Tacyon

Yea, I've looked at that "solution" and wasn't convinced it wasn't a dirty hack. (e.i. not a smooth, seamless integration) I did find this -> What if I .... (DO NOT try this at home) Now there are things that no sane, rational person would EVER consider doing because it goes against all logic. Unless/until you realize what is really happening in the background and in reality "as far as the car knows" I linked that video because, I have a hard time believing that there isn't a way to trick the car's system at the appropriate spot to enable the camera. Obviously it can happen because the OP had it happen. I'd like to hear the "fix" for that and if the mechanic could explain WHAT was happening vs "i just replaced module "Y" and it went away." but oh well. Update: I just looked again as its been a year or more since I first found them .. and see this .... hmm.

Unfortunately it doesn't always work that way with insurance companies and what drivers claim and what can be proven or disproven. This time I ended up on the fuzzy end of the lolly pop.

http://www.chryslerwarrantys.com/lifetime_warranty.cfm [drops mic, walks away]

"how many major repairs have been done? Would you expect Toyota to pay for the repairs?" Drive line transplanted from a newer, better engineered model year. (78) and many modifications. However, most daily drivers won't be wading thru chest deep water or climbing up 50` or greater mountains. Yes, as in smoky mountains. And I agree with your point of not expecting service coverage of the "odd ball" failures. I suspect that the point the OP was making was that in cases where it's plain to everyone from the driver or service writer, to the Ford exec who made the decision to extend the warranty on part "X" (example brake booster) due to a high possibility of failure from design oversight or flaw, one might expect that coverage to extend out to the "life of the vehicle". Mileage shouldn't be the litmus test here. Again, I've seen POS cars at <60k and I've seen near excellent condition cars at >120k. I had a Dodge Intrepid that at 225k miles looked like a 1-2 year old car. Point if part "X" fails at or because of reason identified in warranty extension, then it should be covered for the life of the vehicle. Now, "life of the vehicle" is the out. What is the measure of "life of the vehicle"? For that car that is beat to hell, has oil sludge because the oil is rarely/never changed, or very little maintenance is done, that is the "life of the vehicle". For a car with ?150k but the oil appears to be new with no obvious sludge and well maintained, well .. there is still more life to give. A mechanic knows by checking a few things in any vehicle how well it's been taken care of. Sry, that was a lot of text but I hope it was clear and not too verbose.

I'd be curious to know / hear if the 2015+ transaxel has a drain plug on it. The pre 2015 only had this on a model bound for the middle east. Who in the right mind thought it was a good idea to seal a lubricated device so that the lubrication couldn't easily be changed. You have to suck it out with a tube from the fill port. Measure it to make sure you've got most/all of it by volume.

No, I didn't know that. I rarely watch the boob tube. I've always referred to it as "stuffer" as I'm stuffing the caliper with new pads. But yea, same thinking and gets the "shade tree mechanic" idea in there.

^ what he said. And while is its still a small percentage, any reasonable person would think that a fix would come with the next year or model. Especially on big ticket items that will be covered under warranty or are a potential safety item. lildisco, I have a 74' Toyota Landcruiser that has an est million+ miles on it. I know of Mercedes Benz have that and more. Its a shame that we've come to NOT expect quality from our American produced products and I for one will not stop holding us to a higher measure. ... that is all

Not so fast on the "I don't need no stinkin rotors !" Back in the day and on my own vehicles, I used to "turn rotors" with every pad change. Its called "dress em up a bit". Like honing a piston cylinder when replacing the rings. Its what you do. The government has virtually always had a minimum wall thickness beyond which you can no longer "turn" or "dress" a rotor. This prevents the rotor from becoming too thin and failing either at the cooling fins or the actual rotor wall itself. I purchased a old '72 vista wagon that unbeknownst to me they'd been turned more than a few times and also suffered bad fin rot. They failed on the way home and went "full metallic". It was a gruesome sound that I don't EVER want to hear again let along loosing 80% of the breaking force. Actually got to see the inner rotor "rings" bouncing down the street behind me. True story bro. Fast forward to "modern days" and the federal regs are still in place and since we're dealing with safety, cost of manufacture, liabilities, profits (yes, people want to make one) the manufactures of rotors have for sometime manufactured the rotors with just a bit more wall thickness then is needed to be "just thick enough". Look at it this way. You heat craze (cracks in the surface of the metal) a rotor, or stop very hard and the heat causes it to warp giving you the "bounce" in the petal when you stop. A mechanic is more than likely to replaced it because of any or all of the reasons above. Turn a rotor to resolve warpage or heat damage and it'll leave you at the limit.... so you've wasted your time trying to turn them and end up needing to replace the rotors anyways. Now, the manufacture sees this trend in replacement vs turning a rotor and ask themselves, why should we make a rotor that can be turned 2, 3, or 4 times when it's just going to get tossed (save $$$). Also, brake lathes in the corner shop are becoming a thing of the past as well due the the above reasons. Now, take all this and put your lovely wife, sweet kids, and mans best friend, your dog, in the back seat and have your brakes fail on the expressway at 70mph. You'll be rethinking that $50 - $150 bucks per corner that you saved by NOT replacing those rotors. Yes, I've been (on my personal vehicle) a "pad stuffer" but only one pad cycle. Then it all gets replaced by me. Pads, calipers, & rotors. I do this because I know how I drive. I know what the brake hardware is supposed to look like and I'm taking responsibility for my hardware. And I'm confident that a rotor will be (and has been) fine to 1-3 pad cycles with my driving and the rotors I use. To the question of "at 60k, 70k, 80k, do I really need to do this? That is a question who's answer is predicated on "how do you drive?" If you drive aggressively and brake hard a majority of the time you'd have to replace the hardware more often then my grandma does. God rest her sole. I've known some very laid back drivers whos tires and brakes last a virtual life time. Heck, the tries almost dry rot before they're out of tread. TL:DR -> its a safety thing, at 50-60k, why gamble on your loved ones lives or yourself for a few bucks. To quote Nike - "Just Do it."

re: " This does make me wonder if the door speakers are similarly unfiltered." -> I can tell you from the 2011 and 2013 absolutely! In my 2011 IIRC, they were about the same quality frame as the 2013 and presumably the 2015+ except the 2011 had paper cones! In the 2011 I only replaced the front and back seat speakers with the Infinity KAPPA 682.11cf (back then I think they were model 682.9CF) and it was like a different sound system. Ok, I might be gushing a bit.. but only a little bit. The stock amplifier is still anemically trying to power all those speakers and goes daft at the upper end of the power spectrum. Something you also have to remember about as least for the dash speaker, not only is it a WAY better engineered speaker, but it's also only 3ohms vs 6ohms for the stock speaker. (assuming they didn't change that for the 2015+ premium sound) This results is a slight louder sounding output from the Infinity 3ohm speaker. I remember thinking, "OH there is sound that comes from that opening!!" But it was also clean, vibrant sound. Replacing the door speakers in what fits the new rounds can only be "moar better." Now, if there was only a way to get pre in and outs from the head unit. I would be a very happy camper. But alas I'll have to settle for the DSP method.

Wish we had the option to selectively turn it on while driving. Would be a nice feature to check on the trailer hitch while "On the Road again.... Ain't it great to be ....."

As others have stated it's a thing. A federal (or was) safety mandate from 2013 on for vehicles with Push Button Start function. I've read where in later years (other makes?) that it can be disabled in one of the many "control modules" (think computers) that control the cars functions. Not sure on the 2013 being that this was a first year safety "upgrade" My understanding was too many brain dead drivers were leaving them running in an attached to the house garage and either dying or becoming an asparagus. Something about vehicles with Push Button Start and not having a physical key to force the human to go .. wait .. I don't have my keys with me. I must have left the car running! I call it thinning of the gene pool. I didn't have this on my 2011 and do on my 2013. I'm going in soon for a MFT update (dealer only) and I'm going to push and prod for this to get "disabled". I'll let everyone know if they can/will do yeet.

There is a good chance that Ford didn't make is so that it'll automatically reconnect when it see's a known SSID. Heck Sync II won't even do a mixed WEP key.

Hey, Lifeisabeach, you didn't mention the cap that is already on the REF-3022cfx. Did you determine what its being used for and what affect that it'd have when adding the one provided by Infinity?

That is correct info. But, by the time you get your car .... you'd have nearly 50 hours of run time on the motor anyways. When we rebuild motors from the ground up, it's SOP to drain whatever the oil is and replace with fresh. You will always have assembly debris, bushing and other metal deposits. I then run it (use it) for another 1000 or so miles and do it again. Then change to the synth and stretch it out to the 5k mark. Could easily go 10k but ... why.

mjbaker84, I agreed with your assessment of the OEM look and shunned the aftermarket thought until I had to replace the second one and realized the economics of it. I could have replaced ALL FOUR rims what what it cost me for two. The plastic cladding on the Ford OEM rims damages so easily and can't be replaced, the entire rim has to be. Plus you have to consider that you have to go thru. You have hunt these "like new" used rims down on craigs list, ebay, etc. Work with an unknown individual to purchase these used rims in a truly unknown condition/history and have zero recourse if you're not satisfied. Or ... purchase ones that look very much like the Ford OEM's for ~200.00 each from a retailer with benefits. Heck, Tire Rack even has a depiction of the Edge (your year and color) that you can see what any given rim looks like. Just sayin. I was set to replace all four of mine come spring before it (and almost me) met with an untimely demise. but ... to each his own. example-> TireRack

I think I just heard macbwt mumble something like .. "There are many hobbs meters but this one is mine ... "

IIRC before the engine will begin the cranking of the engine it checks a boat load of parameters to make sure that its safe and able to start. Things like choke settings, fuel pressures, etc. Perhaps one of these metrics is just outside of its' go/no go levels. Have you been to see the doctor? (err dealer) When this happened to my 2011 Edge, the dealer said that they adjusted the "blah blah" module as it was slight out of range and that it should be ok. And I never had the issue after that.

Might I make a suggestion. This comes from my having to replace one or two of the 20" rims on my 2011 Edge after an "incident". Aftermarket. They're a LOT less expensive and you can get something that makes you different from the other thousands of Edge's out there. From the dealer they wanted like ~$1200 IIRC for the factory 20" rims.

macbwt has replaced his odometer with a hour meter!

to echo what IWRBB is saying, basically speaking ... the 5w20 vs 5w30 is saying - a 20 (or 30) weight oil the behaves like a 5 weight oil at very low temperatures. a "50 weight" oil is VERY thick and is often called "gear lube". In my 40+ years of working on engines, they've pretty much all called for "X"W30 or 30 weight oil (5W30 or 10W30). The 5W20, lower viscosity oil would offer less resistance via its lower viscosity and hence higher mileage gains. The 5W30 would offer better viscosity retention and lubrication protection at normal sustained loads and temperatures experienced in "normal" driving conditions.

Years ago I worked for the local cable company as a line tech and drove a Ford F250 van with a fair amount of weight in it. I got in dutch with the site manager for using "top tier" gas. When questioned, I sited that simply looking at the increased mileage and ignoring the cleaning benefits of the gas, that the increase in cost would be outweighed by the increase in mileage. So for 3 months I ran nothing but regular "bottom tier" gas and kept very detailed mileage, gallons, cost, etc.records. Then for 3 months I ran nothing but Premium "top tier" gas with the same record keeping routine. I was kind of going out on a limb with this and hoping that I'd not be made a fool of by backing a myth of better mileage from better gas. Well, I wasn't let down. The increase of cost WAS outweighed by the increase in mileage. Not by a huge margin but certainly outside a standard deviation. Couple that with the benefits of a cleaner running engine which translated into lower maintenance costs and he was sold. They changed policy and recommended that the entire fleet use Premium fuel. Tru story bro ....

Still available ...

Per your request sir ....

I've just wired up two "hard wired" devices on my 2013. My Escort 9500xi by the mirror and for that I tapped into the mirror's power used for the auto dim feature built into the mirror itself. I used a test light to identify the wire with ignition voltage - IIRC it was the green wire. Then used a self tapper into the sheet metal brace for the grounding. And then my secondary GPS (garmin) mounted on the dash by the A pillar. For this I used fuse #37 with and tap-a-fuse. (example) Note of caution. Don't assume that everything installable in a car is 12VDC. That Garmin above comes with a cigarette lighter adaptor to an USB. The adaptor changes the 12VDC to 5VDC IIRC for the GPS. Omitting it in the installation would/could have dire outcomes.

"...engines with turbo's" - agreed. reason, it's a better oil given the increased temperatures and RPMs experienced in the turbo itself. "...tested with the blend and Ford recommends it" Agreed on the 1st part, matter of semantics on the 2nd. They don't strictly "recommend" as much as to say it's been tested and found to be sufficient for the expected environment. If cost was all the same, I'd bet that they and anyone else would recommend synthetics for a host of reasons. But I don't think we need to get this into this kind of debate. I was just offering my person experience and opinion. "...worth the extra cost to you?" Yes. (Never heard of an early death of a motor due to too frequent oil changes or using too high of quality of oil.) Interesting read on your link. Very detailed and granular info on what I kind of already surmised. Thanks for the read tho.