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Remote start = gooooood Good luck with the parts replacement and hope you don't find any issues with the fuel tank.

Feel for ya, hope Ford steps up soon!

Something to divulge there, mac, or will you have to kill us first?

I have been told that shipping blocks are no longer used in the springs while transporting modern vehicles, so that is probably not the issue. Since you have 18" wheels, that's not really a factor either. No reason why the springs/shocks would be locked in place either, except during transport. When you test-drove it, was it stiff back then? How much of a load have you tried in the cargo area?

You can't renew the coverage/restart the coverage every 45 days? Technology wise, I am sure the insurance co could do it, not sure policy wise.

Taking tint to the other extreme, like it

The only reason not to get the 2.7EB would be a "lack" of consumer history. Otherwise, it should deliver better mileage than the 3.5 when idling simply because ... newer better tech/smaller engine. Turbos only come into play when you step on the throttle, Ford uses small turbos to eliminate lag.

Would be interesting to find out the current 3.5EB TT's spool up time. Due to the smallish turbos, drivers have reported NO lag time.

So definitely some chemical reaction, like mac suggested. You could mask off an area and put a drop of acid in the area to test, but IDK. What is normally involved: http://www.flitzpolish.com/Heavily_Oxidized_Aluminum_s/28.htm Or try a kit like this: http://classictrimcoat.com/oxidized-aluminum.html http://www.everbritecoatings.com/aluminum.htm

Hard to say without knowing if the cause is internal or external. How does the cover look? Any discoloration on it?

Very true! From all reports, the FWD is a very capable performer.

Well, if they can have a replacement vent for the PTU that extends into the engine bay (power steering fluid reservoir area, I believe), then why not?

I think you should have a talk with the insurance company again and let them know exactly what's going on. Usually an insurance company will have better advice/more pull with "the other party", and may cover your rental under your existing policy due to the extenuating circumstances. What year Edge do you have BTW?

Sounds like the alarm system is drawing too much power (may not be properly installed), the battery cables were not properly tightened, or the battery was already on its' last legs. If the cables are tight on the battery posts and show no movement, I'd have the battery checked especially if it has never been changed. Ideally it will be A] 12.6V or higher with no key in ignition/no doors open/etc. and B] 13.8-14.4V when engine is running, no accessories/lighting on. If it is outside the range in B, it could be the alternator, but that has seldom been a problem on the Edge.

Egad! I can understand your frustration! I think the most recent TSB is 14-0057, updated from 12-8-12 (?). On the Mustang, the replacement part looks like this: The replacement part number is DB5Z-4022-A. http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/93867/Venting-your-frustrations Some 2011 Mariner, Milan, 2011-2013 Taurus, Explorer, Edge. MKK, MKS, 2011-2012 Fusion, MKZ, 2011-2012 Flex, MKT, 2013 Flex and MKT vehicles equipped with a 3.5L GTDI engine may exhibit an occasional fluid leak coming from the rear differential vent cap in temperatures below 32 degrees F under certain conditions. Inspect the rear drive unit for oil leaking from the vent cap located on the rear cover. If only a slight residue is found around the cap, this is normal. Remove and discard the vent from the rear drive unit cover. Install a new vent and clean off any remaining residue. The P/N for the new vent is DB5Z-4022-A.

It does look very oxidized. Does it come off with metal polish (aluminum polish)? Too much heat or a loose tube?

This is gonna be SO cool!

Those are MSRP? And PCV is done, right? Drive/Serpentine Belt BT4Z-8620-A: $18 Air Conditioning Belt 7T4Z-8620-A: $14 (kit is $4 extra BT4Z-8620-B ) Tensioner BT4Z-6B209-B: $59 http://www.levittownfordsupercenter.com

Come back safely and update us w your findings!

I don't know specifics on the Edge, but for the same amount of work, I'd replace the complete tensioner. All new parts rather than a mix of old & new, should last just as long as the current set or longer. Item Part Number Description 1 8620 Accessory drive belt 2 W503278 Accessory drive belt tensioner bolt (3 required) 3 6B209 Accessory drive belt tensioner 4 6C301 Power steering pump drive belt Since you have the belt off anyway, might as well replace the power steering belt too, if you have access to the "special tools" for it. I think others on the forum have done it without the special tools tho, IIRC.

Is that really a cigarette lighter outlet, or a power point? Don't know what they spec it for the in the Middle East, I think omar302 will know for sure though. In the U.S., I believe it is Fuse 17, 64, 65, and 66 (all 20 A) - Cigar Lighter/Power Point in the underhood fusebox. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/09mkxog1e.pdf Page 233

I know, right? Daunting thought.

Sure it does. "Ford Artisans at Work", after all, they are "MotorCRAFT" I think getting the supply lined up with costs is delaying the whole deal. I mean, having a Corolla as a rental???

No, just the opposite; so looking at it as if you were seated in the cabin. PTU is on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Welcome to the community, congrats on your '08 SEL! Pics? If you are looking to mod just for mpg, it will be hard to recover the investment in short order, as you are looking at a minimum of $400 or so for a competent tuning device/tuner/tune. Say you are getting 20 mpg now, and the tune increases to 22 mpg. Instead of spending (12,000 mi/year, $3/gal) $1,800 in fuel, you will be spending about $1,637, saving you $163 yearly. So your payback period is approximately 2.5 years. If the cost of fuel is less (say $2/gal like I am paying right now), it becomes 3.5 years. Now, if you are looking for better shifting, the tune is definitely worth it. You are better served with: Changing air filter/oil/oil filter regularly. 5W20 part or full synthetic motor oil with the Motorcraft filter will do a fine job. Depending on mileage, change the spark plugs/PCV valve. Run a tankful or two with a quality Fuel Injection cleaner (BG or Techron) to clean out the injectors. Wheel alignment Tire pressures checked regularly, as colder weather can cause a drop of 10% or more Look at the throttle body plate make sure it's not sticking or gunky, clean if so Depending on mileage, drain/fill transmission fluid (no flushing) Recommend PTU fluid drain/fill if AWD Air filters/intakes: I wouldn't definitively say use other brands for any performance gains. Sound, definitely. Some folks have gotten their K&N and GreenFilter upgrades to work for them. An AEM DryFlow definitely makes the Edge sound more aggressive in-cabin. If you can, get the OEM Ford air filter, which I hear is a bit better than the Motorcraft replacement. Headlamps: Probably old bulbs in the Edge. Put in fresh ones, or replace them with LED 20/40 watt equivalents. Very easy. The only "difficult" ones are the fog lights, but a little patience will help. If the headlamp housing is pitted, consider having them polished for better clarity. But just as important, make sure the headlamps are aimed properly, often a reason for poor lighting/visibility. You can do it yourself following instructions in the owner's manual. Vent Visors: I have the inchannel Weathertech ones. Takes a bit of angling to get them in there. They look almost flush against the vehicle and work fine. I do always have a bit of trepidation when the window first comes up against them whether they will mate perfectly. Also, you will need to clean sand/grit regularly, as it does get caught with inchannel visors. Floor Mats: Very happy with my all-weather Weathertechs, only problem is with logos coming off. Others are using Husky liners with good success. HTH.