TheWizard

Agreed. What is wrong with the courtesy wipe? At any speed less than highway speed, the washer nozzles spray above the wiper reach (they're designed that way so that they cover the wiper swept area even at highway speeds). That leaves some washer fluid to run down after the wipers stop which the extra courtesy wipe catches. So I can't fathom how that could become such an annoyance to the OP. But perhaps I've mellowed as I've gotten older.

Other than reducing the amount of current flow, no not really... they will get about as hot as the incandescent bulb they are compensating for. However, there are ways to mitigate that heat: - Make sure the resistors you installed are the automotive type encased in a heat sink rather than using plain resistors like you would get from Radio Shack. - Try to locate them so that they get as much airflow as possible. That may involve adding wire to both leads so that you can move them to a more remote mounting location. - When you relocate them, try to find a metal surface rather than a plastic one so that the heat won't be damaging. - Use thicker insulating 2-sided tape for mounting. Better yet, get some of that waffle board that they use for yard signs and put it between sections of 2-sided tape to provide some separation. The hollow areas in the waffle board will act as a heat sink under the resistor. - You could leave the resistors unmounted so that they just hang in a way that keeps them away from other wires and plastic pieces. Of those options, the best is to use resistors in heat sinks and extend the leads so that you can mount them to a metal surface. But I have used the other options in various vehicles depending on the situation and how much space was available.

Not without some serious rewiring. Switchback LEDs are designed to replace standard incandescent bulbs that have dual filaments (like 3157) with sets of different colored LEDs. The original bulbs had a dim filament for the parking/running lights and a separate bright filament for the turn signals (and DRLs if configured). They are two completely separate circuits except for sharing a common ground. The switchbacks provide a white LED circuit for the dim parking/running light circuit and an amber LED circuit for the bright turn signal and DRL circuit. They don't do anything to determine which set to light - if power is applied to the parking light circuit they light white and if power is applied to the turn signal circuit (whether by turn signals or by DRL) they light amber.

Maybe not. Lots of times I've seen people join a forum just to complain about something that went wrong with their vehicle. In my case, I liked the '13 Edge initially but after about 18 months of ownership I got to the point where I just didn't want it anymore. My wife's opinion was even stronger - by the time we got rid of it, she absolutely hated it. Much of that was due to a variety of issues that weren't quite enough for lemon law replacement but there were things we grew to dislike in the design as well.

I'm pretty sure you'd find that the Dorman (aftermarket) tool is the same as the Ford tool except for being $8 cheaper. All power sockets are the same diameter because they have to fit standard plugs so the tool to remove them would have to fit the same way. I even found that the socket included in the kit from Amazon was the same as the Ford original I pulled from my dash despite being listed for GM vehicles.

That's true for the Edge because the power point fuses are in the fuse box under the hood. On my Mustang the fuse is in the interior fuse box behind the right kick panel which is difficult for an old guy like me to access.

I just got that tool from Amazon for my Mustang. It works but you still have to pull pretty hard to get the socket to come out. That was surprising because I was under the impression you would use the tool to turn the socket and that it would then pull out easily (like a twist-lock setup). But you actually just use the tool to hook into the slots in the sides of the socket and then give it a good yank to pull it straight out. Make sure you disconnect the battery because the tool is metal and you could accidentally push it far enough into the socket to contact the positive connection at the bottom and short it out.

I have a Kia Sorento with the UVO system (Uconnect is the Chrysler product), a Mustang with SYNC, and I used to have an Edge with MFT. The UVO system is head and shoulders better than MFT although it is still lacking in some ways. In fact, MFT is one of the several reasons for ditching the Edge and getting the Sorento. The biggest drawback of the UVO system is that it can only display one section at a time (climate, audio, navigation). Even my Mustang can split the screen to show multiple sections at once. But the UVO navigation is much better, response to voice commands is at least usable and you don't have to go through multiple screens to do something simple like turn on the seat heaters (it has real physical buttons and knobs for climate and audio). Overall I like the Mustang setup best for everyday use (even though I've given up on using voice commands) and the Sorento setup for trips where I'm using navigation (the Mustang nav isn't too bad but it's not as good). I can't compare to SYNC 3 because I haven't tried it but I've heard good things about it and understand it's a huge improvement over MFT. Chrysler's Uconnect still tops most lists as the best domestic system but SYNC 3 has made significant gains in that area. I would not even consider buying another MFT equipped vehicle but I could be persuaded to look at SYNC 3.

As has been said, cold air intakes really don't add anything. Certainly not mileage increases... the engine computer is constantly monitoring air flow and adjusting mixture so even if you believe that it would increase air flow, it still wouldn't increase mpg (without a tune). Besides, even if it did increase mileage slightly, how long would it take before one could see any savings after spending $250 to buy it? And if it did produce an extra mile per gallon, don't you think Ford would be all over it as a means of lowering their CAFE numbers? Once engines stopped using carburetors and went to sophisticated computer controlled injection, I stopped even considering CAI for daily drivers. I still buy cleanable, reusable filters for the convenience of not having to replace them but never an oiled type like K&N. Buy a CAI kit for the looks and the sound but don't fool yourself into thinking that it will improve mileage or even increase horsepower in any noticeable way. Any HP gain would be at WOT and maybe enough to be measurable but not something you'd notice with the seat-of-the-pants dyno.

My experience has been that the system ignores the track field in the MP3 tags. I expect the OP is finding the same thing because it would seem logical that the track number would be the controlling information yet it's not working for him. Creating playlists is a fairly simple process that can be mostly automated using freely available software. I use Playlist Creator 3.6.2 which allows drag-and-drop creation of playlists as well as creating playlists from folders.

Your best bet is to create playlist files on the USB and select them in MFT - it will then play the tracks in the order they appear in the playlist.

Sorry, I don't. I don't have the Edge anymore to look at and I couldn't find where I posted a slot number a couple of years ago. I know I did find an empty slot that I used to hook up my DBL lights because I wasn't happy with the instructions that recommended using an existing fuse... I just don't remember which slot. If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, you can pick up a digital multimeter for about $5. Or a test light will cost about the same at most auto parts stores. Then it's a simple matter of going through the empty slots with the ignition on to find which have power then turn off the ignition and check the slots you found to see if they turned off as well.

There are a few fuses in the under-hood fuse box that are ignition controlled. There are also a couple of empty fuse slots there that are ignition controlled. If you have a test light or multimeter it will only take a few minutes to determine which ones you can use. You can get "Tap-A-Fuse" pigtails from your local auto parts store that will allow you to piggyback a new circuit with a separate fuse onto an existing fuse in the box.

Finally! A question for which I am eminently qualified (I'm a moderator at ls1tech.com). Yeah, yeah, I know... this is a Ford forum. The terms LS engine and LSx engine refer to GM option codes for a series of small block V8 engines. The term LSX (all caps) refers to a specific model LS high performance engine that was never installed in vehicles from the factory but is available as a crate engine. It can handle up to 2,500 horsepower. The first two LS engines were the LS1 and LS6 introduced in 1997 for the Corvette and then in 1998 for the F-Bodies (Camaro and Trans Am). They replaced the previous LT series engines and had aluminum blocks that were designed to be as strong as the LT iron blocks. They were the first GM engines to introduce a coil-on-plug design to replace the older distributor and plug wires arrangement. Yet they continued to use a push rod design while most other companies (including Ford) had moved to overhead cam designs. In spite of that "older" technology, the LS1 F-Bodies produced 325 horsepower, completely overwhelming the 260 horsepower of the 4.6L modular engines in the Mustangs of the time. This is what is believed to have started the horsepower wars in earnest - to all of our benefit. Since the late '90s there have been about 30 engine models in the LS series although not all of them got an "LS" designation (some examples were the LM6, L77 and L98). In fact, the latest LS engines have revived the LT1 (naturally aspirated) and LT4 (supercharged) designations.

The trim lights in the bumper are nowhere near bright enough to provide any useful function as DRLs. However, making them function similarly to real DRLs is quite simple. All you need to do is cut the power wire (yellow/blue) and patch it to an ignition controlled source. There are a couple of ignition switched fuses in the under-hood fuse box that can be tapped into. Make sure you fuse your new wiring separately - no more than 5 amps total for both sides. The aftermarket modules to convert turn signals into DRLs give you the most bang for the buck... webelectricproducts.com has a universal kit that works very well with either incandescent or LED bulbs for around $40. That being said, the replacement bumper trim lights from http://www.DAYTIMEBrightLites.com are by far the coolest way to add functional DRLs and auxiliary turn signals.

Wow, I've never seen a 2-wheeled Edge, certainly not a 2-stroke one. This is an odd place to ask those questions.

I have had a CB in every vehicle for the past 20 years because that is what Gold Wings are equipped with and I often need to communicate with our motorcycle team during events. That being said, cars used to have much better dash designs for mounting accessories but now not so much. I used to have a Firestik Venice antenna mounted in place of the factory AM/FM antenna. It's a "no ground plane" 5/8 wave antenna that is base loaded and styled to look much like a standard 36" factory antenna. I hooked up a splitter to allow it to be connected to the factory stereo as well as the CB... FM reception was comparable to the factory setup but AM reception was almost nonexistent. CB range was fairly short - about 1.5 miles - but that's typical of NGP antennas and it was sufficient for my needs. Unfortunately, that antenna has been discontinued and it can be difficult to find even on eBay these days. There is a model DS14-FG antenna that is similar but has a coil in the center of the mast (sort of like those old cellular antennas). I gave up on using a full size radio because of mounting difficulty and ended up going with one of those all-in-one handheld models. The Cobra 75WXST and the Midland 75-822 require no special mounting because everything is built in to the handset. The Cobra is designed to be hard-wired into the electrical system (12V power and ground) whereas the Midland plugs into a normal power outlet (cigarette lighter style). Both connect to an external antenna but the Midland can also use its own mini antenna attached to the handset. So, these days I connect the Midland to a good center-load magnetic mount antenna when I need it and remove it when I'm done. One other option you can try is what I do with my full size HAM radio... get one of those beanbag mounts for a Garmin GPS and attach the plastic button to the radio's mounting bracket using a machine screw. Then you lock the radio onto the beanbag mount and put the assembly up on the dash with the beanbag mount keeping it from sliding around. Put a power (cigarette lighter) plug on the power wires and connect to a magnetic mount antenna to have a very functional setup without requiring a permanent mount. Now when I have an event, I have the HAM radio on a beanbag mount on the dash, the CB hanging from a microphone hanger on the console and two mag mount antennas on the roof.

Webelectricproducts.com has a universal DRL module item number DRL-1 that will do most of what you want for only $39. It doesn't have an on/off switch but you could easily add your own to the module's yellow ignition switched power wire. I have used a number of their products in several vehicles and have found that they are well designed and solidly made. You'd be on your own for connecting the LED trim lights. Frankly I wouldn't recommend it for several reasons... the LEDs are nowhere near bright enough to be effective DRLs, they would end up flashing (white) with your turn signals (because they only have one power feed) and you'd have to add diodes to the wiring just to prevent current back-feed into the parking light circuit. If you really want to use the trim lights as DRLs, you'd be better off buying the kit from http://www.daytimebrightlites.com. It will give you much brighter white lights that flash amber with the turn signals.

Each bulb 80W nominal total for 16 x 5W CREE LEDs, actual power 16W producing 1100 lumens according to the eBay listing. I'm curious how they'll stack up against the OEM halogen 1350 lumens when installed.

In the US you'll find that bulb under the trade number 7440. It would be 7440NA (natural amber) for the original incandescent bulb but the stealth and LED bulbs drop the 'NA' and just go with the bulb type number. Bear in mind that chrome bulbs are generally MUCH dimmer than the originals. An alternative might be LEDs but then you have to add resistors to prevent hyper-flashing.

What you're describing could not be attributed to increased octane. Higher octane fuel is not "better" fuel (despite the oil companies calling it "premium") - it's just more resistant to detonation and engine knock. However, there is one factor that could explain the difference... many stations (especially in the north) sell "premium" fuel that is not only higher octane but also contains less ethanol. This can be the case even if the pump has a sign that says the fuel "may contain up to 10% ethanol" (the key words being "up to"). Ethanol has about 33% less energy content than gasoline so pure gasoline will always give a performance boost over E10 or E15 blends. That boost is usually enough to be felt by the "butt dyno" and will also contribute to better mileage and a smoother idle. Whether it's worth the higher cost is a personal choice... especially if you can't be sure whether it's a blend or not.

If those are the ones being sold by vanterec2015, I will be very curious to find out how they work for you. That is a unique design with what appears to be dual reflectors in the center to provide 360 degree beam spread. I would be a little concerned about the brightness as I see the same "100W" bulb from the same vendor listed in two different auctions - one claiming 1800 lumens and the other only 1200 lumens but I suppose they could be two different generations of the product. Still, I've never seen an LED bulb in that power range that doesn't have an external driver box (similar to a ballast for HID lamps). Let us know how they work out.

Man, you need to check your specs a little better. That 100W figure is simply the theoretical maximum output of the LED chips added together. It has little relation to the actual output or current draw at 12V. If it did, you would be drawing too much power for your stock wiring to handle safely. The actual wattage is more like 15W (that's actually specified on one of those "100W bulb" pages). Besides, the wattage is only approximately related to light output. One of those 100W LED bulbs shows 1200 lumens output while another shows 900 lumens - both of which are less than the 1350 lumens produced by the original halogen bulb.

I have no particular interest in iJDMTOY other than I have used their products and been very satisfied with them. I have also used products from V-LEDs and Diode Dynamics and been equally impressed with the quality. All three are American companies and although I can't confirm country of origin for all of their products, the ones I have used have all been made in the USA. I have done literally dozens of LED conversions on a wide variety of vehicles and have always found that paying a little more will invariably get you better quality product. A significant number of the vehicles I have worked on were brought to me because the owner had tried using cheap bulbs (usually from eBay) and been unsatisfied with the results. I am not criticizing things made in China specifically... I'm criticizing Chinese "knock-offs". Many products are manufactured in China to exacting specifications of their American buyers and are quality products. For example, I would have no qualms about buying a Sylvania or Philips bulb even if it was manufactured in China because I would be reasonably certain that it was manufactured to meet their expectations of quality. That doesn't apply to the no-name cheap Chinese products frequently sold on the web. Designing and building LED replacement bulbs is a complicated process that involves trying to get maximum brightness while still maintaining reliability through proper current and heat management and making it all fit into factory lamp housings. Cheaper bulbs tend to use less expensive components and overdrive the chips to get additional brightness at the expense of reliability and longevity. I have seen LED turn signal bulbs that fail in as little as 30 days when they should outlast the vehicle. On the other hand, I have iJDMTOY 3157 amber LED bulbs in the front of my Mustang that not only run all the time as DRLs but also withstand 10-hour days strobing when I use the car for safety support of charity bicycle events. They've been working like that without a problem for four years now. You may be lucky and get Chinese bulbs that last but I find it's more economical in the long run to go with quality and only have to do the job once.

Another moral to the story... don't buy the cheap Chinese bulbs on eBay. iJDMTOY sells 50W H15 Cree LED bulbs both on their own site and on eBay for $46 per pair. Unfortunately, H15 is not a popular bulb type so your options are somewhat limited. Neither V-LEDs nor Diode Dynamics (generally considered the two best) carry H15 LED bulbs.