fishx65

I just finished rewiring the center console power outlet. Pretty easy job that took me about 1 hour. I just snipped the original positive wire, capped it and ran a new wire to a switched fuse. Had to remove the panel surrounding the shifter to gain access to the back of the power outlet and then fished the new wire through the console and under the drivers dash to the fuse panel. There are a few switched fuses that are not being used in my 11 SEL.

I'm gonna rewire the center console power outlet in my 2011 this weekend. I need it to power off with the ignition to get my aftermarket bluetooth system (Kinivo) to pair properly every time I enter and exit the vehicle. I'm just gonna run a new + wire to a switched fuse. Was thinking about hard wiring the Kinivo but I kinda like the idea of one of the power points being switched.

Glad my guess was wrong. It was only a matter of time before we started seeing decent plug and play LED kits show up. If these are really that good, maybe they will solve some of the durability issues we see in HID kits. Will be really cool to start seeing beam pattern pics of these in Edge projectors. There's only a couple Youtube vids so far but some of them are in halogen reflector housings and the output, of course, is dim with a horrible beam pattern. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?62146-VLED-LMZ-headlight-LED-bulb-output-picture

Two sets of 55/5000 DDMs with a dual relay harness would be much more cost effective and, I would guess, be much brighter. I don't think I would want to be the Vled LMZ guinea pig. I'm guessing the lumen output is way over rated and who knows what kind of beam they will throw out of an Edges projectors.

Big difference between 2010- and 2011+ Edges. 2011+ is much much cooler for you youngsters. Very solid brakes, sportier ride, big exhaust tips that sound good, very quiet cabin, projectors that work well with HIDs and much nicer interior/exterior styling.

Where have you guys tapped into the speaker wires for your line out converters? Kick panel or behind radio?????

Are you coming from a 4x4 or all wheel drive?? I've been driving an Edge and MKX front wheel drive since 2009 and have spent hours and hours driving in ice and snow here in Michigan. Long drives up north to hunt, fish and snowmobile. These vehicles are decent in the snow but ya still gotta know there limitations. First thing I do when I head out in nasty conditions is turn off the silly traction control. I've gotten stuck in deep snow twice because I forgot to turn it off!!!! I will say that most drivers, who can't figure out that their tires are slipping, should leave traction control on. Why ford decided to get away from a traction control on/off button is way beyond me!!!!

Two biggest things I noticed between my 11 Edge and 13 MKX: The suspension on the MKX it way softer and the steering uses a lot more power assist. Probably a combination of different shocks/struts along with spring rates to achieve the softer ride.

You would think it would have been standard!!!! No sync or USB ports in my 11 SEL.

I'm probably one of the few that have an Edge without sync/bluetooth. Been researching the aftermarket for a while now and finally decided on the Kinivo BTC450. Since my 2011 has a 3.5mm aux jack in the center console, I figured the Kinivo would be perfect. This little unit is really nice with awesome voice and music streaming quality. It's also very unobtrusive and easy to install. Only problem I'm having is that it will not pair automatically each time I reenter my vehicle. At first I thought it was defective but then figured out the problem. Fords have constant power to the power ports which keeps the Kinivo on at all times. It needs to cycle on and off with the vehicle to automatically pair. To remedy this I just need to hard wire it to a switched power source when I get a chance. So I guess the point of this post is that, if ya don't have sync, there are some good options out there that work really well.

Might wanna jump over to the Hidplanet forums and ask those guys. I think it may be a good idea to keep your factory ballasts for durability and startup time reasons. Maybe there's a brighter hid bulb out there.

Did you just call me an old man? I will agree with ya, the Sport is cooler looking. I actually thought my MKX was better looking then any Edge but That's because I'm 49!!!!!

This amazes me Ak. I really have never gotten less then 50,000 out of a set of new tires. Well, maybe one exception was my new 88 Mustang GT back in my young punk days! I currently have 48,000 on my 2011 Edge's Michelins and can easily go another 10,000. I once got 70,000 out of a set of Bridgestone Revos on a 2003 F150 FX4!!! I'm about 50/50 city/highway in Michigan. Are you still doing those wicked 360s in parking lots these days?

Maybe not a big deal but worn out tires at 34K throws up a little red flag in my mind. I always get 50+ out of a set of tires. Maybe someone drove it like they stole it or something is just off causing the tires to wear prematurely. Needing an alignment at that mileage is also a little odd. I've always driven vehicles way past 100K without ever needing an alignment.

So are these Husky's doing a good job keeping the sides cleaner? The flat flaps I put on the front of my 2011 really don't seem to be helping that much. They are about the same size as these Huskys.

I just replaced the battery in my 2011. I put a Johnson Controls 59 in from Advanced Auto but I should have gone with a 65. Just so ya know, there is plenty of room for a 65 even if yours came with a 59. Ontario is a good reason to go with a 65!!!! After a lot of research, I think Johnson Controls is the way to go.

Thanks Ak but this is the only one I could find and I'm not sure if it would work on my 2011. Would love to find an adapter like this so I wouldn't have to tap into the factory speaker wires. http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=13335

Got about 6 old school amps from my young thumpin days that I'm gonna use. Probably use a big Orion for the sub and a PPI, Punch or Hafler for the fronts. These old amps were really well built but most of them did not have speaker level inputs or crossovers back then.

You can get 2 Monroe Sensatracs for the rear for around $60.00 at Advance Auto. These are just shocks not struts so I'm guessing it's a pretty easy job to replace them. Hardest part would be getting to the top mounts which are probably behind the rear interior panels. I'm approaching 50,000 on my 11 so I'm probably gonna switch mine out in the spring and see how she rides.

Nature of the beast with 2011+ Edges. My 2010 Edge and 13 Lincoln MKX have way softer suspensions then my 2011 SEL. I'm definitely gonna try softer shocks in the back this summer. Back years ago I replaced the shocks on a brand new 2003 F150 FX4 with Sensatracs and it made a huge difference. It's really easy to tell how a vehicle rides when you live in Michigan!!!!!

Yes, the factory projectors are pretty sad even though they come with one of the brightest halogen bulbs you can get. Plug-n-Play Hid kits make a HUGE difference and work quite well in these halogen projectors. Since it's your girlfriends vehicle, you might want to stay with the halogens for durability reasons. ALL Chinese aftermarket Hid kits tend to have occasional failures with ballasts/bulbs and it would not be good if she had a failure while driving alone at night. If you still decide to do this, either use a 35 watt kit without a harness or 35/55 kit with a dual relay harness. This will lower the odds of losing both headlights at the same time. I carry a spare Hid bulb, relay, fuse and ballast along with the stock 9012 halogens with me at all times and would have no problem replacing a part in the middle of nowhere if I had to.

Happens every time the battery runs down or is disconnected for to long. It resets after a while. Probably a good idea to put that battery on a charger for a while even though everything seems fine.

Since this thread is getting so much action I thought I'd add another question. What line out converters have you used???

I would guess it's getting in through the HID bulb O-ring. Maybe pull the headlight and dry it with a hair dryer. While ya got the whole thing out, see how tight the bulb fits and change the O-ring to a different size if she's loose. I think a leaky light assembly seal is rare but ya never know these days.