What scan and what was it that you were seeing in this scan?

I thought there are bump stops in the knuckles that limit/stop steering rotation. Maybe what caused the link to break is what is causing the wheel to turn too far out.   Maybe try to reset the codes and then see if they come back immediately when you do a full steering turn. 

I did the larger rotor swap a few months ago. The brackets were readily available on Rock Auto to use the standard non ST calipers. I felt that the ST calipers would be too much change for a vehicle that has Adaptive Cruise with Stop and Go. The master cylinder even for the AWD rotors versus FWD is different, a lot more things are different for the ST and ST PP brakes. I also didn't go with drilled/slotted since this is both our daily driver and our vacation vehicle.   I have around 6,000 miles on the new brakes and all is wearing well, all advanced braking things like stop and go adaptive cruise, ABS, etc work, and they have been hammered on and no fade in the mountains as before.   Make sure you have a large enough spare for the front, or know you will be putting the spare on the rear if you get a flat in the front. I found a relatively cheap 18 inch spare from an MKX.    

I felt that the factory braking system was not effective enough. I decided to replace them with Power Stop rotors and pads, with a few modifications. For this purpose, 345mm front rotors were purchased instead of 316mm. POWER STOP AR85173XL and POWER STOP AR85173XR. I left the rear rotors at the same size of 316mm, POWER STOP AR85174XL and POWER STOP AR85174XR. A question arose about the front brake calipers. Since the disk size is different, the caliper bracket is subject to replacement. I could not find one separately. I found calipers from the ST version, which are completely suitable. In addition, their pistons are larger in size.The replacement is not difficult. We remove the old ones and install new ones, change the front calipers. We bleed the brake system by replacing the fluid. The fluid may not need to be changed if it is good, but bleeding is necessary. 

It's a software "issue". From what I can tell, the car is entering a limp mode due to the left front wheel position being too far out of spec, which is due to the sway bar link letting the wheel turn a little further and have a little more slouch.   I checked for scan and that is what I'm seeing. 

I read the codes using forscan. What is happening is the car is freaking out because the left wheel is turning a little bit too far left, so it's programmed to enter a limp mode. The problems I described are happening due to the software programing when it detects the wheel position being out of spec.   Now I could replace the parts and still have the issue, which enters me into the rabbit hole of piece by piece repairs. But clearly I needed to replace the link anyways

I've owned a couple of these the motorola and the AAwireless variety.  In both cases, there are sometimes random glitches that occur - android auto failing to launch, etc.  In all cases correcting the random error is resolved with a restart of the device (sometimes both phone and dongle).     Android auto has been going through multiple revisions of late, and my aawireless devices have been updated too.  I have had no luck pinpointing where the actual cause of these issues originates.  There have been too many variables to narrow things down before another change comes.     My sense is that for now - some degree of this glitchy behavior is going to be there for the time being.  It generally works for me more than 90 percent of the time.

Instead of being mislead by strangers on reddit, take your vehicle to a parts store where they'll read the stored error codes which will be the starting point for your diagnostics.   Are you expecting the new sway bar link will address the problems you described?

I ain't no professional mechanic but I don't think a broken sway bar link was causing any of the system issues you were having.

Hey all! Posting my experience with an issue so if anyone else comes across it they may be able to find the fix quickly    I have a 2015 Ford edge sport AWD with 220,000 miles   Recently when I would turn my steering wheel all the way to the left, EVERYTHING WOULD DISABLE.   No power steering, no AWD, service Advanced track message, no abs, no traction control.    Only way to get it to get back to normal if waiting for a second didn't fix it, was to turn my car off and on.    When browsing the forums and reddit, I saw many people say it was a ABS sensor issue. Well, good thing I went ahead and just took off the wheel to look at the wheel hub area. it was a broken sway bar link on the front left side.    Ordered the parts on rock auto, I went with MOOG greasable links. I saw all the complaints about MOOG not being good anymore and to just go with mevotech, and then I saw complaints about mevotech and to just go with MOOG. Normally I go straight to motor craft, but I wanted the greasable parts. The complaints seemed to just be "it's not usa made anymore so it has to be junk"    Enjoy the photo of my temporary fix.