Tacyon

From the exploded view I saw this area is in the center console toe kick area. There is a "actuator" that moves a damper around one each for each side. In addition there is an adjustment I'm told to the linkage that can be out of sorts .. this was the issue with mine. They can actually read from the ODBII port the position of these actuators .. but if the linkage is out of adjustment, that won't show up on the scanner tool. ** note: I didn't have hands on for this .. so info is via diagram views and what the Ford tech related to me.

ok - well pulled my switch from its mount and tested .. and our reader survey says .... NORMALLY OPEN ! Darn - won't work for my project.

Does anyone know if the Edge's hood switch is a N/O or a N/C type switch ? Switch I'm asking about ...

i JUST had this done to my 2011 with the classic BAMR roof. The tech seemed to know exactly what was going on and described the symptoms to me to a tee. He said that Ford had first said no lube, then rescinded that and recommended dry graphite (as in the above pdf) and as now recommended the use of blue PTFE. I can tell you that the roof after cleaning and treatment opens and closes quicker that ever and there is no slow down in the final 5-8" of travel. The culprits are those split rubber trim looking parts that extend out the back of the BAMR area to the rear lift gate. Since these are always exposed and not allowed to flush themselves, they get filled up with debris. The process was explained to me exactly as is indicated in the above pdf except the Ford recommended lube now appears to be PTFE. I'd like to get collaborating proof of this from another "insider"

Press the GEAR on the bottom center edge of the screen. Vehicle -> Camera Settings -> Enhanced Park Aids -> On. if its already on .. turn it off .. go back to the main screen .. then back into that setting and turn it On.

Like I said in my other posts on this subject, providing the function to send map cords direct to MFT from phone or PC over Wifi or BT would cause Ford to lose control over something they can charge $$ for. In this day of technology where everyone has a AP in their house, everyone has a smart phone with TB, WiFi, and knows what a tether is and how to set one up, its no longer magic that we need help with. Ford, I see what you did there .. and Its an insult.

well then lets agree to disagree. I feel the main reason they haven't done the send maps cords direct to the FMT via WiFi is that they'd lose control of something they could otherwise charge money for and complicate in the process. You and are on the same page for "...Ford could have done better - there is loads of room for improvement" but then again .. this holds true for them all. Boy that sounded like "I want it all and I want it now". Alright Veronica.

caution ... wall-o-text. sry for the delayed rebuttal .. RL had me other wise occupied. Something about end of quarter backups for an entire datacenter keeping me busy. The "it" I was referring to was more of a generalization of the parts of MFT that ARE present but are half baked and not well thought out versus what the others have to offer. Now granted I don't drive all the others and can only base "my opinion" off of reviews, recalls, extended warranties to cover design flaws, etc. that I’ve read about. Not suggesting to ADD anything. Simply that what is there was ill-conceived and half-baked features leading to what we have now. I think we’re making the same point here. Ok .. you've made a few contradictory statements that I have to disagree …mmm.... with parts of. It IS as simple as what people say it is when standards are followed. By which I mean networking standards. I deal with systems manufactured by different companies that barely know of each other's existence. Yet their hardware works together. It does so because both parties adhered to the established industry standards. “b/g/n/etc.” ARE the standards and WPA, WPA2 etc. are the standards that “..ensure the connection is valid and authorized?” and to that I agree with you that ”..the network connection - that's the easy part” They already have a mapping system, NavTeq. They have access to the back end. All I’m suggesting is a call that would allow noaa cords data to be sent to the map software to be a destination. .. when was the last time you had a “conversation” with your Edge? Edge: “Say a command” Me: Navigation Edge: “say destination address or POI” Me: destination street address Edge: “Say street address including city and state” Me: 123 Any street, some town USA. (btw, I speak Helvetica 12 point so no accent errors) Edge: “Did you say 1731 Buttercup Blvd, Allen Town, Pennsylvania?” Me: wft ???? Edge: I did not understand that! (rinse and repeat with similar and sometimes different results-usually not what I'm asking for) Me: **censored** reverts to Garmin on windshield and has address mapped in <20 seconds. Not to mention that Ford Nav systems do NOT understand fire number addresses weather voice or manually entered. Ex: 41W174 Main St. Versus … Me: while hunting for a restaurant with wife on internet in house, I look up address on Google maps . Presses “send to car” button that sends directly to Edge connected to my home Wi-Fi. Which is NOT dependent on someone else’s “server or service” that can be charged for just because they can or go "off line" … but freely over my Wi-Fi because it’s there. Agreed ... perhaps … if I didn't already have ~8000 tracks stored on a 64gb USB thumb drive or that my smart phone was given permission to sync contacts already. A function they appeared to at least have gotten right. Don’t get me wrong .. I love my Edge and think that it’s one of the more technically advanced vehicles on the road. But, not only is this “edge” (HA!) eroding as other manufactures are advancing, but the areas or functions that are partially here or could easily be so, were half baked and not followed thru to fruition. The devil is in the details and they missed a few. https://gigaom.com/2013/09/10/ford-continues-its-bring-your-own-navigation-push-with-sync-support-for-tomtom/. http://www.chevrolet.com/culture/article/4g-lte.html http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2013/Jun/0605-remote-link-app.html http://www.computerworld.com/article/2499152/emerging-technology/car-tech--the-connected-car-arrives.html <- this one is interesting in that it mentions some of the very “didn’t come to fruition” that I’m talking about

Not to repeat post .. check out this linkage for the outcome. tl:dr after several times while being worked on, they got it into "failed mode" where it failed 6 out of 10 tests and coughed up the failure code needed to get the newer, revised APIM module. 7 days later !

Got my baby back ... 13 days later ! tl:dr: APIM R&R, ABMR lubed with PTFE now works, damper valve "adjusted" - both dash vent are at the same temperature. I had a "laundry list" of items that needed attention. but some of that time was waiting for the APIM module and proving some of the things I'd asked to be taken care of. 1) APIM module R&R 2) (related?) drivers side airbag light would periodically come on. Turned out to be NOT related. 3) BAMR darn near stalls at the 6" closed mark. (binding issue) 4) driver side dash vent doesn't keep up with the passenger's side. Not has hot when heating. Not as cold when cooling. Both by a significant difference. Two things I've learned .. 1) if its to be replaced under warranty. you HAVE to be able to demonstrate the issue. Both with codes and "its dead Jim!" 2) you have to be able to demonstrate the issue to multiple people. In my case .. the first was the APIM module. Luckily I'd brought it in while it was in a failure mode and the service writer witnessed it dead. So when I actually brought it in for the service to be done, and it was working. He told the mechanic .. NO, I saw it [center console screen] was dead. No life. The mechanic tried for several hours to get it to not work which if finally did so. I was told, that they need to get a failure code from the unit that is tied to that units serial it order to get the warranty unit authorized. Since its a code tied to the my specific APIM module they couldn't put "the code" in that they suspected to describe the failure. Out of 10 tests that are run on the APIM module, mine failed 6 of them. Once of which had a secondary code indicating an issue with a transmission module that was resolved by its firmware being updated. I'd inquired about the difference in the APIM module. I DID NOT want a repaired/rebuilt unit. I was told (again) that this newer revised APIM module was a completely difference main board, processing unit (aka CPU) and therefore firmware/software that runs it. He [the very knowledgeable mechanic] said that simply put .. "yeah .. this one works !" The only programming I lost was minor settings for ambient lighting, and the main screen wallpaper, and some sound settings like balance and fade settings. All my stations (radio & sat) etc were in place. No difference perceived in the navigation system or voice recognition systems. Next on my list was the driver side airbag light .. at first they (and I) thought it was tied to the APIM failure .. as it was extinguished after the replacement of the APIM. However, in the "try again guys" for the dash vent issue ... it reappeared .. (remember the lesson learned - "able to demonstrate the issue") For this .. they actually had to replace the entire airbag unit .. (thank god for extended premium warranties) Third item .. BAMR .. I was skeptical that lube would fix it .. but it did. No perceived slow down at all and appears to be slight faster overall. Now.. the question everyone is wondering .. "what lube did they use" and I asked. Ford Blue PTFE grease. And its application was not where I'd expected due to my lack of the rail design. There are two split rubber trim pieces that the rear rails slide back into on the outside of the roof. They're obviously NOT sealed and like to gather dust, dirt, debris, small airboard creatures and even small neighborhood kids. (kidding on that last one) They got into that area, cleaned it out and applied a liberal amount of this blue PTFE lube. And by liberal amount .. I mean .. I requested that they go back over it and wipe up the excess that was visible the entire length. There are also silver "ramps" that divide the front rail sections from the rear rail sections and they applied liberal amounts to this as well. However, it does NOT appear to come in contact with it during normal operation as its untouched after several cycles. The verdict is still out on this one as to the longevity of this solution AND I suspect that this blue PTFE with its sticky consistency is going to do more to hold debris the it helps the slide action. But my "knowledgeable mechanic" Mike did tell me that Ford's first recommended stance was no lube at all .. but they they've since rescinded that and are now recommending the PTFE lube. Forth and final item was the driver side dash vent. When they first looked at it .. they reported that they were unable to find anything wrong. "Working as intended" and they told me this on the phone call that my truck was ready to be picked up. First thing I did was the warm the engine with the windows open keeping the passenger compartment cool and got the service manager. Then I employed the "learned lesson" and again "demonstrate the issue to multiple people." and was successful. They kept it three more days but the end result was ... it appears to be fixed now. Sorry for the wall of text .. but I know I like details when reading for a purpose. My 2011 Edge is going to hit 70,000 this tank. So lets hope that was it for large service trips..

Just had my 2011 in for APIM R&R, BAMR lube, driver side air bag light, and this ... They pulled the sensor put values which tells you what the different devices are being told to do. And IIRC, even what the devices IS doing depending on what it is. The readings for mine were normal. The mechanic didn't visually see anything amiss with the driver's side blend door actuator. So they called engineering at Ford and were given some pretty specific directions on how to adjust the blend door actuator. Now I have HEAT that is the same on both side .. as well as cold. In the summer when the interior heated up all the ductwork, I could engage the AIRCO and once the compressor was up to (down) tempature, you could really tell a difference between the two sides .. drivers was luke warm. Passengers was COLD. It wasn't always this way so perhaps there is something that can get tweaked or ??? but they were able to fix mine. WWWPerfA_ZN0W note: Mine [dealership] said the same thing when I tried to pick it up the first time. I had the service manager come out with me and I demonstrated it quite clearly. Here is how I did that ... Now that its cool/cold outside .. turn off the climate control. Let the car engine warm up(didn't take much) but leave the passenger compartment cool/cold. I turned on the climate control, fan off to to start with, crank the temp all the up and placed it on vent. Then brought the fan up to high. You could feel a difference between the two sides very clearly. They also tried to pull the "Ford said that a 10` difference between the two sides is within normal variance." (cough, bullshite, cough.) Then I threw in my summer time airco experience and they "tried again" and some how got it right.

akirby, thats the beautiful thing about networking (TCP/IP) its a "standard" and as such there is no guess work. You adhere to the standards and build off that. The team that put the labels in MFT area dealing with WiFi connectivity were not networking engineers. They knew/know nothing about how to setup a network or connections. If they do know or had consulted with some entity on what they could or should do with networking, then they either ignored that advise or simply got lost along the way and didn't finish the job. WiFi or wireless is just another method to move data from one location to another. It takes the place of a network cable. Because its wireless (radio waves) you'd want to secure it (the access point in my house) with a fairly strong password or pass phrase (my personal choice) however with the last update to MFT, they [Ford] borked that. You can no longer enter a real password for the WiFi connection. Now ignore that..and lets just say, its connected to my AP in my house, now what? IE, Chrome, Firefox are the three main browsers and I'll give you this .. here is where it gets fuzzy. While the browsers are different, the under laying HTML, XML, Java, etc, standards are not. Each browser interacts with lets say HTML slightly different. But there is a basic set of instructions that they all adhere to and usually one or two browsers out of the bunch will work. This is why most websites optimise for IE because IE is on every freaking windows computer on the face of the planet. (I exaggerated I know .. but you get the point.) Ford didn't even try. They simple put what amounted to labels in there and left it half baked. It was like they suddenly saw a squirrel and went off to something else ! ok .. so lets think outside the box here ... screw browsers & HTML, etc, think applications ! Write a open source app so others could translate to linux. That could be installed on a windows platform. Take the hand off of mapping data from browser "X" and pass it directly to the my ford edge with a app installed on hit while its sitting in my driveway via WiFi. Again, this would require a car company to have computer and software engineers on staff. But given the fact that they're wanting to at least be a technology leader and have hi-tech, computerized hardware in their cars that gets interfaced by the driver (users), its not outside the realm of sanity. But they've given us none of this ... the closest you're going to get to a real end-user experience, and a friendly(?) interface is to pay $$ for the Ford Sync Service and be reliant on their servers. I feel they missed a opportunity. GM and several others have figured it out. [steps down off soap box]

My experiences with what you're calling the black screen of death. thread I want assurance that I'm not getting my 1st gen, 2011 APIM unit "repaired" and put back in. Obviously there is/was a design flaw with the first several revisions. I want to know that I'm getting a current "revised version" of the APIM where they've addressed all the issues that they've learned from all of us doing their beta testing. For those of you who have had the APIM replaced within the past 12-18 months, has your MFS been problem free ?? I'd really like to hear. I should have my Edge back monday or tuesday if it simply just works.

and any one asked why the hell we can't use the WiFi receiver built into the car to send direct from computer (& WiFi AP in the house) to the Edge sitting outside the window waiting for me ??? rhetorical question .. (because someone is not making money)

update: this last time the APIM went dead on me .. it lasted a week ! Ughh. So I took it by a dealer while it was dead and after explaining everything I've seen. All the tests I've done. Everything. The service writer sticks his USB reboot flash drive in and expected what .... idk. I had already told him that it was NOT being told to power up. Meaning its powered off. meaning that you're not going to get it to boot off your flash drive ... because ITS NOT POWERING ON !! Am I talking to myself here ??? Anyways .. Extended premium warranty means I get a rental (2015 Explorer Limited) and the APIM is covered by the extended Ford warranty. So when I bring it back in for the appointment.. wouldn't you know it, its working and has been since the night before. I called for a status update at the end of the first day and he says . "wouldn't you know it ... it won't fail every time we test it ...and there are no codes" to which I reply . So .. you're not going to "repair" the module... its a "replacement" so stop wasting time "testing" and looking for codes .. unplug, remove, replace, plugin, verify operation. Done. Uggh. 2nd item on my list was the stalling of the sun roof that we all know about. I was proudly told that "yes sir, we lubed the tracks and that is all better now". OMG, I certainly hope they just didn't lather up the rails with lube and call it a day. The issue is usually more than sticky rails. But .. I'm keeping up hope. If it is truly "fixed" I'll get the specifics from the mechanic who did the work and report back. 3rd item, airbag light comes on. #1 in post 13 above. I suspect (hope) that this will be resolved with the new APIM. They "had one in stock" that turned out to be the wrong one and they ended up ordering another one from the factory. Does any one know if this will assure my getting the more recent APIM revision. And is there such a thing .. version 123 was bad ... but revision 435 is totally redesigned and we've had zero failures ??? IDK.

I have a 2011 limited with 302A package and the factory tow. IIRC besides the class III hitch, there is a larger capacity radiator, higher CFM fans, higher output alternator (?), and towing stability control for the stability control system and wiring harness...

My 2011 is in for APIM replacement, and the sun roof stalling at that point. they've "lubed the rails" so when I pick it up .. I will review it with a critical eye. If they've eliminated the symptoms and not the problem I'll push for a real resolution. If they were truly successful on resolving the issue, I plan on getting the 411 on what they've done and will relay here.

This one - http://www.dealerrater.com/classifieds/2011-Ford-Edge-ad-2FMDK3KC7BBB50012 http://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin-decoder-results/ <- may have to copy and paste the VIN back in to get the info. http://researchmaniacs.com/VIN-Number-Lookup/WindowSticker/FordSticker.html?title=2FMDK3KC7BBB50012 <- this is always fun ... scroll down. http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/RecallsPage <- Oasis look-a-like Remember ... always seek knowledge from the oracle of google.

It is and I have. Since my last post, its happened a few more times and to quote a line from some movie (2001 ?) if we let it go 100% failure mode, it'll be easy to find the source. A few things that I've noticed. 1) the airbag light comes on a day or two before its going to happen. 2) when the GPS goes off line it'll usually not work when you turn off the car and power it back up. 3) when its "out to lunch" the main screen is simply not powering up or being told to do so. When you first enter the car started or not and it detects the keys presents, normally the two smaller screens and the larger main screen will all power up blank white. When its borked, the two small screens are on, but no signs of life from the large main one. 4) cycling its power whether by fuse, one of the two grey plugs to the fuse panel or battery, does not force it to come back. However, when it feels like it, one of these will "trigger" it back to life. But ONLY when it wants to. 5) When it does come back, most if not all settings are still in place except the ambient lighting. That goes back to 100% on turquoise. 6) when its dead, I can make the radio come back for about 10-30 seconds by cycling its power via the methods in #4 7) when its dead, I can still make climate changes (THANK GAUD) via the steering wheel and small right hand screen. Radio however is totally MIA. These last few times its gone dead .. its stayed dead for a day or two. Before it was always just a unscheduled "Scheduled Maintenance" reboot. I think I'm going to call defeat and start looking for a quality dealership to fix this. 58,250k miles and I did get the FMT we're cover it extension letter from Ford .. so I guess I have that to look forward to. I just wish I had a flow chart of that system. My 74 Toyota Landcruiser with ~650,000 miles on it is as simple as it gets.

Well .. remote started the Edge tonight and when I got in pressed the start button and started backing out of the garage .... as Sync was rebooting, again ! So now this has ruled out a bad battery, remote versus manual start. And I notice that when this happens the ambient lighting and the expanded help screens are reset again. So now .. its either faulty design, failing unit(s) or normal (?) crash with reset. 56,000 miles. Think its still covered ?

LS973800, thanks for the heads up. that is the kind of feed back i was hoping this comment would elicit. I think for what I've read and found .. the Hella dual tone dual horn kit will be my next purchase. 118db at ~7' when the relay is utilized.

update and my theory: Giving it a night to sleep on, the next morning when I started my Edge .. still no go. I sat in the garage pondering the logistics and cost of getting this fixed at whatever Ford dealership. Backed out of the garage and paused at the end of the driveway waiting for a car to pass and hoping to see the cold boot screen. Nothing. Drove to the end of my street and waited for another car and while I tried to come to grips with what had happened and started to head out of town. Then, about 4-5 minutes after I'd started my car .. and had been driving ... the cold boot screen appeared. Its back from the dead. How can this be ?? Electronics don't behave this way or shouldn't anyways. But this got me thinking .. how could this be and now I have more parts the mosaic that was forming. 1) I remote start my car 97-99% of the time. I just do. It gets its juices flowing before I ask it to work and I have remote start .. use it. 2) On the few occasions that the reboot has happened to me seemingly out of the blue (ford blue) it’s been when I've NOT auto started it ! How would or could this make a difference? What happens when you auto start that is so different from when you sit in the drivers seat and push the button? When you remote start your Edge for those of you who don’t have remote start or haven’t noticed what’s happening in your car, very few things actually power up. The computer that controls the engine. The fuel pump, the starter for a few seconds (very high amp draw from this) and a few other minor systems. Its not until you sit in the seat, press the brake pedal and push the start button that the all remaining sensor packages, computer systems, lighting, etc. actually power up and come online. When you “manually” start your Edge by sitting in the seat and pressing the button or turning the key, everything comes on nearly at once including that HIGH amp draw starter motor. Then a comment that the guy made the last time I had my oil changed and one I hadn't expected him to say. "Sir .. did you know your battery is bad? There is only about 11vdc on it at rest meaning that there is a dead cell. would like it replaced?” I declined the repair knowing that I could replace it anytime between now and fall and that I’d want to shop and do it myself. But, this is where I think it all ties together. On the few occasions where I've manually started by Edge with this marginal battery, at the point the starter kicks in, all the sensor packages, computers, center console electronics, etc are all wanting to power up as well. And the battery being “weak” to begin with I suspect that they've been freaking out due to the reduced available voltage and crashing/rebooting when this happens. Or in the case of the other night/morning .. simply wouldn’t come up at all. When I've remote started ... the battery (and alternator) have had a few minutes (60-90 seconds average) to recover so that when I actually press the start button and the balance of the systems are asked to come online, there is enough "wattage in the cottage" to keep them happy. I’m installing a 750CCA AGM yellow top today. Oh and I also ordered the Redline Quick lift struts for the hood and I’m looking for aftermarket horns if anyone has recommendations. Mine sound SOOOooo anemic ! (hmm, related to the battery issue???) another update to follow after a few weeks or so on the new battery.

Wednesday morning, due to on coming traffic, was unable to avoid a nasty pot hole and put a nice loop in my 20" aluminum rim. Really surprised I didn't blow out the sidewall. Just now, turned off the Edge to talk some people, started it backup, no center console. No reboot 30 seconds later. Pulled fuse 29 - no go. Pulled positive battery terminal - no go. So I tell my self ... self ! everything works until it doesn't. At which point you can say, WHAT THE HECK, IT WAS JUST WORKING A MINUTE AGO ?? !!. Not a good week for Tac.

BAM ,, upgrade ! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1035185-REG/sandisk_sdcz33_064g_b35_b35_cruzer_fit_64gb.html

sry for delayed response. Work ... I tried unemployment once. The hours were great but the pay sucked ! It appeared when I started the vehicle in the morning to go to work. No other symptoms. Then ... about a week or so later, it happen again .. and the button re-appeared. And if its any help, I (my edge that is) also suffers from the "ambient light reset" which has be talked about often. I've also noticed when that happens, I get the voice help screens re-appearing each time I use voice. Both of which I can reset (my ambient light config & disable the voice help screen) until the next time it happens.