as good against the Hot, Humid days, as a twin Turbo or a Super charger. The Lotus/Toyota Engine Loves the Juice and has shown no signs of Motor power loss or response all these years. I do have to be careful with the whimpy clutch though, but it is all still original.

 

I do pull times of 11.2 sec. to 11.7 sec. in the quarter mile with the little Lotus Elise, which just depends on weather or not I hit the Juice in First gear on up, or start that spray in second gear, then on up.

 

I did add the nice Intake and would like to show pics. How do I upload to this forum on my reply?

 

Ps. I now get 22 MPG on my AWD 2011 Sport when going 75MPH, 24 MPG going 70 MPH, and 27 MPG going 65 MPH (plus 20 MPG City/suburbs). I was getting 16 MPG City and 18-20 MPG going 70-75MPH. So, the Intake did this so far for me.

 

It also has a nice throaty sound when it runs up to 4000 RPM's, plus a little bit of a Super charger whistle noise when you get on it, and it sounds like an Evil Bear, when it hits 6000 RPMs. I think it pulls a little stronger, but that is hard to tell with just this little extra horse power added.

 

So, I try things and see how they work.

Edited October 29, 2010 by Buzzman

[akirby]

If you're an engineer then you should be able to figure this out yourself. The g force install instructions say

The GForce module installs into your FORD EDGE's engine bay and is connected via 2 wires that plug into the IAT sensor.

 

The IAT sensor measures the ambient temperature of the incoming air. It transmits this to the ECU by changing the resistance in the circuit. The ECU sees this and adjusts accordingly. You're just fooling the engine into thinking the air temp is different. That's all that it can possibly do if it plugs into the IAT sensor.

 

Now it may very well have a chip and programming but it still can't do anything other than trick the ECU about the ambient air temp no matter how intelligently it may do it.

[Blivit]

 

"As for a Supercharged Mustange Engine running Hotter than normal in Florida and runs just fine", all of the time, well, that is pressurized air which is basically unaffected by the Hot, Humid air.

 

 

Incorrect; look it up.

 

I too am an engineer which is why I would never use an IAT resistor.

 

Like I said, you do what you want. They are obviously selling these things and ill informed consumers buy them.

[Sparky]

Sorry, we do not yet support the 2011.

Why would you start messing around with performance chip. All the gained horse power is a scam .....

You guys are crazy ....

[akirby]

Why would you start messing around with performance chip. All the gained horse power is a scam .....

You guys are crazy ....

 

It's not a scam. They simply advance the timing which yields more power but requires premium fuel. It's a little more complicated but that's a basic tuning action, even before computers and it works.

[Blivit]

Why would you start messing around with performance chip. All the gained horse power is a scam .....

You guys are crazy ....

 

Hard to tell if this is sarcasm...

[Loosecannon]

I love reading Akirby's responses to questions regarding the brake rotors, pads, and ECU. LOL.... Your knowledgeable, AND correct,.... just funny reading your response to people who don't quite get it. LMAO!!!

 

-Cannon

[Buzzman]

It's not a scam. They simply advance the timing which yields more power but requires premium fuel. It's a little more complicated but that's a basic tuning action, even before computers and it works.

YEP! Now that I got the wiring diagram for my edge, and the connector wiring for the MAF/IAT connector, along with the G-Force unit and their instructions, I believe you all!

 

Akirby's responce is right on too. They are tuning the car by adding Premium fuel and getting a little more advanced timing set through the IAT sensor with this (just as Blivitt said Over & Over, sorry about not listening to you Blivitt).

 

I will still mess with it just to see what it does and then,.......You probably all know my answer. Thanks Blivitt. Thanks Akirby. Thank you everyone!

 

I guess the ecu will reprogram itself to a little higher advanced timing setting by doing the G-Force chip, but I got a decent ecu switch (or reprogramming after driving 50-miles or so) and a noticable power increase and increased gas mileage bump, already, when I added the nice, large air intake with a K&N filter.

 

I think the change in power & mileage might be about at the same level of results doing one or the other. I will test it to see if it goes up even more, by adding the g-Force Chip and Premium fuel added along with the nice Air Intake to accompany the extra air that it wants and needs when doing this. We will see, and then, I will make my decision to let it stay, or send it back.

I told you that I like playing with things to see how they work or don't work. I won't do it for long, if it is a Mickey Mouse type of thing.

 

PS. How do I set up my pics for this Forum when all I see is a web site link that is needed to get it assigned to my reply? I set up some pics in the gallery of the intake on my car. I don't know how to address it to place one pic here.

Edited October 30, 2010 by Buzzman

[Buzzman]

q

Edited October 30, 2010 by Buzzman

[Dreamss]

Hey Buzzman,

 

Where did you get the intake system from? Saw your pics, the setup looks sweet and your car is really nice, love the White sport!

 

Is the intake made specifically for the 2011 Edge?

 

Would it work on a Limited Model and will using this intake void my warranty with Ford? I heard for Cold air intakes or new air setups like yours, you need to make sure it's approved with Ford first?

 

Thanks!

[Buzzman]

Incorrect; look it up.

 

I too am an engineer which is why I would never use an IAT resistor.

 

Like I said, you do what you want. They are obviously selling these things and ill informed consumers buy them.

I got NOTHING to do with Chips or selling them.

 

You can look up BuzzmanAwnings.com. That is what I do and have done for 25-years.

[Buzzman]

Hey Buzzman,

 

Where did you get the intake system from? Saw your pics, the setup looks sweet and your car is really nice, love the White sport!

 

Is the intake made specifically for the 2011 Edge?

 

Would it work on a Limited Model and will using this intake void my warranty with Ford? I heard for Cold air intakes or new air setups like yours, you need to make sure it's approved with Ford first?

 

Thanks!

I got it from Rick Gandoy at ProzenMotors.com. It was $115 +$35 for the K&N cone filter upgrade and $20 for priority shipping.

 

My car has been running like a BEAR and GROWLs as it pulls really nice and strong. I still have great mileage numbers even with my AWD 2011 3.7 Engine.

 

I have been getting 25-27 MPG Highway, and I just ran a full tank of Premium, and the mileage is no-better, but the power,......is even Better, Noticably better!

 

Sorry about the Supercharger in Hot weather. I thought they were not susceptible to the Heat & Humidity on the quarter mile runs at the track. My Turbos run pretty consistant, no-matter what the weather or conditions, but yes,.....when it is cool, like 50-degrees, well, then, I run even better.

Edited November 2, 2010 by Buzzman

[Blivit]

You may want to log your fuel trims to see how they have been affected by the intake. Intakes like that will typically lean the afr mixture due to the increased airflow. The factory computer is able to compensate +/- 25% but ideally you want that compensation to be as small as possible for optimal efficiency.

 

The edge may not be as prone to changes in airflow causing problems but many new fords that are drive by wire (like the edge) are.

[Buzzman]

You may want to log your fuel trims to see how they have been affected by the intake. Intakes like that will typically lean the afr mixture due to the increased airflow. The factory computer is able to compensate +/- 25% but ideally you want that compensation to be as small as possible for optimal efficiency.

 

The edge may not be as prone to changes in airflow causing problems but many new fords that are drive by wire (like the edge) are.

 

I don't think that having a regular tube size with a standard K&N Cone Filter is going to change things by very much in the amount of extra air that the engine is sucking in, but I may be able to get my Ford guys to check and do a diagnostic just to see where we are on things (especially since I now have the G-Force chip added and running Excellent).

 

I finally got to talk to the Technical guys at G-Tech and they did tell my how their programmed chip works and how it controls the engine and ECU, while (they say) keeping things totally safe and with-in warranty specs.

 

Here Goes: The tech said that the chip is always turned on, by running on the voltage level that is coming from the AIT sensor that would be connected to the ECU down line, but we have tapped inbetween this connection (between the ECU and the AIT sensor). The Chip only needs a low amount of voltage to run and stay turned on, as the AIT line supplies the voltage for the chip to stay "ON" even though the AIT line varies up & down in voltage, based on the volume and temperature (and maybe the humidity level I am not sure) of the air running past it.

 

It normally is going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage, based on that, plus humidity, I think, and then the ECU makes changes to its programmed controls from seeing these higher or lower voltage levels from the AIT sensor.

 

Now, the chip has been programmed specifically for my 2011 Sport Edge 3.7 Engine, to change these voltage limits to actually go higher or lower than the factory spec levels, but not always, as it is active and does change and vary, based on the voltage levels that are coming into the chip, from the AIT sensor.

 

The main techician at G-Force Chips, told me that the voltage sent on from their chip to the ECU will differ, based on what the sensor is sending it, and it will be different under varying conditions. He said that if it were hot and humid outside, the chip will send out, say, a higher voltage than normal or stock, once the temperature has reached a certain temperature level, otherwise, it may just stay idle and not send the higher voltage to the ECU, than the stock voltage level. If the air outside was cold and dry, the chip may send a lower than normal voltage level to the ECU. If the temperature and humdity were say, in mid range, the chip may run a medium level, or it may not, based on my engine type and the programming from Ford, for my ECU type, (that Ford put in my Engine design).

 

They say that they have it actively changing output to the ECU and being raised to the higher end of the Warranty spec range when the engine is under load, or when being pushed to higher RPM's, or harder gas pedal pressure, while it is actually shutting down and lowered to a lower setting than stock Ford settings, when not needing the extra power level setting, when I am just gliding along on a flat highway at a resonable speed, and not needing the extra OOMF.

This gives me better gas mileage when cruzing, but it also seems that with the extra OOMF setting, it doesn't use as much gas, as it seems to run really smooth, really, really smooth, even when giving it a little extra exceleration run. It is now much smoother than stock.

 

They say that the ECU, having the new levels high and low, from this sensor line, makes the ECU re-program itself and then,......OH MY G--D! The car runs like a G--D Damn Race Car, when you give it a little extra push and run it up to top end (or not)! The shifts are smooth and precise, and the control to the tiny-est amount of giving the gas peddle a little more or a lttle less, is like dialing in 50x precise settings on the gas pedal! Even if I change the amount on the gas pedal, while the car is taking off, the control lets off exactly by the small degrees that I control. I AM REALLY IMPRESSED at how well the car drives now.

 

Earlier in the week, I had the wrong pin-out location and have now fixed it according to the factory MAF, ECU, wiring diagram for my 2011 Sport 3.7 Engine.

 

My car is now amazing even with the AWD, glass roof, extra 440 Lbs. or so, ....IT is Really Fast! I think it would beat a lot of cars out there on the street and definately any STOCK FORD EDGE front wheel drive.

 

It feels like I have added 40-50 HP. with the Intake and this one little $69 added change. JUST AMAZING! I will see if my Ford guys will do a diagnostic on it, just to make sure that it is all safe, but the guys at G-Force, claim that they have programs for most cars out there, just about, and that the limits and outputs, as well, as the effects that they control, have all been programmed to allow the car to a higher limit when it needs more OOMF and then higher limits on running with lower settings when running with less fuel, when it doesn't need the extra OOMF.

 

Blivitt, I would love it if you would buy one and try it, and then, measure all the things that you know about, with the safety needs for these engines, to see if it all is really working in safe ranges and doing what they say it is doing.

 

You know I drive a Nissan GTR 2010 as a daily driver and I know what a good OOMF is when you press down on the gas (handling too). This Edge Sport 2011 has woken up! It is pretty quick, and drives great so far, smoother than it did, with no bucking or dogged out limping off the line from a light, as it did now and then when stock, for what-ever reason.

 

It took about 100-miles, just as they predicted, for the ECU to re-program to these new allowed levels and WHAM! It turned on, all-of-a-sudden! Just like that, It ran like a whole different car and engine. It was running pretty good before that with the chip now correctly installed, but it noticably woke up and smoothed out even better at around that 100-mile mark or so.

 

The only thing the Sport Edge needs, to finish it off, will be a good set of brakes and discs, to match the power and performance. I think 13" discs, 8piston-calipers, might finish it off to being a great driving safe car with great brakes. I may add the HDI lights too, we will see.

 

I will let you know if we get the diagnostics run on the engine to try to see what we have now, but really, spend the $69 and test it. You can remove it and return it later if you wish.

 

I had all of this great increase in engine performance this week on regular gas, and I now get 24 MPG @ 70 MPH and 28 MPG @ 65 MPH. (I was getting 23 MPG @ 65 MPH stock), all driving on Flat Florida Highways.

 

I got 18 MPG in traffic (I was getting 16-17 MPG stock) and I was running the gears up a lot this week to top end, to test it, over and over (18 MPG doing all this all week long).

I got 22 MPG around suburban areas, where before I was getting less, like 18-20 MPG stock, if I was really careful on the gas, and trying to get good mileage.

 

The air intake helped a lot too, (it also seemed to re-program the ECU at around 60-80 miles of use,and then ran really good with getting better mileage and more OOMF).

 

Adding this chip, though,....WOW! THis car is losing nothing by being a heavier AWD Sport, and I am telling you, it feels like another 40-50 HP.

 

I may go get it dyno'ed, if everything checks out in the safe zones as needed with diagnostics.

Edited November 6, 2010 by Buzzman

[akirby]

I don't think that having a regular tube size with a standard K&N Cone Filter is going to change things by very much in the amount of extra air that the engine is sucking in, but I may be able to get my Ford guys to check and do a diagnostic just to see where we are on things (especially since I now have the G-Force chip added and running Excellent).

 

I finally got to talk to the Technical guys at G-Tech and they did tell my how their programmed chip works and how it controls the engine and ECU, while (they say) keeping things totally safe and with-in warranty specs.

 

Here Goes: The tech said that the chip is always turned on, by running on the voltage level that is coming from the AIT sensor that would be connected to the ECU down line, but we have tapped inbetween this connection (between the ECU and the AIT sensor). The Chip only needs a low amount of voltage to run and stay turned on, as the AIT line supplies the voltage for the chip to stay "ON" even though the AIT line varies up & down in voltage, based on the volume and temperature (and maybe the humidity level I am not sure) of the air running past it.

 

It normally is going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage, based on that, plus humidity, I think, and then the ECU makes changes to its programmed controls from seeing these higher or lower voltage levels from the AIT sensor.

 

Now, the chip has been programmed specifically for my 2011 Sport Edge 3.7 Engine, to change these voltage limits to actually go higher or lower than the factory spec levels, but not always, as it is active and does change and vary, based on the voltage levels that are coming into the chip, from the AIT sensor.

 

The main techician at G-Force Chips, told me that the voltage sent on from their chip to the ECU will differ, based on what the sensor is sending it, and it will be different under varying conditions. He said that if it were hot and humid outside, the chip will send out, say, a higher voltage than normal or stock, once the temperature has reached a certain temperature level, otherwise, it may just stay idle and not send the higher voltage to the ECU, than the stock voltage level. If the air outside was cold and dry, the chip may send a lower than normal voltage level to the ECU. If the temperature and humdity were say, in mid range, the chip may run a medium level, or it may not, based on my engine type and the programming from Ford, for my ECU type, (that Ford put in my Engine design).

 

They say that they have it actively changing output to the ECU and being raised to the higher end of the Warranty spec range when the engine is under load, or when being pushed to higher RPM's, or harder gas pedal pressure, while it is actually shutting down and lowered to a lower setting than stock Ford settings, when not needing the extra power level setting, when I am just gliding along on a flat highway at a resonable speed, and not needing the extra OOMF.

This gives me better gas mileage when cruzing, but it also seems that with the extra OOMF setting, it doesn't use as much gas, as it seems to run really smooth, really, really smooth, even when giving it a little extra exceleration run. It is now much smoother than stock.

 

They say that the ECU, having the new levels high and low, from this sensor line, makes the ECU re-program itself and then,......OH MY G--D! The car runs like a G--D Damn Race Car, when you give it a little extra push and run it up to top end (or not)! The shifts are smooth and precise, and the control to the tiny-est amount of giving the gas peddle a little more or a lttle less, is like dialing in 50x precise settings on the gas pedal! Even if I change the amount on the gas pedal, while the car is taking off, the control lets off exactly by the small degrees that I control. I AM REALLY IMPRESSED at how well the car drives now.

 

Earlier in the week, I had the wrong pin-out location and have now fixed it according to the factory MAF, ECU, wiring diagram for my 2011 Sport 3.7 Engine.

 

My car is now amazing even with the AWD, glass roof, extra 440 Lbs. or so, ....IT is Really Fast! I think it would beat a lot of cars out there on the street and definately any STOCK FORD EDGE front wheel drive.

 

It feels like I have added 40-50 HP. with the Intake and this one little $69 added change. JUST AMAZING! I will see if my Ford guys will do a diagnostic on it, just to make sure that it is all safe, but the guys at G-Force, claim that they have programs for most cars out there, just about, and that the limits and outputs, as well, as the effects that they control, have all been programmed to allow the car to a higher limit when it needs more OOMF and then higher limits on running with lower settings when running with less fuel, when it doesn't need the extra OOMF.

 

Blivitt, I would love it if you would buy one and try it, and then, measure all the things that you know about, with the safety needs for these engines, to see if it all is really working in safe ranges and doing what they say it is doing.

 

You know I drive a Nissan GTR 2010 as a daily driver and I know what a good OOMF is when you press down on the gas (handling too). This Edge Sport 2011 has woken up! It is pretty quick, and drives great so far, smoother than it did, with no bucking or dogged out limping off the line from a light, as it did now and then when stock, for what-ever reason.

 

It took about 100-miles, just as they predicted, for the ECU to re-program to these new allowed levels and WHAM! It turned on, all-of-a-sudden! Just like that, It ran like a whole different car and engine. It was running pretty good before that with the chip now correctly installed, but it noticably woke up and smoothed out even better at around that 100-mile mark or so.

 

The only thing the Sport Edge needs, to finish it off, will be a good set of brakes and discs, to match the power and performance. I think 13" discs, 8piston-calipers, might finish it off to being a great driving safe car with great brakes. I may add the HDI lights too, we will see.

 

I will let you know if we get the diagnostics run on the engine to try to see what we have now, but really, spend the $69 and test it. You can remove it and return it later if you wish.

 

I had all of this great increase in engine performance this week on regular gas, and I now get 24 MPG @ 70 MPH and 28 MPG @ 65 MPH. (I was getting 23 MPG @ 65 MPH stock), all driving on Flat Florida Highways.

 

I got 18 MPG in traffic (I was getting 16-17 MPG stock) and I was running the gears up a lot this week to top end, to test it, over and over (18 MPG doing all this all week long).

I got 22 MPG around suburban areas, where before I was getting less, like 18-20 MPG stock, if I was really careful on the gas, and trying to get good mileage.

 

The air intake helped a lot too, (it also seemed to re-program the ECU at around 60-80 miles of use,and then ran really good with getting better mileage and more OOMF).

 

Adding this chip, though,....WOW! THis car is losing nothing by being a heavier AWD Sport, and I am telling you, it feels like another 40-50 HP.

 

I may go get it dyno'ed, if everything checks out in the safe zones as needed with diagnostics.

 

I can't believe you fell for that scam.

[mleber]

Hey Buzzman,

 

I am also in South Florida (Boca). I also have the sport with AWD and glass roof and all. Wonder if you would be interested in a meet, so that I could give it a quick spin. Since I am all stock and have been driving it for 2 months, I should be able to tell a real difference and report so.

 

Interested?

[ablb]

“You know I drive a Nissan GTR 2010 as a daily driver”

 

Will you be adding one to your GTR?

[Buzzman]

Hey Buzzman,

 

I am also in South Florida (Boca). I also have the sport with AWD and glass roof and all. Wonder if you would be interested in a meet, so that I could give it a quick spin. Since I am all stock and have been driving it for 2 months, I should be able to tell a real difference and report so.

 

Interested?

 

Why don't we race your Edge against mine, at the Palm Beach raceway, or,....we could just meet at a traffic light, open the windows (so that you can hear this thing when it kicks, it sounds like a BEAR Growling from 4000 RPM's all the way up), and we will see how we do side by side. Powerline road turns into a nice long stretch (it becomes Jog Rd.) up after Delray at Lake Ida Road. Lets do that.

 

You can send me your phone number privately by e-mail corrospondence, here.

 

I will be adding one of these to my GTR, by the way. You guys can'y squawk about somthing you never tried, but Seeing is Believing,..... but I will try to have the dyno it with and withou, plus run a diagnostics run test on it at jap trix in Riviera Beach. Don't worry, they do the print-outs for you all to see (if it works on the GTR).

It may be that Nissan already runs the ECU limits all the way to the threshold limits, so ....we will see.

[akirby]

Why don't we race your Edge against mine, at the Palm Beach raceway, or,....we could just meet at a traffic light, open the windows (so that you can hear this thing when it kicks, it sounds like a BEAR Growling from 4000 RPM's all the way up), and we will see how we do side by side. Powerline road turns into a nice long stretch (it becomes Jog Rd.) up after Delray at Lake Ida Road. Lets do that.

 

You can send me your phone number privately by e-mail corrospondence, here.

 

I will be adding one of these to my GTR, by the way. You guys can'y squawk about somthing you never tried, but Seeing is Believing,..... but I will try to have the dyno it with and withou, plus run a diagnostics run test on it at jap trix in Riviera Beach. Don't worry, they do the print-outs for you all to see (if it works on the GTR).

It may be that Nissan already runs the ECU limits all the way to the threshold limits, so ....we will see.

 

Why stop there? Why not add a Tornado, a magnet on the fuel line, a hydrogen gas generator and one of those 100 mpg carburetors?

 

P.T. Barnum nailed it.

[Blivit]

I don't think that having a regular tube size with a standard K&N Cone Filter is going to change things by very much in the amount of extra air that the engine is sucking in, but I may be able to get my Ford guys to check and do a diagnostic just to see where we are on things (especially since I now have the G-Force chip added and running Excellent).

 

I finally got to talk to the Technical guys at G-Tech and they did tell my how their programmed chip works and how it controls the engine and ECU, while (they say) keeping things totally safe and with-in warranty specs.

 

Here Goes: The tech said that the chip is always turned on, by running on the voltage level that is coming from the AIT sensor that would be connected to the ECU down line, but we have tapped inbetween this connection (between the ECU and the AIT sensor). The Chip only needs a low amount of voltage to run and stay turned on, as the AIT line supplies the voltage for the chip to stay "ON" even though the AIT line varies up & down in voltage, based on the volume and temperature (and maybe the humidity level I am not sure) of the air running past it.

 

It normally is going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage, based on that, plus humidity, I think, and then the ECU makes changes to its programmed controls from seeing these higher or lower voltage levels from the AIT sensor.

 

Now, the chip has been programmed specifically for my 2011 Sport Edge 3.7 Engine, to change these voltage limits to actually go higher or lower than the factory spec levels, but not always, as it is active and does change and vary, based on the voltage levels that are coming into the chip, from the AIT sensor.

 

The main techician at G-Force Chips, told me that the voltage sent on from their chip to the ECU will differ, based on what the sensor is sending it, and it will be different under varying conditions. He said that if it were hot and humid outside, the chip will send out, say, a higher voltage than normal or stock, once the temperature has reached a certain temperature level, otherwise, it may just stay idle and not send the higher voltage to the ECU, than the stock voltage level. If the air outside was cold and dry, the chip may send a lower than normal voltage level to the ECU. If the temperature and humdity were say, in mid range, the chip may run a medium level, or it may not, based on my engine type and the programming from Ford, for my ECU type, (that Ford put in my Engine design).

 

They say that they have it actively changing output to the ECU and being raised to the higher end of the Warranty spec range when the engine is under load, or when being pushed to higher RPM's, or harder gas pedal pressure, while it is actually shutting down and lowered to a lower setting than stock Ford settings, when not needing the extra power level setting, when I am just gliding along on a flat highway at a resonable speed, and not needing the extra OOMF.

This gives me better gas mileage when cruzing, but it also seems that with the extra OOMF setting, it doesn't use as much gas, as it seems to run really smooth, really, really smooth, even when giving it a little extra exceleration run. It is now much smoother than stock.

 

They say that the ECU, having the new levels high and low, from this sensor line, makes the ECU re-program itself and then,......OH MY G--D! The car runs like a G--D Damn Race Car, when you give it a little extra push and run it up to top end (or not)! The shifts are smooth and precise, and the control to the tiny-est amount of giving the gas peddle a little more or a lttle less, is like dialing in 50x precise settings on the gas pedal! Even if I change the amount on the gas pedal, while the car is taking off, the control lets off exactly by the small degrees that I control. I AM REALLY IMPRESSED at how well the car drives now.

 

Earlier in the week, I had the wrong pin-out location and have now fixed it according to the factory MAF, ECU, wiring diagram for my 2011 Sport 3.7 Engine.

 

My car is now amazing even with the AWD, glass roof, extra 440 Lbs. or so, ....IT is Really Fast! I think it would beat a lot of cars out there on the street and definately any STOCK FORD EDGE front wheel drive.

 

It feels like I have added 40-50 HP. with the Intake and this one little $69 added change. JUST AMAZING! I will see if my Ford guys will do a diagnostic on it, just to make sure that it is all safe, but the guys at G-Force, claim that they have programs for most cars out there, just about, and that the limits and outputs, as well, as the effects that they control, have all been programmed to allow the car to a higher limit when it needs more OOMF and then higher limits on running with lower settings when running with less fuel, when it doesn't need the extra OOMF.

 

Blivitt, I would love it if you would buy one and try it, and then, measure all the things that you know about, with the safety needs for these engines, to see if it all is really working in safe ranges and doing what they say it is doing.

 

You know I drive a Nissan GTR 2010 as a daily driver and I know what a good OOMF is when you press down on the gas (handling too). This Edge Sport 2011 has woken up! It is pretty quick, and drives great so far, smoother than it did, with no bucking or dogged out limping off the line from a light, as it did now and then when stock, for what-ever reason.

 

It took about 100-miles, just as they predicted, for the ECU to re-program to these new allowed levels and WHAM! It turned on, all-of-a-sudden! Just like that, It ran like a whole different car and engine. It was running pretty good before that with the chip now correctly installed, but it noticably woke up and smoothed out even better at around that 100-mile mark or so.

 

The only thing the Sport Edge needs, to finish it off, will be a good set of brakes and discs, to match the power and performance. I think 13" discs, 8piston-calipers, might finish it off to being a great driving safe car with great brakes. I may add the HDI lights too, we will see.

 

I will let you know if we get the diagnostics run on the engine to try to see what we have now, but really, spend the $69 and test it. You can remove it and return it later if you wish.

 

I had all of this great increase in engine performance this week on regular gas, and I now get 24 MPG @ 70 MPH and 28 MPG @ 65 MPH. (I was getting 23 MPG @ 65 MPH stock), all driving on Flat Florida Highways.

 

I got 18 MPG in traffic (I was getting 16-17 MPG stock) and I was running the gears up a lot this week to top end, to test it, over and over (18 MPG doing all this all week long).

I got 22 MPG around suburban areas, where before I was getting less, like 18-20 MPG stock, if I was really careful on the gas, and trying to get good mileage.

 

The air intake helped a lot too, (it also seemed to re-program the ECU at around 60-80 miles of use,and then ran really good with getting better mileage and more OOMF).

 

Adding this chip, though,....WOW! THis car is losing nothing by being a heavier AWD Sport, and I am telling you, it feels like another 40-50 HP.

 

I may go get it dyno'ed, if everything checks out in the safe zones as needed with diagnostics.

 

I've already explained how this chip works and why it is garbage. Search on any other car forum where people ask about these same chips and anyone with any intelligence on how an engine works or how ecu control is done will say the same thing.

 

No offense to you but I would not install one on my lawn mower (if it had a computer and iat sensor.)

 

If you're happy, great. I am not going to waste my time any more.

 

About the intake, again the computer can compensate for 25% fuel and will do so without throwing a light. I can all but guarantee that you are running lean but probably within that 25% threshold.

[Stephen]

I've already explained how this chip works and why it is garbage. Search on any other car forum where people ask about these same chips and anyone with any intelligence on how an engine works or how ecu control is done will say the same thing.

 

No offense to you but I would not install one on my lawn mower (if it had a computer and iat sensor.)

 

If you're happy, great. I am not going to waste my time any more.

 

About the intake, again the computer can compensate for 25% fuel and will do so without throwing a light. I can all but guarantee that you are running lean but probably within that 25% threshold.

 

 

I don't know 'jack' about all this mod stuff..But I trust you...

No one...no one is touching my stock Sport.. :shades:

[ablb]

Why don't we race your Edge against mine, at the Palm Beach raceway, or,....we could just meet at a traffic light, open the windows (so that you can hear this thing when it kicks, it sounds like a BEAR Growling from 4000 RPM's all the way up), and we will see how we do side by side. Powerline road turns into a nice long stretch (it becomes Jog Rd.) up after Delray at Lake Ida Road. Lets do that.

 

You can send me your phone number privately by e-mail corrospondence, here.

 

I will be adding one of these to my GTR, by the way. You guys can'y squawk about somthing you never tried, but Seeing is Believing,..... but I will try to have the dyno it with and withou, plus run a diagnostics run test on it at jap trix in Riviera Beach. Don't worry, they do the print-outs for you all to see (if it works on the GTR).

It may be that Nissan already runs the ECU limits all the way to the threshold limits, so ....we will see.

 

“I will be adding one of these to my GTR,”

 

I was BS’ing :yup: you

PLEASE DO NOT put a G-Tech on your GTR.

 

I highly recommend you get one of these.

http://cobbtuning.com/products/?id=5676

 

or one of these.

http://cobbtuning.com/products/?id=5708

 

better yet, join a GTR forum

 

ab

[curio]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I purchased a custom tune from Steeda last week and I wanted to share my experience. IMO it's well worth the money, and the boys over at Steeda were a pleasure to deal with. My 2007 Edge is now much more responsive, has firmer shifts (but not annoyingly so) and it has decently more pep.

 

I already owned an XCal2 for my old F150, so I purchased a tune only for $65 and figured I'd save some bucks by using the old XCal2. They emailed me the tune, I uploaded it to the XCal2 and then to the Edge. Well I got the P163F DTC error code that I read some others had been receiving. Looking up the code I found that it said "TRID block not programmed"; and after verifying that my strategy code before and after the tune was correct I shot an email back to Steeda describing the problem. So eventually they came to the conclusion that although my XCal2 was updated to its latest firmware, it wasn't programming the Edge correctly.

 

So I bit the bullet and order an XCal3. Once that arrived, I uploaded the tune to the Edge and voila! It worked, no DTC codes thrown. After a week of driving around, so far so good. We'll see if I can get better gas mileage out of it, but I can't seem to keep my foot of the pedal now that it's so fun to drive lol

 

While I couldn't use my old XCal2, Steeda does include two tunes with a purchase of an XCal3; so I've got two octanes to play with now.

 

Anyway, I hope this helps anyone who ran into the dreaded P163F code.

Edited March 23, 2011 by curio

[ThinLine]

The only thing these tunes do is advance the timing a few degrees necessitating the use of premium fuel. You will gain some ponies but with all the advances made in tuning these ecus and pcms, the factory really does tune these vehicles well from the factory but there is always room for improvement. The hp bump from 265 to 285 from 2010 to 2011 was simply a reprogram of the stock pcm. The better gas mileage was attained from better aerodynamics of the front end design. BTW, the design and size of the stock air intake can support up to 400 hp so adding a new smoother flowing or larger diameter air inlet tube is a waste of money. JUst make sure to clean your maf sensor at every oil change and change your air filter. If you want to spend $500 + for an additional 10hp that is up to you.