fishx65

Well, the whole reason I wanted the V-led type 1's was so I would not need resistors. Everything I've read on here says they are the only true plug-n-play switchys for our Edges. I thought the load resistors were only used to prevent the hyper-flash problem.

Maybe try running them without the harness. The DDM harness is built really cheap with thin gauge wire that is way to long which adds a lot of resistance. My first harness was a cheap E-bay purchase that would only ignite one balast. I made a custom harness using 14 gauge wire for my 35/5000 DDM kit that works perfect but I don't ever use the auto headlight feature. I'll use the auto headlights for a few days to see if mine work properly.

Franklee, Talked to my buddy this morning and he wants to pick it up. Shoot me an e-mail with your phone # when you get a chance. fishx65@aol.com

Found a set of the original V-led type 1 switchbacks. When I plug them in, all that works is the amber turn signal. The white leds are not coming on at all with the parking lamps or turn signals. I know the white leds work cuz they come on when I first start to insert the bulb in the socket. Seems like I'm having a contact issue. Anyone have any ideas??????

Got a buddy over in Redford that might be interested. What city are you in and can you PM me your #?

2011 SEL FWD. Well, the Edge has been good to me for 30,000 miles until now. Coming to a slow roll, I gave her some gas to speed up and there was Zero throttle response. Took about 2 seconds before she would respond. This was on dry pavement well after warm-up. Not sure if it was an engine or trans issue but either way it could put someone in a very dangerous situation. I Would like to hear from other members who have experienced this problem and if it was resolved. I only have 6,000.00 miles left on the warranty so I'm at least gonna take it to the stealership and report it.

Got the rack installed tonight (Thanks Shaun!). Like Gimp said, it's a very simple procedure. Ya just have to uncover the four extra holes and bolt it on. If anyone else is looking to swap their rack for the strips, I've got a fellow deer hunting friend that would be up for it.

I've had my 35/5000 DDM kit for the last 10 months and it has been perfect. For the price these DDM kits are going for these days I'm gonna order another one just to have backup parts on board. Hard to believe you can get 4 DDM kits for the price of 1 Morimoto. Having 4 kits would pretty much eliminate the need for customer service for a really long time!!!!!!

Here's a set of the factory light bars that showed up in the classified section but KC's modified light bars are much sweeter. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12152-2011-2013-edge-front-fog-lights/

Living in a nasty salt belt, I always rust-proof and undercoat my vehicles myself. That said, it is ridiculous that Ford does not do enough during the building process to prevent early rust issues. The rolled seams on doors, tailgates and hoods will always rust if not rust-proofed properly.

Shaun, I'm thinking we are gonna have to seal up the new screws pretty good to prevent any leaks or rust. Not sure if I'm gonna use silicone or flexable body caulk. I'm definitely gonna put a little silicone on the screw threads. I wonder what they used at the factory.

I feel sorry for you guys that live in States that require a front license plate.

I remember driving an old Ford Probe GT Turbo. You could use the gas pedal instead of the steering wheel!!!!!

Try a little grease on the o-ring but make sure you don't get any on the bulb. So many of us are using the 9006 DDM's it's hard to believe ya can't get them to work. Did you compare the DDM bulbs to the factory bulbs??? Should be really easy to see if there is a difference between the mounting bases/tabs.

Definitely give it a shot yourself. It's tight to work in there but the 9006 should work just fine. It only took me a few minutes a side to get my 9006 DDM's installed. I did not have to notch the base to get mine in. Might want to wipe each bulb down with alcohol before you install them. As Rob Schneider would say, "You can do it!!!!"

Shaun, I'll probably take you up on your offer but I want to do a little research to see how difficult it is to get the strips off. I'm in Michigan and could use a rack during deer season.

Expensive but very very cool. Decent amount of light on the road?

13.5mpg!!!! If you're not drag racing, something is very wrong with your Edge!!! I would have to drive like a Lunatic to get my mpg's that low. I have never dipped below 19.5.

I'm sure KC300c can help you out with your front LED lights. His are much nicer then the dim stockers and probably a lot less expensive then the factory units.

Yes, I'd get a nice layer of sealent on her right away. Hope Ziebart does a good job on the undercoating for you. I don't take my vehicles there for undercoating anymore cuz the one in my area puts it on way to thick which can do more harm then good. They do seem to do a decent job with rustproofing but I don't have that done anymore.

I'm going on 9 months with the DDM 35/5000 kit with a custom harness and it has been perfect so far. Morimoto seems to get the best reviews online and has awesome customer service but DDM has a decent rep also. For the price of one Mori kit you could get three DDM kits which would give you lots of spare parts if you ran into any problems. The Mori does have the advantage of a really well built harness but it's not very hard to build a better custom one. If I was in the market for a kit today, I think I would just order two DDM kits and build a harness or purchase the Mori harness.

One drive down a dark two lane road will show you that the factory halogen projectors are not very bright at all. The reason you are "constantly" getting flashed is because your headlights are not aimed properly. It's really easy to lower them yourself or you could run it over to the closest Ford dealer.

Really good catch C!!!!! Not gonna take a chance on these so my search continues.

That's the big question. If ya look at that E-bay listing again, there is a video posted near the bottom that shows them blinking W-A-W-A which would indicate that they are type 1's but who knows what they are gonna send you. I did send the seller (DT-Autotech) a question (Do you know if these are type1 or type2 Switchbacks?) and their response was that they are Type 1's. Sounds like DT does know the difference between 1's and 2's. Not sure if I'm gonna pull the trigger yet.

Since V is no longer gonna stock the ones most on here are using, the next best thing would be to find the same swithbacks on ebay. V did not manufacture these so I'm sure they still gotta be out there from different sources. There are a few type1's on Ebay that look to be the same ones. V still has them listed but only has one in stock and will not be getting anymore. I'm in search of a set. These seem to be the same: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3157-DUAL-CHIP-COLOR-SWITCHBACK-WHITE-AMBER-LED-TURN-SIGNAL-LIGHT-BULBS-RESISTOR-/230923129180?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14133%26meid%3D5384278046379117268%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1085%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D230923129180%26