fishx65

303 Fabric guard is awesome stuff. Don't even waste your time with anything else.

I've never really been convinced that any of these sudden acceleration stories are true. It does seem possible with electronics controlling the throttle but I would guess that most cases are driver error and floor mats. I had the floor mat thing happen to me many moons ago in an old 77 T-bird with the throttle wide open. I just cut the engine with the key and coasted to a stop.

You can probably find some nice stock ones on E-bay or at the local boneyard. Someone has a cool looking set of aftermarket projector housings for sale in the classified section on here.

Funny, first thing I thought of was Weathertechs, HIDs and LED bulbs when I read the title.

Cruiser, If you are interested in swapping for the strips I have a buddy that would be up for it. I didn't take any pics but it's very easy to do. You will just need to fill in four small holes with body caulk, bolt on four plastic brackets in the same holes the side rails used and snap on the black strips. Ford used body caulk to cover the holes on vehicles that did not come with a rack. Each plastic bracket is held on with 1 screw. You won't get any leaks if ya fill the four empty screw holes.

I just did this with some good info from Gimp. It's really easy!!!! Once you pull the black strips you will see exactly how the rails go on. Remove 4 of the 6 plastic brackets, expose four screw holes that are filled in with body caulk, install new strips and bolt the new rails on. Just so ya know, you could use your current black strips if ya just drill or cut 4 holes in them for the 4 extra screws you will be installing. All you really need are the roof rails and 4 screws. One little tip: It's easiest to start removing the strips from the front.

R, unless you are going to increase the wire diameter of your current DDM harness, I would just run your 35w Hids without it. Don't want to see any meltdowns!!!!

The Huskys look good but I'm not to crazy about them sticking out toward the tire on top. The cheap flat ones seem to blend in better and do the same job. I tried two different flat pairs and the Highlands look the best in my opinion. I think they are around $7.00 a pair.

Yikes!!! Not sure what could of happened but the 1st thing I would do is make sure the drivers side socket and 9012 halogen bulb have a clean and solid connection. If that does not help, check all the wiring to make sure you didn't cut anything. Is everything dry at this point?

I know some others have had this same problem on here. Was it pretty easy to see and get to once you had the panel off? Did you have to pull the latch assembly out?

It's the door ajar switch getting stuck. Unfortunatley, it's part of the door latch assembly which is located inside the door panel. I know when I had this problem with a 2004 Taurus many owners had decent luck spraying lubricant through the door latch from the outside. It worked for me a few times but would always come back. Ford has had this problem with many of it's vehicles for a long time but does not seem very interested in fixing it or recalling. I kinda miss the old pin-switch days!!!!!!

I would say ya gotta spend some time behind the wheel in both. The cool thing about the Edge is that Ford is an American Company!!!!

Well, the whole reason I wanted the V-led type 1's was so I would not need resistors. Everything I've read on here says they are the only true plug-n-play switchys for our Edges. I thought the load resistors were only used to prevent the hyper-flash problem.

Maybe try running them without the harness. The DDM harness is built really cheap with thin gauge wire that is way to long which adds a lot of resistance. My first harness was a cheap E-bay purchase that would only ignite one balast. I made a custom harness using 14 gauge wire for my 35/5000 DDM kit that works perfect but I don't ever use the auto headlight feature. I'll use the auto headlights for a few days to see if mine work properly.

Franklee, Talked to my buddy this morning and he wants to pick it up. Shoot me an e-mail with your phone # when you get a chance. fishx65@aol.com

Found a set of the original V-led type 1 switchbacks. When I plug them in, all that works is the amber turn signal. The white leds are not coming on at all with the parking lamps or turn signals. I know the white leds work cuz they come on when I first start to insert the bulb in the socket. Seems like I'm having a contact issue. Anyone have any ideas??????

Got a buddy over in Redford that might be interested. What city are you in and can you PM me your #?

2011 SEL FWD. Well, the Edge has been good to me for 30,000 miles until now. Coming to a slow roll, I gave her some gas to speed up and there was Zero throttle response. Took about 2 seconds before she would respond. This was on dry pavement well after warm-up. Not sure if it was an engine or trans issue but either way it could put someone in a very dangerous situation. I Would like to hear from other members who have experienced this problem and if it was resolved. I only have 6,000.00 miles left on the warranty so I'm at least gonna take it to the stealership and report it.

Got the rack installed tonight (Thanks Shaun!). Like Gimp said, it's a very simple procedure. Ya just have to uncover the four extra holes and bolt it on. If anyone else is looking to swap their rack for the strips, I've got a fellow deer hunting friend that would be up for it.

I've had my 35/5000 DDM kit for the last 10 months and it has been perfect. For the price these DDM kits are going for these days I'm gonna order another one just to have backup parts on board. Hard to believe you can get 4 DDM kits for the price of 1 Morimoto. Having 4 kits would pretty much eliminate the need for customer service for a really long time!!!!!!

Here's a set of the factory light bars that showed up in the classified section but KC's modified light bars are much sweeter. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12152-2011-2013-edge-front-fog-lights/

Living in a nasty salt belt, I always rust-proof and undercoat my vehicles myself. That said, it is ridiculous that Ford does not do enough during the building process to prevent early rust issues. The rolled seams on doors, tailgates and hoods will always rust if not rust-proofed properly.

Shaun, I'm thinking we are gonna have to seal up the new screws pretty good to prevent any leaks or rust. Not sure if I'm gonna use silicone or flexable body caulk. I'm definitely gonna put a little silicone on the screw threads. I wonder what they used at the factory.

I feel sorry for you guys that live in States that require a front license plate.

I remember driving an old Ford Probe GT Turbo. You could use the gas pedal instead of the steering wheel!!!!!