Tacyon

2011 AWD Limited - ESP out to 125k miles (yea!) I was going to install a drain plug as that seemed to be the best fix from an engineering stand point. However, I got to thinking about how dealerships in general and Ford is no different, love to not pay for things if they can find a wiggle way out, I've opted to have the dealership do a preemptive "check and change" on the PTU and rear diff fluids versus me do my thang. I've asked for samples of both fluids as I want to put eyes on. If no issues with the lubrication is found then its ~$110.00 per part to R&R. $220 I'll gladly pay to keep the warranty (and PTU) intact and not have to crawl under my Edge and suck it out myself. The main "primary" reason for me taking it in was to address 1) Airbag warning light is on. 2) Remote start has started (pun needed) to not. It'll start and then 5-10 second later the engine will stop. Or it click once and never starts. In any case I can enter the vehicle and manually start it the normal way. Because these "primary" reasons are covered under my ESP, I get a rental for the duration. Guess what the rat bastards (jk) at Enterprise gave me to drive?? You got it ... a 2015 AWD Titanium Edge (base) !! Booya !! So now I get to test drive the truck I was kicking around purchasing in 2016. I'll post my impressions in a separate post later.

So .. please turn with me to page 18 in your books ... but seriously .. I didn't "forget". I just didn't feel a need to account for roughly 0.003 amps times "X" number of existing LEDs in a circuit built to handle far more than that. But for accuracy sake .. you're correct as well. "LEDs draw little current so I'm sure it's fine"

For today's class .. you're going to look at power equations. Please turn to page 17 in your books please. The current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W) divided by the voltage V in volts (V) We want to know "AMPS" as this is the killer of fuses and wiring if not fused. We know the power in "watts" and the voltage (~12VDC aka 12 volts direct current) and since most the fuses in automotive applications are in the 5-20 amp range, this calculation comes out to ~1.5 amps for a 18 watt load operating in a 12VDC circuit so we are fine. TL:DR - Yes. What he ^ said.

Hey jataylor11 -> "And no I will not discuss any further details as to how I do it." just a wild guess here but I'd say your [moral] compass is broken or missing. Situational ethics aside, be careful what you wish for. That Ford MFT might actually power up. Then you'll see why despite having it on my 2011 Edge Limited with the 302a package, I choose to have a Garmin 2455LMT next to the "A" pillar. The entire navigation package in the MFT is more of a frustration than any help. Remember the last time you were at the holiday inn express and watching cinemax at 1am. Yea ... that frustrating. Leave it alone and let garmin tell you where to go. Accurate, updates up to 4 times a year (included) I can input and find an address in under 30 seconds. AND .. it knows what a rural fire number address is. MFT says WTF

IIRC they're ultrasonic in operation, so anything with mass will set it off. they're triggered on my 2011 Edge when someone walks near it while I'm backing. Also .. when I back down the driveway to leave, if I'm close to the fence line (3-4 feet) it'll trigger on that as well.

Middle of last week my remote start that I use all the time started doing a thing where the car will remote start .. then turn all fairly quickly (within 15 seconds or so) I've reset the computer, no change. The time duration is not always the same. Sometimes its right away, sometimes its longer like 30-45 seconds. Anyone got any clues ? I'm calling the dealership on monday to get a number of maintenance items addressed so they'll get this on the list as well.

Postman showed up today with -> ATP -> https://www.rockauto....php?pk=2478306 ( activated charcoal) And I must say, of all the bone headed ways to hide or block ease of serviceability, this filter is NOT an example! Including opening the new box and parts baggie, getting at, removing, and comparing physical size, then reinstallation, close up and put crap back in the glove box. .. total time, ~5 minutes. BAM. See if you can guess which is the old one and which is the new one ? p.s. 73,500 miles on a 2011 that I purchased with ~9000 miles on her. So this is probably the 1st change out.

Thx for that link, yeah .. I'm well versed on the old school method of bleeding brakes. Been doing all my own [brake] work since the mid seventies. But now with all the modules, ABS, etc. I'd just feel better knowing that I was not skipping a mandatory process. From all that I've read, I should be okay with only opening the lines at the calipers and bleeding as normal when done.

So I've got a pair of new calipers that I've cleaned up and painted and I'm ready to install them. For all the years I've been doing this I've not owned a vehicle that has more technology and computer controlled systems as the Edge has. I was simply going to change them out as I have in the past but then I ran across an article that describes having to "connect the vehicle communication module (VCM) and scan tool into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash and carry out the chassis brake bleeding procedure". I saw where this article says "Bleeding the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) is required only when removing or installing the HCU, master cylinder or opening the lines to the HCU." and I just want to make sure that Ford didn't sneak in a process that excludes the end user from performing their own repairs. I should be good to perform normal bleed procedures at the calipers themselves as normal. Correct ?

I've done a LOT of work with video over several careers. Based on the pictures you just posted and the one on page 1, it appears to be a grounding problem. WHICH would explain why the dealer ship won't touch it until you pay $$. Often grounding issues are a PIA to locate and once you "touch" the cause you could fix it with no needed parts. (real fix or temp, hard to judge) Or you may spend (as the tech) X hours and never find it. At which point they'd ask you, the customer, what cap do you want on time spent (labor) to search. maybe ... just a guess based on pictures and nothing else.

note: I noticed on mine when I installed it (Scion XB unit) the center 24" or so is too close the curve of the bumper molding. In other words the inner curve or arc is shallower on the protector than the bumper causing the gap to not be uniform from the edges to the middle. I used a piece of metal forced into an arc that would correct the inner arc and then scored with a very shape knife until I finally made it thru the thick plastic of the protector. Worked nice, I then used several beads of black body trim RTV to secure. Been installed now for ~3 years

One of the best, easiest, cheapest upgrades you could do to your Ford Edge sound system is to replace the cheapie, paper coned, anemic speakers in both the front and back seat doors with something like Infinity 6829CF. fuller range, deeper, cleaner base. Its not the magic blue pill, but is noticable improvement.

if true about the filter being "life time" that would be interesting .. given how dirty the trans fluid looked. Also .. funny side comment ... (and I just kidding ya ... had to) I looked up the torque specs for the brake bracket and it actually said, "snug it up real good" True story !

Just had mine replaced ... used Safelite OEM brand with SoundScreen. The 3rd party stuff is identical to the factory OEM with all the same specs, but no "SafeLite" stamp. Watched them replace it onsite at my office and two of them were done with in 20-30 minutes. Without the proper tools, sealant, technique and experience, this is not a "shade tree" operation. ... about $400.00 total.

I say we disconnect all safety sensors - survival of the fittest ! jk

My .02 cents and vote would be to do the factory tow "package" as it more than just a place to connect your toys to. IIRC correctly, this includes better cooling, higher output alternator, and Tow Stability Control in the drive train's computer. Not 100% sure on the first two, but 100% on the stability control as I have the factory tow package on my 2011.

macbwt - couple of questions I have. 1) re the transmission flush. What of the trans filter ? Wouldn't you consider doing a trans flush without changing the filter 50% of what is needed or did I miss that part in the video? 2) (see pic) When tightening bolt 1, what keeps bolt 2 from spinning in the slide pin area ?

and one last post on the subject from an engineering standpoint now that I've read the entire threadnaught. Edgey Guy .. your post was (as should be given your exposure to the facts ) spot on. While I may not be Ford assembly tech ... I do know how they're put together and as I was reading everyone's plight and confusion on why some but not all .. your info was my exact thought. The sealant is between the seam and not visible. In some cases it'll be enough, some enough for a few soaks. And others are leak city. I know that after the fact (assembly) 3M makes a "weld thru sealant" meant to be used in the event of a panel getting replaced and spot welded. Most of the automotive industry (foreign and domestic) have been using sealants/adhesives for years and its a seasoned technology at this point. But as has been mentioned (again by you Edgey IIRC) New model, startup production runs, human's that don't know yet what to be specially mindful of. All this being said, doesn't help those who are suffering the "gamma test stage" Edgey, do you know from your "exposure" if those panels gets seal/glued, then spot welded in the seal/glue regions, then dipped and baked ? I could see that process making it fairly difficult to proactively predict failure until it became a widely experienced issue. Like we have.

Swell .. .the ONE thing that kept me from getting a sun roof for so long. I finally trusted someone to get it right (BAMR) and on my 2011 so far its been fine. Now to find out there is a possible problem with a 2015 on something that they've already had down pat. ...

As I'm reading this I'm thinking "never buy the first model year, proven once again." I've got a 2011 limited and was kicking around at upgrading to a 2016 Edge Tritanium as I now have direct access to "Program X" (I think its called) from work. Hopefully by the time I'm ready to pull the trigger they'll have figured out all the BS.

All from RockAuto for a 2011 Ford Edge Limited. They "should" all be the same but verify your specific model. ATP -> https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2478306 ( activated charcoal) ATP-> https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2478488&cc=1446671&jnid=502&jpid=2 ( non- charcoal) TYC -> https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1962988&cc=1446671&jnid=502&jpid=0 (non- charcoal) Motorcraft -> ( non- charcoal) FRAM Fresh Breeze -> https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1392139&cc=1446671&jnid=502&jpid=10 (uses "the natural deodorizing qualities of Arm & Hammer baking soda" - not "Febreze® as you might assume)

I don't think this small foam is going to really effect the thermal condition of the engine that much if at all. If you remove it and listen I think you realized why its there, sound dampening. The fuel injectors and other gear are quite loud making ticking noises that would surely cause service calls. Like hydraulic lifters when you're low on oil (wait, did I just date myself ?? ) back in the day.

I can tell you from first hand personal experience that this method will "work". You've however sealed (pun intended) that this tire will need to be replaced sooner than later and I wouldn't suggest a 2nd repair of any type on it. replace in pairs at minimum. What you've done (and had to in order to use the plug correctly) was when you "reamed" out the hole, you severed and pushed aside the steel belts further damaging them. The tire will no longer ever be 100% again. The rubber plug is coated in a self vulcanizing rubber so it will become part of the tire in short order (days). I wouldn't go running any prolonged 117 mph, (max speed) for hours with a fully loaded Edge on a hot summer day. But it'll get you by with normal driving habits till its time to replace a pair of tires at once. Side note ... due to the litigious nature of the public, most tire shops will no longer do things that were generally normal practice back in the day. They "opt" to make more money by selling you new tires than loose LOTS of money defending themselves in court.

This last weekend due to micro sleep at ~2:00am on my way from Chi-town to Ga. .... I took a 70 mph, cruse controlled trip into the center medium. No guard rails, bridge abutments, river openings, etc. The guard rails started about 5 minutes later. Scarry as sh*t ! Lane assist would have been a welcome technology addition. I've got I'm sure million miles or more under my belt over 45 years of driving so I don't tend to panic. You don't jam on the brakes, you don't yank the steering wheel back towards the road. Not sure a computer would know not to do these things but it might not have allowed me to get there in the first place. in the 15 seconds worth of ditch driving, my fast thought process was, I'm not where I'm suppose to be, why am I not slowing down? My foot is not on the gas. Nothing appears to be in my direction of travel but that won't last. Lets slow down and head towards the road." Pulled over and examined the drive train ... besides weeds and field grass, it looks ok. Could have been MUCH worse ! I know collision avoidance has saved me a few times while I was checking out the "driver" in the car next to me. but with this being said, there are times when it bitches at me because it doesn't know that the quickly approaching car in front of me won't be there by the time I get there. And in some cases, will even hit the brakes because its so upset over this fact. Point being, its not able to reason like a focused human and right now, doesn't have all the facts at hand. I am 100% sure that if there is active lane assist, with cruse control, that there will be drivers fully dozing (err .. sleeping)(me?) off. So when does the auto pilot say, "ummm, my human has checked out ...I need to pull over, put my flashers on and place myself in park ? we've got a ways to go. (check out the Tesla auto pilot config )

I have a set of front and backs out of my 2011 Edge Limited. But .. not trying to kill my own sale .. why wouldn't you just replace with after market ones .. they're WAY better built and sound better. Easiest, cheapest upgrade to the sound system you can do. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13476-good-frontrear-door-speakers/?do=findComment&comment=104844 let me know if you're dead set on getting a set of OEM's - I'll sell them to you.