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Hi Bobby. :D Like any problem with any vehicle, there are a small percentage of 2007 and up vehicles which had this "leaking PTU" problem. Not nearly as many as some would make it seem. And the problem has been corrected on newer (2009-2010) vehicles. Do a small percentage still have problems, of course, like any defect in any vehicle. As usual, you need to take any information from the Internet with a grain of salt (and that includes any information I may also give). You need not worry about a leaking PTU anymore than you would worry about a leaking sunroof, a power window motor going bad, etc etc. Will defects occur and problems happen? Possibly, of course. But no more likely than in any other vehicle. Hope this information helps. Good luck.

Hi Rob. :D Cleaning the wheels (and the rest of the car) is actually addressed in the Owners Manual. Essentially, you clean and protect them the same way you do your cars paint finish. Use regular car shampoo/liquid soap and water (the same that you use for your paint) to clean them. Then use a good automotive wax to give them a good shine and protection. I use "Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Car Wash Shampoo" to clean them and "Meguiar's Cleaner Wax" to protect. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Bobby. :D Need to state upfront that I am not trying to discourage you from doing what you like, just providing information. So here goes: Concerning larger wheels and handling: In the June 2009 Motor Trend, there was a comparison test done between the Ford Edge Sport, Toyota Venza and Nissan Murano. There was also a very interesting and relevant sidebar article concerning wheel weight and it's effect on handling. Here is the text and a graph from that sidebar article: _______________________________________________________________________ UNSPRUNG HEROES Sure, Dubs look cool...but weight Unsprung weight, or parts of the car the suspension is not supporting -- e.g., wheels and tires -- is the enemy of high performance. The heavier the wheel/tire combination, the less responsive it is to steering inputs and the less adept it is at absorbing bumps. If you've ever wondered why elite sports cars, sport sedans, and race cars feature the lightest wheels possible, this is the reason. But just because crossovers aren't intended to spend all day hot-lapping at the racetrack doesn't mean they should be burdened with huge and heavy rolling stock, even if it makes them look cooler than a penguin wearing Oakleys. As luck would have it, our three crossovers came with big and even bigger wheels -- 18-, 20-, and 22-inch-diameters -- allowing us to examine the weight penalty as size increases. Vewhicle - Wheel Size, Type Tire Size - Wheel Weight - Tire Weight - Total Unsprung weight/each corner Murano - 7.5 x 18 in, cast alum - 235/65 - 24 lb - 33 lb - 57 lb Venza - 7.5 x 20 in, cast alum - 245/50 - 33 lb - 34 lb - 67 lb Edge - 9.0 x 22 in, forged alum - 265/40 - 41 lb - 35 lb - 76 lb _____________________________________________________________________ (Sorry about the information being crowded up like this. I have tried editing the information to spread it out several times now, but it remains in the same crowded format) As you can see (and if you read the entire Motor Trend comparison test), the larger diameter wheels of the Edge severely hurt it's ride, handling and acceleration. Those 22" wheels (I know you are only thinking of upgrading to the 20's) were the major cause behind it being ranked third of the three vehicles. With smaller wheels, it would certainly have finished in a better position. So, taking known information and the above test information into account, here is a short breakdown of the Advantages/Disadvantages of larger diameter 18" vs. 20" wheels: Advantages 1 - More attractive look, if you like the look of the larger wheels (this is really the sole advantage, as larger wheels are really strictly a styling thing) Disadvantages 1 - Higher cost, both for the tires and for the wheels. 2 - Slightly rougher/harsher ride due to the shorter sidewalls. 3 - Slightly slower acceleration, due to the slightly heavier wheels and the "Laws of Physics". 4 - Slightly lower MPG figures, due to the slightly heavier wheels and the "Laws of Physics". 5 - Slightly worse handling due to the slightly heavier wheel/tire combo ("unsprung weight") and the "Laws of Physics". Of course, there are those who will disagree, but the facts are easily verifiable with some research, as in the Motor Trend article (and the "Laws of Physics"). Like most things in life, larger wheels are a compromise. You get the "improved look" at a small expense in other areas (ride, handling, MPG's and acceleration). And again, I am not trying to discourage you from getting the larger wheels. Like you, I would also upgrade to the 20's if I were in the market tomorrow for a new Edge. But I would also know that it would be strictly for the style factor, as everything else is pretty much a disadvantage. I am simply providing accurate information for you to make an informed decision. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ile Edge. :D Aftermarket rustproofing treatments are not recommended and not necessary on modern cars. In most cases they will do more harm then good, blocking drain holes and trapping moisture in places that would otherwise drain properly. There are also a lot of hoops you need to jump through to keep the aftermarket "Rustproofing Warranty" in effect (i.e. yearly inspections or re-treatments), that most people eventually forget to do and wind up voiding the aftermarket Warranty. Of course opinions will vary, but if you ask any automotive expert (who is not trying to sell you a treatment themselves) and they will tell you to save your money. Hope this information helps. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Goldie. :D I believe that the problem here is we need to understand that there are very few things that can "Void a Warranty". But a lot of things that can lead to "denial of a Warranty claim". A difference in semantics, but a very large difference. From the Owners Manual (copied and pasted with the pertinent section highlighted in red): Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). An oil with this trademark symbol conforms to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), comprised of U.S. and Japanese automobile manufacturers. To protect your engine’s warranty use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an equivalent SAE 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine. Do not use supplemental engine oil additives, cleaners or other engine treatments. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage that is not covered by Ford warranty. Change your engine oil and filter according to the appropriate schedule listed in scheduled maintenance information. Ford production and aftermarket (Motorcraft) oil filters are designed for added engine protection and long life. If a replacement oil filter is used that does not meet Ford material and design specifications, start-up engine noises or knock may be experienced. It is recommended you use the appropriate Motorcraft oil filter (or another brand meeting Ford specifications) for your engine application. As you can see, it specifically states "To protect your engine’s warranty use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an equivalent SAE 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine". That is all it needs to say. Same case with the "oil additives". Using them does not "void the Warranty", but "could lead to engine damage that is not covered by Ford warranty". The Owners Manual will rarely to never specifically state that not following any particular "Recommended " maintenance will "Void your Warranty". However, not following maintenance recommendations can lead to denial of a Warranty claim. It is as simple as that. For example, nowhere in the Owners Manual does it state, "If you do not change your oil for 20,000 miles at a time, it will 'Void your Warranty'." However, we all know that if you do not change your oil for 20,000 miles at a time and have major engine trouble due (or even vaguely linked) to oil related causes, it is very likely that your Warranty Claim will be denied. Filthy oil and no proof of oil changes = Denial of an engine oil related Warranty Claim. Not "voiding the Warranty", but "denial of the Warranty claim". A big difference between the two terms. Bottom line is that not following recommended maintenance can lead to denial of a Warranty claim (which is much different than "Voiding a Warranty"). And Ford recommends 5W-20 (with particular SAE specs). Therefore using a different spec/weight oil "may" lead to denial of a Warranty claim (again, different than a "Voided Warranty"). Granted I will agree that this will rarely happen, as oil related failures are rare (other than due to neglecting the oil). And oil spec/weight related failures would be even rarer (i.e using 5W-30 would not likely ever cause a problem in the real world). But it is possible and you open yourself up to the possibility if you use it. So the safest thing to do to protect coverage on oil/engine related Warranty claims is to perform regular oil/filter changes as per the Maintenance Schedule, and use the recommended oil (5W-20). Everyone is free to do otherwise (it's a free country), but we do open ourselves up to possible Warranty problems. Hope this clears up any confusion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pbc. :D I would advise removing the antenna if you are not using a completely "touchless" car wash. Takes 10 seconds and may keep you from kicking yourself later. Even that blower roller could cause a problem. Just my opinion (and what I do on cars with an exterior antenna). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Clayton. :D Have not heard of any ready made parts for that. An educated guess? Most likely would need to have something custom fabricated. Perhaps a shop that specializes in modifying cars for people with physical disabilities? Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Cindy. :D I think I may have confused you there. Did you think I was calling you "#6" (by the post # of your first reply)? That is not what I was doing. I was asking "legallyyours" what his answer was to tip #6 in the set of 8 tips I listed in my first reply. That tip (#6) asked "Do you normally drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO", "Defrost' or "AC"? If you do, it is the equivalent of driving with your Air Conditioning on all of the time. If possible, just use the vent settings with the fan." I would never be so rude as to call you or anyone else by their post number. Hope that clears up any confusion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fmitchum. :D Do you have an ESP (Extended Service Plan)? If not, then as akirby stated, no. If you do not have an ESP, the only way it will be covered is if the Dealership decides to take the bullet on their own. Never hurts to ask, but the answer will likely be no. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fmitchum. :D The only immediate attempt at a solution I can think of is: Have you tried it with the tire deflated? If the load floor will lay flat with the tire deflated, you can always carry a can (or two) of compressed air or a plug in air compressor to inflate the tire, if needed. However, it may still be too wide even with the tire deflated. Maybe someone else will have better idea. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi legally yours. :D You are welcome. I was just curious: What about #6? Do you regularly drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO', "AC" or "Defrost"? Having the A/C system engaged on a continuous basis will create a significant parasitic MPG loss. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi legallyyours. :D If you do a "Search" for "fuel mileage", you will find a lot of threads dealing with your question. Just to get you started, here is a copy and paste from a previous answer to a similar question as yours (not all answers apply, since yours is a used Edge). In your case, pay more attention to #'s 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8: There are so many reasons why mileage varies, that it is hard to list them all. Here are just a few (keep in mind that you can personally do something about 6-7 and 8): 1 - One month is really too soon to be concerned about fuel mileage. How many times have you filled up? 900 miles probably means only about 4 fillups, tops. 2 - Your mileage will improve as your Edge breaks in. This can take up to 5,000 miles to see the full benefit to your mileage. 3 - You cannot compare your "city/highway" driving to that of others. Or for that matter, compare your MPG's to that of others. Let's just say that Internet mileage estimates are a funny thing. Let's also say that I have seen people claim they are getting 19-20 "city" MPG. It is safe to say that what they are calling "City" driving does not qualify for the EPA definition of city driving. People sometimes have a tendency to innocently exaggerate. People also sometimes have a "faulty calculator". Also, it's the Internet so let's face it, some people just make it up as they go along. 4 - EPA figures are calculated with 100% gasoline. If you are using a 10% ethanol fuel (check the pumps when you fill-up), your mileage will drop. Ethanol and oxygenated fuels return lower MPG's. 5 - If you are in an area where the temperatures are very warm, that will adversely affect your MPG. Hot ambient temps are not conducive to good fuel mileage. 6 - Do you normally drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO", "Defrost' or "AC"? If you do, it is the equivalent of driving with your Air Conditioning on all of the time. If possible, just use the vent settings with the fan. 7 - Have you checked your tire pressure lately? If you have not, you should. Low tire pressure will decrease fuel mileage. If you do not already have one, purchase a good tire pressure gauge and inflate your tires to the cold pressure recommendation for your vehicle (about 34-35 PSI I believe) if not a pound or two higher. The Ford recommended pressure is on a sticker on the drivers side door jamb. EDITED: Do not rely on the TPMS system (Tire Pressure Monitor System) to monitor your tire pressures for you. It is not much more than a glorified "idiot light". By the time the TPMS warning light illuminates, your tire pressure is already dangerously low. 8 - Alter your driving style to maximize MPG. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Coast to stop signs and lights. Don't use the gas pedal/brake pedal as on-off buttons (I am not implying that you do, just making recommendations). These are just a few of the many reasons why MPG will vary from person to person and vehicle to vehicle. If you really think there is a problem, then your best bet is to take it to the Dealer and have them check it. Lots of other information if you do a search for "fuel mileage". Concerning "different air filters". wile opinions will vary, here is mine: Automakers (including Ford) spend millions of dollars (and more) a year to try and engineer/improve fuel mileage by tenths of a mile per gallon. If achieving higher fuel mileage was as simple as installing another type of air filter in the vehicle, they would do it themselves. Save your money and do not fall for false promises. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pbc. :D The "Normal Service" Oil Change Interval is every 6 months/7,500 miles whichever comes first (or equivalent metric distance conversion). The "Severe Duty" Oil Change Interval is every 6 months/5,000 miles (see your Maintenance Schedule Guide for Sever Service rules). This is my opinion: I follow the Ford "Normal Service" recommnedation. Ford pays its Powertrain Engineers good money to design, manufacturer and test their engines. With the advances in modern engine and oil/lubrication technologies, 3,000 mile soil changes are no longer necessary. So it is perfectly safe to follow Ford Oil Change Interval recommendations. In reality, considering the average miles driven per year is approximately 12,000 miles, most of us will be the changing oil by following the time interval (every 6 months) anyway. I am an example of this. While I "technically" follow the Normal Service, 6 month/7,500 miles interval, I only put about 3,500-4,000 miles per 6 months. However, if I did accrue the necessary mileage per 6 months/a year, I would change at 7,500 miles. Of course, others will have their own opinions. In the end it will all come down to personal preference, so do what gives you the most peace of mind. You can't go wrong with either following Ford's recommendation, or changing sooner if you wish. As long as you don't change later. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tmagoo. :D Forgive me for copying and pasting my reply, but I just finished answering a very similar question in the "Ford Edge Sport" sub forum (the other forum member was asking about his wife's new Edge Sport). So, to save myself some typing: As with most vehicles, the type of tire is more important than wheel diameter when determining how well your vehicle runs in the snow. In fact, even wheel/tire width is more important than diameter. The wider a tire, the more it will have a tendency to "float" on the snow (think snow shoes) instead of sinking/biting into the snow. Floating on the snow is not good for snow traction. Another important factor: Did your wife purchase an AWD or FWD Edge? She will be able to get away with some things in an AWD Edge that a FWD Edge might not handle. If "The Tire Rack" website is correct, your Edge Sport is equipped with the 265/40-22 Pirelli Scorpion Zero Asimmetrrico M+S tires. It is rated by Pirelli as an all-season high to ultra-high performance tire. It is a relatively wide tire and does not have a particularly aggressively siped tread for heavy snow use. It is what it is: An all-season highway tire. If you live in a heavy snow area, then a set of slightly narrower wheels with narrower (think SEL or Limited wheel tire sizes) dedicated snow tires will get you around better in heavy snows. But there are just so many other variables that we do not have the information to. Do you live and do most of your driving in a metropolitan area where the roads are plowed, or do you live out in the sticks where getting stuck could mean possible injury or death? Do you have a job that includes having to get to work no matter what the weather, or can you stay home when it snows, etc. etc.? In the end, it comes down to a matter or personal need, personal preference and cost. Maybe wait until your wife has a chance to drive the Edge in the first heavy snow, then make a decision as to whether you want to spend the money? I would also recommend checking websites like LINK: The Tire Rack and LINK: Discount Tire for helpful information. You can also call them for help. Hope something here helps. Good luck. :D

Hi J. :D As with most vehicles, the type of tire is more important than wheel diameter when determining how well your vehicle runs in the snow. In fact, even wheel/tire width is more important than diameter. The wider a tire, the more it will have a tendency to "float" on the snow (think snow shoes) instead of sinking/biting into the snow. Floating on the snow is not good for snow traction. Another important factor: Did your wife purchase an AWD or FWD Edge? She will be able to get away with some things in an AWD Edge that a FWD Edge might not handle. If "The Tire Rack" website is correct, your Edge Sport is equipped with the 265/40-22 Pirelli Scorpion Zero Asimmetrrico M+S tires. It is rated by Pirelli as an all-season high to ultra-high performance tire. It is a relatively wide tire and does not have a particularly aggressively siped tread for heavy snow use. It is what it is: An all-season highway tire. If you live in a heavy snow area, then a set of slightly narrower wheels with narrower (think SEL or Limited wheel tire sizes) dedicated snow tires will get you around better in heavy snows. But there are just so many other variables that we do not have the information to. Do you live and do most of your driving in a metropolitan area where the roads are plowed, or do you live out in the sticks where getting stuck could mean possible injury or death? Do you have a job that includes having to get to work no matter what the weather, or can you stay home when it snows, etc. etc.? In the end, it comes down to a matter or personal need, personal preference and cost. Maybe wait until your wife has a chance to drive the Edge in the first heavy snow, then make a decision as to whether you want to spend the money? I would also recommend checking websites like LINK: The Tire Rack and LINK: Discount Tire for helpful information. You can also call them for help. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Not sure if there may be some confusion or not but according to the 2009 Edge Owners Manual, the doors should be able to be locked while the key is in the ignition, as long as all of the doors and tailgate are closed. Here is a copy and paste from the Manual (most important passage highlighted in red): Smart locks This feature helps to prevent you from locking yourself out of the vehicle if your key is still in the ignition. When you open one of the front doors or the liftgate and you lock the vehicle with the power door lock control (on the driver or passenger door trim panel), all the doors will lock, then all doors will automatically unlock reminding you that your key is still in the ignition. The vehicle can still be locked, with the key in the ignition, by locking the driver’s door with a key, using the lock control on the remote entry transmitter portion of your Integrated Keyhead Transmitter, or locking the vehicle with the keyless entry keypad (if equipped). If both front doors and the liftgate are closed, the vehicle can be locked from any method, regardless of whether the key is in the ignition or not. Autolock feature The autolock feature will lock all the doors when: • all the doors are closed, • the ignition is in the on position, • you shift into any gear putting the vehicle in motion, and • the vehicle attains a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h). The autolock feature repeats when: • any door is opened then closed while the ignition is in the on position and the vehicle speed is 9 mph (15 km/h) or lower, and • the vehicle then attains a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h). According to the Manual, the Edge power locks work the same way as my 2007 MKZ (MKZ, not MKX). I can lock the doors using the power door lock button with the keys in the ignition and the doors closed. However, if I have the drivers door open and hit the power door lock with the keys in the ignition, the doors will immediately unlock. Yesterday I checked my sisters 2008 Edge, and my neighbors 2009 Edge. Both work as the Owners Manual states (and as my MKZ does). If the keys are in the ignition and all doors closed, I could lock the doors with the power door lock button. Of course, it is always possible that the system was changed (JOB #2?) for 2009 after the Manual was printed. However, the locking instructions are still exactly the same in the 2010 Edge Owners Manual and this operation is the same on Ford and Lincoln-Mercury vehicles for some time now. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D In my opinion, the easiest way to solve this would be for blumi (the OP) to obtain a 2007 Edge brochure and compare the wheels he has to the standard and optional wheels that are shown in the brochure. That will tell him whether they are (or are not) Edge wheels. Or he can go to a Ford Dealer and have them cross reference the part numbers from his wheels with the actual 2007 Ford Edge parts catalog. All the rest of this is speculation. For example: The wheels you pictured are more than a fuzz different. They have 7 (or 14 if you count it that way) spokes, as opposed to the 6 (or 12) in the OP's picture. Which leads me to why I usually stay out of these types of questions. Again, for example: The problem is, wheel styles change ever so slightly from year to year. It is one of the pieces that automakers can update at minimal cost. So now we have all different pictures of different wheels being posted from god knows what year and various model vehicles. His picture is of a 2007 Edge. Yours seems to be of a 2008 (according to the jpeg file name). Wheel styles change, so all the pictures definitely prove at this point is that the wheel styles between 2007 and 2008 likely changed. Again, this is very common. So the OP's pictured wheels could be a 2007 Edge wheel and your picture of a 2008. The pictures tell us nothing that helps solve the mystery. In the end, we are still in the same place. In addition, we also have a picture supposedly of a Mercury Mountaineer wheel, but we do not know what model year. So all this definitively proves (so far) is that Ford and Mercury possibly used similarly (or identically) styled wheels on different vehicles. Again, not completely uncommon. Just to make my point of view (my educated opinion) clear, I think the OP's original question has been answered: They are a Ford factory wheel, whether optional or not. And they are not aftermarket. And since most people never switch wheels on their cars, it is most likely a 2007 Edge factory wheel, whether standard or optional. Of course, this is just speculation too, so I could be mistaken. So with all due respect, I am retiring from this one, as it can only be argued in circles and I feel it is basically unsolvable by anyone other than the OP, if it is important enough for him to research. Either obtain the 2007 brochure and compare, or go to the Dealer and have them check/cross reference the part numbers. Igcitng, I hope you understand that this has nothing to do with you (or anyone else who has posted here), I just don't want to try and solve what is likely an unsolvable question (at least by us over the Internet). If someone else has a better (or the definitive) answer, I hope they can jump in and help the OP. Good luck igcitng. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng, old buddy, old pal! :D Not that this will settle anything, but here is my educated guess from the pictures: Looks like the same wheel (or at least the same style of wheel) with a different center "cap". And even if the "center cap" is not removable, it seems to be the same style wheel, just manufactured with a different center logo. Of course, we can't tell if the specs (offset, etc.) are exactly the same from a picture. So if that is correct, then almost everybody is right, to some extent. Next: Just sort of figured that the OP's question had been answered. Thew wheels on his Edge seem to be the Factory optional wheel which is available on the Edge, and it is not an aftermarket wheel. As I said, this won't stop the debate, but it is my opinion from the pictures. And just as an FYI: Not all Ford/Lincoln-Mercury "chrome clad wheels" are the chromed plastic wheel cover type. The "chrome clad wheels" on my 2007 MKZ are not the glued on plastic cover type. But the optional "chrome clad wheels" on the 2010 MKZ are. So while it seems that the Edge "chrome clads" are the chromed plastic cover type, there is some variation in what exactly constitutes "chrome clad". And somewhere in the next few replies, you will most likely see why I had avoided this debate. :shades: Good luck igcitng! :beerchug:

Hi beachparty. :D While almost anything can be done with enough money, know-how and time, it is doubtful that this could be reasonably accomplished. First problem, it is unlikely that there is enough room to tuck a spare tire (along with the necessary carrier and other hardware) under the back end of an Edge. Since the Edge was not designed with an under-car spare in mind, there will be too many under-vehicle components in the way and not enough room. Second problem, designing a carrier and the necessary hardware to raise, store, lower etc., a spare tire. Not saying it is impossible, just much more work than most people will be willing to take on for the limited benefit. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi escoff. :D Pxb006 is correct. And since the steering wheel is shaking, it is likely a problem with front wheel balancing or another front end component. This is covered under your New Car Warranty, so make a service appointment and bring your Edge in for diagnosis and repair. When you do, ask that a Service Tech be sent on a short drive with you to allow you to demonstrate the problem. Ensure that the Tech states that he definitely feels the shaking. In this way, you can avoid the dreaded "Could not replicate/duplicate the customers concern" when you pick it up. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gpf. :D In order of recommendation (my opinion only): Take it in for service and have it diagnosed and repaired under Warranty (if you are still within the 36,000 mile limit). If you can not or do not want to take it to the Dealer for service, then check the tail light fuse/fuses (refer to your Owners Manual for the Fuse diagrams) and check the bulbs to see if they are burned out. Keep in mind that even if it is a single bulb, the tail light filament is separate from the brake light filament, so your brake lights can still work while your tail lights don't. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ebaker. :D While I do not want to say that it is impossible, it is highly unlikely. The only way to tell would be to actively check your vehicle to see if it has any 2010 feature that was not included on the earlier 2009's. But again, highly unlikely. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi abusali. :D Please save your money. It is junk. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Alan. :D No, I have not. However, if it is affecting your driving or bothers you, point it out next time you have your Edge in for service and ask that it be replaced under Warranty. Or if it is not a big enough concern to you, leave it be. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi KyEdge. :D My educated guess? I don't think so. Here is why I believe the answer is no: Earlier Fords had an optional 10CD changer located in the trunk. For example, my 2001 Mercury Cougar was available with the option. I only ordered the Single CD payer in the dash, but I could add the multi-CD changer later, and there were several aftermarket possibilities. Trunk located multi-CD changers are no longer an option on the Ford sound systems. It is either a single in-dash CD player, or a 6 CD in-dash payer. No in-trunk CD changer options available on the Edge or other Ford passenger vehicles. So I therefore doubt that the connections are there, or available. Again, this is just my educated guess and I could be mistaken. And like anything else, if enough money or time is thrown at a problem, it can usually be overcome. But I do not believe it will be as easily accomplished as it was on our older vehicles. Good luck. :beerchug: