macbwt

Yes ask your mechanic what brand aftermarket actuator he installed if he said DORMAN there's you problem. Maybe if he used OEM motorcraft then you have at least a chance to get the new replacement part free.

No clue which was why I asked the questions. Thus you provided the answers. Now start showing video demonstrations of actual use. with stats and numbers to compare the stopping distances against the other aftermarket brands. What people want to know is what is the cost per foot for the increased stopping capabilities. Provide the videos, testing and statistics. Start tossing out the prices, which have not been mentioned yet. Calling to ask most people look at that as a scam.

The real deal would be if any of you were able to monitor your transmission fluid temps during towing. This would be either scary news or good news. I suspect it will be worrisome news.

Might be longer I am aiming for at least 500,000 on this 3.5 this time. Last one went to nearly 300,000. Might end up getting the wife a 2.5 refresh with the 10sp

Still looking for a 2.0 or 2.7 with 200,000 miles on the ODO

I would love to see a set of these brakes used in the North with the salt on the roads in the winters. I bet this company did not even test them for this situation. I also bet the rotors are made in china, not forged and were drilled after the fact which ultimately will cause serious stress fractures from heat. Waiting for the proof of sourcing and manufacturing. Need documented facts not words.

NASCAR track rules: Brakes Front and rear disc brakes mandatory. Any caliper permitted. Only cast steel rotors permitted. Rotors must maintain a minimum of ¾” thickness and cannot be drilled or slotted completely through. No carbon fiber, fiberglass or titanium brake parts allowed.

Can I join you? LOL

Of course if they were aiming for performance the calipers would be designed to be on the rear of the rotor up front and the front of the rotors in the rear. High end balancing and weight distribution. Plus I bet that red car does not have drilled or slotted rotors. Might be a danger and most likely not allow on tracks. Hummmmm

Peak meets Ford Spec. If it did not then PEAK lied. Besides the engine has almost 200K miles on it and I have used various universal fluids in the past with it. Pump is still spinning so I am going with the answer of yes it works just as well as the Motorcraft. I will add I think the last time MC coolant was used in this engine was over 100K miles ago.

Just kidding you. You sure the pads were not installed backwards/flipped with the metal against the rotors.

Yep smells bad really bad.

chefduaneI highly recommend Goodyear Viva 2's for your Ford Edge. LOL

In your case I recommend running them down past the wear bars. With the wear bars touching the road you will have extra rubber on the road and better traction. LOL

Normal cat temps at 77 mph hour for me are about 1450 to 1550 on my 3.5 duratec if that helps. Keep in mind the material starts to melt at 2000 degrees F

I found the same with my testing on AMSOIL the viscosity changed among other issues. I however change my oil in both my Edges based on hours not miles. Far more accurate. I have through many lab tests narrowed down the city vs highway thing also and am dropping my wifes Edge down to 150 hours with testing at 100 hrs to determine if it can go to 150 hr. My Edge however does pretty decent at 200hrs. So for me 200hrs is the oil change point.

I have almost 200k miles on the original intake gasket. You do not really need to change it but the price for the gaskets is pretty cheap so why not change them since you are in there. By the way I am doing a Facebook live spark plug change on a 2011 Ford Edge on MACTFORDEDGE on Facebook. This Saturday 29 April 2017 in the AM.

I was going to recommend the wet tongue test.

I hear bango music in the background. Darn power steering lines. Pricey little bugger too.

That's not abnormal parts desk guy told me the upper and lower O2 sensors on the 3.5 duratec are interchangeable and I argued. Then he got a tech that was there that agreed with him. LOL They are not interchangeable one is three wire and one is four wire. Hummm

I think I will stick with my brakes at 100K miles on the set currently and hardly worn. I bet for much less money than these brakes and durability very questionable. Once the salt gets into those slots and holes it is all over with. The rotors will be trashed the first winter. Throwing money down the toilet.

LOL no problem glad to help.

If it is FWD jack it up and spin the wheels. Without hearing it and with new brakes (breaks for AKirby AkA Old man) I would not be able to help much on this one.

I will stick with the 3.5 until I start seeing 2.0 and 2.7 EB with 300,000 miles on them. The 3.5's I own have logged over 560,000 miles and not one water pump failure. Key: frequent coolant changes and oil changes using synthetic oil with good filters.

Are your low frequency noise dampers still attached to the rear brakes?