akirby

It worked fine on our 2003 Aviator - 12 years ago. But that was a different design. Ford isn't spending enough time debugging new designs lately.

They're buying it back and allowing an additional $2500 in options above the old one. SOP. The question is why it took 21 weeks.

Definitely sounds like a loose pad or caliper.

Ford does not recommend any fuel additives. Can't help with brand names outside the US. Sorry.

Whatever is on the door jamb applies to your vehicle including optional wheels or tires (unless you replaced them with aftermarket). 35 sounds right but you can usually go up a few pounds if you want.

It's simple aerodynamics - reducing CD requires less power to move the vehicle at higher speeds regardless of the power source.

Flash to pass just uses the high beams. There are no separate flash to pass lights. Just low beams and high beams.

Ford tests their ecoboost engines to at least 150K miles (250K for trucks). These are not your father's turbochargers.

I think they changed it, probably after complaints about it not starting and not realzing it was a PATS problem.

You're not pushing it hard enough. You're engaging the 3 blink lane change signal. Push harder to turn it on like a normal signal.

If it doesn't ground the starter solenoid relay then it shouldn't turn the engine over, right?

I wonder if that changed at some point? I see older references to crank but no start, but this was quoted from the repair manual for a 2010 F150:

If you don't count the hundreds of millions it would take to retrofit the plant and line up aluminum suppliers........

But a PATS problem doesn't usually allow the engine to crank at all, right? Other possibilities are the crankshaft position sensor or the PCM itself. Possibly a bad battery ground to chassis?

You're ignoring CAFE impacts where a few tenths of one MPG can have a big effect. If it had no effect then Ford wouldn't be using them. The PCM will maintain proper engine temp by opening the shutters all the way or part of the way so it's not going to have any impact to engine cooling either. The impact is small and as Waldo points out isn't worth the cost on some models so that's why it only shows up on certain models and certain vehicles.

Welcome! The order guide with new colors and the production dates were published here earlier. Job 1 is 12/2 - there is no way they'll actually show up at dealers until late december at the earliest and most likely January 2016.

That only started with the 2015 model. Prior to that the 3.5L was standard and the 2.0L EB was an upcharge.

Small town dealers can really suck sometimes. Are there any other dealers nearby?

Fixed.

Your best bet if it happens during business hours is to have it towed immediately and hope the problem is still occuring when it gets to the dealer and have them check it right away. First thing I would check is fuel pressure - maybe the fuel pump is flaky or there's some intermittent blockage.

Only in Northern climates. Down South they're 4 seasons.

Yes PATS. The battery is only for the push buttons not starting the vehicle.

PAS doesn't use the batteries in the fob.

Especially if that's the original battery. Get it out of there.

Any code reader will check for historical codes even without a CEL, but that's probably not your issue. It sounds like the engine is turning over (cranking) just fine, it's just not starting. When it happens, does it work the second time you crank it (immediately) or does it not work at all for a short period of time? Does it usually happen in colder or warmer temps or at the same time of day (first thing in the am)?