The gateway location apparently was moved. Check page 17 in the installation manual here: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/accessory_files/2021_RMST_Common_I_sheet_11_5_20_D1_002.pdf

Definitely not the case on this edge.  I have a feeling it might be behind the screen. Are there videos on how to remove the big displays? All I’ve found are the small display removals. 

Many thanks for your time

I have spent a week working on a 2019 ford edge 2.0. When i first got to it it ran pretty decent but didnt have much acceleration power. Tried to drive it up a hill and it bogged right down like it had no throttle then stalled. Fired up again and i limped it back. Codes were...an evap purge valve...changed it...low pressure fuel open...repaired wires...its good now.  Only code left is p0a5c... generator circuit high...but it isnt rhe problem. No other codes.  After i changed evap and fixed low pressure sensor wiring it would still not run for more then a minute and some times not more then a couple seconds.  High pressure reading seemed to die out before the rpm would stumble and die sometimes but not others.  Sometimes it would stall with 30 psi sometimes with 1800...so i threw a used high pressure pump in there.(Known good).  Same thing.  Watching live data with my autel sometimes when it stall at 1800 psi if i left it koeo the psi would climb to 3000 psi... so i check wiring to frp its good so i change frp with a new ford one.  Same thing.  So i order the dongle for forscan and set up everything o can think of ...cam timing good..fuel pressure good...cmp/ckp sync... fuel control valve % everything.  Hell i even got chatgpt involved.  It looked at all the logs.  I checked and wiggle checked wiring to frp again...fuel control valve on pump.  No missfires ever.  Run for 5 10 seconds stumble...stall.  yesterday i even pulled the plugs and cleaned them up with a wire brush and put them back in.  Then i tried to start it with one coil unplugged at a time amd it wouldnt start.  So i plugged them in again.   Then it wouldnt start.  crank no start.  I pull the plugs again thinking maybe i flooded it.  They were a little wet not bad though.  Left the plugs out overnight and then put them back in still crank no start.  Forscan again logs look normal except dechoke is yes.  But it should start.  Peddle to the floor still no start.  Pull plug in hole 2 and check spark...its wet when i pull it...but has spark.  Pulled them all again and going to leave them over night again.  But this is driving me nuts   Went in circles for days chasing what i thought maybe was frp issues or wiring.  Now with the no start.  All i did was take the plugs out and clean them and put them.back in.  Anybody have any ideas or experience repairing these things.  I have forscan logs i can send.  Never used chatgpt for automotive ever in my life.  Its good but it aint magic and even its lost as to what the heck is going on.  Help!!

TOPDON is what I'd consider middle range - there's a few other brands that are cheaper and have good reviews.

Are you suggesting TopDon? CAD$69.00 at Amazon.ca

The Fluke 77 was the top of the line multimeter when I got it in 1983 and it's still going strong, however that is not what I use to assess a battery's health for the reasons explained above.

A 600 CCA rated battery would be consider past its useful life long before the CCA drops anywhere as low as 10.0A   The settled voltage of the battery is only an indication of its level of charge, not an indication of its health/CCA capacity.   .

It's true, the cold cranking amps should never drop below 10.0A, plus fully charged battery should have 12.6 to 12.8V, all done with a multimeter Thanks    

A volt meter is not a reliable test of a batteries health - its CCA ability.